Fujimi 1/20 - Williams FW16 San Marino GP 1994 Deluxe Edition.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Looking good Patrik, the details on the dash and the suspension control panel look very sharp, have never used the Tamiya paper harness's before I normally use some 2mm & 3mm Offray haberdashers ribbon and buckles by Top Studio or similar. Looking forward to seeing the paint go on love that Rothmans livery.
I hate to admit that my hoard has got out of control over the years, I have over 70 1/43rds F1 cars to build, plus 6 1/12ths Tamiya and Protar F1's 3 MFH F1's Toleman ,Williams FW16 like your Fujimi, Ferrari 312T4, plus more Rally, GT, and bikes than I care to count plus aircraft, I think I have an addiction, but hey ho.
Good luck with the progress loving the updates.
Gary

Thanks Gary.
Those paper harnesses don't even come pre-cut. I don't recommend these sets unless you want to save on expenses, or one is in desperate need of the tire template.

Jesus! You and Scott can start your own F1 model museums.
However i think its an positive addiction, unless you guys are sitting in a dark corner on the floor, gently caressing and talking to the kits.

..and that strikes a little too close to home.
I would call it more fondling than caressing and really the kit allows it and appreciates it so not like it is weird or sick or anything bad like that

I made a metal 1/20 Bugatti last summer, there is a long thread on the "wheely good" ISM sig.
Working in metal is both a hassle and a blast mostly lots of fun and the model has great weight and presence.
Making add on stuff in brass or aluminum is a bit addictive as well.
I negotiated the Canadian seller of the MFH kit to $200cad from $350 so felt I got a reasonable deal vs what I see on E Bay.

[Davethepitch]

I never used the paper seat belts as they did not seem real

[Patrik72]

That is a nice blue colour who is it made by
.

I bought this one.
http://www.hiroboy.com/Williams_FW16_Ro ... -1471.html

[Patrik72]

Looking good Patrik, the details on the dash and the suspension control panel look very sharp, have never used the Tamiya paper harness's before I normally use some 2mm & 3mm Offray haberdashers ribbon and buckles by Top Studio or similar. Looking forward to seeing the paint go on love that Rothmans livery.
I hate to admit that my hoard has got out of control over the years, I have over 70 1/43rds F1 cars to build, plus 6 1/12ths Tamiya and Protar F1's 3 MFH F1's Toleman ,Williams FW16 like your Fujimi, Ferrari 312T4, plus more Rally, GT, and bikes than I care to count plus aircraft, I think I have an addiction, but hey ho.
Good luck with the progress loving the updates.
Gary

Thanks Gary.
Those paper harnesses don't even come pre-cut. I don't recommend these sets unless you want to save on expenses, or one is in desperate need of the tire template.

Jesus! You and Scott can start your own F1 model museums.
However i think its an positive addiction, unless you guys are sitting in a dark corner on the floor, gently caressing and talking to the kits.

..and that strikes a little too close to home.
I would call it more fondling than caressing and really the kit allows it and appreciates it so not like it is weird or sick or anything bad like that

I made a metal 1/20 Bugatti last summer, there is a long thread on the "wheely good" ISM sig.
Working in metal is both a hassle and a blast mostly lots of fun and the model has great weight and presence.
Making add on stuff in brass or aluminum is a bit addictive as well.
I negotiated the Canadian seller of the MFH kit to $200cad from $350 so felt I got a reasonable deal vs what I see on E Bay.

I´ll check in on the Bugatti build. Here i thought that metal kits where more of a few screws and bolts + snapping bits together.
Still a pretty serious sum, would not want to make any mistakes building a kit like that.

[Patrik72]

I never used the paper seat belts as they did not seem real

If the model stands in shadow and you squint your eyes, the seatbelts look ok.

[exmoor]

This is looking good pat

[Patrik72]

This is looking good pat

Thank you Paul.

Sorry for the late reply. Been having my hands full all weekend.

[Patrik72]

Im pissed, think i got some water mixed into the paint. It was on the LAST pass on that side . Dont know what to do about it. Never happened to me before. Maybe it will buff out...

IMG_9825.JPG

And my masking...Lets not go there...

09E521D4-0FB0-4AA2-8A36-F0FDDA6D8BAF.jpg

My painting f***ed up a nice kit and a historic race car.

[ElCapitan]

I've no experience of that kind of problem, but I would imagine that once it's fully dry it might be possible to smooth it off.

[exmoor]

Dont know pat it looks like the paint was drying when it hit the plastic .if it was me i would sand and prime and give it anotheir go .dont give up it happens to all of us,some of us just dont admit it .

[Patrik72]

I've no experience of that kind of problem, but I would imagine that once it's fully dry it might be possible to smooth it off.

Dont know pat it looks like the paint was drying when it hit the plastic .if it was me i would sand and prime and give it anotheir go .dont give up it happens to all of us,some of us just dont admit it .

Hehe, im not giving up. Not that type. Im just annoyed that it happened now and on this kit.

Ok, so if its because it was drying before it hit the plastic. Can that be because i painted with too high pressure? (20-22 psi).

I´ll give it a rest and see if it can be buffed. If not, then i will sand and redo it.

Guess what i just found in the plastic bag with the decals. The self-adhesive masking thing for the car.

[exmoor]

Perhaps pat am not a pro but i have had times when i was spraying to far away from the model then it starts drying before it gets there any way good luck pat i will wait for the next instalment

[Twokidsnosleep]

So many variables in airbrush issues.
Painting at too high an ambient temperature outside...paint will dry in the air before hits model
Holding the spray too far away from the target...paint dries early and hits target dried
Pressure issues...usually for me too high means I am blowing sloppy wet paint all over the model rather than it atomizing nicely
Yours looks to have caught up some dust in it as well.

I am sure others will chime in

[RossiM1]

I think I would agree with Paul usually if the paint is thin, and the air pressure is to high it causes it to be virtually dry as it hits the model surface, have done this myself when not using me glasses to set the regulator on the compressor instead of winding it down from 25psi to 12 for spraying some mottling I went the other dam way mottling at 40psi is not recommended it came out like blotchy sandpaper. Possibly a light rub down Pat will remove the rough texture then a quick re spray. Just a tip to avoid the step in the two colours where it is masked if you don't mind me saying Pat, when the 1st colour is dry give it a light clear coat, then mask, I use a fine line tape first, then my regular width tape, which I slightly overlap the fine line tape with, then spray a light clear coat over the taped line, this gives a sharp edge without a step, and prevents paint bleeding through.
I am sure you will turn this little set back around, look forward to seeing it progressing again.
ATB
Gary

[Patrik72]

So many variables in airbrush issues.
Painting at too high an ambient temperature outside...paint will dry in the air before hits model
Holding the spray too far away from the target...paint dries early and hits target dried
Pressure issues...usually for me too high means I am blowing sloppy wet paint all over the model rather than it atomizing nicely
Yours looks to have caught up some dust in it as well.

I am sure others will chime in

I found it so strange since the blue color went down fairly well. Both colors are from the same brand, and are made ready to use in the airbrush. I also suspect that because they are a lacquer, they are harder to spray well for an amateur like me.

The outside temperature is in the minus, and we had our first snow. But that did not seam to bother the blue paint.

In the end, i believe the problem is found behind the airbrush.

I think I would agree with Paul usually if the paint is thin, and the air pressure is to high it causes it to be virtually dry as it hits the model surface, have done this myself when not using me glasses to set the regulator on the compressor instead of winding it down from 25psi to 12 for spraying some mottling I went the other dam way mottling at 40psi is not recommended it came out like blotchy sandpaper. Possibly a light rub down Pat will remove the rough texture then a quick re spray. Just a tip to avoid the step in the two colours where it is masked if you don't mind me saying Pat, when the 1st colour is dry give it a light clear coat, then mask, I use a fine line tape first, then my regular width tape, which I slightly overlap the fine line tape with, then spray a light clear coat over the taped line, this gives a sharp edge without a step, and prevents paint bleeding through.
I am sure you will turn this little set back around, look forward to seeing it progressing again.
ATB
Gary

Yup, sandpaper is the correct term for how it looks and feels. Tried to buff it, but no luck. Just have to redo the entire paintjob, both colors. Its a learning-process and i have to admit that i was the biggest cause for the failed spraying.

The way you describe the masking, that is how i went about it. The fine line tape i used is 0,4mm and the used my 10mm to overlap it with half. Now here is what i did not do, the clear cote over the tape.

Now that i found the masking sheet, (which i had totally forgot about. It came with the kit) it will be easier to mask the correct shape. Some how i find it lucky that it turned out this way. If i had use the masking sheet on my first try, then it would of been ruined now and i would be in a deeper mess.

A big thank you for all you guys who dropped a few encouraging words and shared your tips & tricks!
I hope i can repay that favor to all of you in the future if your ever found yourselves in trouble with a build.

[Patrik72]

So the monocoque will be sanded, primed and repainted. Meanwhile i wanted to take care of few of the other parts so they can be primed in the same go later.

What i found was that the kit has a few problems. The nosecone and the engine-cover both had plastic that is like holes/"craters" in them. They are found on both sides. So these needs to be fixed.

IMG_9830.JPG

IMG_9831.JPG

[Patrik72]

Used milliput to cover these "holes" up. Will let it sit and harden for 24 hours before i start sanding down and smoothing the surface.

IMG_9832.JPG

IMG_9833.JPG

[RossiM1]

Any progress Patrik ?

[Patrik72]

Any progress Patrik ?

Hi Gary!

Not much. The build have been standing still, except for some small stuff. Finished the tires and wheels, sanded the milliput.

My aim is to have the car finished by Christmas. I hope i can make that deadline i sat for myself. Updates will come as soon as im on top of the build again.

Thanks for asking!

[RossiM1]

Good to hear its still going on looking forward to seeing it all come together.
Good luck

[Patrik72]

Good to hear its still going on looking forward to seeing it all come together.
Good luck

Thanks!

Been a while since i did any work on the car. I feel like i need to go back to some easier builds before continuing with this one, practicing on my airbrushing skills.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Saw this pop back up and completely understand taking a bit of a break....no problems better to take your time, especially on a car that means so much to you.

Having a bit of insomnia tonight so re-read the entire thread, such a good one with lots of side chatter and interest beyond just modelling.
I didn't answer a question about watches,another interest we share. My collection are all Citizen at this point. I have one metal automatic Citizen that I wear regularly and then a few of the solar powered ones that I love as they don't rely on battery. Not too big or flashy and super reliable. Been a bit off the hobby as it can be so expensive and my discretionary money is spoken for with house.

[Patrik72]

Saw this pop back up and completely understand taking a bit of a break....no problems better to take your time, especially on a car that means so much to you.

Having a bit of insomnia tonight so re-read the entire thread, such a good one with lots of side chatter and interest beyond just modelling.
I didn't answer a question about watches,another interest we share. My collection are all Citizen at this point. I have one metal automatic Citizen that I wear regularly and then a few of the solar powered ones that I love as they don't rely on battery. Not too big or flashy and super reliable. Been a bit off the hobby as it can be so expensive and my discretionary money is spoken for with house.

Month of December is pretty crazy, had no time at all to sit down and build or paint. No big deal since its the time for Christmas and having fun with the family, but it can get pretty stressful.

Citizen are sweet. Owned 2 myself, the Nighthawk and the Ecozilla (Both solar-powered). Regret selling the Nighthawk, it was such a cool watch. The Ecozilla was however just too large for my wrist. Never been into the blingy or flashy watches. I like toolwatches (divers, pilots and tactical watches), watches that can take some abuse.

Love to know more about your collection of Citizen watches

[Twokidsnosleep]

I got them all packed up at the moment...and honestly not sure where
Maybe we need a "show me your watch collection" thread for in off topics so we don't miss your build thread

[Patrik72]

I got them all packed up at the moment...and honestly not sure where
Maybe we need a "show me your watch collection" thread for in off topics so we don't miss your build thread

Got it!

[RossiM1]

Hi Patrik great to see it's been resurrected look forward to seeing it race to completion
ATB

[Patrik72]

Hi Patrik great to see it's been resurrected look forward to seeing it race to completion
ATB

Hi Gary!

Hoping that spring comes early so i can start painting again. (No paint-booth). Going to start practicing on some easier model at first, to get into the groove.

[Patrik72]

The only parts i´v done so far are the tires and wheels. I do want the tires to look used so i will probably work a bit more on them. Not much of an update but i managed to get the flu and it just drained me of everything.

IMG_0966.JPG

[Twokidsnosleep]

Those look very good with the OZ stickers especially
Keep plugging away bit by bit

[exmoor]

There looking good pat i had a game with my tyre decals for the mclaren in the end rossi aka gary sent me some which was very good of him just got to put them on

[Patrik72]

There looking good pat i had a game with my tyre decals for the mclaren in the end rossi aka gary sent me some which was very good of him just got to put them on

I bought a metal template from Tamiya so i could just paint it on. Looks much better then the original decals i tried at first.

That was a very nice gesture by Gary. Great when the community help each other out when in need.

[andyh787]

Just starting this kit myself, but want to build it as the FW16b from the 94 Adelaide GP. Does anyone know where I get the bargeboards and rear wing from, I can make the other changes to the San Marino car myself. Thanks Andy

[bfrd]

Awesome work!

I have been wanting to do an F1 build, this thread has not changed my mind. I just can't find a good Ferrari that I like. That and I don't have a lot of time.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Awesome work!

I have been wanting to do an F1 build, this thread has not changed my mind. I just can't find a good Ferrari that I like. That and I don't have a lot of time.

I would suggest the Tamiya 1/20 F1 car kits.....they are well engineered kits and go together well. Some are pricey, others not, just take some time and find the right one. I have, ahem, a couple of them.



Couple dozen