Afghan era ZSU-23/4 "Шилка"

[RangerNeil]

I know I would break at least one of those guns! Nice work getting it together.

Cheers DB

Started on the track links - 30 down, 60 to go. The links are half the size of the T34's and thus correspondingly "dirtier" in terms of moulding nubs etc. Having to take a file to every single link to get a good fit as well as cleaning the 0.5mm holes out...


I must want my head tested - the links get smaller and smaller....

[digger303]

Sounds like a awful amount of work and sore fingers for premium priced upgrades. Still they do look better than the kit ones by a country mile. Breaking drill bits would have been my worry if I was doing it. It will be most satisfying when you install them and slide that last pin into place.

[BigWall]

Looking at the Friul tracks that came this morning this slip was included. Am I right in thinking its calling for the rear drives to be moved back approx 2.5mm? There is no text for this part, just diagram.
EDIT - looking harder I get the feeling it only applies to the Dragon model??

That looks to be what they're trying to indicate.

[digger303]

Looking at the Friul tracks that came this morning this slip was included. Am I right in thinking its calling for the rear drives to be moved back approx 2.5mm? There is no text for this part, just diagram.
EDIT - looking harder I get the feeling it only applies to the Dragon model??

Yes I agree it's for the dragon kit, but I do read the instructions as wanting the drives to be moved closer together...indented into the body a little. Not that it is of any consequence now.

[Stokesy44]

Metal tracks are a real labour of love. They look great at the end but, man alive, they make you work for it!

[RangerNeil]

Spent most of the day working away on the track links so as of tonight we have 1 side compete and ready for pinning


And side #2 is under way. Taking lessons learnt from the T-34 I am trying an alternative method of assembly. The finished links are being stuck in place onto masking tape and then the tape cutaway around the assembled links. Currently I am working on runs of 40 links this way and we'll see how it goes. If I need to I can break them down into 10 link sections with the stroke of a (sharp) knife.


Once they are both pinned and glued they can go into the burnishing fluid with the T-34 tracks.

[Stokesy44]

There's light at the end of the tunnel. Nice idea with the masking tape.

I hope you can still feel your fingers!

[RangerNeil]

There's light at the end of the tunnel. Nice idea with the masking tape.

I hope you can still feel your fingers!

At the moment - No!! They are kind of numb from holding pointy bits of metal, being rubbed with a file and jabbed with a needle like drill. ! got 60 of the #2 track done then had to give up and let the finger tips recover!!

Did make me wonder though what they would be like in 1/16th scale....

[digger303]

There's light at the end of the tunnel. Nice idea with the masking tape.

I hope you can still feel your fingers!

At the moment - No!! They are kind of numb from holding pointy bits of metal, being rubbed with a file and jabbed with a needle like drill. ! got 60 of the #2 track done then had to give up and let the finger tips recover!!

Did make me wonder though what they would be like in 1/16th scale....

You can see the end coming though and that will spur you on.

[BigWall]

Nice work with the tracks. I don't know if I would have the patience to do two sets at once!

[ChrisLX200]

That's dedication and patience right there, 0.5mm drills are tiny and snap easy. Great job!

[RangerNeil]

Both tracks cleaned up and one track is pinned. This time I followed the instructions and did not drill right through both sides.. I am thinking this was unwise as I keep finding links pulling apart where the pin has only just caught in the other side. I had to do "save" on one links as it was malformed and I never caught it prior to assembly. Only found it when I lifted the track section off the masking tape and it left about a third behind. A spot of superglue and a drop of filler, left to set then filed and drilled saved the day.


The track is on here temporarily - there is a long piece of wire holding the two end together together. I know the rear sprocket is not fitted properly, just in place VERY loosely - but I can't help but think it needs a link taken out. Problem is getting the pins back out.... I might have to scrap the link by cutting it away - we'll see what tomorrow brings. Other than pinning the second track together...


Also found an issue with the drive sprockets provided by Friul - the white metal is VERY thin and they distort without warning. Its the devils own job getting the to open up to the point they fit into the tracks....

[Twokidsnosleep]

I think I know why I don't build tanks now
Yikes that looks tough

[Tomcat64]

Well done for pushing through the CA & Filler to get it as far as you have.

It's a bit late now but going back to the problems you were having getting decent coverage on the white sections I'll often re-prime any white areas with a grey (or white) primer to help with the coverage.

I've not attempted Fruils on anything yet so much respect for getting them that far

[RangerNeil]

Thanks for the nice words folks. They are really appreciated.

Finally finished the second track tonight. I had a brain wave - well more of a memory as I saw something similar in a video on YouTube - and drilled a hole in a wooden block the depth of the length of a pin and used that to slice of pins in batches. It worked well - after a fashion - I had to invert the wood and bang it - hard - to get the pin out once cut. Got there in the end though. I have to say the pinning operation is probably the WORST job going:


I also managed to get 1 link out of track #1 so now I have two equal length tracks ready to go on once the paint is finished and the tracks have been treated. Hopefully tomorrow. Track #2 still needs the ends of the pins sealed with CA but my eyes are too tired tonight after the pinning...

[RangerNeil]

Both the Shilka tracks are now done - ready for a good wash and then soaking in the Burnishing Fluid. Should be able to do that tomorrow - both sets, this and the T34's in one go.



And the drive sprockets are primed ready for the base coat of 4BO Green.

[RangerNeil]

Tracks are now soaking in the Ultimate products Burnishing fluid. I split the bottle between these and the T-34 and topped up with fresh water as per instructions. This is how they look after some 10 minutes (the tracks ARE fully covered by the fluid despite how it may look):


I am going to leave them a few hours, flipping them ever couple of hours, and see how they go. Might have to leave them overnight same as the T-34's

As said on the T-34 thread - the bright spots are where the fluid has yet to take. Hopefully "yet" being the operative word. Again a point to note that I stupidly missed is that if the tracks are assembled the fluid does not take to superglue - which holds the pins together...... So best to soak the links rather than the assembled tracks

[RangerNeil]

So - after roughly 3 hours immersed I am calling the Shilka tracks done. They are rinsed dried and ready to fit. I think I need some rust coloured paint to touch up where the superglue is.....


And flipped:

[Stokesy44]

Nice looking tracks. Well worth the effort

[BigWall]

They definitely came out looking good!

[Kevthemodeller]

Superb tacks Neil, I do like the effect you get with Burnishing fluid

[RangerNeil]

Had the air brush going today to work on the T-34 so I so gave the Shilka's hull and turret a quick blast of the Vallejo #69 Russian green primer. Tomorrow its the dark green for the shadow areas so I will do the T-34 first again then come back to the Shilka. I found mixing the Vallejo paint 50/50 gave the best results from the brush.

[RangerNeil]

Spent time on the Shika today - nice to chop between the two, keeps the mojo bubbling away and not getting stale
Todays job was laying on the 1980's Afghan camouflage scheme... Had great fun with the airbrushes - they'd be spraying fine then without warning the flow would change to a watery consistency that splattered and ran everywhere.. No idea what I was doing wrong!! I think I've recovered 99% of it but - to my eyes it could be better.

[BigWall]

The paint is looking sweet. Nice job!

[Kevthemodeller]

Great looking paint and cammo mate

[Stokesy44]

Great looking paint job

[RangerNeil]

Cannon pod mounted in the turret.....

[digger303]

Got some serious clamping going on there. Like the camo looks good.

[RangerNeil]

Got some serious clamping going on there. Like the camo looks good.

Cheers Digger
The cannon pod did NOT want to go in and stay in so some "persuasion" was required and the turret was too wide for conventional clamps so - block of wood and the old toolmakers clamps did the trick. Today I found out that the pod is not an exact fit and without a fair bit of fettling there was no way this side of hell the turret was going to fit onto the hull. Pod walls had to be filed back to the edge of the turret ring and the elevation gear pieces for the cannon had to be removed and repositions about 1.5 mm back

As the Shilka is nigh on done I spent today finalising the last little bits so tomorrow all I need do is a coat of gloss varnish, get the 3 decals on and then a coat of matt to seal. Then I can decide if I want to try my hand at a bit of weathering..... Still got to create the rubbing spots on the tracks too.

This is how it stands tonight - turret is not clipped in, only sat on the hull and the radar assembly & drive sprockets are still only dry fitted. (I've had to attach the images directly as postimg.cc is having a bad day - I'm getting constant 502 error messages)

Small_Shilka_1.jpg

small_Shilka_2.jpg

[Stokesy44]

That looks a proper cracker

[Twokidsnosleep]

Very cool, I like the camo

Why does it have an inverted turkey roasting pan on top?? Oh wait, it is Russian. Ya

[Kevthemodeller]

Oh yes, well on the way for another super build Neil

[Donkeywalloper]

Wow, Neil, awesome build and thread.
DW

[digger303]

It looks really good and I'm going further imagining what it is going to be like with the weathering. Damn good I'm thinking.
I find the woodless graphite pencils very good for the shine on worn metal. Not expensive either from the cheap dollar shops. Don't drop them though as you can imagine they will break into 2 short bits.
Can't wait for you to add the tracks and dust or mud.

[RangerNeil]

Went to do the decals - all 3 of them - only to find I've run out of gloss varnish.
What I thought was a tin of gloss varnish was actually gloss white - doh!!!! Ordered two aerosols (don't trust myself with an airbrush yet) from Amazon - as I work for them I get a discount and next day delivery free. I say work - at the moment they are paying me to sit at home.
Was tempted to use satin but I am not sure that would have worked so well.
So today its back to the T-34!!

[digger303]

Went to do the decals - all 3 of them - only to find I've run out of gloss varnish.
What I thought was a tin of gloss varnish was actually gloss white - doh!!!! Ordered two aerosols (don't trust myself with an airbrush yet) from Amazon - as I work for them I get a discount and next day delivery free. I say work - at the moment they are paying me to sit at home.
Was tempted to use satin but I am not sure that would have worked so well.
So today its back to the T-34!!

Tamiya X-22 .......50/50, but I airbrush.

[RangerNeil]

OK - pending a bit of weathering which can wait till I am ready to do the T34 as well I am calling this one done.
Whole vehicle has had a coat of satin varnish and the Friul tracks and idlers are on. Hope it gets a thumbs up.

[Casper]

love the camo Neil, great looking Tank

[BigWall]

Very cool!

[digger303]

great result

[Parker]

thumbs. up.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Cool...in a destroying everything in site way

[RangerNeil]

Cool...in a destroying everything in site way

Of course - its Russian - and Soviet Russian at that...