1:48 Mirage Schusta/Schlasta 27b Halberstadt CL.II Mid Prod w/ Lozenge Decals

[JPett]

Welcome to my build

I am pretty much a hack when it comes to plastic kits so please bare with me. My only interest here is fun. For this build I would like to develop my skills or "kills" in decals, stencils and airbrushing with acrylic paints. The last being a nemesis of mine for the last few years. I will be using stencils to do the markings instead of the supplied decals as the outside of this kit is pretty much completely covered by the extensive decal set included.

Please feel free to comment, offer advice or ask questions.


The Kit

1:48 Mirage Schusta/Schlasta 27b Halberstadt CL.II Mid Prod w/ Lozenge Decals

The quality of the plastic looks to be very good to excellent with fine detail well represented. There is a great kit review here

http://www.aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php? ... nt&id=6064


My only complaint so far would have to be the instructions. While the content and photos are excellent the book is tiny and print so small I had to scan it and use a computer to reference it. It was that or purchase a stronger set of optivisors. I will post my scanned sheets as I go along to help anyone else who might want to consider this kit. There was also an interesting discoloration on the photo etch. The parts look to be fine however.

In keeping with my decal theme I purchased some of Uschi's wood grain decals. I also grabbed a set of Eduard's wire stretchers and control horns.

I will try to post each step, how my work was accomplished, my thoughts and any questions pertaining to the following steps. I do like to write but will also try to post pictures for those non readers

Enough said

[JPett]

Welcome to my build

After opening the bag of sprues a closer inspection found H37 broken and a few other parts had snapped free with minor damage. H37 supports the gunners position and will need to be remade. On the bright side my cylinder heads did not have the sink holes shown in the review. Washing the parts also took a little more effort then usual to remove the release agent.

I started with the engine as per the instructions and immediately found that all the parts in this kit will need to all be removed using my JLC Micro Saw. The plastic is soft but fragile and breaks very easily. The parts are secured at multiple points with some pretty burly lugs only making removal move difficult. The plastic is slow to react to Tamiya thin cement; but once cured the bond is solid. The CA to metal bond is superb.

Moving right along the parts do not have any alignment pins. I have cut these off many a time but am finding having none a new experience. So far I have assembled the engine block, the cylinder heads and fuel cell. The block has been pinned with brass rod to aide in the alignment of the cylinders and painting. I added the plug wire guide pipe on the starboard side to strengthen the completed piston cylinder assemble so it can be removed for painting. Debating on the wires. The crank or prop mount (F10) has been replaced by brass wire. I will cut it to length later.

I also removed the fuselage halves, and started the cockpit. I plan to go back and forth between the engine and cockpit The fuel cell was no easy task to assemble. Had I to do this over I would add some styrene strips to make alignment easier. Did I ever tell you the story of the modeler who did one side of a gas tank. He had a terrible time putting it together and much clean up was needed. With loving care he made it right to find he had just completed the wrong side.

Build notes: It is important that F7 be the last cylinder as shown. F20 will connect to F7 and fit provided F3 and F15 are properly positioned. Do not trim the flash on parts H26 and H27

Thoughts: Well the gas cell is again going to be a project to bring up to something that will support a metallic finish.
As I stated I am trying to learn to use acrylics. You can see I am still in the orange peel stage. I plan to use Vallejo Metallic Air, Tamiya, Model Master and Vallejo Primer, with a Liquitex Acrylic Medium concoction that seems to work better then anything else I have tried. Suggestions welcome . These parts were sprayed with straight primer and I am not thrilled although they are not bad I would like a slightly smoother coat. It is just the investigation coat and I can see there is quit a bit more to address so I will get another chance with the next coat. Perhaps I will thin the primer with a gloss medium. Like I said.
Suggestions welcome

[JPett]

Welcome to my Build

Well; I did not like the Vallejo Primer on the cylinders so I broke out the acetone and stripped them down. I re-primed them with Tamiya flat black after having success with this on the fuselage halves. I think Tamiya flats will be my primers from now on. I seem to get a much smoother coat. My mix right now for Tamiya is about 50/50 with a mix of 50% matt medium , 25% IPA, 25% distilled water then about 2 to 3% flow enhancer. Comments welcome.

I used the Vallejo Air Aluminum with Air bronze wash on the block. For the cylinder heads I used Tamiya flat black with a black wash and a white dry brush using Windsor and Newton water based oil paint. Overall it is starting to look like a fair representation.

I enjoy photography and find doing images like this great for inspecting my work. I have already made some changes after viewing these. Most notably the carburetors are now darker and the block is a little lighter.

Build Notes: I had issues with part F20. I am not sure but my cylinders might not be perfectly aligned. The part was short so I made a new one. F14 should be fit and reduced as per the pics. I missed this one

Conclusion: Needless to say I am never truly happy with my work but this only drives me forward

[Timmie]

Nice start,

I'll be following your build.

I'm curious how the lozenge decals will work for you.

Grtz Arjan

[Avgas]

That donk looks ace. Great work so far.