Gundam markers-Are they good on models other than Gundams

[newmodeler]

Sorry if this question seems a bit noobish, but I am still learning. I am about to finish the Bandai Snowspeeder and it is actually turning out pretty well. Might be my first completely successful build. I am wanting to use something that will let the panel line detail pop out because I think that will make it look amazing. I know that there are panel line markers for Gundams but is that something that will work with other kits and still look good? I know Tamiya has a bottle of panel line accent color but that honestly looks like that could get really messy very quickly and I am not sure how to go about cleaning the excess off the model. Any help going about how to make panel lines pop would be greatly appreciated.

[Lysus]

I've dabbled with the Gundam Markers a bit, and eons ago when I built some Bandai kits I used a drafting ink pen (functionally the same) for some kit line marking.

Gundam Markers come in two types: a fine tip in black or grey, and broad felt tips in Gundam colors. The latter are for modelers who don't want to invest in paints and like to build out of the box and add a little color. This is important because the fine tips are meant for the same work, really. They can do a lot, but they can't do what the washes like Tamiya's can do. The limitation is the tip size; on a kit like a snow speeder you're bound to run into fine lines that are too small for the tip of the marker.

Also, the markers, as I mentioned, work best on unpainted plastic, or surfaces prepared with a nice coat of gloss. Otherwise you'll be trying to wipe ink or paint off paint if you slip up or it looks too thick and that can lead to trouble.

A wash, on the other hand, will suck in the ink/paint through capillary action into even very fine panel lining. This guy has a quick-ish demonstration of how to apply and clean (cleaning at about 16:00):

[youtube]XPFANkX5bW4[/youtube]

Alternatively you can use grey or black paint that's been thinned to an ink consistency. The important takeaway is that with just a touch of the tip of the brush, the paint flows into the lines, sparing you from scribbling all over the surface of your kit.

All-over washes (like Ultimate) aren't always necessary if you're just going for panel accents, they're better for covering armor or aircraft that need dirt, grime, and oil effects; a pin wash (taking a fine tip brush and touching the panel line as in that video) is better for simple lining.

[newmodeler]

I've dabbled with the Gundam Markers a bit, and eons ago when I built some Bandai kits I used a drafting ink pen (functionally the same) for some kit line marking.

Gundam Markers come in two types: a fine tip in black or grey, and broad felt tips in Gundam colors. The latter are for modelers who don't want to invest in paints and like to build out of the box and add a little color. This is important because the fine tips are meant for the same work, really. They can do a lot, but they can't do what the washes like Tamiya's can do. The limitation is the tip size; on a kit like a snow speeder you're bound to run into fine lines that are too small for the tip of the marker.

Also, the markers, as I mentioned, work best on unpainted plastic, or surfaces prepared with a nice coat of gloss. Otherwise you'll be trying to wipe ink or paint off paint if you slip up or it looks too thick and that can lead to trouble.

A wash, on the other hand, will suck in the ink/paint through capillary action into even very fine panel lining. This guy has a quick-ish demonstration of how to apply and clean (cleaning at about 16:00):

[youtube]XPFANkX5bW4[/youtube]

Alternatively you can use grey or black paint that's been thinned to an ink consistency. The important takeaway is that with just a touch of the tip of the brush, the paint flows into the lines, sparing you from scribbling all over the surface of your kit.

All-over washes (like Ultimate) aren't always necessary if you're just going for panel accents, they're better for covering armor or aircraft that need dirt, grime, and oil effects; a pin wash (taking a fine tip brush and touching the panel line as in that video) is better for simple lining.

Thanks, Lysus. Why lighter fluid though? Wouldn't that corrode the plastic and also make it really flammable?

[Lysus]

Thanks, Lysus. Why lighter fluid though? Wouldn't that corrode the plastic and also make it really flammable?

Whoops, I mean to address this. Before washes like Tamiya came to market modelers did what modelers do, homebrew solutions. Coen made a remark regarding Future for clear coats elsewhere on this forum, so I'll paraphrase his advice. Like Future, lighter fluid will clean the ink, but it's made to do something else and isn't tested for this kind of work. So don't use it.

If you've painted the speeder and are ready to pin wash with paint and brush or panel line with a marker, you need a protective layer of gloss coat on the paint. Once that coat is on, you can use enamel thinner (for Tamiya wash at any rate) on a cotton bud to clean up slop. Use a tiny bit, and change buds once they get saturated with paint (more often the better-don't let them get full of color).

Repeat until the line is as clean as you want.

The lighter fluid will break down plastic (chemistry! ) and is just not advisable. Also, so too will the wash as it's pre-thinned with thinner. So really the gloss coat is the necessary step here.

I'd say get a gloss coat on, then test it on a tiny area somewhere that won't be seen often, say under a wing. Or test on another kit if you have a guinea pig.

[newmodeler]

Thanks, Lysus. Why lighter fluid though? Wouldn't that corrode the plastic and also make it really flammable?

Whoops, I mean to address this. Before washes like Tamiya came to market modelers did what modelers do, homebrew solutions. Coen made a remark regarding Future for clear coats elsewhere on this forum, so I'll paraphrase his advice. Like Future, lighter fluid will clean the ink, but it's made to do something else and isn't tested for this kind of work. So don't use it.

If you've painted the speeder and are ready to pin wash with paint and brush or panel line with a marker, you need a protective layer of gloss coat on the paint. Once that coat is on, you can use enamel thinner (for Tamiya wash at any rate) on a cotton bud to clean up slop. Use a tiny bit, and change buds once they get saturated with paint (more often the better-don't let them get full of color).

Repeat until the line is as clean as you want.

The lighter fluid will break down plastic (chemistry! ) and is just not advisable. Also, so too will the wash as it's pre-thinned with thinner. So really the gloss coat is the necessary step here.

I'd say get a gloss coat on, then test it on a tiny area somewhere that won't be seen often, say under a wing. Or test on another kit if you have a guinea pig.

Just so I am understanding you correctly the process should be:

1)paint first
2)put a gloss over the paint(to protect the paint)
3)apply panel line accent

Is that correct? Just want to make sure I am doing this right. This will be the first time doing anything to a kit other than just assembling it.

[Lysus]

Yep, you got it. After the lining or wash, you'd do a second coat of gloss or matte depending upon what look you're going for. Rebel speeders will probably want a matte top coat.

Because I'm a visual person:



Don't worry about those color ratios, that's what that person prefers. The important take away is the order of layers from plastic to top coat.