Brand new to modelling!!! any advice welcome...

[VPucc]

G'day all,

I'm brand new to the hobby and have just brought my first model (1:72 C130 Hercules). I've been reviewing youtube posts and other intent sources for the kit and tools I'll need. If anyone has any advice, I'm all ears.

Best regards from Oz.

[UKscalemodeller]

Welcome aboard VPucc.

There is a wealth of knowledge here on ISM, but I'm not the best to be dispensing it. I'll leave that to the pros.

[VPucc]

Cheers UKscalemodeller.

[Lee]

Welcome to ISM VPucc

That sure is a small model you've picked for your return....lol

The basic tools you will need are: Scalpel/hobby knife, sprue cutters, sanders, filler/putty (deluxe materials perfect putty), glue (Mr Hobby Cement S is the best in the UK), paints relevant to your build (Vallejo Model Air if spraying - Any others if hand painting), a gloss varnish and a matt varnish and the most important thing PATIENCE....!!!

That should pretty much do it. You will find, like most of us, that you'll accrue a ton of different tools and paint once you become hooked. Remember though, the most important thing about modelling is to HAVE FUN

[Coen]

Welcome to the hobby dude, and welcome to the forum.
You hit pay dirt coming here as a new modeller especially if you plan on modelling a lot of aircraft.
Lee and Paul along with a whole host of members are fantastic aircraft... crafters.

Feel free to post any specific questions, I'm sure any of us will try to help you along.

[HobbyModeller]

Welcome Just enjoy yourself with your first models as its all about fun, you'll experience as you go

[Bagpiper]

Welcome mate. I think Lee hit the nail on the head with the basics you need. Don't feel you need anything more at this stage. My Dad was an amazing craftsman with some glue, wood, a saw and a wood plane. Learn how to use what you have and don't feel intimidated by all the gear you will hear us all talking about/wanting We all NEED lots and lots and lots of toys/tools/gear

Good luck and great to have you with us. Make sure to ask questions at any time - we are here to help.

Cheers
Jim

[VPucc]

Thanks to all. I work away from home and will only be able to access the kit when I come home (20 days away 10 days home), However I can access the web and this site when Im at camp, so I will spam you with questions and advice
THANKS AGAIN TO ALL!!!

[modellingmadness]

Welcome Just enjoy yourself with your first models as its all about fun, you'll experience as you go

Seconded!

[BrummieModeller]

Welcome to ISM mate

From the above posts all tools and stuff like that have been covered pretty much, only advice id give you as its your first kit build is.......

Take your time!!! And enjoy it!!!

[VPucc]

Thanks Dan.

[schweinhund227]

Work slow and dry fit the parts before assembly, clean up the Mould parting lines,

Follow the instructions. And remember to have fun!

Don't rush !

Did I say! Have fun!
Let assemblies dry before proceeding to the next step.

But like they have said! Gather the minimum tools that will enable you to build this kit!

Use the proper glue! very important!

Start a tread and ask questions, we will be here for ya!

[keith]

And don't drink and model

[Bagpiper]

And don't drink and model

wrong wrong wrong wrong just wrong.


Cheers

Jim

[schweinhund227]

My thoughts exactly but I didn't post it! LOL

[VPucc]

Thanks, schweinhund227

Can anyone tell me the difference between "cement" and normal "glue" I understand there may be a viscosity differential, however; are they used for different applications??

I visited a hobby shop yesterday and asked the bloke behind the counter who talked in circles..I gathered that he didn't really know!!

[Bagpiper]

Well I would say that when your dealing with plastic, the cement melts the plastic and dries very quickly - a few minutes. Glue, such as CA, white glue, elmers, wood glue and so on sticks the pieces together. CA glue would be used to glue photo etch (PE). CA glue dries quick(ish), especially if you use a kicker to set the glue. If you don't use a kicker CA glue can let things slide and you end up with the parts glued in the wrong place. But for PE you cannot use cement. Clear parts on the other hand, you could use CA glue or krystal Clear or other window making type glue. I think I've got most of this right. lol

Cheers
Jim

[VPucc]

Thanks Jim, greatly appreciated.

On another note, regarding paint, I posted a question in the paint section regarding the different Tamiya paint codes. Are you able to shed any light on the codes;
AS, MS, PS, TS & Enamel X/XF????

[Bagpiper]

Thanks Jim, greatly appreciated.

On another note, regarding paint, I posted a question in the paint section regarding the different Tamiya paint codes. Are you able to shed any light on the codes;
AS, MS, PS, TS & Enamel X/XF????

Um! I answered that in your other post mate with the same question Good idea to only post the same question once please as your going to get people answering both and I don't know about you but I would get confused.

Cheers
Jim

[Paul]

Thanks Jim, greatly appreciated.

On another note, regarding paint, I posted a question in the paint section regarding the different Tamiya paint codes. Are you able to shed any light on the codes;
AS, MS, PS, TS & Enamel X/XF????

I've answered it for you buddy

[schweinhund227]

Hey... I would not use C.A. on Clear parts... my take on life !!!

The Fuming (curing) of C.A. emits corrosive fumes.. that Sticks to Clear parts like... the pest ! You can assemble a whole model with C.A. ( Cyano-acrylate glue) no problem! just keep it away from Clear plastic.... you risk to see WHITE residue fogging your canopies and what-not ! sometimes the white fog can even stick to styrene if the fuming is from a large amount of C.A. ... Kicker is nice to have but is very toxic... (and it is) don't inhale and don't leave on your skin.... it accumulate in the body!!

Cement like Tamiya Thin Cement is used to Fuse or bound styrene together... We love it for its Capillary action... meaning it flows everywhere... in-between parts and gives a good bound !

Glue like Testor "RED tube" of death... Stay away from that "OLD way" of building models... It melt plastic and becomes like a Varnish_y after many years That glue is only good to make ICICLES on Dioramas ! They always try to sell you that Crap! to get rid of it...

On the other hand.... Testor "liquid cement" with a "light" acetone smell to it... is equal to Tamiya thin cement.... Their Thicker stuff I could not care for... once you go with Tamiya Thin Cement... you won't go back..!!! same goes with Testor liquid cement !

P.E. ! I use C.A. for that like Jim !!! or you can use a varnish like many Europeans are doing... it gives you time
to move the pieces where they will finally rest and it blends the parts with the model giving the illusion it is either welded or part of the model... I myself... never used the varnish way! but seen some do it constantly and with great results... what Varnish ?? unknown to me but i liked the idea to keep moving the parts till I was happy with the position !!! with C.A. you have a matter of seconds... so ... its all in the learning ...

There are loads of glue out there...... some are even specifically designed for a specific plastic... LIKE ABS model plastic... like Plastruct which for a long time... only their own glue could bound it !!!
some others are Very strong glues... that will glue or Weld styrene... use sparingly ! Tenax 7R or Pro-Weld
Use only if other cements have failed !!! very very strong stuff... but some swear by it... but I am not in a rush when I build... so.. I have used them... but no long do !

I would buy one or 2 glues... for starters... a Medium consistency C.A. and Tamiya Thin cement or Testor Liquid cement and learn the basics from those 2 types of glues... one C.A. (rapid) on Styrene and P.E. the other Styrene liquid cement which is slower but gives a great bound to styrene alone...!

All the best to ya and keep asking questions !

Norm.

[Bagpiper]

The master has spoken

Great information Norm

Jim

[schweinhund227]

The master has spoken

Great information Norm

Jim

Plz Jim... don't

I ain't no Master.....
I am Old enough though ! LOL

[Bagpiper]

We can just pretend then

and yeah!!! I know the feeling - I should know what I'm doing with a lot of things by now. Ho Hum..

Cheers

Jim

[VPucc]

schweinhund227

Thanks, for that mate.

That's a keeper!!

[chief5437]

Welcome to ISM! Hope you enjoy it as much as we do.

[PerezTurner]

If you are Brand new to modelling then what type of help and assistance you are expecting from us? Clear your vision please.

[Gav0909]

Its been mentioned but not expanded on much, so I will expand.

When you cut the parts from the sprue, cut slightly along the sprue part from where the sprue attaches to the part (known as the sprue gate). So you will end up with a part that has a few bits of sprue sticking off it. Then take your hobby knife, or scalpel and carefully cut away the sprue gate, then use a sanding stick (a fine nail file is fine, they are cheap!) or some fine sandpaper to smooth off any burrs. Some parts you will notice a slight raised line where the two halves of the mould have left a small ridge of plastic, called a mould line. Use your knife in a scraping motion along the line, not cutting, to remove these and sand smooth.

This clean up process on your parts can get tedious and care needs to be taken on small delicate parts, but you will notice a huge difference in your final model. Especially if you use a wash to add shading, it can collect on rough parts, mouldlines etc which then highlights them to the eye once the model is painted.

Before you paint, I would recommend to prime the model. This can be done with just black, white or grey paint, but you can get specific primers. Vallejo do a range of polyurethane primers which are brushable or fine to use through an airbrush. Give the model a coat of that first and that gives the main colours a better base to stick too. You will get a richer, smoother colour if you prime your model first.

Hope that helps!