Stokesy's Tiger 1 (Early) Production

[TheNordus]

Looking nice, I do vastly prefer building friuls to normal link-by-link or length-by-length tracks. It's super fast to me and less hassle. I somehow feel like it can't take up to 7 hours to build the tracks though, or maybe time just flies while I'm building them? I've never checked the clock while doing Friuls. Might do it with my Tiger 1 mid that I'm hoping to start soon.

[Tomcat64]

Great to see you back at the bench mate, and those tracks look fantastic!

[Stokesy44]

Wow those tracks look so real. back Stokesy.

I reckon I would find that quite therapeutic too, at least for a while! It'll definitely be worth it though, they're looking great

Great to see you back at the bench mate, and those tracks look fantastic!

Thanks Guys, its good to be back in the land of the plastic fantastics. Its been too long, my fault, nobody else's. Glad I can still count on the usual suspects to egg me on in all the silliness though

Looking nice, I do vastly prefer building friuls to normal link-by-link or length-by-length tracks. It's super fast to me and less hassle. I somehow feel like it can't take up to 7 hours to build the tracks though, or maybe time just flies while I'm building them? I've never checked the clock while doing Friuls. Might do it with my Tiger 1 mid that I'm hoping to start soon.

I've seen some really nice link and length tracks. Tamiya do some beautiful ones that come with their Jagdtiger and Elefant kits with the upper length sections showing built in sag - really superb when painted. As for the time it takes, see below, my friend

So where were we?

I have to admit, the jury was out after yesterday's efforts, purely on the issue of time spent. However, I must have put my Speedy Gonzales underpants on this morning because I finished the first side of the tracks in a little over an hour this afternoon. Well pleased, the increase in tempo was down to simply being more organised in my approach. I took the remaining 56 links and moved the process forward in stages (like a normal person would ). I sanded them all for burrs, then drilled them all out then wired them together, much more straight forward, I didn't have to keep switching tools and mucking about with things.

Quite embarrassing really, yesterday must have looked like the production line at British Leyland in the 1970s

Anyway, faith has been restored, much happier now, one set of boots done





And they look nice



Man alive, they look REALLY nice

[TheNordus]

Looking nice, I do vastly prefer building friuls to normal link-by-link or length-by-length tracks. It's super fast to me and less hassle. I somehow feel like it can't take up to 7 hours to build the tracks though, or maybe time just flies while I'm building them? I've never checked the clock while doing Friuls. Might do it with my Tiger 1 mid that I'm hoping to start soon.

I've seen some really nice link and length tracks. Tamiya do some beautiful ones that come with their Jagdtiger and Elefant kits with the upper length sections showing built in sag - really superb when painted. As for the time it takes, see below, my friend

Nice job! The main reason I prefer Friuls over Link and Length tracks is that L&Ls tend to break apart far easier than friuls, and it can be hard to get correct tension/length on plastic tracks. You know, when glue gets involved, things get a lot more permanent than just pinning metal links together with some wire. Of course I still do use mostly plastic ones because Friuls are so expensive and there are a lot of good-looking ones, but you just can't beat Friuls in ease-of-build, except maybe with rubber band tracks.

[Kevthemodeller]

Looking good mate I don't think you can beat Friuls they're a bit hard work at first but once you've got the hang of it they're breeze. Are you going to burnish them or just paint?

[Tomcat64]

Oh - the old "wrong underpants" excuse again Mr Stokes?


Those tracks look absolutely superb mate - just out of interest how much does one complete track run weigh on that beast?

[Stokesy44]

Looking good mate I don't think you can beat Friuls they're a bit hard work at first but once you've got the hang of it they're breeze. Are you going to burnish them or just paint?

Thanks mate. They'll be primed then painted before weathering. No burnishing liquids for me, I know they look great but I'm spending enough money right now without any more bespoke products. I'm also wary of them re being hazardous too. Don't know enough about them and I'm easily prone to a bit of anxiety now and then so best to do without them for now.

[Stokesy44]

Oh - the old "wrong underpants" excuse again Mr Stokes?


Those tracks look absolutely superb mate - just out of interest how much does one complete track run weigh on that beast?

Cheers. Yeah, the day before I must have been wearing my 'Make a prat of myself' specials

As for weight, they are really heavy, much more so than the Kaizens I had on a previous Tiger. I reckon they will sit beautifully once they're on the beasty.

[Quax]

I just weighed two KTs one with DS and one with ATL-22 (6 parts to every pair of links... horrific ) The DS is 182g and the fruils are 375g (including the supplied metal drive wheels) all weighed on my daughter's drug dealing scales ( she says weightwatchers but I'm not sure )
Paul

[Quax]

Meant to add it looks great Stokesy!
Paul

[aur0ra145]

That looks really good! I may need to try those tracks out

[Stokesy44]

I just weighed two KTs one with DS and one with ATL-22 (6 parts to every pair of links... horrific ) The DS is 182g and the fruils are 375g (including the supplied metal drive wheels) all weighed on my daughter's drug dealing scales ( she says weightwatchers but I'm not sure )
Paul

Man, that is what I call suffering for your art! As for the scales...

Meant to add it looks great Stokesy!
Paul

That looks really good! I may need to try those tracks out

Cheers guys. As for trying out the tracks, they're not cheap and they take some time, the outcome is pretty decent though

[Stokesy44]

Thought I'd have a look at the tracks on the tank before I started on the second set.

I wanted to check I had the number of tracks links correct and that getting them on and off would be ok. I glued the road wheels on but didn't glue the idler and sprocket. I needed to check the positioning of the idler and the sprocket needs to be able to move while the tracks go on and off.

Re the road wheels, I would have painted them separately because of the rubber rims but the build has stalled. I'm sick of waiting for better weather so I can paint. Its not that hard to do the rims once the paint goes down so I thought stuff it, just get on with it.

The track length went on really easily and I joined it up using a longer length of the wire so I can disconnect and remove them when required. Once they were on I checked the idler and tensioned the track until it looked right. I then took the track off and glued the idler in the right place. It actually sits in exactly the position shown in the instructions so I could have just done what was shown.

They do look rather spiffy











I'll have another session with track building tomorrow, feeling impatient now as I want to get on with things.

[TheNordus]

Those tracks look SWEET! I can't wait to start building my own set.

[Stokesy44]

Those tracks look SWEET! I can't wait to start building my own set.

Just seen that you've got a set for your Tiger build. I actually found wearing latex gloves when building them improved the process. My grip on the wire was much less prone to slipping and sliding when I was wiring the links together. I had worried I would lose dexterity but they definitely made the job easier

[Tomcat64]

They really do look the mutt's wotsits mate!

I must cave in and buy myself a set for something in the stash.

[TheNordus]

Those tracks look SWEET! I can't wait to start building my own set.

Just seen that you've got a set for your Tiger build. I actually found wearing latex gloves when building them improved the process. My grip on the wire was much less prone to slipping and sliding when I was wiring the links together. I had worried I would lose dexterity but they definitely made the job easier

Thanks for the hint, I should get to the habit of wearing gloves because I think the tracks have some lead in them. My usual process is to just take the links out of the bag without cleaning them any and start stringing them together. I use pliers to push the wire down into the links which usually clears any blockages in their "channels" or "holes" without me having to go out and buy a tiny drill bit. Occasionally this leads to the wire bending but I just clip the bent part off and try again or take another track from the bag, there's usually plenty of spares.

They really do look the mutt's wotsits mate!

I must cave in and buy myself a set for something in the stash.

I haven't built a set them myself yet, but I think Panzer IV/III tanks would most benefit from having Friuls.

[Tomcat64]

I must cave in and buy myself a set for something in the stash.

I haven't built a set them myself yet, but I think Panzer IV/III tanks would most benefit from having Friuls.

Hmm interesting I was thinking of something more Panthery in shape, but I guess you're thinking about the sag along the top of the return rollers?

[Stokesy44]

I must cave in and buy myself a set for something in the stash.

I haven't built a set them myself yet, but I think Panzer IV/III tanks would most benefit from having Friuls.

Hmm interesting I was thinking of something more Panthery in shape, but I guess you're thinking about the sag along the top of the return rollers?

Definitely worth looking at for PZ III and IV, especially if you leave the skirts off the IV. The Kaizens I bought for my JP IV worked a treat.

[Tomcat64]

Definitely worth looking at for PZ III and IV, especially if you leave the skirts off the IV. The Kaizens I bought for my JP IV worked a treat.

Yep I used the Kaizens on my StuG after seeing you use them on your JP-IV and got the sag perfect at the first attempt

[Stokesy44]

Yep I used the Kaizens on my StuG after seeing you use them on your JP-IV and got the sag perfect at the first attempt

[TheNordus]

I must cave in and buy myself a set for something in the stash.

I haven't built a set them myself yet, but I think Panzer IV/III tanks would most benefit from having Friuls.

Hmm interesting I was thinking of something more Panthery in shape, but I guess you're thinking about the sag along the top of the return rollers?

Panthers are a good candidate for it too, basically anything that has sag and hollow guide horns.

[HIghAltitudeScale]

I do like how you made that build look so realistic. Nice work!

[digger303]

That sag looks like me on a Sunday morning
I like the build

[Stokesy44]

That sag looks like me on a Sunday morning
I like the build

Looks like me EVERY morning mate!

[Stokesy44]

I do like how you made that build look so realistic. Nice work!

Thanks Bret, it certainly makes you work for it! When the kit came out I heard it described as the best Tiger I on the market. The detail and engineering is superb, if you can navigate the usual minefield that is Dragon’s instructions, it builds up beautifully. Just want to finish the tracks and get some paint on it now

[Stokesy44]

Really got the hang of the Friuls now

Did the left side tracks in about 2 hours, fitted them on to the sprocket and on they went. Very pleased with the result.

















May even get to put some primer down tomorrow

[TommyKillander]

Excellent work!

It looks absolutely amazing (th)


Tommy

[TheNordus]

Just one quick question, not intended as a criticism: did you forget to put the bow machine gun on? I think dragon kits had the machine gun so you had to insert it from the inside of the front plate.
Looking really swell though, makes my Tamiya Tiger that I'm working on look like a toy in comparison.

[Stokesy44]

Just one quick question, not intended as a criticism: did you forget to put the bow machine gun on? I think dragon kits had the machine gun so you had to insert it from the inside of the front plate.
Looking really swell though, makes my Tamiya Tiger that I'm working on look like a toy in comparison.

Thank you Sir

The bow gun builds up into a nice assembly but I knew I would knock it off during the build or the paint phase. I plan to cut the gun in half and CA glue it in the mount right at the end of the build. It’s what I normally do regardless of whether the gun is installed from the inside or just goes on as a stub on the external face of the mount.

[Kevthemodeller]

Great job on the tracks mate let the painting begin

[Tomcat64]

Don't those tracks hang beautifully! They really look awesome mate and well worth the time you've put into them

[DrSprue]

Wow that build came out really nice!

[demarcation]

Looks superb. Top job sir!

[Stokesy44]

Great job on the tracks mate let the painting begin

Don't those tracks hang beautifully! They really look awesome mate and well worth the time you've put into them

Wow that build came out really nice!

Looks superb. Top job sir!

Thanks Guys, its certainly been a beautiful kit to work on. Its perfect for me as I'm no good at scratch building and loads of PE is really beyond me. To get a kit where the quality of the plastic and the engineering of the build is of such high quality - its exactly how I want to spend my bench time.

I'm not a fan of brand new releases from Dragon because I find they are just too expensive. But I'm very much into picking them up at model shows after a couple of years on release, where great deals can be had. Or in this case, picking it up second hand right here from a seller on ISM. I've been very fortunate in the last year or so to be able to get my hands on 4 really nice Dragon kits, 2 at model shows, this Tiger and the recent Magach which was a win in the monthly prize drawers.

I'm always looking for a good deal - got to have some money leftover for beer and women!

[Quax]

the recent Magach which was a win in the monthly prize drawers.

You have to wear special drawers to win a prize? Thats where I've been going wrong, I'll change mine more than once a month from now on!
Looks like you've spent all your money on beer and women and not paint.... actually you may have a point..

Paul

[Stokesy44]

the recent Magach which was a win in the monthly prize drawers.

You have to wear special drawers to win a prize? Thats where I've been going wrong, I'll change mine more than once a month from now on!
Looks like you've spent all your money on beer and women and not paint.... actually you may have a point..

Paul

You got me there mate, fair and square! I'm usually quite good with the wordy stuff, feel like I've let myself down here! Reminded me of a very funny Mitchell and Webb sketch.



And as for the lack of paint, I have to hold my hands up to that one too. Sadly the beer's all gone and as for the women.....

But all is not lost. For the first time today I thought the temperature is definitely up, its time to get the kitchen window open, throw out the spray booth hose and fire up the compressor. I've got 2 tanks to paint then I need to start work on an aircraft. Need to get my aviation juices flowing in preparation for the Bomber SIG come Spring.

[Stokesy44]

FINALLY!

Received a raven from the citadel this morning - Spring is here

Set up the booth, threw the hose out the window, fired up the compressor and loaded up the good old H&S. Its good to be making a mess again. Its been nearly 2 months since I painted anything, thanks a lot chest infection, thanks a lot winter, I beat you in the end though, didn't I eh?

Anyway, back to the serious stuff. Primer went down beautifully as normal, the self levelling magic compensating for my lack of skill as usual! First time spraying at 30psi. I realised after reading several posts on priming that I had been using too low a pressure, hence a lot of tip dry. Still had a bit today but, overall, felt much better.











The tracks will get a layer of flat black or burnt iron next, not sure which one yet. Priming was a little patchy but the track colours and weathering will fix all that. Overall, they look ok for now.



I don't particularly enjoy priming, I find paint sprays much better than primer and there's no creativity with priming. Its just keep your finger down till the darn thing turns black then onto the next bit - Yawn

Now that I'm up and running again, I am really looking forward to getting the base colours down.

[TheNordus]

D'oh, I wish I'd read this post before using my Vallejo primer at 20 psi. That stuff clogged my brush up all nice and proper.
I tend to paint my tracks in a dark reddish brown (because I heard that's what they used to prime their tracks) and then drybrush metal on top of that.

[Stokesy44]

D'oh, I wish I'd read this post before using my Vallejo primer at 20 psi. That stuff clogged my brush up all nice and proper.
I tend to paint my tracks in a dark reddish brown (because I heard that's what they used to prime their tracks) and then drybrush metal on top of that.

Thanks for the advice Sir. Saw Andy from Andy's Hobby HQ on YouTube use a similar red-brown colour for his tracks. I'll have to come up with a custom mix but I think I know the colour I need now.

As for primer pressure, I'm certain the increase in psi did make a difference. Also, a lot of people say the Ultimate (Badger) primer is less prone to clogging than the Vallejo product. Sometimes it can be just hype or sales talk but a lot of guys who have used both have come down firmly against Vallejo. The first primers I used were Vallejo and I can definitely see the difference - even with my relative lack of experience.

[TheNordus]

D'oh, I wish I'd read this post before using my Vallejo primer at 20 psi. That stuff clogged my brush up all nice and proper.
I tend to paint my tracks in a dark reddish brown (because I heard that's what they used to prime their tracks) and then drybrush metal on top of that.

Thanks for the advice Sir. Saw Andy from Andy's Hobby HQ on YouTube use a similar red-brown colour for his tracks. I'll have to come up with a custom mix but I think I know the colour I need now.

As for primer pressure, I'm certain the increase in psi did make a difference. Also, a lot of people say the Ultimate (Badger) primer is less prone to clogging than the Vallejo product. Sometimes it can be just hype or sales talk but a lot of guys who have used both have come down firmly against Vallejo. The first primers I used were Vallejo and I can definitely see the difference - even with my relative lack of experience.

I bought a set of AK colours for a King Tiger and it came with a bottle of track primer. I'm addicted to the stuff, too bad it's gonna be a pain to buy anywhere.
I'm highly unimpressed with the Vallejo primer. It tends to come off in sheets (like pulling off liquid mask, I imagine) if you put any abrasive force on it. I'll use this one bottle and not buy any more I think.

[Tomcat64]

Great to see you making progress again mate - everything looks so damned good in black primer!

[digger303]

D'oh, I wish I'd read this post before using my Vallejo primer at 20 psi. That stuff clogged my brush up all nice and proper.
I tend to paint my tracks in a dark reddish brown (because I heard that's what they used to prime their tracks) and then drybrush metal on top of that.

Thanks for the advice Sir. Saw Andy from Andy's Hobby HQ on YouTube use a similar red-brown colour for his tracks. I'll have to come up with a custom mix but I think I know the colour I need now.

As for primer pressure, I'm certain the increase in psi did make a difference. Also, a lot of people say the Ultimate (Badger) primer is less prone to clogging than the Vallejo product. Sometimes it can be just hype or sales talk but a lot of guys who have used both have come down firmly against Vallejo. The first primers I used were Vallejo and I can definitely see the difference - even with my relative lack of experience.

I bought a set of AK colours for a King Tiger and it came with a bottle of track primer. I'm addicted to the stuff, too bad it's gonna be a pain to buy anywhere.
I'm highly unimpressed with the Vallejo primer. It tends to come off in sheets (like pulling off liquid mask, I imagine) if you put any abrasive force on it. I'll use this one bottle and not buy any more I think.

I gave my 3 bottles of primer away....couldn't stand the stuff.

[Stokesy44]

I bought a set of AK colours for a King Tiger and it came with a bottle of track primer. I'm addicted to the stuff, too bad it's gonna be a pain to buy anywhere.

Thanks mate, could you post a pic of the primer colour so I can try and duplicate it please?

[Stokesy44]

I gave my 3 bottles of primer away....couldn't stand the stuff.

I still have mine, I used it to paint the stand for my 1/48 X-Wing. It was a white-cream colour like the kit plastic so it really needed painting. I wouldn't use the primer on an actual kit again though.

[TheNordus]

I bought a set of AK colours for a King Tiger and it came with a bottle of track primer. I'm addicted to the stuff, too bad it's gonna be a pain to buy anywhere.

Thanks mate, could you post a pic of the primer colour so I can try and duplicate it please?

Sure, here you go:



The colour is A.MIG-024 Dark Tracks, not AK colours as I originally thought. The text on the labels of these bottles really wore off fast! I also used this on my Friuls in the build log of my Tiger 1.

[Stokesy44]

The colour is A.MIG-024 Dark Tracks, not AK colours as I originally thought. The text on the labels of these bottles really wore off fast! I also used this on my Friuls in the build log of my Tiger 1.

Thanks for posting the pic. I've a good idea re the colour now

[Stokesy44]

Tamiya XF60 Dark Yellow for the base colour.

I'm a bit disappointed with my paintwork. The coverage is fine but there is a little roughness in the paint's texture in places - proof of my lack of experience with airbrushing. I'm still spraying too hard and or too far away, I think some of the paint is drying before it hits the surface of the kit. Its not too much of a problem with a tank but I will need to up my skills when I work on an aircraft - which is next up.













I used Tamiya XF64 Red Brown cut with black on the tracks. The camera on my phone has washed out the colour a little but I am pleased with the result. I'll varnish them tomorrow then I can get started on the rust effects.







Nice to get some progress under my belt again

[Tomcat64]

Paintwork looks good to me mate, but you're definitely right about armour being more forgiving on these things than planes are.

[Quax]

Looks great so far Stokesy!
Paul