Fujimi 1/20 - Williams FW16 San Marino GP 1994 Deluxe Edition.

[Patrik72]

I've never been pleased with any tyre decaling i've done in the past patrik. Is this the first time you've had trouble with them ?

Its the first time im building a car that needs decaling on the tires. Actually its my first time building a real kit of a car. (I dont count those small F1-cars from Heller i glued together many years ago).

This is your first serious build ? I'm blown away patrik ! Your a natural

Yup, it sure is. Im trying to slow my build process down so it wont end up like my last few builds.

Thank you John! I dont know if im a natural. Just been reading and watching many build threads and clips. Learning from what other modellers do and apply it to my own build in a fashion that suits my style.

[Patrik72]

After removing the bad decaling, which was also a pain in the rear. I attached masking-tape on the outside and white tac on the inside.

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This was a test to see how it would work. Airbrushed it yellow and hoped that my masking would hold up.

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As you can see where the white tac been, i got a rough uneven edge. A bit of masking-tape and black paint can fix that. Im happy with the result because it sure looks better then the decal, if i may say so myself.

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[Davethepitch]

It is a pity that the wheel cannot be attached to something that turns and you apply the paint whilst it revolves.

[Patrik72]

It is a pity that the wheel cannot be attached to something that turns and you apply the paint whilst it revolves.

No big deal. All the wheels are masked and ready for painting.

Maybe one could attach them to a Dremel, but i think it will rotate too fast for applying the paint with precision.

[Patrik72]

Last few days have been tough. Been having a cold and running a fever. But all the goodies i ordered have arrived, and today i had to try out the carbon decals. Lets say that im not too happy with the result on these two parts atm. Will apply some more Micro set later and see if the decals will set better.

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[RossiM1]

Great wip Patrik and for a 1st F1 you are doing a fantastic job, I have been a builder of F1 and competition cars and bikes for about 25 years, and am 1 of the founder members of Les Garagistes, model club we have a web site you might enjoy, http://www.garagistesland.com I have the MFH version of this kit to build along with Senna's Toleman from Monaco when he was robbed of his first win in the rain.
Just a suggestion when decaling tyres spray a clear coat onto them first, just a light dusting, this will eliminate the silvering from the carrier film and give a key for them to adhere to as most kits tyres are vinyl, not rubber. then just give a spray coat of a matt or semi matt clear to seal them in. When applying carbon decals, I use a hair dryer and the decal solvent to help them to conform to the many complex curves found on competition machines and gentle application of warm air helps heat shrink the decal to the surface, and again seal with a clear coat, I tend to use Tamiya Clear Smoke X19 to tone down the carbon decal as some of them can be a bit exaggerated.
Hope you do not mind here are a couple of photos from a recent build using these methods.



Keep it up Patrik the Williams will look superb.

[ElCapitan]

Good save on the wheel decals!

Personally I don't rate Microsol/set at all. They really struggle with any decals that aren't ultra-thin, in my experience! Daco has performed really well for me in the past.

[Patrik72]

Great wip Patrik and for a 1st F1 you are doing a fantastic job, I have been a builder of F1 and competition cars and bikes for about 25 years, and am 1 of the founder members of Les Garagistes, model club we have a web site you might enjoy, http://www.garagistesland.com I have the MFH version of this kit to build along with Senna's Toleman from Monaco when he was robbed of his first win in the rain.
Just a suggestion when decaling tyres spray a clear coat onto them first, just a light dusting, this will eliminate the silvering from the carrier film and give a key for them to adhere to as most kits tyres are vinyl, not rubber. then just give a spray coat of a matt or semi matt clear to seal them in. When applying carbon decals, I use a hair dryer and the decal solvent to help them to conform to the many complex curves found on competition machines and gentle application of warm air helps heat shrink the decal to the surface, and again seal with a clear coat, I tend to use Tamiya Clear Smoke X19 to tone down the carbon decal as some of them can be a bit exaggerated.
Hope you do not mind here are a couple of photos from a recent build using these methods.


Keep it up Patrik the Williams will look superb.

Thank you very much Rossi!

Appreciate the tips and tricks, will probably try them out on this build as i go. The problem with the tires is solved, bought the Good Year Eagle template for airbrushing on the markings. The clear coats i have are from Alclad, gloss and matte. A bit reserved on using the gloss one, sets well at first, but after 24-48 hours it starts to feel sticky if you put your finger on it/handling the parts.

I applied the carbon decals on the airbox yesterday evening. It took some time but i got them to set. Wish i knew about the hairdryer trick then, haha!

The Audi looks great, Nice work on carbon on the front splitter. I hope we get to see you build the Toleman and the FW16 from MFH. I will build another racecar if we get a SIG going next year. Between then i´ll probably build another submarine or a modern jet, something simpler then this baby.

[Patrik72]

Good save on the wheel decals!

Personally I don't rate Microsol/set at all. They really struggle with any decals that aren't ultra-thin, in my experience! Daco has performed really well for me in the past.

Hi Rob!

I bought them because that's what i heard and read that most builders use, i had no experience with any decal solutions at all up to this point. I´ll keep Daco in mind and give it a try on a build in the near future.

[Patrik72]

Progress so far...

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2 of the reference photos im working from.

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[RossiM1]

Hi Patrik
Good work on that airbox decal it has come out really well, your progress is looking very nice. I bought some Alclad Aqua gloss and like you found that it stays "tacky" for a long while, it is very similar to Windsor & Newton artists acrylic U,V stable clear, I was using their satin, gloss and matt varnishes for years especially over decals, but they had to be left in a warm dry place for about 7 days before they went like glass, I put coated parts into a sealed plastic container/ sandwich box and placed it in the clothes airing cupboard where it is warm and dry, and being in a sealed box there is no danger of dust particles contaminating the finish.
Looking forward to your next update good luck.
Gary

[Twokidsnosleep]

Oh the rear clip assembly looks great!!
Those spy shots of the real thing very cool

[Patrik72]

Oh the rear clip assembly looks great!!
Those spy shots of the real thing very cool

Thanks Buddy!

Finished it today and going to start on the cockpit next. Will post a few photos later tonight or early morning.

The ref photos are of Hills or David´s car. Notice the second opening/cutout on the airbox, that was added later under the season. The engines look like museum pieces, lack of heat damage/stains. Not many photos around of Senna's FW16 on Imola, and i don't want to work from photos of the wrecked car unless it absolutely necessary.

From the Pacific GP 1994.

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[Patrik72]

Hi Patrik
Good work on that airbox decal it has come out really well, your progress is looking very nice. I bought some Alclad Aqua gloss and like you found that it stays "tacky" for a long while, it is very similar to Windsor & Newton artists acrylic U,V stable clear, I was using their satin, gloss and matt varnishes for years especially over decals, but they had to be left in a warm dry place for about 7 days before they went like glass, I put coated parts into a sealed plastic container/ sandwich box and placed it in the clothes airing cupboard where it is warm and dry, and being in a sealed box there is no danger of dust particles contaminating the finish.
Looking forward to your next update good luck.
Gary

Im not going to use the Alclad gloss anymore. I varnished the exhausts 2 weeks ago and it feels like i coated them with glue that wont set. My fingers got stuck to them, and then ripped the paint right off when i removed my fingers. Tried to do some damage repair, hoping that it might add realism instead of hiding the mess i did.

Photos will come later today or tomorrow.

[Patrik72]

With my current skill level, this is the best i could do. There are some mistakes made, those are saved in my memory-bank till the next build. Overall im OK with how it turned out. I will have to admit to one stupid mistake. According to the manual/instructions, the Renault logo on the airbox is placed on the far left/right side. Looking at the ref photos its placed in the middle.

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[Patrik72]

2 more...Yup, the blue cables/hoses need a touch up of blue paint.

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[exmoor]

Looking very nice pat theres more detail then the revell mclaren am strugging with decals at the moment trying to get them to sit right trouble is they will make or break the finnish look fingars crossed

[Davethepitch]

I agree nice build and waiting for more build pics.

[Patrik72]

Starting on the tub with the instrument panel, steering-wheel and seat. I have not found any ref photos of the inside of the cockpit. I will just paint the parts as it says in the instructions, all black and put the decal on the instrument panel.

Thinking of priming the entire tub before gluing them together. This is after the seat and instrument panel have been done and glued in place. Question is; glue first and fix the seam line or is it ok to prime and then move on to the seam line?

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Luckily i made a test fit on the floor. Discovered that the exhausts don't line up with the opening. This needs to be addressed before i continue with the stuff mentioned above. (Would of been hell to try too fix this after having glued the coolers in place).

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[Patrik72]

Looking very nice pat theres more detail then the revell mclaren am strugging with decals at the moment trying to get them to sit right trouble is they will make or break the finnish look fingars crossed

Thank you Paul.

Im having the same problem, decaling and painting small parts. Not having hands like a surgeon, and eye sight like Mr Magoo really shows on my builds.

[exmoor]

Yes same hear pat am in my mid 50s eyesight and fingars not so good has they use to be older age dont come alone .your build is looking great looking forward to seeing finnish pics

[Davethepitch]

Not having hands like a surgeon, and eye sight like Mr Magoo really shows on my builds.

I am close to finishing a Suzuki Hayabusa bike and you should see how poor I have made it and I am embarrassed to show it as the paint job just peeled off where I had masked it.

Dave

[RossiM1]

Hi Patrik
Good work on that airbox decal it has come out really well, your progress is looking very nice. I bought some Alclad Aqua gloss and like you found that it stays "tacky" for a long while, it is very similar to Windsor & Newton artists acrylic U,V stable clear, I was using their satin, gloss and matt varnishes for years especially over decals, but they had to be left in a warm dry place for about 7 days before they went like glass, I put coated parts into a sealed plastic container/ sandwich box and placed it in the clothes airing cupboard where it is warm and dry, and being in a sealed box there is no danger of dust particles contaminating the finish.
Looking forward to your next update good luck.
Gary

Im not going to use the Alclad gloss anymore. I varnished the exhausts 2 weeks ago and it feels like i coated them with glue that wont set. My fingers got stuck to them, and then ripped the paint right off when i removed my fingers. Tried to do some damage repair, hoping that it might add realism instead of hiding the mess i did.

Photos will come later today or tomorrow.

Hi Patrik the Williams is looking really good, just a thought occurred to me, are you using the Aqua gloss over acrylics or enamels, the reason I ask is that I coated some hand painted Humbrol metalcote on a kit and that never hardened either, the other clear laquer I use is spray can general purpose acrylic lacquer from an automotive store, sprayed in light coats it works really well, and hardens like glass, its great on car and bike kits.
With regard to the seam on the tub I would spray a light coat of grey primer this will highlight where the filler is needed fill sand then re prime and then when your happy with the join paint the top coat. Enjoying this build a lot, only built 1 Fujimi car kit that was a Porsche 917
Good luck
Gary

[Patrik72]

Hi Patrik
Good work on that airbox decal it has come out really well, your progress is looking very nice. I bought some Alclad Aqua gloss and like you found that it stays "tacky" for a long while, it is very similar to Windsor & Newton artists acrylic U,V stable clear, I was using their satin, gloss and matt varnishes for years especially over decals, but they had to be left in a warm dry place for about 7 days before they went like glass, I put coated parts into a sealed plastic container/ sandwich box and placed it in the clothes airing cupboard where it is warm and dry, and being in a sealed box there is no danger of dust particles contaminating the finish.
Looking forward to your next update good luck.
Gary

Im not going to use the Alclad gloss anymore. I varnished the exhausts 2 weeks ago and it feels like i coated them with glue that wont set. My fingers got stuck to them, and then ripped the paint right off when i removed my fingers. Tried to do some damage repair, hoping that it might add realism instead of hiding the mess i did.

Photos will come later today or tomorrow.

Hi Patrik the Williams is looking really good, just a thought occurred to me, are you using the Aqua gloss over acrylics or enamels, the reason I ask is that I coated some hand painted Humbrol metalcote on a kit and that never hardened either, the other clear laquer I use is spray can general purpose acrylic lacquer from an automotive store, sprayed in light coats it works really well, and hardens like glass, its great on car and bike kits.
With regard to the seam on the tub I would spray a light coat of grey primer this will highlight where the filler is needed fill sand then re prime and then when your happy with the join paint the top coat. Enjoying this build a lot, only built 1 Fujimi car kit that was a Porsche 917
Good luck
Gary

Hi Gary!

Here are the paints and varnish i used on the exhausts. Im kind of suspecting that the Alclad High Speed Silver i used might be the troublemaker.

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Thanks for the tip. Just curious because when i build jets, i prime after the seam line is fixed. Thought that it might be different with car builds. Besides, i only have black colored primer and it would be hard too see the gaps.

How was the Porsche to build and did you go with the Gulf colors?

[Patrik72]

Not having hands like a surgeon, and eye sight like Mr Magoo really shows on my builds.

I am close to finishing a Suzuki Hayabusa bike and you should see how poor I have made it and I am embarrassed to show it as the paint job just peeled off where I had masked it.

Dave

Ouch! Been there myself buddy. That really messes up ones build and mojo.
I hope it wont get you down and that you will continue with your build. Never give up, if there is a will then there is a way.

[Patrik72]

Yes same hear pat am in my mid 50s eyesight and fingars not so good has they use to be older age dont come alone .your build is looking great looking forward to seeing finnish pics

Mid 40´s myself, so i should not really complain. But...Once you hit 40 strange stuff starts too happen to the body and mind, in a downwards spiral.

[exmoor]

Pat mid 40s was still riding 3 hour motorcycle enduros now at 53 got a job to get me leg over the bike and the last 6 months my eye sigth is getting bad for close up work anyway enougth of the moaning lol have a good day

[Patrik72]

No flappy paddles, which is a shame. Will see if i can scratch build a pair.

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Matte varnish. Surface was too shiny before.

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I wanted the seat too look used since they are form-fitted to the driver. Its primed in black. Then i used a dark grey (own mix of revell enamels) too dry brush the places that would look worn. Finished it off with a layer of Alclads matte varnish.

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[exmoor]

Looking good pat

[Davethepitch]

Coming along nice.

[Patrik72]

Thank you gents!

Bit nervous, im going to glue all these parts together today and see how much work will be needed on that seam line. Hoping that the glue will make sure there are no gaps. As always, photos will be posted.

[exmoor]

Thankyou for the comments you left onmy site your doing a grand job on yours good luck with the rest of the build.

[Patrik72]

Thankyou for the comments you left onmy site your doing a grand job on yours good luck with the rest of the build.

Your welcome and thanks!

[Patrik72]

The floor got a layer of paint.

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The instrument panel got its decals and glued in place + the seat.

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[Patrik72]

Almost glued the 2 halves of the monocoque together when i realized that i forgot to make the seatbelts. The kit does not come with seatbelts, had to order a set. I choose a set from Tamiya with PE and in paper...Yes, paper! (Next time i wont be cheap). No photos of me making the seatbelts. Must of been the most frustrating part so far on the build, i almost gave up. There are a few mistakes and it looks like dodo, but it looks even worse without any seatbelts at all.

Glued and waiting for sanding and paint. This is where i left the build for today. Have to order some white paint, which i forgot when ordering the Williams blue. Damn tunnel-vision!

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[Patrik72]

Sanded and primed the monocoque.

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Then i painted the details on the front suspension and electronics + the carbon decals.

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Now all i can do is wait for the white paint too arrive. Should be here by end of the week, or early next week. Taking a short break from the build until then.

Found my old F1 cars by Heller i built many years ago. Last time these saw daylight was back in 2004, on my office desk.

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[Davethepitch]

Nice even paint job looking good Patrick.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Love those old F1 models, you did a fine job in making them. I would think the Tamiya's will be even easier to make.
My 1/20th stash count is up to 20 of those F1 kits
My best is a MFH 1/20 of Gilles VIlleneuve's car all white metal

[Davethepitch]

My 1/20th stash count is up to 20 of those F1 kits

20 F1 kits

[Twokidsnosleep]

My 1/20th stash count is up to 20 of those F1 kits

20 F1 kits

Ya, it has gotten a little out of hand....they are a blast from the past, reliving my teen childhood times I suppose. Still more in another cupboard and my favourites are at home. Let's just say 20 so it doesn't sound so bad


Sorry Patrick, back to your wonderful build

[Davethepitch]

I built a Red Bull racing but the decals tore on me and it ruined the car and as such I almost cried when I threw it away as the paint job was great.

Dave

[RossiM1]

Looking good Patrik, the details on the dash and the suspension control panel look very sharp, have never used the Tamiya paper harness's before I normally use some 2mm & 3mm Offray haberdashers ribbon and buckles by Top Studio or similar. Looking forward to seeing the paint go on love that Rothmans livery.
I hate to admit that my hoard has got out of control over the years, I have over 70 1/43rds F1 cars to build, plus 6 1/12ths Tamiya and Protar F1's 3 MFH F1's Toleman ,Williams FW16 like your Fujimi, Ferrari 312T4, plus more Rally, GT, and bikes than I care to count plus aircraft, I think I have an addiction, but hey ho.
Good luck with the progress loving the updates.
Gary

[Davethepitch]

plus 6 1/12ths Tamiya
Gary

6 1/12 cars those are big I am envious

[RossiM1]

Keep promising I will get round to starting them or at least one them, the Arnoux Renault is the one I really want to get round too.

[Davethepitch]

I was going to buy a Tamiya 1/12 Honda RA273 but it is out of my budget.

Dave

[Patrik72]

Nice even paint job looking good Patrick.

Thank you Dave.

The Ultimate primer is very forgiving.

[Patrik72]

Love those old F1 models, you did a fine job in making them. I would think the Tamiya's will be even easier to make.
My 1/20th stash count is up to 20 of those F1 kits
My best is a MFH 1/20 of Gilles VIlleneuve's car all white metal

You are one lucky dude! Wish i had 20 F1 cars to choose from at home.

That MFH Ferrari in all metal cant be a cheap model. (Wont be a that geezer from down the road and ask what you payed for it). But i would love to see a few photos of the kit. When it comes to metal im struggling with the idea of which is better. Buying a finished Die cast model (Limited edition) or building one? This is mostly because i dont trust my own skills in building models.

[Patrik72]

Looking good Patrik, the details on the dash and the suspension control panel look very sharp, have never used the Tamiya paper harness's before I normally use some 2mm & 3mm Offray haberdashers ribbon and buckles by Top Studio or similar. Looking forward to seeing the paint go on love that Rothmans livery.
I hate to admit that my hoard has got out of control over the years, I have over 70 1/43rds F1 cars to build, plus 6 1/12ths Tamiya and Protar F1's 3 MFH F1's Toleman ,Williams FW16 like your Fujimi, Ferrari 312T4, plus more Rally, GT, and bikes than I care to count plus aircraft, I think I have an addiction, but hey ho.
Good luck with the progress loving the updates.
Gary

Thanks Gary.
Those paper harnesses don't even come pre-cut. I don't recommend these sets unless you want to save on expenses, or one is in desperate need of the tire template.

Jesus! You and Scott can start your own F1 model museums.
However i think its an positive addiction, unless you guys are sitting in a dark corner on the floor, gently caressing and talking to the kits.

[Patrik72]

Hard to stay away from my model...Was supposed to take a break....

Airbrushed the monocoque with the Rothmans Blue today....Nosecone will be next in line.

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[Davethepitch]

That is a nice blue colour who is it made by
.