Sprue Goo - How much runner?

[Lysus]

I have been considering trying out some sprue goo as a filler but I'm curious how much plastic you drop into the TET. I understand that the thickness/consistency depends on how much you add but I have no idea how much to even start with.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Start with a little ...and then add more as approach desired thickness

And tell me how it goes as I am chicken to do my extra bottle.

Ok you have inspired me, I am adding some Evergreen now
I am going to use “Pureblood” sprue....none of that muggle, inbred stuff


I would think to chop up the bigger pieces to get better surface area for it to dissolve quicker and thouroughly

[Twokidsnosleep]

And So IT Begins....



At least I have someone to blame if I Stuff this up

[Twokidsnosleep]

Now I am just fooling around
You know when you have a deadline and the pressure is on, but you are so easily distracted to do the most silly things???
Ya, well , that is me
‘The kettles on the boil and we’re so easily drawn away’...OOooo gotta go look up Wings songs now
Uhhh, try and keep the cap on AMAP, you get a little high from the fumes if you don’t

[digger303]

what I do is have bottle 1/3 full of tet then cut enough sprue into 3/4" pieces that when added to the tet it is forms a pile 1/2 in tet half out. It will then melt down into a medium consistency glob. I also use sprue plastic that glues easily as opposed to those that can be troublesome. Whether that helps or not I don't know, but it seems reasonably logical.
If it is too thick add more tet, if too runny add sprue.

[Lysus]

I'm happy to serve as ypur scapegoat. I'll probably slip out tomorrow for a new bottle and try it. Can't wait to see more.

The crazy bit of me is thinking I should make one with standard polystyrene and another with Bandai (their plastic isn't quite the same as Hasegawa or Tamiya).

[Lysus]

what I do is have bottle 1/3 full of tet then cut enough sprue into 3/4" pieces that when added to the tet it is forms a pile 1/2 in tet half out. It will then melt down into a medium consistency glob. I also use sprue plastic that glues easily as opposed to those that can be troublesome. Whether that helps or not I don't know, but it seems reasonably logical.
If it is too thick add more tet, if too runny add sprue.

AS always you have a reasonable response. Thanks to two years of use and the inevitable spill my bottle is pretty much at 1/3 full already

[Twokidsnosleep]

Muggle

“The crazy bit of me is thinking I should make one with standard polystyrene and another with Bandai (their plastic isn't quite the same as Hasegawa or Tamiya).“

Yes that would make sense as you do a lot of Bandai stuff vs normal styrene builds with the Tamiya

[digger303]

Muggle

guessing that's directed at me Mr Weasley

[Lysus]

Muggle

guessing that's directed at me Mr Weasley

[Twokidsnosleep]

Muggle

guessing that's directed at me Mr Weasley

Indeed
And Weasley gets the hot girl in the end, so would be happy to be him

[digger303]

guessing that's directed at me Mr Weasley

Indeed
And Weasley gets the hot girl in the end, so would be happy to be him

No....I said Mr Weasley.....sorry

[Twokidsnosleep]

DAMN!!!
Nooooooo

[Stokesy44]

All very interesting but how do you get the stuff out of the bottle when you want to use it and how do you apply it?

[schweinhund227]

Although I have tried it a few times in the past; I no longer do.... due to many factors...
The gaps are getting almost non-existent in most kits I work on now a days...

and since switched to this product.



The same idea I guess... it loves TET to massaged into shape while curing.

as someone mentioned above.... I found that not all styrene are equal and had some weird melting effect on some
kits... and found it took quite a while to cure hard...

just keep that in mind.

[Cymru]

All very interesting but how do you get the stuff out of the bottle when you want to use it and how do you apply it?

You can use the TET's own applicator or an old brush. Apply as you would any other paste/glue, it's great for large gaps and seems where you need to go back and re-scribe. Only down side is the long cure time.

[Stokesy44]

All very interesting but how do you get the stuff out of the bottle when you want to use it and how do you apply it?

You can use the TET's own applicator or an old brush. Apply as you would any other paste/glue, it's great for large gaps and seems where you need to go back and re-scribe. Only down side is the long cure time.

Cheers mate

[DrSprue]

Hmm this is a post I will follow. Being I am quite new and not wanting to waste a new bottle of TET by Tamiya I made some with a very old version of Testors Plastic Cement.... TPC

What do I mean about old??.. Had a few bottles of about 25 years or more Testors! I mean they are as yellow as P***.

Here is a pic of the Sprue goo I made in the middle. It says Dr.Sprue on it. (The Testors to the left is a brand new bottle given to me by my daughter ) To the right! I dont even want to talk about that!


I put in about a third full of TPC with a bunch of muggle, inbred plastic from many old 90s kit sprues filling the top. It took a few days for it to melt. This was really too thick when I started so I had to add in a bit more Testors to make it a bit thinner. It was almost like tooth paste. So I got it a little bit thinner to flow out a bit more and I think came out to be a 50/50 mix.

One thing I noticed since I looked at some videos that mentioed it, was the smell?? Yikes! It does take days to cure like so many have commented, but this really stinks. I have to put the fan on to even stay in my lab to continue a build. Does it work any better than TET. I dont know...again, Im a returning old modeler. Im still on my 1st bottle of TET. Does this help out this post? I dont really think so. What do I use to apply it... A toothpick

1) - Is old wine good.. yes

2) - Is old TPC Goo good.. I have a few models using it and its fine.

3) - Is TET Goo good.. Im sure it works great.

4) - Did I help this post... no

Hmm I see it looks to be a bit of a DARK green color? Look at the plastic frame I made out of sprues and look at the color of my Goo?? It even looks old!

[Twokidsnosleep]

Hmm this is a post I will follow. Being I am quite new and not wanting to waste a new bottle of TET by Tamiya I made some with a very old version of Testors Plastic Cement.... TPC

What do I mean about old??.. Had a few bottles of about 25 years or more Testors! I mean they are as yellow as P***.

Here is a pic of the Sprue goo I made in the middle. It says Dr.Sprue on it. (The Testors to the left is a brand new bottle given to me by my daughter ) To the right! I dont even want to talk about that!


I put in about a third full of TPC with a bunch of muggle, inbred plastic from many old 90s kit sprues filling the top. It took a few days for it to melt. This was really too thick when I started so I had to add in a bit more Testors to make it a bit thinner. It was almost like tooth paste. So I got it a little bit thinner to flow out a bit more and I think came out to be a 50/50 mix.

One thing I noticed since I looked at some videos that mentioed it, was the smell?? Yikes! It does take days to cure like so many have commented, but this really stinks. I have to put the fan on to even stay in my lab to continue a build. Does it work any better than TET. I dont know...again, Im a returning old modeler. Im still on my 1st bottle of TET. Does this help out this post? I dont really think so. What do I use to apply it... A toothpick

1) - Is old wine good.. yes

2) - Is old TPC Goo good.. I have a few models using it and its fine.

3) - Is TET Goo good.. Im sure it works great.

4) - Did I help this post... no

Hmm I see it looks to be a bit of a DARK green color? Look at the plastic frame I made out of sprues and look at the color of my Goo?? It even looks old!

You, sir, are of impure blood..and so is your spru goo
I had a ton of nice white Evergreen stuff as I have been hacking away making the Shuttle tower so had tons of off cuts saved
Thusly I have my purity intact, well mostly

[Lysus]

Although I have tried it a few times in the past; I no longer do.... due to many factors...
The gaps are getting almost non-existent in most kits I work on now a days...

and since switched to this product.



The same idea I guess... it loves TET to massaged into shape while curing.

as someone mentioned above.... I found that not all styrene are equal and had some weird melting effect on some
kits... and found it took quite a while to cure hard...

just keep that in mind.

I do actually have that stuff and when I need it, it works pretty well. I find that it takes a bit more fuss than I'd like when it needs to fill a larger gap (one not so large you'd use a thicker filler, but one too small for a single application).

I'm considering trying the goo in part out of curiosity; as for a long cure time my life is such lately that arranging long stretches between bench time isn't a worry I have... sigh.

[Nev]

I use mr dissolved putty for cast textures works great

[DrSprue]

You, sir, are of impure blood..and so is your spru goo
I had a ton of nice white Evergreen stuff as I have been hacking away making the Shuttle tower so had tons of off cuts saved
Thusly I have my purity intact, well mostly

[schweinhund227]

Although I have tried it a few times in the past; I no longer do.... due to many factors...
The gaps are getting almost non-existent in most kits I work on now a days...

and since switched to this product.



The same idea I guess... it loves TET to massaged into shape while curing.

as someone mentioned above.... I found that not all styrene are equal and had some weird melting effect on some
kits... and found it took quite a while to cure hard...

just keep that in mind.

I do actually have that stuff and when I need it, it works pretty well. I find that it takes a bit more fuss than I'd like when it needs to fill a larger gap (one not so large you'd use a thicker filler, but one too small for a single application).

I'm considering trying the goo in part out of curiosity; as for a long cure time my life is such lately that arranging long stretches between bench time isn't a worry I have... sigh.

its true it has its limitations....

as of late I opted to fill holes or gaps with thin strips of styrene... usually, I chose the kits sprues ( color matching ) which I heat up and stretch... like how we make antennas? and shove it in a unwanted hole with lots of Tamiya cement or lay down a few strips of that stuff in a gap and lightly flood the area and get the stretch sprues to melt in place... and once you sand it down, you are sanding plastic... which is great!

Sprue goo has a place in our hobby that's for sure! good luck with your experiments... and have fun!

[Lysus]

Although I have tried it a few times in the past; I no longer do.... due to many factors...
The gaps are getting almost non-existent in most kits I work on now a days...

and since switched to this product.



The same idea I guess... it loves TET to massaged into shape while curing.

as someone mentioned above.... I found that not all styrene are equal and had some weird melting effect on some
kits... and found it took quite a while to cure hard...

just keep that in mind.

I do actually have that stuff and when I need it, it works pretty well. I find that it takes a bit more fuss than I'd like when it needs to fill a larger gap (one not so large you'd use a thicker filler, but one too small for a single application).

I'm considering trying the goo in part out of curiosity; as for a long cure time my life is such lately that arranging long stretches between bench time isn't a worry I have... sigh.

its true it has its limitations....

as of late I opted to fill holes or gaps with thin strips of styrene... usually, I chose the kits sprues ( color matching ) which I heat up and stretch... like how we make antennas? and shove it in a unwanted hole with lots of Tamiya cement or lay down a few strips of that stuff in a gap and lightly flood the area and get the stretch sprues to melt in place... and once you sand it down, you are sanding plastic... which is great!

Sprue goo has a place in our hobby that's for sure! good luck with your experiments... and have fun!

Having fun is all I really ask.

I agree about the strip styrene for wide gaps, it's a tad more work at first but so much easier to finish up. Done it a couple times now and happy with the result both times.

[digger303]

Large amounts of goo do take a while to set properly, that is a disadvantage.
If filling small gaps such as in 2 halve of a cylinder then instead of using tet then going back to fill. I small amount of goo along the seam then clamp together and will squeeze out .When it has mostly dried start the trimming . Very little sanding is required.
Also on the inside of curved parts where there is large gaps it can be filled with copious amounts of goo....wait 2 days( easy for me ). This fills any gaps or makes the gap smaller and adds reinforcing into a difficult area.

[SteelScooter]

I used a 1/4 full bottle of TET that had gone grey anyhow and just put in the same amount of BB sized chopped up runners. You can then add more to your personal preference.

[Twokidsnosleep]

I am glad Lysus put up this question
I have made mine and used it a couple times to fill a gap, join two lengths of rod that were otherwise too short and cement items to an irregular surface
Been great so far

[digger303]

One other disadvantage, even if your careful thin spider webs of goo can stick everywhere. However it does come off easy.

[smokeriderdon]

Interesting, but Perfect Plastic putty and Mr Surfacer cover most everything I run across.