Char B1 Bis

[EasyEight96]

Hi guys here is what I've been up to lately I am building this kit as an entry for the ugliest looking tank competition held by our local hobby group. So far the kit builds like a dream with some minor gaps to be filled. I love building tracks for once as it is just a snap and done





I'll be building it as the Free French ver so it's gonna be an olive drab looking tank. I'll be trying to apply the colour modulation technique
but I dont get it as everytime I paint it with the base colour it will end up looking like brand new out of the factory look so I'm seeking advice from
afv modellers for help hopefully I'm able to achieve that on this tank as olive drab as far I know is the second easier to be modulate after german grey

[Coen]

I'm sorry to say buddy... But I think that you're gonna lose.
That's an awesome looking tank. I love the look of a Char. Not ugly at all..
Haha.

[EasyEight96]

I'm sorry to say buddy... But I think that you're gonna lose.
That's an awesome looking tank. I love the look of a Char. Not ugly at all..
Haha.

Lol.... Ok I'll just try my luck then which tank do you see as ugly Coen?

[Coen]

There's no such thing

haha.
All tanks are beautiful things.

[EasyEight96]

There's no such thing

haha.
All tanks are beautiful things.

I see btw what do you think of my plans for the upcoming paint job I'm feeling not brave to do colour modulation

[Nige1940]

Great Job your doing on it , The Char B is a very interesting looking tank .
Those tracks are great aren't they ? What's the problem You are having with CM ? I'll see if I can help you with the technique .

[EasyEight96]

Great Job your doing on it , The Char B is a very interesting looking tank .
Those tracks are great aren't they ? What's the problem You are having with CM ? I'll see if I can help you with the technique .

Ya I'm having trouble with CM and I dont know which part to be painted dark or light

[Nige1940]

Great Job your doing on it , The Char B is a very interesting looking tank .
Those tracks are great aren't they ? What's the problem You are having with CM ? I'll see if I can help you with the technique .

Ya I'm having trouble with CM and I dont know which part to be painted dark or light

Right I got you , Well there's no "hard N fast" rules to how it should look in the end but you can follow some basic guidelines to help the technique .Firstly again its a case of Practise makes perfect as with most things modelling but I'll try to explain it the way I way shown.
CM only represents natural or another light source hitting the surface of the vehicle .The end result of CM is to falsely enhance the model so You reveal more detail than what is actually present . This is often used in its most basic from in the Dry Brush technique and this is very similar, as we are now enhancing volume and detail with an airbrush instead of a dry paint brush but we will still be using progressively lighter paint tones .
Remember it requires a GLOSS black base coat this will help further enhance the shadows .
Ideally use a Gloss varnish in with the paint and I find acrylics are best for this as I like to work quickly and not have to wait for hours for the initial layers to dry . Vallejo are really good and thin well but Tamiya are great especially thinned with Cellulose thinner. The Gloss will keep the effect very smooth and achieve gradual subtle tonal transitions and they will look even more blended , also use the paint in as many layers as possible ( absolute minimum 3 main levels of tonal shade, Dark mid & light) to achieve proper gradual shifts between the tones, which are broken down into separate stages as you lighten each progressive paint mixture.
Choose a single source from which the light will originate. Keep it as simple s possible to start with and have the light coming from directly above the centre upper area of the vehicle the more angular the vehicle the easier it will be . The Char B' hull would be great for this .
Spray the darker recesses first , with the black shadow coat, in fact, if you use a primer such as grey for example you don't even have to cover the whole vehicle with is and this will also help you to keep track of what tones you are working on . Work from the darker areas to the lighter upper areas keeping the next lighter shade of paint slightly overlapping the previous shade The lower darker areas will receive less paint , keep your paint thin so you get a more translucent overlap . The more like a glaze the paint the better you will be able to control the process .
don't worry about servicing each panel separately, its best to keep the effect overall , the opposite to the technique you would use if pre-shading for example and highlighting each panel for example. The area you picked for the light source to originate say forward upper frontal area is where will receive even more highlights and stronger lighter tones . The next and final step is to paint all of the smaller details like the hatches vents grilles even heavier bolt detail with various lighter shades of the base colour in order to bring out these smaller details . The intended effect of this is to enhance them for the viewer. The contrast between the colours for these details and the base coat should be related and within reasonable limits
but don't be afraid to use much stronger tones and even different shades of the basic same colour group as the main body .
It will look quite stark at this stage , but don't panic this is a good thing because as you weather and stain the surface it will ensure the tones survive the processes and still be subtly visible . To help you learn where to highlight try getting a torch and shining it your light source over the model take some photos for reference , That's how I started to figure it out . If you have two plates which are angled say 45 degrees you would paint the back of the top one lighter and the top of the lower one lighter . keep it interesting to the eye .
There are some great video's on YT and also from Night vision featuring Adam Wilder who makes this technique quite easy to follow I'll have a quick look shortly and find some links for you . I hope I helped in some way to explain it for you ? just remember to keep your lighter shades at the top and darker below to start with

[Nige1940]

Here's a good explanation its on small scale models but the idea is the same .
http://rustandthecity.blogspot.co.uk/20 ... ation.html
This is a great video too on YT https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRUlAr2ehWM

[EasyEight96]

Great Job your doing on it , The Char B is a very interesting looking tank .
Those tracks are great aren't they ? What's the problem You are having with CM ? I'll see if I can help you with the technique .

Ya I'm having trouble with CM and I dont know which part to be painted dark or light

Right I got you , Well there's no "hard N fast" rules to how it should look in the end but you can follow some basic guidelines to help the technique .Firstly again its a case of Practise makes perfect as with most things modelling but I'll try to explain it the way I way shown.
CM only represents natural or another light source hitting the surface of the vehicle .The end result of CM is to falsely enhance the model so You reveal more detail than what is actually present . This is often used in its most basic from in the Dry Brush technique and this is very similar, as we are now enhancing volume and detail with an airbrush instead of a dry paint brush but we will still be using progressively lighter paint tones .
Remember it requires a GLOSS black base coat this will help further enhance the shadows .
Ideally use a Gloss varnish in with the paint and I find acrylics are best for this as I like to work quickly and not have to wait for hours for the initial layers to dry . Vallejo are really good and thin well but Tamiya are great especially thinned with Cellulose thinner. The Gloss will keep the effect very smooth and achieve gradual subtle tonal transitions and they will look even more blended , also use the paint in as many layers as possible ( absolute minimum 3 main levels of tonal shade, Dark mid & light) to achieve proper gradual shifts between the tones, which are broken down into separate stages as you lighten each progressive paint mixture.
Choose a single source from which the light will originate. Keep it as simple s possible to start with and have the light coming from directly above the centre upper area of the vehicle the more angular the vehicle the easier it will be . The Char B' hull would be great for this .
Spray the darker recesses first , with the black shadow coat, in fact, if you use a primer such as grey for example you don't even have to cover the whole vehicle with is and this will also help you to keep track of what tones you are working on . Work from the darker areas to the lighter upper areas keeping the next lighter shade of paint slightly overlapping the previous shade The lower darker areas will receive less paint , keep your paint thin so you get a more translucent overlap . The more like a glaze the paint the better you will be able to control the process .
don't worry about servicing each panel separately, its best to keep the effect overall , the opposite to the technique you would use if pre-shading for example and highlighting each panel for example. The area you picked for the light source to originate say forward upper frontal area is where will receive even more highlights and stronger lighter tones . The next and final step is to paint all of the smaller details like the hatches vents grilles even heavier bolt detail with various lighter shades of the base colour in order to bring out these smaller details . The intended effect of this is to enhance them for the viewer. The contrast between the colours for these details and the base coat should be related and within reasonable limits
but don't be afraid to use much stronger tones and even different shades of the basic same colour group as the main body .
It will look quite stark at this stage , but don't panic this is a good thing because as you weather and stain the surface it will ensure the tones survive the processes and still be subtly visible . To help you learn where to highlight try getting a torch and shining it your light source over the model take some photos for reference , That's how I started to figure it out . If you have two plates which are angled say 45 degrees you would paint the back of the top one lighter and the top of the lower one lighter . keep it interesting to the eye .
There are some great video's on YT and also from Night vision featuring Adam Wilder who makes this technique quite easy to follow I'll have a quick look shortly and find some links for you . I hope I helped in some way to explain it for you ? just remember to keep your lighter shades at the top and darker below to start with

Thank you so much for the info Nigel
So this morning I've painted the B1 and here is the results not sure it will show the results though









So next up well... I'm not sure what do think? should I got for the highlights now?

[Coen]

Looks fantastic Matthew!
Nicely done bud.
If you're still going with modulation I wouldn't think to advise ya, (I'm not a fan).
She looks great so far though.

[EasyEight96]

Looks fantastic Matthew!
Nicely done bud.
If you're still going with modulation I wouldn't think to advise ya, (I'm not a fan).
She looks great so far though.

Thanks bud if you say its nice then it should be ok. Posted it on a old forum and got criticized to bits haizz shouldn't even bother helping out local forums anymore

[Coen]

I'm sorry to hear that buddy. Truly.

[EasyEight96]

I'm sorry to hear that buddy. Truly.

It's ok it was my fault to try and show my work there again I've deleted that thread and leaving it forever. ISM is my only home now

[Nige1940]

Looks fantastic Matthew!
Nicely done bud.
If you're still going with modulation I wouldn't think to advise ya, (I'm not a fan).
She looks great so far though.

Thanks bud if you say its nice then it should be ok. Posted it on a old forum and got criticized to bits haizz shouldn't even bother helping out local forums anymore

I think people need to realise we all start have to start somewhere and not everyone can be graded as though they're a pro. I think a model should be judged on its own merit given what's in front of the person judging. Often harsh criticism can destroy the confidence in that person and thus hurt the hobby . I had the same thing when I was very young I was 10 years old one of my first models it was laughed at by a well accomplished modeller in 50's then . I didn't model again for 5 years because of that .
Constructive criticism is fine and only helps us to grow but I will only give it when its asked for and usually in a very positive way .
I think your Char B is excellent its nice and cleanly built and the paint job so far is great .
CM is a marmite kind of deal you either love it or hate it . It's not a "Realistic" technique but an "Aesthetic" one and it doesn't always work for every model some models will look better without it its all down to personal choice and taste .
You can of course highlight even more if you please EasyEight but once you weather it, if you choose to that is ? it'll great as is .
Nice smooth paint job you did there
Keep up the good work and don't let anyone get you down mate ! above all ENJOY IT !

[EasyEight96]

Looks fantastic Matthew!
Nicely done bud.
If you're still going with modulation I wouldn't think to advise ya, (I'm not a fan).
She looks great so far though.

Thanks bud if you say its nice then it should be ok. Posted it on a old forum and got criticized to bits haizz shouldn't even bother helping out local forums anymore

I think people need to realise we all start have to start somewhere and not everyone can be graded as though they're a pro. I think a model should be judged on its own merit given what's in front of the person judging. Often harsh criticism can destroy the confidence in that person and thus hurt the hobby . I had the same thing when I was very young I was 10 years old one of my first models it was laughed at by a well accomplished modeller in 50's then . I didn't model again for 5 years because of that .
Constructive criticism is fine and only helps us to grow but I will only give it when its asked for and usually in a very positive way .
I think your Char B is excellent its nice and cleanly built and the paint job so far is great .
CM is a marmite kind of deal you either love it or hate it . It's not a "Realistic" technique but an "Aesthetic" one and it doesn't always work for every model some models will look better without it its all down to personal choice and taste .
You can of course highlight even more if you please EasyEight but once you weather it, if you choose to that is ? it'll great as is .
Nice smooth paint job you did there
Keep up the good work and don't let anyone get you down mate ! above all ENJOY IT !

Thanks for the advice Nige you've given me I didn't add anymore highlights as I see it very beautiful to ruin it hahaha
So once I painted up the tools and some small parts up I clear coated it. It was then followed by decalling I manage to screw up one if the stars and had to be replaced with spares for a Hellcat. Once that was done I clear it again and give it a wash using mig dark wash. Leaving it to dry I then wipe off the excess and proceed to flat coat it.

The problem starts here once I gave it a flat coat I saw frosting all over the model even after trying to cover it coat after coat I only manage to recover some of the areas. So I then used the dark wash again but thinned it very thin and apply over the tank. The results were much better as most the frosting got covered and hidden away.Leaving it to dry again I continued the work on weathering as one of the members pointed out that it shouldn't be that wore out I then therefore kept it minimal and here are the end results of the testing of new things I really enjoyed it all the way although I was pulled down by pricks I was able to recover .



























I'm now thinking of making a simple base with some information about this tank serving in 1945 what do you think? I can't find how to make those information thing that I see glued on the base of the tank/plane any suggestions?

[Nige1940]

Well You did a fantastic job ! The weathering looks great, its nice and subtle but noticeable .
You recovered from the frosting issue really well ! I cant see any .
as for the base I think a simple base would look great such as just some grass and stones etc...
And the information plate would look nice too but unfortunately I cant really help on that one Easy .
As I don't usually do them I'm a bit lost as to how you would do it I can only think of maybe designing it on a computer programme and printing it off
onto some thick paper or card stock perhaps ? Awesome looking Char B

[EasyEight96]

Well You did a fantastic job ! The weathering looks great, its nice and subtle but noticeable .
You recovered from the frosting issue really well ! I cant see any .
as for the base I think a simple base would look great such as just some grass and stones etc...
And the information plate would look nice too but unfortunately I cant really help on that one Easy .
As I don't usually do them I'm a bit lost as to how you would do it I can only think of maybe designing it on a computer programme and printing it off
onto some thick paper or card stock perhaps ? Awesome looking Char B

Thank you Nige ya the plate thing looks like I have to print out like normal and hide it in the base

[Nige1940]

Yeah I think printing would be the way to go mate .

[Coen]

Very cool work bud!!
Love the rust.
I'm with the others... Go with the printing.

[TommyKillander]

Hey EasyEight,

That's a lovely looking B1, great job !!

Cheers

[EasyEight96]

Hey EasyEight,

That's a lovely looking B1, great job !!

Cheers

Thank you sir I'm in the stage of making a base for it so stay tuned

[EasyEight96]

Very cool work bud!!
Love the rust.
I'm with the others... Go with the printing.

Thank you Coen glad you like the rusting I was worried whether its too much

[wappynutter]

Looks fantastic Matthew, well done mate.... I do like the old French tanks..

[EasyEight96]

Looks fantastic Matthew, well done mate.... I do like the old French tanks..

Thank you Andy this is actually my first French vehicle in my collection too I'm looking for a ft-17