Something Big!

[DRUMS01]

As promised, here are some photos with descriptions on the previous mentioned activities and others as well.

I suppose we should get the panel lines and rivets taken care of first:















As for the ordnance, we have several variations to choose from. The sidewinders were improved by accurizing the target detector section, added the umbilical connection base, and created the aft hanger bracing. Here is a snapshot of what we have to add, less the gun and ammo pods:





And here is the upgraded gun and ammo pods. They were modified according to numerous source photos. Some of the items we modified are: scribing the full and correct panel lines as well as rivets; scratchbuilt a five barrel gun nozzle to place in the hole where the gun should be; cut and fit an aluminum shroud to the opening of the gun port; removed the out of scale round bumps and replaced them with hex bolt heads; and added other holes and mod's according to photos.









Since we are showing the weapons we are also going to provide a photo of the kit versus replacement weapons wing pylons and an image of some of the possible ordinance configurations:







During our research we also identified other items missing in the model, such as a small hole in the right side of the nose cone:



Another hole on the right side of the cockpit fuselage area:



A semi-circular brace under the forward edge of the wing (both sides):



The fix:



Internal flaps/doors on the inside fuselage area of the intake ports, along with sensors attached to them:



We worked on the leading edge of the main wing, as it mates up to the engine cover. Specifically, the angle of the wing versus the slope of the engine cover are not a perfect match. By design, this creates a very poor mating area. To fix this we cut some sheet plastic and glued it to the lower edge of the forward wing. It acts as a stabilizing guide which flexes the engine cover slightly to match the slope of the wing.



Keeping with the wing, we also identified areas around the wing tip vents/jets. The real aircraft has panels and rivets and the kit is very plain. Here is the actual aircraft:



And here is our fix. We think with some convincing painting they should look the part:



And sticking with the wings, we started to accurize the wing pogo strut bays. We still have more to do:





And more items of interest to add when finalizing the build:











So much has been done, but there is still more to do. I suppose once we finish the wing pogo wheel bays and paint them, we can finish assembly of the main wing halves and get that much closer to the finish line. Till the next update.....

Ben and Jarrod

[cor]

You're making me feel way too inferior

[digger303]

It's good work for sure.
Must be a member of the mediocre modellers group

[DRUMS01]

Thanks COR and DIGGER, but I highly doubt this is any better than what you're working on, after all, I see your stuff too.

For me, the Harrier and the A10 are two of my favorite sort-of modern aircraft. So spending extra time on this on to make it better I a fun time. I am getting to a point however that getting this buttoned up, painted and decaled will be a nice.

Next build will either be a car, armor, aircraft, ship, space, well.... it will be something.

[DRUMS01]

This weekend we began our preparation of a couple cemeteries for Memorial Day. That required cleaning up the gravesites and posting a small national colors flag to the right front of the tombstones of each deceased military veteran; that was Saturday. While tomorrow is actually our Memorial Day, today (Sunday) we got in our American Legion uniforms and performed an honor guard service at one our local churches, at their request. Over the years I have performed the duties as Commander, Chaplin, Color Guard, and this year I am part of the rifle squad. It is special to handle and fire the venerable M1 Garand as part of the service. My wife, Becky, also a military veteran, is the acting Post Commander, so she gets to perform the solum words to recognize and honor our Veterans who have given their lives in defense of our nation. These thought to be common men and women are not actually all that common. They were called upon or volunteered to defend our country, and in the crucible of combat or service, gave their lives for the mission or for others around them. While we honor our veterans, it is much the same patriotic feeling anyone would get for honoring those in similar circumstances in any other country. Being a military veteran, it is an honor and privilege to be a small part of this sacred service. Tomorrow, we perform two more ceremonies at the cemeteries we prepared.

So, that's our weekend pretty much, but we did find time to work on our AV8B Harrier. Just a little more detailing to show; this time on the pogo strut wheel gear bays.

When looking beneath the model with the pogo struts deployed, the bays were totally devoid of any detail, shape or anything. Considering what we've done to the kit already, we could not have that. So Jarrod and I began researching and eventually found some images on the area and started scratchbuilding to somewhat replicate something close.

Here is what we were using for reference. Check out the data plate on the strut too:





So we began by giving the wheel bay a representation of some kind of support structure (everything that's white plastic). The issue here is the space available when the strut is in the closed position, as there is not much area to work with:



As you can see in the real image, there is structure as well as hard and soft lines. Other details that caught our eye was the various fittings and shapes on the hydraulic actuator, along with some mounting bolts on the end inside the wing. So Jarrod and I thought that if we could come close to replicating some of it and then applying paint to enhance the effort, we would be happy.

So after working on the wing wheel bay and the actuator door which mounts the cylinder, we came up with what you see below. The hole in the center of the bay is for a screw that holds the wing together. It will have a plug to make it disappear once assembled. We may tweak the cylinder detail a little more still, but it's mostly done:





As for the trailing edge doors for the pogo struts, we have not even looked into any modifications on them just yet. Part of the challenge for them is that they are fixed into the open position with large tabs. On the actual aircraft, they look to have what appears to be a piano type hinge and they are almost triangular shaped versus the flat shape of the model part (see second real image).

So that's the update for now.

[digger303]

You don't have a lot of elbow room there to squeeze in all the plumbing.

[DRUMS01]

Hey digger, I was going to try and add the inner wall as shown in the photo for the pogo strut wells, but the model kit struts do not allow it as there isn't enough space.

Was also going to try to make a functional piano hinge from sectioned brass parts, but chose to scribe a simulated piano hinge on the edge of the door instead. I think once it is painted and washed, the little cuts to replicate the hinge will look the part (photo soon).

Next will be painting the wing wells, adding the pogo struts, then buttoning up the wing.

Ben

[digger303]

Hey digger, I was going to try and add the inner wall as shown in the photo for the pogo strut wells, but the model kit struts do not allow it as there isn't enough space.

Was also going to try to make a functional piano hinge from sectioned brass parts, but chose to scribe a simulated piano hinge on the edge of the door instead. I think once it is painted and washed, the little cuts to replicate the hinge will look the part (photo soon).

Next will be painting the wing wells, adding the pogo struts, then buttoning up the wing.

Ben

Even if you had a 3d printer, you would have to remake the leg as well as the leg housing and scale it to suit. That would be a huge amount of work for one area of the kit. Possibly not a big deal if your a power user of cad software.

[RangerNeil]

This weekend we began our preparation of a couple cemeteries for Memorial Day. That required cleaning up the gravesites and posting a small national colors flag to the right front of the tombstones of each deceased military veteran; that was Saturday. While tomorrow is actually our Memorial Day, today (Sunday) we got in our American Legion uniforms and performed an honor guard service at one our local churches, at their request. Over the years I have performed the duties as Commander, Chaplin, Color Guard, and this year I am part of the rifle squad. It is special to handle and fire the venerable M1 Garand as part of the service. My wife, Becky, also a military veteran, is the acting Post Commander, so she gets to perform the solum words to recognize and honor our Veterans who have given their lives in defense of our nation. These thought to be common men and women are not actually all that common. They were called upon or volunteered to defend our country, and in the crucible of combat or service, gave their lives for the mission or for others around them. While we honor our veterans, it is much the same patriotic feeling anyone would get for honoring those in similar circumstances in any other country. Being a military veteran, it is an honor and privilege to be a small part of this sacred service. Tomorrow, we perform two more ceremonies at the cemeteries we prepared.

So, that's our weekend pretty much, but we did find time to work on our AV8B Harrier. Just a little more detailing to show; this time on the pogo strut wheel gear bays.

When looking beneath the model with the pogo struts deployed, the bays were totally devoid of any detail, shape or anything. Considering what we've done to the kit already, we could not have that. So Jarrod and I began researching and eventually found some images on the area and started scratchbuilding to somewhat replicate something close.

Here is what we were using for reference. Check out the data plate on the strut too:





So we began by giving the wheel bay a representation of some kind of support structure (everything that's white plastic). The issue here is the space available when the strut is in the closed position, as there is not much area to work with:



As you can see in the real image, there is structure as well as hard and soft lines. Other details that caught our eye was the various fittings and shapes on the hydraulic actuator, along with some mounting bolts on the end inside the wing. So Jarrod and I thought that if we could come close to replicating some of it and then applying paint to enhance the effort, we would be happy.

So after working on the wing wheel bay and the actuator door which mounts the cylinder, we came up with what you see below. The hole in the center of the bay is for a screw that holds the wing together. It will have a plug to make it disappear once assembled. We may tweak the cylinder detail a little more still, but it's mostly done:





As for the trailing edge doors for the pogo struts, we have not even looked into any modifications on them just yet. Part of the challenge for them is that they are fixed into the open position with large tabs. On the actual aircraft, they look to have what appears to be a piano type hinge and they are almost triangular shaped versus the flat shape of the model part (see second real image).

So that's the update for now.

Excellent work on the out-riggers - must admit I'm really looking forwards to see this one painted and decalled. I think you and Jarrod will be setting a really high bar on this one!!

I also like the way the US honours its veterans. Over here these days you are more likely to be arrested...

[digger303]

"I also like the way the US honours its veterans"

I'd back that.

[DRUMS01]

One step closer to closing up the wings... today Jarrod and I finished up on the outrigger wing struts. Just to recap, we added structural elements in the strut bays. Next we added some hard and soft lines. Then we painted the bay white along with painting the lines the colors shown in the actual images. For the bay doors we used an exacto knife to cut or scour lines to simulated a piano hinge where the doors connect with the wing. Next we added some filler to attempt to match the shape of the internal door areas. The rest was painting, wash, and final details.

Actual images:





And here are some in-progress images and the final ones too.

In-Progress steps:







Finished pogo struts and bays:









And the next step we decided to do was add the main wheels to the main strut. The kit, as currently assembled, allowed us to balance it between the front and main gear, which allowed us to properly center and adjust the weighted wheels. Then we found we had a problem.....

Upon inspection, two things were immediately noticeable. First, the slope from the front to the rear of the aircraft is sitting rather flat. The nose should be higher. Second, the main gear once installed would not fit into the wheel bay. Remember, these are after-market resin wheels, which are wider.





So we used debonder and took the main gear wheels off. Once off, we modified the fitment to narrow the width, this allowing them to fit in the wheel bay. While that solved the second issue, the first issue is still unresolved. I am hoping that Jarrod and I can remove the hinge pin on the front gear by drifting it out without hurting the parts. Our thought would be to cut one of the springs to a height that would elevate the front just a little. That way the spring could compress and allow us to close the front gear in its bay when desired while still maintaining the desired height when deployed. I will let you know how this goes...

That's it for now... Thanks for following along and remember that your replies and thoughts are always welcome.

Ben and Jarrod

[digger303]

Lovely as always and I'm sure you will sort it.

[DRUMS01]

Between the Tamiya cement and the paint, there is no way I can remove the front gear pivot pin without destroying the strut itself.

So...... we've been thinking, since we're dropping the flaps to the fixed launch or descending position anyway, we should have the gear deployed. That would be true, even if we suspend it. So my thought for the immediate is, to fix the front gear in a slightly higher raised position, which will create the stance I'm after.

Now, since we will still be painting it, Jarrod and I will wait to fix the landing gear until the painting is done. And before we can paint it, we still need to add numerous items like the wing assembly, etc. So, stay tuned for our next update.

[cor]

Quite the engineering project.
I bet you want to build something next that is nothing but follow the instructions.

[digger303]

As long as it works

[DRUMS01]

COR, I think you're right! But you should know what it feels like with all the work you are doing on the Ducati. It's looking good by the way.

DIGGER, part of me wants to drill out the pivot pin and cut a spring to fit inside the main strut to lift the front but still be collapsable to fit in the wheel well. If the front strut was not in the wheel well and the well in fuselage, it would be so much easier. As it is, it would be very difficult to drill it out straight while not boogering up something else that's already added to the fuselage. Then again, with the weighted tires added, it will look strange in the air with the bulge showing on the tire. That is the main reason why I want to be able to stow them in their bays when in flight. To add more to the mix, if I extend the front strut by fixing the pivot in a permanent position, it will not fit in the wheel bay (too long). It's almost a no win either way we go.

I may have another idea to lift the front without compromising the kit. I'll let you know once I try it out.

[cor]

I know exactly what it's like. That's why I mentioned it. And I'd love to make my next model paint by numbers, but I've ordered an old MPC 1/43ish X-Wing as my next project, just to really beat myself up.

[DRUMS01]

I know exactly what it's like. That's why I mentioned it. And I'd love to make my next model paint by numbers, but I've ordered an old MPC 1/43ish X-Wing as my next project, just to really beat myself up.

Exactly.... I have the larger scale MPC X-Wing sitting in a box for years. I'm sure you will make it look stunning.

Well, I think Jarrod and I found a remedy regarding the posture of the aircraft. But first, lets show everyone what we've been up to. While I may have started this build following a sequential step by step process, it quickly turned into jumping around while building sub-assemblies. To a large degree, that was needed for the amount of modification and scratch building we've done. Certain modifications need the adjacent sub-assemblies temporarily attached to make sure everything fits as it should.

So with all that said, lets start where we left off at the last update, the main wing assembly. After finishing up the pogo or out-rigger wing landing struts, we were able to begin buttoning up the lower wing halves to the top main wing. Between the guide pins, slots, and screw locations, it was easy to align. And because of the thickness of the plastic, it was easy to glue and screw together, creating a tightly bonded and almost gap free assembly. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of test fitting prior to assembly, especially when modifying to the extent that Jarrod and I have done.

After getting the top and two lower halves together it was time to plug the screw holes and fill them. For this we used the kit plugs but they left a noticeable hole or depression in the wing. So we used CA cement that was layered then filed and sanded flush. One of the screws was located in the pogo gear bay. Once the pogo strut doors are attached it cannot be seen. Still we painted the depression there white and weathered it to match the rest of the bay.

Next came the test fitting of the wing to the fuselage, which didn't go real well. There are long narrow slots underneath the top of the wing that align very close to the edge of the bottom wing that have to fit tightly to establish the tight wing root once assembled. That very tight fit along with the tabs on the top of the fuselage did not want to fit properly; leaving an ugly gap between the rear wing and fuselage. When looking closer, we also had holes in the fuselage where the flaps were originally to go before we modified them to the dropped position which needed filled with a combination of stretched sprue sheet plastic, and CA cement. (see the round circle and white plastic in the image below):



To solve the gap issue, we found that removing part of the tab molded with the fuselage and filing it thinner, it allowed us to float the wing ever so slightly, allowing us the ability to close up the gaps and align it properly. Once the top seams were closed we applied CA to the lower wing to fuselage gap and applied light pressure to close the gap. The fit was so good zero filler was needed.





The next step was to add the remaining top of the wing, also known as the engine bay cover. This proved to be the worst fit of all. As explained in earlier updates, the engine cover and the forward edge of the wing had two different curves, when actually they should've been the same. That was why Jarrod and I added the sheet plastic under the forward edge of the wing. So while we had to align numerous angles and slopes there, we also had to ensure the tight lower connection under the engine cover with the fuselage and wing; and simultaneously the forward edge of the cover as it mates to the area behind the cockpit. The only way we could accomplish this was to glue it in small increments while applying a high degree of pressure. Starting with the back, then beneath the cover to the fuselage, and last the forward area between the cover the the cockpit.



While not absolutely perfect, it will not need much filler.

So here it is fully attached:



Since we had it this much assembled, we decided to snap in place the rear stabilizers and rudder assemblies and tape on the nose cone to show the full size of the kit.





At this point, we finally can talk about the angle of the fuselage. First off, the drilling out of the front strut pivot pin was not an option. So what Jarrod and I came up with was to add a very small sliver of plastic as a wedge in the pivot area, by doing so limiting the travel or compression of the front strut. This allows us to properly pose the kit on the ground while still being allowed to compress the front strut to fit in the wheel well.



I think the next area we will work on is the intake area on the fuselage side to create the flaps and sensors and the weapons pylons, including the gun and ammo pods. Till then... thanks for looking and following along.

[digger303]

Clever boys , well done fixing that wheel strut issue.
It's all looking very good.

[RangerNeil]

Thats a neat solution to the undercarriage issue - congratulations to you both!!

[DRUMS01]

Time for another update....

Jarrod and I have been busy, this time focusing on the weapons pylons and gun system.

With the aftermarket pylons being resin, and not kit parts; they did not fit 100 correct. The angle, as they fit on the wing, were not even with the fuselage and vertical to the ground. Also, the weapons mounting surface was not level and had a slope down from the wing that needed fixed. So each weapons pylon had to be fitted by filing the mating surface as well as plastic shims (?). Before anyone asks, YES I did verify numerous times that the right pylons were being used for the right sides. If I ever build another one, I just might use the kit parts and detail them. That would've been easier. But after investing in the resin parts, we were going to use them, no matter what!

When mounting the resin parts we should mention that there were large molded slots in the wing for the kit parts. So mounting the resin parts proved to be tedious. The resin parts came with small holes in the mating surface, so I suppose I could've pinned them on, but that would've been two more holes to drill and the CA cement was very, very sold without them.

The next assembly we added was the right and left gun pod with crossover. Just some Harrier information for everyone: Did you know that there was only one gun in the two pods, residing in the right pod as you're looking at the aircraft from the front, or left pod if you’re sitting in the cockpit. The other pod is to hold the ammunition. The center crossover is the link system that feeds the five barrel gun. Also, did you know that the design of the pods, along with the front and rear air deflectors, make up a system called the Lift improvement Device, or LID's. It creates a cushion or pocket of air under the center of the fuselage that "captures" the exhaust, creating a high-pressure air cushion by trapping the recirculating exhaust, the LIDS system increases the lift by roughly 1,200 pounds during low-altitude hover. And now you know....

After all this typing, I'll stop and show you the results: NOTE: While the images make the pylons look crooked or at weird angles, they are not.









Then, we started cleaning up the weapons, in this case, the 500lb bombs and the sidewinder missile racks. Each had two 1/8 inch holes, one in front and one the back. They were designed to be used with the kit pylons that had large pins to fit them to the aircraft. Using the resin detailed parts meant we had to close those holes, see below:

Work in Progress


Sidewinder mounts, finished (holes filled)


Then we had to fit the main flaps by removing plastic and making them square, as the ends had some strange angles as molded (?). I'm sure they would've fit in the original kit closed position, but once Jarrod and dropped them, they would not fit. So after some intense shaving / filing / grinding / sanding, and fitting, here is what they will look like once added. We are going to wait to add them until after the Harrier is painted, but this gives you an idea:



That's it for now. Soon will be the priming and then figuring out which paint scheme I want to use.

Till then, thanks for checking in, and leave a note if you like what we’re doing.....

Ben and Jarrod

[cor]

It's getting bigger. So awesome. Such a mammoth amount of work.

Have you given much thought to where you're going to put it?

[DRUMS01]

I’m leaning on making it a hanger.

[RangerNeil]

I’m leaning on making it a hanger.

You are going to make a Hanger to display it it? Or hang it from the ceiling?
I kinda like the idea of the display hanger.

[DRUMS01]

Neil, I guess I have the whole basement. But if I make a hanger for it then I would have to do the same for
My other 16 scale 1/18 aircraft, and that may prove difficult.

[digger303]

I like it and what your doing.
But I want those pylons straight and true

[DRUMS01]

Sir, yes, sir! Straight Pylons Sir!!

Guys and Gals,.... I'm perhaps jumping ahead, but soon we will be priming and finishing up the grunt work before I apply a top coat.

That begs the question, What camouflage and color scheme should I apply to this big thing? Some of my ideas may seem like I'm bouncing off the walls or something. Because I've debated stuff like using my aftermarket decals which have the flying tigers with a vintage P40 color and added decals scheme:



Or how about the Desert Storm sand cammo?

I've also debated adding the grey and blue scheme:



And here are the colors for the aftermarket decals:



And here's the two tone gray:



The list could go on for schemes like a Vietnam green and tan color, or a 80's European scheme, then perhaps even a wild digital scheme; the options are endless. What do you think would be the best color options? Are WW2 invasion stripes out of the question? Perhaps even the three tone WW2 Navy blue scheme like on the old Corsairs or Hellcats?

Jarrod and I have put it out there, let us know your thoughts....

[cor]

Whatever you go with, and it is a lot to choose from, its gonna look great. Put your favs into a hat do a lucky dip...

[digger303]

50 shades of grey

[DRUMS01]

And what books have Y-O-U been reading digger?

[digger303]

And what books have Y-O-U been reading digger?

Just keeping a roof over the head of some poor author ...