Progress Build of a Holy Grail Model Display-Renwal’s Visible Automobile Chassis and Visible V8 Engine

[Phillip1]

Fellow Modelers,

Renwal, already an established manufacturer of various plastic products, was one of the earliest American companies to begin producing plastic model kits, starting around 1955. The company name comes from the backward spelling of founder Irving Lawner’s last name. Their philosophy was to make unique, niche products instead more mainstream subjects like other plastic model companies. Renwal’s models were never cutting edge quality or highly detailed, but tended to focus on being educational and in many cases featured working/movable parts. By the mid-1960’s Renwal’s kit offerings were wide-ranging and included visible anatomical models, modern naval warships, early aircraft, classic/showcase cars, and modern armor/military equipment. The company went out of business in 1976 and their model tooling molds were purchased by a larger competitor, Revell, Inc.

Although most of Renwal’s kits were very average, they did produce several of the most popular and best-selling plastic models of all-time; including the 1/4 size Visible V8 Engine, 1/5th scale Visible Man/Woman and 1/200 scale Ballistic Nuclear Submarine with a complete interior. These kits were so popular that Revell began re-issuing them under their name in 1977, and have continued to do so (off and on through the years) even up to present day.

One of the most fascinating and impressive models Renwal produced was the 1/4 size Visible Automobile Chassis, released in 1963. In addition to its massive size (37” length X 16” width X 14” height), the finished model had the following features: an electric motor that powered the differential/rear wheels, a working transmission with three gears and reverse, a working steering wheel with gears/linkages to turn the front wheels, a working front wheel spring suspension, a working brake line and a clutch that could be disengaged. Even the box top made the claim it will be “the most impressive model you will ever build”. Meant as a companion to their 1/4 size Visible V8 Engine (released three years earlier) it was very expensive and did not enjoy the tremendous success of the V8. Due to low sales, it was in and out of Renwals’s catalog product line during its run, last appearing in 1973 and even Revell opted not to re-issue it.

Because this kit stopped being produced over 50 years ago and was never made in great numbers, it is extremely rare and HIGHLY VALUED. For many years I knew the Visible Automobile Chassis with a mounted Visible V8 Engine would make a one of a kind display but the cost put it out of reach. However, I recently found an Australian eBay Seller offering a “complete and unbuilt” kit who extended me a 25% reduction off the listed price! I thought this opportunity might not come again so I hit the “buy it now” button (after I got my wife’s approval of course). Due to the timing of the purchase, I was also fortunate enough to avoid the Trump tariffs! Buying a complete and reasonably priced Visible V8 Engine kit on eBay was much easier, as they are fairly common.

There are not many detailed progress builds of this model posted on the Internet, so hopefully this thread will generate interest from people who are familiar with the kit. Since this Progress Build thread consists of two separate models, it will be divided into two sections consisting of PART 1-Visible Automobile Chassis and PART 2-Visible V8 Engine. My goal is to build the model neat and pristine, while trying to have all the working features actually work. Let’s get started with what is in the box and some really cool Renwal advertisements…

(PART 1-VISIBLE AUTOMOBILE CHASSIS)
Figure 001a: Here is the rather plain box art for the kit I have. From the image and text on the box I am fairly certain my kit was manufactured around 1974-1975, shortly before this model and Renwal ceased production.


Figure 001b: This much cooler box artwork was used when the kit was originally issued in 1963 and through most of the 1960’s. Note this image has been beautifully restored by Boxart Den.


Figures 001c through 001d: The first image is a promotional ad made in 1963. The second image are pages from Renwal’s 1964 Product Line Catalog. The $19.95 price back in 1964 was a huge amount for a plastic model!



Figure 001e: Here are the all the parts after being sorted by assembly step. This model has a total of 548 pieces (291 styrene plastic/20 nylon/237 hardware) and is molded in four colors (black/gray/red/white) and clear.


Figure 001f: This image shows a detailed breakdown of the hardware parts.


Figures 001g through 001h: Shown are the kit instructions and a 16 page booklet on the working features of a real automobile chassis.



Figure 001i: Step 1 is the assembly of the chassis frame.


Figures 001j through 001k: Due to the age of the kit all the parts have heavy mold lines, injection pin marks and sink hole marks. Some also have really excessive flashing like the one in the first image. The second image shows the same part after clean up.



Figures 001l through 001n: When this project began, I was not going to paint any parts since they were molded in multiple colors. Instead, a few of them were polished out to a high shine to see how they would look.




Figure 001o: After assembling the frame sides, I was unhappy with the seams lines and decided they needed to be filled and sanded away. This image shows a small section of the progress.


Figure 001p: Here are the assembled and sanded out frame sides. A tape measure is stretched out to provide a better feel for the large length of the model.


Figure 001q: The uneven and spotty color finish of the unpainted black frame parts convinced me they needed to be painted. I now knew I did not want a high gloss or a flat finish, so I split the difference and used Tamiya Semi-gloss Black Acrylic paint. All of the frame parts were painted before assembly and I was really pleased with the uniform satin paint finish.


Figures 001r through 001s: Assembling the frame was much more difficult than I expected due to excessive warping. Multiple paint scratches to the fragile finish were made during handling. The upper front suspension support part was especially bad. While I was forcing the part in place (and waiting of the superglue to set) I actually thought the plastic was going to break under the pressure.



Figure 001t: This image shows the frame after final assembly and getting a nice, last coat of paint. Whew! Hopefully the rest of the build goes together a little easier!


Until next time...

Phillip1

[digger303]

So interesting.
Since your going to add the v8 engine to the chassis will you also add a radiator ?

[Twokidsnosleep]

How cool is that
Hand not ever seen this kit before.
Watching for sure

[cor]

That's a very rare item. It's good you're painting it, the plastic would look a bit iffy. Where will you display it?

[Phillip1]

digger303-I think building the chassis and V8 engine is going to push me to the limit, so no, adding a radiator is not part of the plan.

Twokidsnosleep-Welcome aboard. The chassis was not a big seller so it is not too surprising if a lot of modelers have never heard of it. But your are right, it is cool!

cor-I agree painting it is the way to go. I am am still working out where I will put it when it is finished.

Phillip1

[digger303]

digger303-I think building the chassis and V8 engine is going to push me to the limit, so no, adding a radiator is not part of the plan.

Twokidsnosleep-Welcome aboard. The chassis was not a big seller so it is not too surprising if a lot of modelers have never heard of it think. But your are right, it is cool!

cor-I agree painting it is the way to go. I am am still working out where I will put it when it when finished.

Phillip1

I don't want to push the point too hard, but complete what you are doing and step back a little and reassess. It might not be as hard as you think.
Who knows someone might print one up for you...not me I don't have the skills.

[Phillip1]

digger303-I guess anything is possible at this point!

Phillip1

[MrBowcat]

Interesting kit.

[Phillip1]

Fellow Modelers-Here is the next update.

Figure 002: Step 2 is the assembly of the brake drum plates.


Figure 002a: Here are the parts after being cleaned up.


Figure 002b: The kingpin parts had an awkward spilt and required a lot of filling and sanding to make the assembly smooth.


Figure 002c: A test fitting of one of the brake drum plate assemblies is shown.


Figure 003/004: Steps 3 and 4 are the assembly of the lower and upper suspension arms.


Figure 003/004a: The completed lower and upper suspension arms are shown. Sanding away all the seam lines had to be done while still keeping all the hinge points clean and working.


Figure 005: Step 5 is the mounting of all the parts assembled in steps 2 through 4.


Figure 005a: Here are the last front suspension parts after being cleaned up.


Figure 005b: The kit includes six soft rubber grommets which had turned hard as a rock over the past 50 years and were useless. These grommets are used to provide a connection between two hard pieces of plastic while still allowing a flexible bend between the hard parts. I was not able to find the needed replacement size on the Internet so I made my own. I cut narrow strips of masking tape and wrapped them around the inside connecting point until I had a very snug fit between the inner and outer parts. This was a cheap and easy fix.


Figure 005c: One of the front coil springs is shown in my hand so its size can be noted.


Figure 005d: The coil spring on the right is right out of the box and shows how the factory paint has flaked away and the bare metal can be seen. The coil spring on the left has been re-painted to make it look new.


Figure 005e: I have now decided that nearly all of the kit parts will be painted, with the exception being any moving parts driven by the electric motor (mostly gears and shafts). The colors used will be varied and striking to make the model come across like an attractive educational museum exhibit.


Figure 005f: All of the parts from Steps 2 through 5 are shown after painting and are ready to be assembled.


Figures 005g through 005h: The chassis frame was flipped on its back to lock the suspension arms in place using self-tapping screws. No glue was use here. Note that a large number of self -tapping screws are used on this model and it is critical that every hole is pre-tapped before painting and assembly.



Figures 005i through 005l: The chassis frame was then flipped back to its top side so the suspension arms could be secured on the top. Now when a suspension arm is raised, the tension of the coil spring brings it back down into place just like on a real car. Although not visible in these images, a 3/8” diameter felt bumper was stuck on the inside of each upper suspension arm where it touches the top of the chassis frame to prevent any paint being scratched off the parts.





Figure 005m: Here is a close up view of one of the brake drum plates after final assembly.


Figure 005n: This view shows the stabilizer bar after it was glued in place.


Figure 005o: Here I am holding the frame assembly. Honestly it is awkward to handle and not as ridged as it may look.


Until next time...

Phillip1

[Twokidsnosleep]

My god man
It is three feet long!!! Super neat and tidy work so far
I thought the 1/8 Pocher kits were big

[digger303]

Freaking outstandingly freaking huge....

[Phillip1]

Twokidsnosleep/digger303-Yes, it is a huge model!  Before I purchased this, I had never seen a build up of this model in person (only images and videos on the Internet).  I knew the overall dimensions (37-5/16" or 948mm length X 16" or 406mm width X 14" or 355mm height) but that is different from actually seeing it.  Even when I opened the box and saw all the large individual pieces (i.e., steering wheel, tires, etc.) it made an impression, but when the frame was finally glued together it really hit me how big it was going to be.  So I am thinking that careful handling during assembly will be an extra chore to deal with. 

Phillip1

[Phillip1]

Fellow Modelers-Here is the next update.

Figure 006: Step 6 is the assembly of the lug wrench tool. Some of the steps are complicated and some are very simple like this one


Figure 007: Step 7 is the assembly of the rear springs.


Figure 007a: The leaf spring halves had a long, nasty seam line that had to be removed with a lot of filler and sanding.


Figures 007b: Here are the parts after being cleaned up.


Figure 007c through 007e: One of the leaf springs is painted and assembled to the chassis frame. Note Step 8 is basically a repeat of Step 2 so no images are attached.




Figure 009 through 009b: Step 9 is the assembly of the operating brake cylinder. After reviewing and test fitting all the parts that make up the “working” brake I have listed three reasons it would probably be next to impossible to make it work properly: the yellow rubber material provided to make the flexible brake diaphragms is no longer pliable, the tension of the provided steel spring is much stronger than the connecting plastic parts ability to compress it, and the tolerances of the plastic parts are too crude for the required subtle movements. Therefore, this brake will be built with all the given parts but will be static instead of working.




Figure 010/011: Steps 10 and 11 are the assembly of the differential gears and housing.


Figure 010/011a: Here are the parts after being cleaned up. Extra time and effort were spent removing all flash from the gear teeth.


Figure 010/011b: The kit instructions state to lubricate all gears, bearings, pins, hinges and moving parts. I tested petroleum jelly, WD40 lubricant and Wesson Vegetable oil and found the vegetable oil worked best for this application. This product is messy so when applied only the minimal amount was used.


Figure 010/011c: Here is an image of the assembled differential. In working with the various size gears, I found the large ones with large teeth meshed really well together and did not need any lubrication. However, the small gears with small teeth had a greater tendency to stick and get hung up, which required lubrication.


Figures 010/011d through 010/011e: The kit’s clear parts are really good quality although almost all of them have dings and minor scratches from banging into other plastic parts in a cardboard box for the past 50 years. Novus scratch remover and plastic polish were used to help make them look new again.



Figure 012: Step 12 is the assembly of the rear axle.


Figure 012a: Here are the parts after being cleaned up.


Figure 012b through 012e: These images show the differential and rear axle after final assembly and it reminds me of the TIE fighters from Star Wars. One thing I really like about this kit’s design is all the clear parts mate together with machine screws and hex nuts and no gluing is required.





Until next time...

Phillip1

[Stokesy44]

Stunning work on an amazing kit. You are really bringing it up to a new level

[alphabrimble]

Wow what a great looking kit.

[Phillip1]

Stokesy44-Thanks for the great compliment! I am just trying to keep up with the modeling being done by you and and a good many others on this site!

alphabrimble-Thanks!

Phillip1

[Twokidsnosleep]

Jesus Murphy Brown that thing is gonna be HUGE!!!
Where is it gonna go when finished?

[digger303]

Excellent work cleaning up those springs.

If you find the vegie oil a bit messy or might even dry out, graphite ( which may dirty the clear parts) or silicone powder lubricant from a gun shop ( white in colour) as alternatives.

[cor]

Great work, but come on, you gotta get that brake working.

[Phillip1]

Twokidsnosleep-It is big! Where it is going when finished is still up in the air. I have a couple of model cases big enough to hold it but that will require some major relocation and rearranging of existing models.

digger303-Thanks! And thanks for the alternate lubricant suggestions. Graphite is an interesting idea.

cor-Honestly, I did try to make the brake work but could not. Water is used for the brake fluid and would leak at every part connection. I really think machined pieces are needed to make it work per the instructions.

Phillip1

[RangerNeil]

That is, as everyone has pointed out - HUGE!! Top marks for having the courage to take it on. And for the work to date.

[Phillip1]

RangerNeil-Thanks for the compliment.

digger303-I am not sure about using graphite or silicon powder since I do not want to be able to see any film or residue. However a couple of fellow modelers have pointed out to me that vegetable oils (and regular WD40 lubricant) can become sticky over time, and this was confirmed by the AI feature on my smart phone. However, AI also confirmed WD40 Specialist Silicon lubricant does not become sticky over time.  Since it is fairly inexpensive and readily available at my local hardware stores I will probably be using it.  It comes in an aerosol can but I would spray it into a paint jar and apply it sparingly with a paint brush.

Phillip1

[Phillip1]

Fellow Modelers-Here is the next update.

Figure 013: Step 13 is the assembly of the rear suspension.


Figures 013a through 013e: The first sequence of this step was mounting the differential/rear axle to the leaf springs. Everything fit together well and was connected with machine bolts and hex nuts. A great thing about getting to this point in the build was I could now temporarily mount the chassis frame on the kit’s three stand pieces, which helped protect its paint finish.






Figures 013f through 013h: These images show what the model looks like at this point in the build. Note the two pieces of masking tape on the lower front suspension arms are there to prevent the loose hinged brake plates from swing around and knocking into other parts and scratching the paint finish.




Figures 013i through 013j: Here are the final parts for Step 13 after being cleaned up and then painted.



Figure 013k: Masking tape is being used to roll another homemade grommet into place.


Figures 013l through 013m: Here are upper and lower images of one of the shock absorbers after being assembled in place.



Figure 014: Step 14 is the assembly of the wheels and tires.


Figure 014a: Here are the parts after being cleaned up.


Figure 014b: The nylon tread strips were rolled into a ball with a rubber band and allowed to sit for a while to make sliding them into place easier.


Figure 014c: Once in place, the two ends of the tread were snapped together.


Figure 014d: Next, the other half of the tire was pressed into place.


Figure 014e: The tread strip connection point was bumpy instead of round and smooth, so the area was masked off and the bumpiness sanded away.


Figure 014f: The tread connecting point now looks much better.


Figure 014g: About 1/16” of the white walls outside diameter had to be sanded away for them to properly fit inside the tires.


Figure 014h: This image shows a test fit of all the parts. The instructions state no glue is required for this step but I had to use large amount of slow-set superglue to make the tire halves hold together. This turned into a little bit of a challenge since those parts are nylon plastic and most glues will not bond to this material.


Figure 014i: All four assemblies are shown after test fitting.


Figures 014j through 014k: The inner and outer wheel hubs are shown getting a new color.



Figure 014l: The wheel/tire assemblies are complete. The white wall parts really add a lot to their appearance.


Until next time...

Phillip1

[Stokesy44]

Beautiful work. The work on the chassis and axels and stuff is great.

And then the wheels and tires Beautiful work on the painting. The tread joins are first class

[digger303]

Interesting way of constructing the tyres, not one I had seen before.
You did a great job of sanding the tyres smooth and not inducing any flat spots in the white wall.

[Phillip1]

Stokesy44-Thanks for the kind words!

digger303-Thanks for the compliment. I agree the construction of the tire assembly parts was unusual and awkward. Once I got past sanding the tire tread connection everything fell into place with a nice end result. I think the tire tread pattern used by Renwal looks really cool. The biggest issue was finding a glue that adheres to nylon plastic.

Phillip1

[cor]

You're doing a great job. You must be going through a truckload of paint.

[Phillip1]

cor-Thank You! Painting the chassis frame parts is the only area that has required a lot of paint. I used more than an entire bottle of Tamiya semi-gloss black acrylic (23ml) to get good coverage and also repair all the scratch marks made while assembling the chassis.

Phillip1

[Phillip1]

Fellow Modelers-Here is the next update.

Figure 015: Step 15 is the assembly of the master cylinder.


Figure 015a: Here is another part with very heavy flash.


Figures 015b through 015c: Here are the parts after being cleaned up and then assembled.



Figure 015d: This image shows the master cylinder after being attached to the chassis frame.


Figure 016: Step 16 is the assembly of the brake pedal (Part 1).


Figures 16a through 016b: Here are the parts after being cleaned up, painted and then assembled to the chassis frame.



Figure 017: Step 17 is the assembly of the brake pedal (Part 2).


Figures 017a through 017d: The brake line tubing was run from the master cylinder to the backside of the rear brake drum plate.





Figure 017e: The completed left rear brake drum plate is shown here.


Figure 018: Step 18 is the assembly of the transmission selector rods.


Figure 018a: Here are the parts after being cleaned up and assembled. Note that kit Part 164 was missing from my sample and had to be scratch-built out of Evergreen Styrene. I had to do some guessing on the exact shape. Since these selector rods are critical to shifting gears in the transmission, I guess I will find out later if I did it right.


Figure 019: Step 19 is the assembly of the clutch throw-out bearing.


Figure 019a: Here are the parts after being cleaned up. This is another very simple step.


Figure 020: Step 20 is the assembly of the tie rods.


Figure 020a: Here are the parts after being cleaned up.


Figure 020b: Here are the parts after painting.


Figures 020c through 020e: These images show the tie rods after assembly to the chassis frame and steering arm bushings. The loose connection design of these parts meant that no lubrication was needed at the joints.




Until next time...

Phillip1

[digger303]

Awesome

[Stokesy44]

More stunning work.

[Phillip1]

digger303/Stokesy44-Gentlemen, thanks for the kind words and continued support!

Phillip1

[Phillip1]

Fellow Modelers-Here is the next update.

Figure 021: Step 21 is the assembly of the steering shaft.


Figure 021a: Here are the parts after being cleaned up.


Figure 021b: Here is a close up image of the steering worm that helps turn the wheels.


Figure 021c: This image shows one of the seam lines of the steering shaft in the process of being sanded away.


Figure 021d: The cleaned and polished steering shaft is ready for painting.


Figure 022: Step 22 is the final assembly of the steering shaft.


Figure 022a: Here is another kit part infected with flash and severe injection pin marks.


Figure 022b: Here are the parts after being cleaned up.


Figure 022c: Here are the steering box parts that connect with the worm gear in the steering column.


Figure 022d: A test fit of the worm gear and steering box gear sector was conducted to make sure there was no binding. The connection was very good and no lubrication was required.


Figure 022e: Here are the parts after painting.


Figures 022f through 022l: Here are images of the final steering assembly after installation. For some reason there is a small misalignment between the steering shaft and steering box which causes minor binding when turning the steering wheel. The steering wheel, tie rods and suspension arms all work and turn the brake drum plates like they are supposed to, but there is a little squeaking.








Figure 023: Step 23 is the assembly of the battery/control box.


Figure 023a: Here are the parts after being cleaned up.


Figure 023b through 023f: I decided to paint the top of the battery/control box to make it stand out. These images show the different steps.






Figure 023g: Here is the bottom of the battery/control box after final painting, wiring and assembly. Three “D size batteries are required for operation, which actually provides a good bit of power.


Until next time...

Phillip1

[digger303]

Bigger than ever, your going to have either build a garage or stick it to the ceiling

[Phillip1]

digger303-Yes, each assembly step makes it a little wider and taller!

Phillip1

[Kevthemodeller]

Wow what an amazing kit

[cor]

Nice. What do the batteries drive?

[Phillip1]

Kevthemodeller-Thanks! I agree the Renwal kit is an impressive model.

cor-The batteries (and electric motor) drive the transmission (1st, 2nd, 3rd gear and reverse) and differential/rear axels.

Phillip1

[Phillip1]

Fellow Modelers-Here is the next update.

Figure 024: Step 24 is the assembly of the motor/motor gears/motor housing.


Figure 024a: This one page NOTICE stating the kit contained a couple of defective parts and there were different sets of part numbers that needed to be matched up indicated the Visible Chassis model had gone through several modifications/improvements over the years since it was first introduced. This is not surprising, as a product with a large number of complicated moving parts can always be tweaked upon and improved.


Figure 024b: Here are the parts after being cleaned up.


Figure 024c: The electric motor is fitted into one half of the motor housing. WD40 Specialist Silicon Lubricant was sprayed into the motor openings to make sure it operated at its full potential. (Note: After learning that vegetable oils and regular WD40 lubricant may become sticky over time, I started using WD40 Specialist Silicon spray which is a lubricant that does not become sticky over time.)


Figure 024d: The motor gears did not require much clean up but I did apply a substantial amount of WD40 Specialist Silicon lubrication.


Figure 024e: Here is the completed electric motor assembly.


Figure 025: Step 25 is the assembly of the clutch.


Figure 025a: Here are the parts after being cleaned up. The two friction discs are actually pieces of 100 grit sandpaper.


Figure 025b: In this image the black part that looks like a homemade slingshot is actually a kit supplied tool so the clear Torus Housing can temporarily compress the four springs down on the pressure plate.


Figure 025c: Once the flywheel gear/clutch disc/clutch friction discs were attached by screws, the slingshot tool was removed.


Figures 025d through 025e: These images show the complete assembly. Rotating the gray shaft going through the clear housing is what disengages the clutch.



Figure 026/027/028: Steps 26, 27 and 28 are the assembly of the transmission shafts and gears.


Figure 026/027028a: Once again a lot of time was spent cleaning the flash from the gear teeth to ensure they operated smoothly. Correct location of these gears (even the direction they are facing) is critical for proper operation.


Figures 026/027/028b through 026/027/028c: These images show the test fitting of different shafts inside the clear housing.



Figures 026/027/028d through 026/027/028g: Here are images of the completed transmission assembly. WD40 Specialist Silicon lubrication was not needed on any gears but was applied where the shafts went through the clear housing openings.





Until next time...

Phillip1

[Stokesy44]

Nice work, love seeing the internals to all the stuff we take for granted

[Phillip1]

Stokesy44-Thanks. I agree, working see-through models are super cool!

Phillip1

[digger303]

Watching a gearbox gears operate to me is amazing.

[Stokesy44]

Watching a gearbox gears operate to me is amazing.

You have got to watch the Oz Armor videos on You Tube. If you like to look at the workings of gear boxes, you'll be amazed

Weekly releases covering restorations, servicing and the museum in general

https://www.youtube.com/@ausarmour/videos

[Phillip1]

Stokesy44/digger303-That video is cool! The components are so heavy-duty yet so precise. That guy taking it apart must have sandpaper hands pulling on all those heavy sharp, metal edges bare-handed while being covered in various solvents!

Phillip1

[cor]

You sure that's a model you're building?

Really amazing

[Phillip1]

cor-Well, the box top text did state it would be..."the most impressive model you will ever build" (ha! ha!).

Phillip1

[Kevthemodeller]

Coming along very nicely

[Phillip1]

KevtheModeller-Thanks!

Phillip1

[Phillip1]

Fellow Modelers-Here is the next update.

Figure 029/030/031/032: Steps 29, 30, 31 and 32 are the assembly of the transmission gear selectors and gear shift.


Figure 029/030/031/032a: Here are the parts after being cleaned up. The shapes of the clear parts in this step are really complex and intricate.


Figures 029/030/031/032b through 012/030/031/032c: Here are images of the completed assembly. Once all the parts were in place it was easy to understand how the gear shift and selector rods worked together to manipulate the various gears. However, the first time I put this together it was a big struggle to shift into 1st and reverse gears with the gear shift. In fact, it operated so rough I eventually broke off the bottom of the gear shift which required me to disassemble everything to find out what was wrong. It turns out the problem was the scratch built part I made on the left hand selector rod back on Step 18. It was dimensionally off just enough to bind the entire shifting operation. Reshaping and reducing the scratch-built part got rid of the binding and now the transmission is able to shift all the gears easily. Whew! I am very impressed with the design and engineering done by Renwal on the transmission assembly.



Figure 029/030/031/032d: I enlarged this shifting diagram so it can be seen which gears interact with each other for 1st gear, 2nd gear, 3rd gear and reverse. Note that on this model the clutch does not have to be disengaged to put the car in gear or change gears, unlike a real automobile.


Figures 033/038: Steps 33 through 38 are the mounting of all sub-assemblies and few remaining parts.


Figures 033 through 033a: These two images show the clutch has been mounted to the transmission.



Figure 033b through 033d: These images show the electric motor housing has been mounted to the clutch. Extra detail painting has been added to upper part of the gear shift and along both sides of the selector rod case cover. In the last closeup image it can be seen how the external motor gear is connected to the flywheel gear of the clutch.




Figure 033e: The battery/control box has been temporarily wired to the electric motor to test the operation of the transmission. I did make a short video of the gears being shifted while the electric motor was running but do not believe it can be downloaded to this site.


Figures 033f through 033g: The kit supplied electrical wire is a very light gauge and I noticed several of the stands broke off during some of the test runs that were made. I felt it was too weak to use so I purchased a roll of thicker 20 gauge electrical wire as a replacement. The second image is a side by side comparison of the original kit wire vs the replacement wire.



Figure 033h: This image shows the battery/control box after it was reconfigured with the heavier electrical wire.


Figure 033i: Here are the last of the loose parts to be added to the model after being cleaned up.


Figure 034: The rear axle plate is shown after being bolted to the clear brake drum.


Figure 034a: This image shows the clear brake drum assembly after being attached to the end of the rear axle by a screw. At this point I decided not to mount the two rear tire/wheel assemblies, since I did not want to hide all of the nice and colorful details of the brake parts.


Figure 035 through 035c: These images show the front tire/wheel assemblies after being permanently attached to the chassis frame. The kit provides clear bubble hub caps as an option but I left them off. The condition of the parts was a little rough and besides I really like the new color of the wheel hubs and did not want to cover any of it up.





Figures 036 through 036a: Here the front half of the clutch/transmission assembly is in the process of being mounted to the chassis frame. First a cross member was added to the inside of the chassis frame then the clutch was bolted to the cross member.



Figures 036b through 036g: Part 76 (transmission bracket), which supports and holds the rear of the transmission in place, was also missing from my kit so a two-piece scratch-built replacement was made. These images show how a support brace and locking ring were created and mounted. A huge amount of tedious measuring, test fitting and sanding was required here.







Until next time...

Phillip1

[Stokesy44]

Fascinating stuff. Great to see the progress.

I think that is the first time I have ever seen a presentation of how a gear box works! Brilliant.