Global Scale Modeller

The T34's tracks are completes - all cleaned up, super-glued and ready for a good wash in soapy water tonight. Then into the Burnishing Fluid together with the Shilka's.

So - the big day - time to try out Ultimates Burnishing Fluid. I split the bottle into two and topped up with fresh water as per the instructional video on the umpretail.com web site:


And left them to soak. This is the state after some 10 minutes:


The bright spots being where the fluid hasn't taken - hopefully just a case of "yet".
I am going to leave them in for 6 hours checking hourly to see what happens,. Might have to stay in overnight...

One thing to note for the future or if you are going to try using metal tracks and fluid - its best to soak the links BEFORE building the track up - the fluid won't take to superglue - and that's what holds the pins in..... Silly me missed that bit in the "how to" video..

They're looking good! It should be an easy work around if it is super glue stopping a few areas from burnishing, although inconvenient.

It is the superglue in most places. Somebody must do a dark rust paint colour - I hope!
If I am going to do any more track that requires the pins sealed then I need to find a more accurate way of applying the CA other than using a toothpick - my hands are a bit too shaky for that to have the required accuracy.... Old age is a bummer I can tell you!!

The T-343 track is still soaking - going to leave it all night. Mean time I cracked on with the hull. Virtually everything that's going to be green is now in place and ready for painting tomorrow. The hand-tools etc remain in the sprue until needed and then will get their own paint. Then the T-34 can get the winterised treatment and see how good I can do that - or how bad I can screw it up as a first time..

Looking good there Neil, tracks are superb

Today I concentrated on the T-34. The tracks were left for over 14 hours in the Burnishing fluid and I am happy with the outcome - nice and rusty looking. Just need a very thin strip of abrasive run around the centre inside to mark the passage of the road wheels.. I don't understand, though why the fluid failed to penetrate some of the recessed sections. I worked them over in the fluid with a toothbrush to get the fluid in everywhere. I suppose that will be one of life's great unanswered questions!!


And flipped:


I then got the airbrush out and gave the hull and turret a blow over with Vallejo #609 4BO Green primer. Wheels are masked as I did not want to be repainting those tyres again...




That's going to dry overnight and then tomorrow I add the #018 black green into the recessed areas as per the instructions and #017 Light Russian Green on the high spots. I have one SMALL problem though - I have somehow misplaced the painting and decal sheet for this one!!!

Got a bit side-tracked today - missus wanted things packed away "ready to move" after she found out there was no glass varnish for the Shilka but I got a bit done on the T34. Final dark top coat is one and tomorrow - hopefully - I will get the light overcoat on for the faded in-service look. I also test fitted one track - got to come off for varnishing but curiosity got the better of me...
I also dug out the piece of wood I want to use as a base. Thinking a muddy path with sparse vegetation.

The burnishing fluid certainly makes the metal tracks look the part. Will have to try a set on something eventually.

Great work on the tracks and scratch building. I love it when you can see the care in build showing like that

Top coat is on, track is off again, ready for a coat of satin varnish after the decals go on Minor detailing left to do - spare track links, PE straps for these etc and then the vehicle will be complete but for the glazing. I'm putting the varnish on first so I don't have to try and mask itsy bitsy glazing pieces up. Yep - I am lazy

Superb colour there Neil, just screaming for the weathering to begin

Just got the extra track kinks and pioneer tools to go on - then, if I remember correctly its a coat of satin varnish all over before trying to apply weathering pigments!!

Oh yes - and fitting the tracks permanently

Not heard back from Zvezda on the painting and decal guide but fortunately the back of the box has some good photos of the finished model so I used that decal scheme. Turret decals are now on ready for a coat of sating varnish. Hull still needs a bit of work in adding the final track packs and a bit of final detail painting once they are on.



Rear number is still wrinkled from the Microsol in the photo - it has smoothed out but a bit of white paint may be needed for a touch up. Had to remove the rear grab rail to get the 107 on. I'll replace it when the turret has the varnish on.

It's looking great Neil!

Better and better

Looking good Neil, great to see

Tracks on, decals on - trying my hand at weathering now... Trying being the operative word......



Got to get a crack on as the NHS decided after a massive 6 weeks I'm no longer a "critical risk" and Amazon have recalled me to work on the 1st April (auspicious start back date)......

Using the Ultimate washes - its odd - in places its just balling up like rain on a windscreen rather than coating. I gave the T-34 a coat of satin varnish before hand - should I have used matt instead??

looking great Neil, love those Russian decals
Have fun weathering, its easy to get carried away trying to do too much too quick, I find its always best in short bursts and build up in layers. Most mistakes become happy accidents, what we see ourselves in our work as a mistake can look perfectly fine to others if not its fairly easy to rectify and redo. What did you have in mind for the weathering and are you thinking of a base or Diorama

Casper wrote: Sun Mar 21, 2021 6:35 pm looking great Neil, love those Russian decals
Have fun weathering, its easy to get carried away trying to do too much too quick, I find its always best in short bursts and build up in layers. Most mistakes become happy accidents, what we see ourselves in our work as a mistake can look perfectly fine to others if not its fairly easy to rectify and redo. What did you have in mind for the weathering and are you thinking of a base or Diorama

The vehicle is marked up as one that was in the pursuit from Leningrad so I am thinking very muddy rather than snow.
I have a wooden section that I am currently using to put the T-34 on whilst working as it lets me keep it all together and kept it separate from the Shilka. I want to have a stab at creating a diorama on this base once the model is finished - another thing I've never tried before so expect "interesting" - if not outright comical - results
I'm thinking of marking the area out to be used with masking tape, roughing the surface up , coating it with PVA glue then applying plaster or plaster of paris to make the basics of the scene . Right now thinking of a muddy track with just the T-34 on it. But I gather these things take on a life of their own.

Forgive me but my knowledge on Tanks and where they fought battles is very limited
If you are thinking of doing a muddy track a mix of plaster would be a little thin to work with unless you are planning to add something to make it workable, I would recommend scultptamold as its a mix of fine paper pulp and plaster and is wonderful to use and takes paint really well and sticks like glue and dries in around an hour depending on the thickness. Just make sure you shake the bag before using it I forgot and got toilet paper

You may find a video on YouTube.
mark

VMS has a product called smart mud and a little goes a long way. Depending on how much activator you use you can get a sloppy mud right through to a sticky medium that balls up, sticks and tears just like the real thing. Very easy to use.

Thanks guys - I will check both out tomorrow. Pit time here now!!

digger303 wrote: Sun Mar 21, 2021 11:06 pm VMS has a product called smart mud and a little goes a long way. Depending on how much activator you use you can get a sloppy mud right through to a sticky medium that balls up, sticks and tears just like the real thing. Very easy to use.

not heard of that sounds really good stuff, will check it out

OK - got some of the VMS Smart Mud on order as it seems best suited for my needs. I think the Sculptamould would be better for "bumpy" scenery (and I have some ideas there involving a D30 Howitzer...)
Meantime I had another go with the Ultimate washes today. I used the "Mud" one all over with Vallejo "Dark Grey" on the muzzle to simulate the soot from the cannon firing. Hull still needs to be rubbed down with a wet cotton bud still. You can see the piece of wood I want to use as the diorama base.

Can be daunting adding washes Neil but when you start to remove some the details pop out and if you make a mistake that's ok, try again. I haven't used the Ultimate products but they get good reviews on here.

Nice work. Really like the tracks

Well.... I am calling the vehicle itself done for now. I just need to finish chamfering the edges of the base, give it a coat of varnish and then I ordered some Smart Mud to finish the diorama.
Got to admit those Friul tracks were worth the aggro - they sit and sag just right.

Little bit done today - got the base finished and given a couple of coats of varnish.
Most of the day spent going over a surveyors report on the place we are looking to buy - they had a grade of list of 1- OK - green, 2 - needs works soon - orange and 3 - red - critical. Most of the report was a lovely orange colour... Hopefully - he says with everything crossed - most is just the surveyor doing CYA 101.
Luckily we are buying through a firm called Homewise and they actually will own the building so they have a VERY vested interest in making sure its all OK and are dealing with the vendors.

Anyways - this is the base done. The Smart Mud also came today so tomorrow I will have a stab at that.

It has turn out really well Neil, good work mate

Hi Neil, Looking good mate, the stand is a perfect size. You should have a lot of fun doing it.
Looing forward to seeing how the smart mud performs
casp

Nicely done. I can almost hear the anthem!

Nice work Neil! I'm looking forward to seeing the diorama come together.

Got a slight delay - all the video's on how to use the Smart Mud say to use a flat brush -so I've had to order some from eModels. Not going to risk ruining what's going to be tricky enough job for me as a first timer by taking short cuts.

RangerNeil wrote: Mon Mar 29, 2021 9:12 pm Got a slight delay - all the video's on how to use the Smart Mud say to use a flat brush -so I've had to order some from eModels. Not going to risk ruining what's going to be tricky enough job for me as a first timer by taking short cuts.

I would recommend doing a couple of small batches in bottle tops to get a idea of how much activator to use or a small amount and then add more. Couple of drops in a bottle top with 1/3 full of powder should give a wet runny mud 4 will stiffen it up. I used a 1/2 egg cup full of powder and that was enough for a base.The mix is sensitive as to the finished result especially in very small batches.
It won't crack either when dry and remains elastic sticks like s^*t to a blanket once dry.

Cheers Digger I was wondering about this - I watched the VMS video on how to use it and was rather alarmed at the amount they used - looked like half the resin and virtually all the compound!!
I am thinking I need 2 batches - 1 small and runny for the vehicle and a larger, thicker one for the base. I find I am rather looking forwards to trying this out.

OK - I am calling this one done although every time I look at I think it needs something else - I just don't know what!!
More photos in the reveal section.

RangerNeil wrote: Wed Mar 31, 2021 10:03 pm OK - I am calling this one done although every time I look at I think it needs something else - I just don't know what!!
More photos in the reveal section.

Well done. I like the way you sank the tank into the mud so it didn't appear to be floating and speckled a bit around the hull. A great build.

Top draw mate