Dragon 1:35 OT-34/76 Mod.1943 (No.112 Factory)

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sun Jan 03, 2016 6:09 pm

First GB of the year, can't wait to start this one.
I'm going to build the OT-34/76 Mod.1943 (No.112 Factory) from Dragon.

Really nice kit by the looks of it, so lets begin with sprue mountain.

And the individual sprues

By the looks of the manual, I will end up with a LOT of spare parts....lol

A little history:

The T-34 tank is not only one of the most recognizable tanks of World War II, it is arguably the most produced tank in WWII, and is rivaled only by the American M4 Sherman series. Design and initial production was in Kharkov until the fall of 1941 when the factory was evacuated. Of the 35,595 T-34's built, 12,604 are credited to have been built at Factory 112. Out of all T-34's built, roughly 3,000 T-34/76 were built with the commander's cupola and 1,070 T-34/76 were converted to into OT-34/76.

How many of both types were crossed (OT-34/Commander's Cupola) is unknown in any source I could find. The OT-34/76 was fitted with an internal ATO-41 (later an ATO-42) flamethrower that had a 105L capacity where the hull MG would be (allowing the 76mm main gun to still be operable), and taking up the space of the radio (necessitating its relocation to the turret). This allowed for 10 shots and a range of up to 130 meters. It was very useful, but also very conspicuous and they drew a LOT of enemy fire. No one liked being on the receiving end of flamethrowers.

This T34 was build at Factory 112 one of the oldest shipbuilding factories in the Soviet Union, located in the Sormovsky City District of Nizhny Novgorod (the city was called Gor'ky between 1932 and 1990).

Markings:
The markings options are for only 1 vehicle, a winter wash-over-4BO-green vehicle from Tank Battalion “Dmitri Donskoi”, vaguely attributed to the Eastern Front in 1943. They are well printed and look thin.

So I hope to start this build soon
Good luck everyone and happy modelling!

Post by **MarkVerploeg** » Sun Jan 03, 2016 7:25 pm

Looks like a nice kit
and it has a flamethrower wich makes it extra cool
you don't want to be inside it when a AP shell hits that fuel tank though
it gets very hot , very fast
have fun with the build

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sun Jan 03, 2016 10:54 pm

MarkVerploeg wrote:Looks like a nice kit
and it has a flamethrower wich makes it extra cool
you don't want to be inside it when a AP shell hits that fuel tank though
it gets very hot , very fast
have fun with the build

I wouldn't want to be in side that steel can when that happen! Ready, steady, cook!
Going to be a fun build though, with a lot of spare parts by the look of it. Its a 2010 re - box of Dragons t34 with comander copula, but with some new moulded parts and a conversion to this type. The original T34 kit is going to be build in this GB as well if i recall.

Post by **Vinitine** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 2:42 am

Nice looking kit will be watching you on this to see how yours goes.

Looks a lot like mine

The sprues and what not that is i noticed a lot of the same ones.

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 5:44 am

Vinitine wrote:Nice looking kit will be watching you on this to see how yours goes.

Looks a lot like mine

The sprues and what not that is i noticed a lot of the same ones.

It is almost the same kit. Mine is a 2010 re-box of your kit , but with some conversion parts

I think it will be fun to build these ! Good luck with yours!

Post by **chief5437** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 7:55 pm

Nice choice Frans. There's a lot of plastic in there! Will you be doing a winter scheme? The one in the pics looks very cool! Some nice PE in there too, will you be buying any more to go with it? Good luck buddy, I know it'll turn out fantastic

Post by **Nige201980** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:07 pm

Wow fantastic plastic you've got there Frans best of luck with it buddy.

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:39 pm

chief5437 wrote:Nice choice Frans. There's a lot of plastic in there! Will you be doing a winter scheme? The one in the pics looks very cool! Some nice PE in there too, will you be buying any more to go with it? Good luck buddy, I know it'll turn out fantastic

Indeed, yes, yes and thank you. Lol

There's a lot of plastic in the box but a lot of it will go in the spate box by the looks of all the blue marked parts in the instructions. It has only one marking option and that will be in winter wash too. Thinking of using the hairspray technique for doing that. I do have one figure ordered in Australia for this build, just to show scale and it will be a somewhat "funny" scene. And it wil be in the snow as well.

Thanks mate!

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:43 pm

Nige201980 wrote:Wow fantastic plastic you've got there Frans best of luck with it buddy.

Thank you Nige! Hope to start this kit soon. Probably somewhere next week. I made myself a promise and that is to finish my "hunter " figure forst before starting anything else.

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sun Jan 10, 2016 5:13 pm

Time to get started with this kit
Here we go!

road wheels, idler, and sprocket.

This kit has dish road wheels with lightening holes in the rubber edges and 16 bolts that are accurate to replicate the real wheel detail very well.
So let's start with those.

All road wheel are attached to the sprue on 4 points... I hate that... lot of careful cutting and sanding required.

And there a lot of them...

All these parts need to be sanded to get rid of those 4 pins, and so its time to sand with POWERRRRR!

I put the metal tip of an old brush into the power drill, and with the wheel on it, it's a lot faster to get them sanded.
But do work on a low speed for you will end up with much smaller wheels, and I don't think they had "low-riders" back then..

All sanded and polished in record time.

The wheel caps are cut loos only half. his way it makes it easier for me to sand down at least one side.
And yes... I do need new sanders...

With the wheel caps on, the road wheels are looking great!

The Idler.

And done

The sprocket

Sprocket parts P20/P21 are called for, but parts L3/4 could also be used.
I'm using P20/P21 For those are better looking imo

All Done!

Suspension

Just some minor filling.. The big inject mark at the top will not been seen, so I didn't bother to fill that one up.

In place

I do love the details of those springs, no seem line to be found

These parts will be added to the back of the hull just above the sprocket.

Well, well, mister Dragon.... a mark at the visible side? tsk tsk...

Luckily a easy sand job...

Polished and in position.

This is part A6, the axle for the front idler, should be left loose until the tracks are put on to allow for better fitting to avoid the need for the dreaded "half track" piece (a gap that is half the size of one track piece). I just hold it down with some tack.

Ready to receive the sprocket

The suspension bars/axles. The all have a big annoying seem line running over the entire length of the part...

I like to scribe down the biggest part with my scalpel

And sand down the rest

All done!

And all wheels dry fitted to the hull.

Looking great, don't it?

And that rounds up this part!

Thanks for dropping by, and happy modelling!

Post by **rodrant** » Sun Jan 10, 2016 5:48 pm

Interesting Build and one to follow Frans .

Never done any Dragon kit besides figures ...must try one one of this days , Tamiya addicted you know ...

Good luck with your build buddy !

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sun Jan 10, 2016 6:31 pm

rodrant wrote:Interesting Build and one to follow Frans .

Never done any Dragon kit besides figures ...must try one one of this days , Tamiya addicted you know ...

Good luck with your build buddy !

Thank you António

Dragon makes great kits, but complicated.
For instance; As Tamiya would do a Road wheel in 2 parts, Dragon would have 5.
But if you follow the instructions and test fit first before gluing it, you would be ok. It can happen that you glue a part the wrong way like me most of the time building Dragon....
But as a Tamiya addict you would properly enter the "I love Tamiya"GB !
I'm entering that one too with ehmm.... I think the tamiya somua s35

Post by **Jan01** » Sun Jan 10, 2016 6:48 pm

Looking good so far. Nice job on the wheels. Still got mine to do.

Post by **MarkVerploeg** » Sun Jan 10, 2016 7:48 pm

Nice work so far Frans
too bad i can't borrow that trick with the wheels on my T-34
but i have seperate tyres so that makes painting easier
looking forward to some more
cheers Mark

Post by **NAMBiohazard** » Sun Jan 10, 2016 7:50 pm

Looking good

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Mon Jan 11, 2016 7:40 pm

Thank you guys, Appreciate it!

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sat Jan 16, 2016 7:20 pm

Adding the back transmission cover and details to the lower hull.

When the cover was in place, I ended up with a gap at 4both sides.

I filled those up with some liquid putty and left it to dry

The instructions give you two options, machine gun or flame thrower.
I choose the flame thrower.

Here's a pic of the machine gun option, I could not found a flame thrower pic.

I'm not to sure about the piece of PE on top of it, but I did read a factory 112 had this piece, so it should be correct.
If it is not correct, I can take it of later.

The engine cover will be made out of PE and will be in closed version for there is no engine included with this kit.
Besides, this tank will go in a winter diorama, so it would probably a good idea to keep it shut to keep the warmth inside the tank.

This part needs to be fit in this space. How-ever, I do need to get rid of those rivets to let the part fit flat. Otherwise it will be floating.

Part in place and two panels added. As I said before, they will be in closed version.

Adding mesh

With the mesh added, It looks way better than the molded version.

The air outlets are displayed wrong in the instructions. Part H3 should be H4 and visa versa.

Headlight added

The horn is placed the wrong way, I will correct that soon.

Drivers hath

I will add it in closed version, this tank is going to be all buttoned up.

Spare track added

Exhausts

The exhausts are closed, so I need to drill them open.

That's better...

I wasn't happy with the weld lines in the front plate.
Way to thin and to regularly.
So I took a old scalpel, heat it up and made my own weld lines.
No need for them to be perfect, the real weld lines were sloppy too.

Tie downs added.
The belts needed to be bend round according to the instructions, but as they are not holding anything in place, it looked more realistic to me if the were just hanging loose.

The stowage box on the right rear fender needs to be placed on top of that bolded down plate.
That is not going to fit properly, so that plate needs to go partly.

That's better!

They forgot to tell in the instructions to place part C16 on top of the hull, but they really need to be added, or you will end up with two small holes.

The rear mud guards are cut off to make place for the PE parts.

The hooks for the tow cable are a nice detail

And this is my progress so far.

This will end my 2nd update, and I hope I will see you next time!
Take care and happy modelling!

Post by **MarkVerploeg** » Sat Jan 16, 2016 8:38 pm

Nice progres so far Frans
i like it
keep up the good work

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sat Jan 16, 2016 11:16 pm

MarkVerploeg wrote:Nice progres so far Frans
i like it
keep up the good work

Thank you Mark.
Enjoying it so far.
Got a few scenarios in my head for it all ready too!
Don't tell but it has to do with snow.. lol

Post by **pir8hntr** » Sat Jan 16, 2016 11:25 pm

Looks fantastic with all the people and drilled out details.

Post by **pir8hntr** » Sat Jan 16, 2016 11:26 pm

Stupid auto correct. PE not people.

Post by **Steady** » Sat Jan 16, 2016 11:57 pm

Looking great!
I didnt get a peice with a ready made hole in it for the engine cover instead the instruction told me to cut out my own then add the PE, it ended up looking quite good but man could I have done without sitting there for 40 minutes cutting out the plastic

Anyways keep it up!

Post by **MarkVerploeg** » Sun Jan 17, 2016 12:19 am

fly1ngdutchm4n wrote:
MarkVerploeg wrote:Nice progres so far Frans
i like it
keep up the good work

Thank you Mark.
Enjoying it so far.
Got a few scenarios in my head for it all ready too!
Don't tell but it has to do with snow.. lol

You mean that box of cocaine you showed on the facebook page ?

Post by **OliveDrab** » Sun Jan 17, 2016 1:04 am

The T34 is coming along great! Very nice touch with the added PE too

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sun Jan 17, 2016 12:33 pm

pir8hntr wrote:Stupid auto correct. PE not people.

LOL! No worries I hate auto correct too!
Thanks mate

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sun Jan 17, 2016 12:35 pm

OliveDrab wrote:The T34 is coming along great! Very nice touch with the added PE too

Thank you very much!

MarkVerploeg wrote:You mean that box of cocaine you showed on the facebook page ?

Snif! Yes.... Snif! That's the one I mean! Snnnnnnifffff!

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sun Jan 17, 2016 12:39 pm

Steady wrote:Looking great!
I didnt get a peice with a ready made hole in it for the engine cover instead the instruction told me to cut out my own then add the PE, it ended up looking quite good but man could I have done without sitting there for 40 minutes cutting out the plastic

Anyways keep it up!

I'm glad this kit has that open piece, saves a lot of time.
I did had to shave of some plastic from the inside though, the PE mesh was not fitting correctly.
The PE screen and squared-off edging is about 2mm too big for the opening in the hatch and the interior edge of the hatch shows under the screen. It appears that the opening is correct in size and the PE is wrong. But It was easier to trim down the plastic.

Post by **Jan01** » Sun Jan 17, 2016 6:43 pm

Nice going Frans, its looking great.

Post by **chief5437** » Sun Jan 17, 2016 6:55 pm

Looking good so far Frans

good luck with the rest of it buddy

Post by **hansolo** » Sun Jan 17, 2016 8:27 pm

Awesome thread so far, Frans!!
So much attention to detail and great reference material!

Post by **Nige201980** » Mon Jan 18, 2016 7:01 am

Cracking work Frans always enjoy watching your builds come together.

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Fri Jan 22, 2016 6:33 pm

Thanks guys!
Next update coming soon!

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Fri Jan 22, 2016 10:45 pm

Having a LOT of trouble uploading my pics on frekking Photo Bucket lately, pics are failing over and over again.
Don't now what the @#%!*&! the problem is when uploading 10, just 2 are uploaded..
But, After a couple of frustrating hours, I did managed to upload most, so here we go peep!

On each and every attack our valorous Red Army will answer with three times more powerful blows!

The Commanders cupola and main gun/mantlet and turret roof assembly.

A pretty straight forward build, good fit as well.

The turret roof is very good detailed, there is a mistake in the instructions though.
Part C17 has to be L15.

The gun mantle was a easy build, no problems here.

The other side of the gun is just cut loose and glued together.
Didn't bother to sand and detail it, for this tank is going to be buttoned up, so it will not be visible.

The turret identification number or cast number, had to be cut from the sprue one number at the time and glued on the turret.

The antenna mount on a factory 112 tank was re-located at the rear of the turret instead of the old side of the hull position.
Here the instructions call for part L35 but it has to be part L34

The handles in the instructions are incorrect for a 112 build.

The PE attachment points, and the railings themselves depicted in the instructions, are incorrect for a factory 112 tank … they made the grab handles from rod with the ends bent 90 degrees and directly welded to the turret/hull. The style shown in the instructions is for a factory 183 tank.

These parts look better, and as there will be a lot of them, I will use these on the hull.

For the tree handle bars on the turret I used wire florist use for bundling there flowers.
The come in large packages with different sizes, and plastic coated.

Drilled some holes, and pushed the wire in. Secured it with CA glue.
The casting number was treated with surface 500 to let it blend in.

And here are the handle bars on the hull.

External Fuel tanks

I have to use two tank halves, parts M7-M10. This will involve sanding off the molded on straps...a big pain. But the highlight of this kit are the ACCURATE tank mounts...made from 8 pieces of PE and 1 plastic kit piece.

Very fiddly to get all pieces glued on, but they do look great.
This is one of the rear tanks.

And the somewhat more complicated rear tank.

I still got to do one rear fuel tank, than I can start the tracks and do some detailing.

And with that bombshell, it's time to round up this update.
Thanks for watching, and happy modelling!

Post by **Steady** » Sat Jan 23, 2016 12:00 pm

Looking great!!

As for picture uploading, have you tried Imgur. Thats what I use, never had any problems with it.

Keep up the good work!

Post by **ezy** » Sat Jan 23, 2016 1:41 pm

Inspiring thread, great build so far. Love the reference pictures!

Never build a Dragon kit myself and I'm surprised by the number of mistakes you found in the instructions.
Is this typical for Dragon kits?

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sat Jan 23, 2016 3:52 pm

ezy wrote:Inspiring thread, great build so far. Love the reference pictures!

Never build a Dragon kit myself and I'm surprised by the number of mistakes you found in the instructions.
Is this typical for Dragon kits?

Thank you!

Dragon is known for making that kind of mistakes but thi s kit has a lot of them. I think thats because this is there original t34/85 kit and they made a conversion to the t34/76. So they had to change the instructions at some points too and forgot to change some of the numbers.

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sat Jan 23, 2016 3:53 pm

Steady wrote:Looking great!! As for picture uploading, have you tried Imgur. Thats what I use, never had any problems with it.

Keep up the good work!

Thank you very much!
I will have a look at imgur, thanks for the tip

Post by **gustavlekstal** » Sat Jan 23, 2016 9:17 pm

Some cool details with the cast number. Your fret and plastic skills are a joy to behold. Good luck

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sun Jan 24, 2016 9:41 am

gustavlekstal wrote:Some cool details with the cast number. Your fret and plastic skills are a joy to behold. Good luck

Thank you very much

Post by **rodrant** » Sun Jan 24, 2016 12:30 pm

Well you do again a magnificient build here, Frans ! You are the master in PE

Not like me that I give up on using the massive PE in my JS-2

, too much for me actually ...

Very nice build and thread here ! One to follow .

'For Mother Russia!!! '

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sun Jan 24, 2016 7:02 pm

rodrant wrote:Well you do again a magnificient build here, Frans ! You are the master in PE

Not like me that I give up on using the massive PE in my JS-2 , too much for me actually ...

Very nice build and thread here ! One to follow .

'For Mother Russia!!! '

Thank you very much my friend, kind words.

Ivé seen your JS-2 witch is awesome in my eyes.
Even if it does not have the fully PE upgrade.
I too make a decision not to use all PE.... Sometimes it's better to take the original parts.

Post by **chief5437** » Tue Jan 26, 2016 10:22 pm

Another great update Frans. Glad to see I'm not the only one having problems with photobucket, it's so frustrating! Keep it coming buddy!

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Wed Jan 27, 2016 7:25 am

chief5437 wrote:Another great update Frans. Glad to see I'm not the only one having problems with photobucket, it's so frustrating! Keep it coming buddy!

Thanks mate

Photobucket sucks big time momentarily. Im taking pics with my phone now and upload them with the app. Works a bit better. Not much, still better. I love this build. Working on the "apple pie" base as we speak. Lol ! Didn't felt like buildinhg tracks at the moment. A new update is coming soon

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Wed Jan 27, 2016 10:39 pm

Magic track time

The tracks supplied with this kit are the famous Dragon magic type.
Never worked with them, I normally replace them for metal tracks.
But they did look good to me, so I will give it a go.

The track links are the standard 500mm (waffle) track type of one with a guide horn and the next without. These tracks have holes in ONLY the non-guide horn tracks.

The tracks have knock out marks that need to be sanded off the inside face of each link.

The tracks are going to be build in two halves.
Top and bottom.

The top is pushed down with cotton buts onto the wheels to get the "sack" in the tracks.
I used a thick glue that will dry slow for I can form the tracks.

And that's one track done.

While this track is drying, I could work on the other track.
I did not.... Track building is mind killing for me, so I wanted to do something else for now, so I started at the base.

This piece of wood is sold at a garden shop, used to put candles on. I will put a freaking T34 on it.... lol
That big block is a soft foam that florist use to make bouquets with. In other words, putting flowers in.

A little bit of cutting and puzzling, I glued the piece s together with wood glue. The pieces also are kept together with tooth pics, because this kind of foam is really absorbing!

I draw the shape of a ditch/ river onto a piece of paper, and used it as a template on the foam.

Cut the shape out and trimmed down the rest of the foam.
I want a slight level in the base.

And here's my idea... Surrender!
The figure is a figure out of my stash that will fit perfectly here.
There are two more figures ordered in Australia and on it's way, together with some props.
Not going to tell the whole idea behind this, it will be told a few updates from here.
Got to keep some tension...

The Krycel "ice" I'm using is a ready made resin sheet from "precision Ice and snow", awesome product. They are to be found on youTube if you like to see how they work.

I used the same template as before to draw the shape on the ice.

I used a dremel with a diamond cutter to cut out the shape.
Wear eye and mouth protection, for it gives a lot of toxic mess!!

And test fitted the piece on the base

Plaster, but lighter! 3 times lighter then normal plaster.
Ok.... and 3 times more expensive too..... But worth it!

Made a thin smooth paste of it, and then poured it over the entire base.
Like icing a cake! Good thing I used to be a professional baker, so I kinda know what I'm doing....

When all plaster dried for a full day, I sprayed Aqua gloss on the entire base a couple of times.
This to make it stronger, and water tight.

Then a light sand color and again a layer of aqua gloss.

This is where im going for...

I put the resin ice into the fridge for a half hour, so it would break more easily when cold.
I took a screw driver and start breaking up the piece of ice.
The resin has a plastic backing paper underneath to prevent pieces to fly away.
And you don't have to make a puzzle of it.

Blocked the ends of the river to stop the still water from leaking.
Well.... that was the plan, but I had a bech full of resin a moment later.
Thank god for the news papers under it.

I didn't had to use a lot of still water, just enough to fill the cracks

Like some people already said on Faceboob, It does look like fish filet, or apple pie.... lol!

But with the T34 that is driving trough it, it looks pretty cool to me...

Added some snow on top of the ice, (I will show how next update) and with still water mixed with a tiny drop of chipping color, I filled up the cracks some more, and made sure the water would flow over the ice.

When the resin is all dried up, I will brush of all excess snow again.
This rounds up this update, hope you liked it!
Cheers guys, and happy modelling!

Post by **TheSmoo** » Thu Jan 28, 2016 1:13 am

wow cool effect with the cracked ice

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Thu Jan 28, 2016 9:17 am

TheSmoo wrote:wow cool effect with the cracked ice

Thank you very much!

Post by **fly1ngdutchm4n** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 6:58 pm

All right then
Time to spent some more time at the base, notice some problems, and solve them as you will see a bit later..
Put on your winter coat, your gloves and wool cap, or just put a sheep on top of your head, it's getting COLD!

Starting by adding some grass in the ditch.
These are grass tufts from miniatur.

Then by cutting different sizes hairs of a big block brush I created some tall grass/reed.
Just applied them with wood glue.

Then I mixed silicone gel with a small bit of Krycel snow

And applied it to the base.
To the left I made a snow heap for that will be a snow grave for one of the soldiers planed in this dio.
And yes, I already told him.. He wasn't happy though...

Then, with the same mixture I made footprints in the snow.
I simply spread some of the mix onto a piece of plastic, and with two boots found in my spare box, I walked the snow.

It made me think of this awesome scene...

[youtube]2x3VQ_yL_6w[/youtube]

And when it dried, I simply took the piece of the plastic, spread a small amount of silicon onto the base again, and put the piece with the footsteps on top of that. Easy peasy....

And when all was still wet, I put some skis in the snow.
The soldier surrendering to the T34 is from a German ski troop, but now his friend died, he's all alone.
Surrendering seem to be the best option here...

With hair spray and Krycel snow I made the skis more used.

Taped of all Ice, for I do not want to add more snow on top of the ice.

Snow putted in a micro sieve ready to use.
I have to work real fast here for I'm using hairspray as adhesive.

So no pics from the actual snowing...
To soften the disappointment, look at the next picture for 2 hours....

Almost the same.....

Looking sweet or what!?

Love this krycel stuff

The T34 is primed, and drying for 2 days.

Now the plan was to put the T34 like this on the dio

However.... It is not possible!
I completely forgot that this kit does not have workable suspension.
Driving over a ditch would work the suspension, and now it looks like he's hoovering...

How to solve this problem...

Idea... How about letting him drive trough the ditch, over the ice completely.
That would crack the ice too, and flatten the reed.
So I took out a small piece of ice that was sticking out, and made it flat so the track would be flat onto the ice.

Problem solved...

And the last thing I did so far Is putting a shovel next to the grave...

And that rounds up this update so far folks!
Go get yourself a hot cup of coco, and put your butt next to the fireplace and warm up!

I hope to see you next time!

Happy modelling guys!

Post by **Avgas** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 7:25 pm

Stunning stuff, great to see how other people's minds work.

Post by **patrickroos** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 7:56 pm

Fantastic build thread!

Very very nice work and equally interesting to follow.
That winter dio including the ice is a real cracker...

Great work!

Post by **MarkVerploeg** » Sun Jan 31, 2016 9:54 pm

What was going through your mind
if we can't have snow in the Netherlands i will have snow indoors
looks great though
keep upthe good work