Fujimi vs Tamiya; Where to start

[PilotMM]

Hello ISM!

So like much of you I use to love building models when I was younger and now am looking to get back into it. I have been playing/dabbling with scale RC and want to build some static builds. I have a ton of questions but thought this would be a good starting point.


Which kit is better for a novice builder? I have experience with painting (rattle can but seriously considering picking up an AB) and following instructions but decals make me nervous. When I was a teenager I wasn't great with them but didn't know about decal solution (already in my basket). So I am looking at a Tamiya Porsche or the Fujimi Ford GT mkII. Thoughts?


As an aside I want to say THANK YOU to Paul because his car build videos have been GREAT. I am at video number 5 and I already feel much more confident in body prep work and I haven't even touched any plastic yet.


Thanks
-M

[Paul]

Hello ISM!

So like much of you I use to love building models when I was younger and now am looking to get back into it. I have been playing/dabbling with scale RC and want to build some static builds. I have a ton of questions but thought this would be a good starting point.


Which kit is better for a novice builder? I have experience with painting (rattle can but seriously considering picking up an AB) and following instructions but decals make me nervous. When I was a teenager I wasn't great with them but didn't know about decal solution (already in my basket). So I am looking at a Tamiya Porsche or the Fujimi Ford GT mkII. Thoughts?


As an aside I want to say THANK YOU to Paul because his car build videos have been GREAT. I am at video number 5 and I already feel much more confident in body prep work and I haven't even touched any plastic yet.


Thanks
-M

Glad you like the videos mate, i would stick with Tamiya as they are nice easy builds, Fujimi can be troublesome. Fire ahead with the questions too

[Twokidsnosleep]

Agreed. Start with a Tamiya, pretty much fall together

Fujimi does have some tempting topics that Tamiya doesn't cover
Just be prepared for the engineering in a Fujimi kit to be not as great, so the fitment is more difficult
That being said, the Fujimi Enthusiast kits are super detailed and better than their regular ones.

[PilotMM]

Paul-
Thanks for the reply! Ok first question I have quick is about 2k Clear. It looks like I cannot get the one you recommend in your videos but Splash clear I can. My question is (and maybe I just haven't made it far enough in your video series yet to find the answer) after the clear cures do sand it down with super fine grit paper, like 1500-3000 grit before polishing? I have seen a lot of other people suggest that sanding it down and then polishing yields better results. If you sand the clear a bit do you run the risk of sanding off decals? I imagine so.

So my favorite subject is not in the current Tamiya line up. This is the Fujimi I was thinking about Ford GT mkII. My kid really wants me to make the Polar Lights version so maybe I will build that, see how things go and then do a Tamiya build before moving on to the Fujimi.


Thanks for all the answers so far.
-M

PS Twokidsnosleep I really enjoy your builds too! Thanks for the info

[PilotMM]

One more question. I plan on using Tamiya rattle cans to start before getting an AB. If I use TS13 for clear coat duties should that be sanded and then polished for a high gloss or just polished?

-M

[Lysus]

One more question. I plan on using Tamiya rattle cans to start before getting an AB. If I use TS13 for clear coat duties should that be sanded and then polished for a high gloss or just polished?

-M

I can't speak to the polish bit (I'm sure Paul has some vids on achieving a high shine to a car build - as I recall a good, smooth surface is key to a high gloss finish) BUT about the rattle can...

Make sure you take your time. Make nice, even passes starting off the subject, pass over, then end just after. Don't stop over a spot or you can flood it quickly. Try to give it a light layer each time and then observe the result. It will take a few passes to get to the shine you want but don't try to get it in one go, you'll overdo it, I guarantee it.

[PilotMM]

Make sure you take your time. Make nice, even passes starting off the subject, pass over, then end just after. Don't stop over a spot or you can flood it quickly. Try to give it a light layer each time and then observe the result. It will take a few passes to get to the shine you want but don't try to get it in one go, you'll overdo it, I guarantee it.

Thanks Lysus. My concern is about getting the orange peel finish. It seems to me that I get that when I don’t put down a good tack coat and then just layer it up. After watching some of Paul’s videos it seem like a good strategy would be to give it an even tack coat, let dry for 5 minutes, a light wet coat, let dry for 5 minutes, and then a wet coat when using a rattle can. Using caution to not overspray and cause flooding. Does the Tamiya Clear not have a leveling agent like Splash Colors?

Please chime in if I am not on the right track.

-M

[Dougboy]

Fujimi kits are hit and miss depending on which kit and even down to which version of the kit you're building. Having an intricately detailed kit with various fitment issues is quite frustrating (like trying to run before learning to walk).

With TS13 from the can, I find it crucial to spray it close to the subject while moving fast across the surface, creating a "wet and thin" layer.

Any spray distance further than 4-5 inches and you risk the paint particles drying out before hitting the surface and reducing the paint's leveling effect. Keep the distance constant and parallel to the subject, adjust the thickness of the coats by adjusting the speed of your pass. Its really trial and error. I'd suggest do a few other builds first....get the hang of the spray can before tackling your "favorite" subject.

[PilotMM]

With TS13 from the can, I find it crucial to spray it close to the subject while moving fast across the surface, creating a "wet and thin" layer.

Any spray distance further than 4-5 inches and you risk the paint particles drying out before hitting the surface and reducing the paint's leveling effect. Keep the distance constant and parallel to the subject, adjust the thickness of the coats by adjusting the speed of your pass. Its really trial and error. I'd suggest do a few other builds first....get the hang of the spray can before tackling your "favorite" subject.

Thanks Doughboy I put in a huge order today and plan on trying it on some old kits that I had from childhood laying around. I have two bodies that are missing parts from decades ago. Since this tread has kind of morphed; can you spray TS13 over decals and then polish clear to get a high-gloss finish? I planned on doing the wet-sanding method with 1500-3000 grit paper.

I planned on trying it with those kits I found but I am afraid the decals are not going to make it (fingers crossed).

I will say I did order the Tamiya '88 Porsche Turbo! I plan on painting it in TS52 Candy Lime Green. My hope is its close to Lizard Green.

Thanks so far for everything on this site. You guys really offer a wealth of knowledge
-M

[Dougboy]

Search the internet and 90% of people will tell you how TS13 is not decal-friendly. I've used it twice building up very very thin layers over newer decals and I had no issues. With older delicate decals... all bets are off.

I've since switched to Mr. Topcoat and it produces the same great result as TS13 without the decal-destroying anxiety.

[PilotMM]

Thanks DougBoy.

Is this the stuff your talking about? Mr. Topcoat It says its Polycarbonate spray, I thought that was for Lexan. It has no effect on Acrylics?

You have me a little nervous now

I have heard this work good too. Krylon Super gloss Thoughts?

-M

[Dougboy]

Thats the one. Although the one you linked is semi-gloss. I think you might want the gloss one instead.