1/48 Special Hobby Supermarine Seafire Mk. III

[Hackovsky]

So I decided to join also. It was completly not planned I bought the kit this week from one modeller. Just a OOB build. Extras provided from manufacturer is enough. Another interesting info from scalemates is that all Seafires and Spitfires Mk. V from Revell are from Special Hobby also

[Hackovsky]

And rest of the pictures I decided to go for scheme of the clipped Seafire. Here are some details regarding this one:

Supermarine Seafire LF Mk. III, NF547|2D, No.885 Squadron NAS, No.3 Naval (Air spotting Wing), RNAS, Lee-on-Solent, June 1944. This Westland produced Seafire was camouflaged in the Day Figther Scheme (RAF camouflage colours) but the scheme template corresponded to the Sea Scheme. When the tail of the plane was replaced they were painted by base grey-green colour. The machine received complete Invasion stripes and is documented on contemporary photographs wearing black as well as white spinner. Similarly to the other No. 3 NASW Seafires, pilot of this machine also directed fire of the invasion fleet battleships. It was dangerous work since the pilots were endangered by both AA fire and enemy fighters. S/L R.C.S. Chamen flying NF547 managed to shot down one Bf 109 on June 8, 1944 and on June 16 Sub. Lt. R. Hales also in the cockpit of NF547 damaged two other Bf 109Gs.

[DC87]

Nice choice, looks good. Best of luck.

[Hackovsky]

Nice choice, looks good. Best of luck.

Thanks Dan!

[Hackovsky]

So, as the group build started, here are some pics from the build.

[Hackovsky]

One half of the wing was not moulded correctly and I didn`t dry fit it enough Stupid mistake. I will correct it with the filler, but the wing tip will have a small step. I will check up, whether there is a way, how to correct it.

Interior was primed with the black primer and then airbrushed with Hataka Interior Grey-green color. I had some issues with the paints before, so I`ve added 1 drop of retarder and it went nicely down. Instrument panel was given black priming and left. Layers of the PE and film are connected with gloss varnish (makes the dials look covered with glass).

[jnbattleship]

Quite a progress. I like the model and your effort

[Hackovsky]

Quite a progress. I like the model and your effort

Thank you for checking my build

[Hackovsky]

I moved yesterday little bit forward. Cockipt got clear varnish coat and was weathered by using AK interior wash for AFV. It is nice grey green color, so it is not so visible, but the details came out.

[Hackovsky]

Here are pics of the seat. I use mainly the PE from Eduard - prepainted. But these came only non painted - so hand painting job was needed. At first I was affraid, but it ended pretty good.

As the build manual is not clear in some points, I am using the Eduard`s Mk.IXc manuals to check some details and paint reference.

There is one issue with the wing and fuselage. It was caused probably by the cockpit sides. Anyway, now it is glued in place and I will need to sort out the join seems with filler.

[TommyKillander]

Excellent work with the Seafire

The cockpit looks fantastic!

Keep up the good work.


Tommy

[Avgas]

Excellent work, interesting subject.

[martin57]

Looking good so far , this will be very nice when your done with it

[Hackovsky]

Thank you for all the comments guys. During the Easters I made this progress. The main scope was to fill the terrible gaps and prepare for painting.

[Hackovsky]

And here are some quick shots of the Seafire after surfacer and primer treatment + masks for invasion stripes. Canopy was masked by masking fluid.

[Hackovsky]

And last picture from the session. I used new formula Hataka paints and there are no complains so far. Little bit of thinnig - better less then more. The camo scheme was done by blue tack.

[Hackovsky]

Aaaaaand weekend update Well it could be described by one word - MASKING Tamiya tape was put to good use. The size I have home made the exact size, so at least I did not need to trim them.

The tail part is painted in interior grey green as it was replaced during the planes service. Only the elevators remained in masking scheme. There are some places to be corrected. I will probably do it with the help of the brush as they are tiny. Hope I will be able to clear cote the plane during this week and during the weekend move to the weathering. Box art is good reference for the scratches and exhaust fumes.

[jnbattleship]

Looks stunning. I adore the invasion stripes and have to say that every time the build is closing to decal stage it is a little tingle.

[martin57]

Great effort so far , good work on the stripes.

[pourquoi61]

Great model so far.

[RossiM1]

Great job love the stripes very neat paint job

[jnbattleship]

Quick question; how you thin your hataka paints and what psi you use? Never used them before but have bought two of their sets lately.

[Hackovsky]

Thank you all for comments. It is pushing me forward And here is again update. I used Mr Color Gx100 Super Clear III for whole surface. I will then little sand it under the water to achieve smoother surface. As usually there are steps in place of the masking. And question to all of you, how do you deal with the corners? When I airbrush the paint there, then on the side the dry paint accumulate and orange skin appears (and again sanding).

[Hackovsky]

Quick question; how you thin your hataka paints and what psi you use? Never used them before but have bought two of their sets lately.

regarding this, it is necessary to have the Psi between 30 to 40. Thinning is kind of different. I am using aprox 70/30 ratio (paint to thinner). Good shake is also needed. But it could be used. Not like the formula before. I will later change to Orange lacquer type. If it smell, it works

[Hackovsky]

This evening session result. Decals are in place. Not all, but because of the changes done to this marking, not of them are applied.

[Hackovsky]

And now question for all. How to coop with this one? I have home Mr.Softer neo, so I guess more layers will be necessary. Or is there other option?

[jnbattleship]

if you are brave, puncture the decal and apply just little tamiya extra thin as possible without marring the paint. There will be some damage to decal but it should conform

[Hackovsky]

if you are brave, puncture the decal and apply just little tamiya extra thin as possible without marring the paint. There will be some damage to decal but it should conform

Thanks for the tip. I checked the decals in the morning and it looks better. So I put there another layer, so hope it will be better in the afternoon.