Global Scale Modeller

Let's hope that it happens before I run out of crap to talk about eh?

Last night I got the camo fixed up (I wasn't happy with it), partly weathered the tracks, painted the OVM tools, and started the exhausts.
Today sometime I hope to get to the rubber on the tyres.
Once that is done I can start moving toward decals.

Here's a few pictures and a video.









[youtube]Bbenc3wJWDQ[/youtube]

Looking good buddy! The camo looks great!

We'll see how well it looks after I beat the hell out of it with weathering and some mud.
Now that's camo.
I've also got a bit of a surprise for use in the diorama that I'm very excited about.
Let's hope that I don't screw it up.... firstly by blabbing about the surprise.

Nice work coen, cameo looks great, I'm sure it'll look even better once "battered"

Coen as I mentioned in your comments (presuming I made the edit ) your blabbering, waffling, or talking crap call it what you will is so easy on the ear it's a pleasure to watch and even more so, what you do along with many others on this forum speaks for itself

Facta non verba

Hi coen need some advice here. Is there any difference if I prime my king tiger flat black or hull red??
Btw I use Tamiya acrylics to paint my tanks

I take it from your question that are you not going to use standard "Primer" on your King first.
Then the difference would be determined by what effect are you looking for.

If you prime with flat black you'll be able to use the "Post shading" technique, this will allow you to let certain amounts of the black show a little bit through the base paint colour (for a King Tiger it's usually dark yellow) around the edges of panels and the base of objects attached to the surfaces. This will create artificial shadows and help accentuate details. I use this method most of the time. (Though I've never done it with Tamiya paints, I know other fellas that do and they don't have problems.)

If you go the route with the Hull Red then you can explore the "Hair Spray Method".
It takes some practice and it works best with Tamiya paints mixed with water but if done correctly the effect it beyond anything you could imagine.
It means that you'll have to highlight the panel lines and the attachment items with washes later though and that's a little bit harder to do but not much.

I think that I'd like to emphasize the importance of the "Primer" issue.
Primer for many modellers is as important as a good sprue cutter and just as useful.
Before you start painting you should explore whether or not you want to use it.
I don't use it because they stink... I hate stink, and I haven't needed it... YET.
I just didn't want to put you off the stuff until you looked closer at it.

I hope that answered your question Dude.
Sorry about the length... I tend to babble.

Did a bit of work this morning... and some babbleing.
I painted the tyres and gloss coated the panther.
I'll do some comfirmation checks on markings and I'll see about decals and turret markings tonite.

Here's a video. Waffle and Tyres for breakfast.

[youtube]IaydT0FLmzk[/youtube]

[youtube]3gOnbIb5xl4[/youtube]

Here's a few shots of where she's at. (she's not actually green... it's the lighting)
She's all painted and decaled, I've now started the oil weathering too.
I've placed her temporarily on the diorama so I can see how it will tie together.
So I took a few shot of her while she was there.



















Here's a few videos since the last update.
There's a lot, but I've been busy around the house and I tend to forget things, so I hadn't realised that I didn't link and of the recent vids.

[youtube]uO_BIDf-WLg[/youtube]

[youtube]496MbyJjT5o[/youtube]

[youtube]UKIxIAKyyNg[/youtube]

[youtube]NDKLGxm0Qsg[/youtube]

Shes looking good mate

She's getting there.

I'm gonna bet that yours is heavier though!

Coen wrote:She's getting there.

I'm gonna bet that yours is heavier though!

I think you could be right

Thanks a lot coen and nice job on the wonder dioroma setting.

You very welcome.
If it helped you in anyway then I'm happy.
I'll be making more in a bit, the diorama isn't finished yet.

Looks cracking mate and enjoyed your vids to mate well apart from the hour one will watch that when kids are in bed so I can hear it.

I didn't know that I had one that was an hour long.
I knew some were 20 or 30 minutes... sheesh.
You're a brave man for being willing to listen to my crap for an hour.

52 mins long mate I love watching you work mate learn loads

Now that makes my day Dude.
That's the whole idea.
Thanks!

Just watch the 52 min one half last night and half this morning she is looking GREAT mate and learning all the time.

This is looking really good, I like it.

We'll now you have something to bore yourself with the next night.
Apparently the one that I made this morning is about the same length.

It just takes so long to show the methods from beginning to end.
I don't want to cut them... for me, that was the point.
A video of a modeller modelling.

There great mate just have to watch them when it quite because with the kids about cant here you sometimes through my phone. Watch you read a bit of my book then sleep all good.

You might have already mentioned this but what did you use for the base the hilly bit is it some sort of clay/plaster?

The base is a piece of plywood 30x30 cm square and I think 5mm thick.
I took the corner blocks of wood out of a wooden box of oranges and used them for feet.
On top is the floral foam.
The stuff that I used is slightly different than the stuff that Russ used in his tank barrier breach diorama (if you've checked it out...WOW it's cool!)
Mine isn't as crumbly as his.
I carved the hills and contours out of that.
I coated that in white glue just to firm it all up.
I added the clay on top of that... that's where I changed my normal diorama methods to make up for the clay.
It was an experiment... and it turned out pretty good.
I'll use it again.
That's pretty much the entirety of the foundation of this one.

So the hilly bits are just carved floral foam with the clay spread over it.
The clay is really hard so I expect it will be really strong and last forever.

Yeah I've seen Russ's it's amazing. Thanks for that now I know lol

Great stuff here, Coen! Now I have to watch your videos!

Russell.

Nice work! I can't wait to watch the videos!

Take care,

Larry

You're both Mad Men...
stay away...
you'll go blind...
grow tumours....
Or worse...

Get bored and never watch another AAAAHHHHH!!!!!

Thanks Guys.
Don't die.

Hey Dudes,
Here's last nights update and a bit of work.


[youtube]rZcRjo_1UTM[/youtube]

Will be watching this later mate looking forward to it.

Another great video dude.

Hi Coen, great series, you mentioned in your latest vid that you added battle damage, what I was wondering was how you did this ?

I used to use the heated up tip of an old drill bit and gently twist it into the surface to do shell impacts on my tanks, it gave a nice almost conical impact look as you'd expect from an armour piercing shell.

Mine is a bit more complicated but easier to control.

I did the battle damage with my rotary tool
I bought one really cheap ($12 CDN 7 pounds or so) at a craft shop.
I ordered some tiny dental bits online... also cheap. (micro Mark)
I've had them for years.... it's pink.
I use the round grinder bit that is close to the size of the ammunition hit that I'm trying to simulate, then I just grind a small scoop out of the spot for the impact.
Then I'll switch to a smaller bit and do the same around the larger scoop to show the shrapnel hits.

In fact... in my next vid I'll demo it for you McLeod and do a "shout out" thing.
You'll see better than I can explain it here.

In fact if anyone wants me to demonstrate a tip or trick (and I know how to do it) just ask and I'll do a video of it.

Cool thanks man, just remembered I've got a black and decker multi tool, grinder/drill thingy in the cupboard somewhere, should be able to get some little bits to do the trick with that.

Check to see that its RPMs are lower than 5000. Higher than that melts styrene rather fantastically.
Mine is around 4500 and I slow it more with my finger.

Another great vid mate

Thanks Nige.
I'm hoping to get some work done today on either the chipping on the panther or start the snow on the diorama.
Children permitting.

Coen wrote:Thanks Nige.
I'm hoping to get some work done today on either the chipping on the panther or start the snow on the diorama.
Children permitting.

I recommend a cage

This is coming along very nicely. Love it.

Great vid on the battle damage by the way thank you.

Yeth mathter... I aim to pleath mathter.

My daugther is watching The Hunchback of Notredame... and for some reason Igor's voice from Frankenstein keeps popping in my head.

I'm glad you enjoyed the vid.

So progress report time.
I've managed to get up to the point of the dot filter or Mapping of the weathering.
It's actually done now.
I'll be adding a few layers of pastel chalks next then I'll attach the tracks. and add some mud.
After that it's snow on the diorama, then add the tank.

Here's a few videos of what's been done and a few tips and tricks along the way.

[youtube]nISc4jS8gU8[/youtube]


[youtube]N7JsIyBAJco[/youtube]


[youtube]HZcMbpo18lE[/youtube]

[youtube]U7fdwVIAyO0[/youtube]

Some more cracking vids mate might try and use some those tricks on the tempest

I'm glad Nige. It's nice to be usefull... I'm a good tool.

Great vids as usual matey, that dot filter is so simple and yet so effective. I take it you would use that instead of using something like a sin industries filter ?

I've never used any of the over the counter washes, filters, or pigments.
I'm going to try some on a build that I'm planning soon though. Never say never.

superb videos buddy and superb tank

Thanks Tiger... another survivor.

Excellent work Coen, top notch as always.

And thanks for all the vids bud (including ones on other threads etc), love watching them and I'm learning soooooooooo much