Techniques you just can't solve....

[gazmat]

As per title really....I used to to have a nightmare masking cockpits prefer not using masks, because I wanted to perfect it...just tonight, been doing a Heinkel 111...loads of clear to mask up, I have now managed to do a decent job of this technique on most of my models.

Another was thinning the paint just right for pre shading to come through, took me a while to learn that one, no problems anymore with that.....But what I do have problems with, is

Bit like this, the dark blending into the green, I can do the dark, using panel wash, or oils but can't get that fading away from the dark....as much as I try, that is just a technique I just can't do yet...



And heres another one....getting the streaking effect, its an airbrush technique and brush,would love to get somewhere near to this excellent example of the exhaust staining..... but again another one not yet mastered (loads more..lol), so if you have any special processes for these methods please let me know....so guys, whats your achilles heel when it comes to technique

[kpisnuts]

Most of what I try doesn't work, I just keep trying, of late I ruin more models than not, I must admit my confidence has taken a real bashing of late, keep at it I'm sure you will succeed in the end, that's what's keeping me going.

[gazmat]

Blimey...no one with any technique problems, wow, you guys are are good...tongue firmly in cheek

[digger303]

Blimey...no one with any technique problems, wow, you guys are are good...tongue firmly in cheek

yeah we'r all good

[wookiee76]

I pretty much blow at anything involving oils or decals.

[Vleugelmoer]

Hi there Gazmat,

For a more subtile fading effets inside of aircraft panels you might want to look into the new line of Tamiya panel line accent colors. These are enamel washes that can be faded in with some odorless terpentine it the base colors are acrylic. These are applied directly to the paint no clear coat in between.

For the streaking effect use a wash. The wash is applied in what is known in the modeling world as a "sludge wash". You cover the entire model or certain parts of it with the selected wash over a gloss intermediate base (this is very important and do not forget). After the was has dried its time to read the medicine cabinet for the box of coton swabs Q-tips. If you remove the excess wash in a front to back motion after the majority of the was has been removed you will naturally start to make streaks.

For minor streaking you can do what is know as a "dot filter". Here you place small dots of oil paint to certain areas of the model. Take a moistened Q-tip (odorless terpentine) and start removing the dots. Again use the front to back motion or direction of airflow is that area.

Hope this quick how to helps you out, There are loads of videos on YouTube going into this subject in greater length and detail and I would recommend watching several because some are a bit brand tainted

As always happy modeling and keep sticking styrene,

Paul J

[gazmat]

Thanks for the detailed reply Paul, much appreciated, I normally do a oil wash for picking out the detail, using Mig oils using it with the turpentine, I don't struggle with the application, its the blending from dark to light, I seem to have the problem with, I use a dry brush to sweep it away from the dark, but for some stupid reason, it either takes away the dark too much and left with nothing, or the part seems to be too dark, not enough blending/ transition to make it look natural, as the first picture shows....I guess your right though, will trawl through the videos....I will crack it eventually.
Thanks again Paul for your reply.

[Scottwba]

I struggle with pre shading panel lines, either they are too wide spray line or my hand shakes & looks like a 3 year olds done them, my airbrush is an ultra but struggle with spraying thin lines, one day I will get it right!

[Lysus]

But then that's also why do it.

[Avgas]

I don't have a problem putting pre shading on, I just seem to cover it all up when I do the main paint. I also have problems with decals that go over curved surfaces like fuselages and are meant to join up. My worst and most frustrating problem is getting the wings on biplanes to join up. its something you do near the end of the build after you have spent hours doing a good job on the majority of the kit, only for it all to end in tears. I've stopped building them for that reason which is a shame as I love them but can't stand the frustration...

[MarkVerploeg]

I don't have a problem putting pre shading on, I just seem to cover it all up when I do the main paint. I also have problems with decals that go over curved surfaces like fuselages and are meant to join up. My worst and most frustrating problem is getting the wings on biplanes to join up. its something you do near the end of the build after you have spent hours doing a good job on the majority of the kit, only for it all to end in tears. I've stopped building them for that reason which is a shame as I love them but can't stand the frustration...

Let me first say that i'm no expert at all on the subject of painting techniques but i know the feeling when you cover your pre shading
I had that a number of times and for my current plane build i will change the way i work
I will be following the techniques fron the aircraft FAQ book and the author uses post shading on a WWII US Navy plane
This way you can use the regular base color but you can use lighter colors to do the faded middle of the panel
Another way is to use some oilpaints for that
But in all honesty i think the weathering and painting techniques in that book are pretty elaborate
He uses much more techniques and materials for weathering then i ever used
And it really includes all kinds of things from chipping mediums on a metallic base to the use of pastel pencils to draw small paint chips
And things like oilpaints and transparent paints for various parts of planes
If you don't already own that book i would really recommend it
It is full of tech iques and guides on how to do certain parts of your build
Including tips on what kind of colors you can use to achieve cetain effects
But in the end practice is inportant too and as i found out with my figure painting lately it is really fun to try new techniques

[Avgas]

Thanks for the tip Mark.

[MarkVerploeg]

You're welcome
I have the same problem with some colors and pre shading
And since my Dauntless will be in a blue scheme it is very likely that pre shading won't work as the blue is a strong color so i think it will cover the pre shading in a heart beat

[gazmat]

The FAQ is just superb, I use mine as reference all the time....but, I guess its a certain amount of practise/time on all techniques, some are a lot easier than others, I have found, Panel lines/Pre shading, I was the same, used to do 2 coats, and they were gone....I realised, that you really do need to thin the paint down a lot ( a lot more than I ever thought), 75% thinners (dependant on manufacturer)...I may give 6/7 coats, I would rather do that, than loose the pre shading...

[MarkVerploeg]

It all requires some practice
And indeed some techniques are easier then others
Painting with a airbrush in general takes practice and in some cases a bit of talent
Free hand art work is not something everyone can do
But that is not something we all try
Thinning is something you need to learn aswell but even a good thinned paint can cover the surface very well
Some colors just cover better then others