Airbrushing Clear none 2K Question

[PilotMM]

Hello all!

Ok I am ready to start building my next project but I ran into a little hitch and want to ask the group before I start. I plan on building the Fujimi 1966 Ford GT40 MkII next and because it is my favorite car, I want to try my best.

So for practice, I found an old body from an incomplete kit that I have had since childhood. It's a Chezoom, essentially a slammed Chevy Belair. My Ford GT40 is going to be black so I thought that I would paint it black as well. Again, I want to make sure I am 100% ready for this build .

So Tamiya X1 black mixed 50/50 with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. It came out super smooth and already had a GREAT gloss sheen to it.
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I had a few dust motes that I gently sanded down with 3000 grit wet paper. Then I laid down the clear. Here is where my questions come up. The only experience I have with clear is TS-13 from a rattle can. I have got beautiful results with it. And it takes polish nice.
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TS-13 example

Now that I have an airbrush I want to spray clear down. The only clear I have is Mr. Color C46 gloss clear. I mixed it up 2:1 thinner to clear and laid it down. Sprayed at 15PSI here are my results.
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There is a little bit of orange peel along the bottom of the car because I don't think I laid the clear down even enough down there. The rest of the car looks great.
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Pretty good BUT not the high gloss mirror finish I was hoping for. Plus I had 1-2 dust specks. No biggie I thought, I pulled out my 3000 grit again and gently wiped it down. It removed the dust spot and of course, left the roof a little dull but super smooth. I thought I would take my scratch remover polish, which I have used on TS-13 with great results using the same technic, and polished it down.

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Untitled by M M

You can still see the scratch marks. Now thinking about this maybe I didn't give the clear enough time to cure? but I sprayed it this morning and didn't do my sand/polish routine until late tonight. Here is the other peculiarity, once I noticed that the polish was not removing the scratches on the roof I decided to try polishing the hood without sanding it down first. It polished to a very nice gloss but has a few tiny circular scratches.

Down the road, I want to use 2K because it seems like the epoxy clears are more resilient if sprayed right. In the meantime, I would like to use what I have and learn how to use it.

In summation, my questions are: Should I have let the clear dry/cure longer before polishing? Is Mr. Hobby Clear a little softer than Tamiya TS-13? Right out of the can my TS-13 had a higher gloss. Is there a way to get these type of clears (MH C46 or Tamiya X22) to have the same high gloss as TS-13? I really want to get away from using rattle cans. Can you use Tamiya X22 the same way you use TS-13, meaning can you sand it down and polish it back?

Thanks for your help
-M

[Twokidsnosleep]

We talked already but I will answer here. These are my opinions, so don't nobody get their panties knotted if you don't like them (not referring to you Mike, you go commando)
1. Let clear dry as long as you can if you are going to polish it.....like 48 hrs at the least. The longer the better. I don't try to cut and polish 2k as I cannot get it any better than it finishes from the airbrush
2.Probably. none of those bottled versions are as hard as the 2k stuff
3. No those will only give that mid gloss look IMHE. That is a good shine, but not a 2k shine
4.I wouldn't as can't get layers thick enough to not burn through and if you do, you have filled up all your surface detail with clear

You dance with the devil with clear coats.
Not wet enough and it can make the surface rough, bumpy or orange peeled. Too wet and you can get runs, eat decals alive and fill your surface details.
There are safety and ventilation recommendations you should follow
Make sure you have good mixture control filters on the airbrush to avoid contamination and a safe dust free place to put the body to dry for as long as possible

[niro750]

Way too early to polish imo. I'd be leaving it for a few days, especially if it's a thick coat or a few coats.

I usually go to 12000 grit but I don't recommend starting at below 4000 as it's hard to get the scratches out, especially with clear on black or dark shades. You need a super fine polish compound after using 12000 grit. A medium or heavy will possibly cause swirl marks as they can cut heavier than the 12k grit. The heavy certinly does in my experience. I now go straight to tamiya finish compound after a 12k grit sand.

[Kevthemodeller]

I've had really good results with Mr Color GX100 Super Clear III. The below links show the finish I achieved with just airbrushing, it hasn't been rubbed down or any polishing just a simple wax as I remember, I had no issues with decals either.
Gulf Porsche and GSX-R
I used a mixture of Mr Hobby Thinner and Levelling Thinner, this speeds up the drying time. The first mist coat 50/50 of each thinner left until touch dry about 10 mins then another with 30/70, another 10mins and a wet coat 20/80. I'm sure if I rubbed it down and polished it it would be very close to 2k.

I'm not saying it's as good as 2k, but it's easier to use in my opinion and it's possible I've got away with not having decal problems. Others I know have used the same method on, Tamiya, Revell, Aoshima and aixfix decals and have also had no issues. If I did need to rub down I wouldn't go under 6000 working down to 12000, yes it would take longer but would leave much lighter surface scratches, easily polished.

[Twokidsnosleep]

I've had really good results with Mr Color GX100 Super Clear III. The below links show the finish I achieved with just airbrushing, it hasn't been rubbed down or any polishing just a simple wax as I remember, I had no issues with decals either.
Gulf Porsche and GSX-R
I used a mixture of Mr Hobby Thinner and Levelling Thinner, this speeds up the drying time. The first mist coat 50/50 of each thinner left until touch dry about 10 mins then another with 30/70, another 10mins and a wet coat 20/80. I'm sure if I rubbed it down and polished it it would be very close to 2k.

I'm not saying it's as good as 2k, but it's easier to use in my opinion and it's possible I've got away with not having decal problems. Others I know have used the same method on, Tamiya, Revell, Aoshima and aixfix decals and have also had no issues. If I did need to rub down I wouldn't go under 6000 working down to 12000, yes it would take longer but would leave much lighter surface scratches, easily polished.

Those are both GREAT clear results

The big risk with them is that the thinner concentrations can eat your decals alive
I did that with GX100 stuff and MLT...I had too much T in the MLT so to speak and boy it wrinkled decals
2K clear won’t do that to decals so it is easier in that sense. Also no polishing afterwards so,lazy me likes that

[PilotMM]

I've had really good results with Mr Color GX100 Super Clear III. The below links show the finish I achieved with just airbrushing, it hasn't been rubbed down or any polishing just a simple wax as I remember, I had no issues with decals either.
Gulf Porsche and GSX-R
I used a mixture of Mr Hobby Thinner and Levelling Thinner, this speeds up the drying time. The first mist coat 50/50 of each thinner left until touch dry about 10 mins then another with 30/70, another 10mins and a wet coat 20/80. I'm sure if I rubbed it down and polished it it would be very close to 2k.

I'm not saying it's as good as 2k, but it's easier to use in my opinion and it's possible I've got away with not having decal problems. Others I know have used the same method on, Tamiya, Revell, Aoshima and aixfix decals and have also had no issues. If I did need to rub down I wouldn't go under 6000 working down to 12000, yes it would take longer but would leave much lighter surface scratches, easily polished.

Kev,
So let me get this right. Mr. Color GX100 Super Clear III thinned 50/50, then the second coat is 30 (thinner?)/70 (Clear), and then the finally is 20 (thinner)/80 (Clear)? Your results speak for them self.


I am glad this thread is getting some tractions.
Niro I think I need to pick up some finer grade papers to sand stuff down. 3000 is the finest I have ATM.


Ultimately I think I am going to go with Splash Clear, it is cheaper than I thought at under $30 for the system. I will just keep the GT40 on the shelf for a bit longer until I can get some and practice clear coating stuff.

-M

[Kevthemodeller]

Sorry mate my first explanation was a bit confusing the ratios refer to the thinner, e.g. 50% GX and 50% thinner broken down 30% Mr Hobby Thinner & 70% Levelling Thinner. Then move to the clear/thinner mix from 50/50, 30/70, 20/80 the higher figure is thinner mix, I hope that makes sense now.

[Paul]

I’ve used most clears and nothing at all comes close to how easy 2k is to use. Plus no risk of ruining decals like gx100 did to
Me and the results are unbeatable too

[Kevthemodeller]

Hi Paul

Yes I'd agree the finish is superior with 2k, what puts me off is the health risks and smell, plus the harder aspect i.e. you've got limited time about 10 mins I think I read. Or am I over doing it?

[Twokidsnosleep]

Hi Paul

Yes I'd agree the finish is superior with 2k, what puts me off is the health risks and smell, plus the harder aspect i.e. you've got limited time about 10 mins I think I read. Or am I over doing it?

i

Fair point
Health more than time issues

I’ve used most clears and nothing at all comes close to how easy 2k is to use. Plus no risk of ruining decals like gx100 did to
Me and the results are unbeatable too

Yep at 20:80 ratio, I wouldn’t want any decals around on the body ; they will get eaten away by the thinner

[Kevthemodeller]

Yep at 20:80 ratio, I wouldn’t want any decals around on the body ; they will get eaten away by the thinner

The key point is that the mix of the two thinners makes the clear dry faster, the first coat being a mist seals the decals. The later coats don't (in my case) effect the decals, which is what the others I've mentioned have experienced too.

[Paul]

Hi Paul

Yes I'd agree the finish is superior with 2k, what puts me off is the health risks and smell, plus the harder aspect i.e. you've got limited time about 10 mins I think I read. Or am I over doing it?

You get over 30 mins working time which is more than enough. Smell is no worse than levelling thinner and asking as you take precautions thevsabe as you shouldvwith any lacquer paint you will be just fine

[Kevthemodeller]

Thanks for this Paul I'll give the 2k a go on my next car build