Global Scale Modeller

I know exactly what you mean. If I were to build a tank like that I'd be absolutely fine with detail like these already molded into the plastic. Jesus, I'd a need magnifying glass and hands of the size of my girlfriend's. Not her hands because she'd destroy the PE parts just the same.

This is a cracking build......more please

Homerlovesbeer wrote:This is a cracking build......more please

There will be more...

The tracks are finished
I have glued together the tracks with only a pair of guide teeth. I removed them again and glued the remaining guide teeth on.

Time to cover even more PE by installing the lateral boxes Many of you would have use a metal gun but I try it with the gun OOB Lollipop

Oh, no! All the work on these tiny fiddly PE parts and now they disappear? Argh! But top job on the kit, Kevin!

Yesterday I finished the next module. The track-cover and side-skirts. Again PE parts are installed, which are so small that the toothpick next to it looks huge... The building step, which do not include numbers, is by the way the exhaust...

The tow ropes should be 70 mm long... As desired by trumpeter, I have done it and had to find out, that they are to short
I can not lay these things as requested... now it's finally going to the paint !!!!
Let's start with the running gear...All parts were primed black. The rollers were painted with dark green (Vallejo) The tracks were painted with mouse-gray (Revell) Don't worry, even more layers will follow...

After I've assembled and painted running gear, I have attached the side covers. The aging of the running-gear follows later. All the parts that were range over the hull to the side-skirts last adhered... Now the last fiddely-work. The fuel-lines and everything is ready for painting

Design characteristics
The T-72 shares many design features with other tank designs of Soviet origin. Some of these are viewed as deficiencies in a straight comparison to NATO tanks, but most are a product of the way these tanks were envisioned to be employed, based on the Soviets' practical experiences in World War II.

Weight
The T-72 is extremely lightweight, at forty-one tonnes, and very small compared to Western main battle tanks. Some of the roads and bridges in former Warsaw Pact countries were designed such that T-72s can travel along in formation, but NATO tanks could not pass at all, or just one-by-one, significantly reducing their mobility. The basic T-72 is relatively underpowered, with a 780 hp (580 kW) supercharged version of the basic 500 hp (370 kW) V-12 diesel engine originally designed for the World War II-era T-34. The 0.58 m (1 ft 11 in) wide tracks run on large-diameter road wheels, which allows for easy identification of the T-72 and descendants (the T-64/80 family has relatively small road wheels).

The T-72 is designed to cross rivers up to 5 m (16.4 ft) deep submerged using a small diameter snorkel assembled on-site. The crew is individually supplied with a simple rebreather chest-pack apparatus for emergency situations. If the engine stops underwater, it must be restarted within six seconds, or the T-72's engine compartment becomes flooded due to pressure loss. The snorkeling procedure is considered dangerous but is important for maintaining operational mobility.

Interior
Like all Soviet-legacy tanks, the T-72's design has traded off interior space in return for a very small silhouette and efficient use of armour, to the point of replacing the fourth crewman with a mechanical loader. The basic T-72 design has extremely small periscope viewports, even by the constrained standards of battle tanks and the driver's field of vision is significantly reduced when his hatch is closed. The steering system is a traditional dual-tiller layout instead of the easier-to-use steering wheel or steering yoke common in modern Western tanks. This set-up requires the near-constant use of both hands, which complicates employment of the seven speed manual transmission.

There is a widespread Cold War-era myth, that T-72 and other Soviet tanks are so cramped, that the small interior demands the use of shorter crewmen, with the maximum height set at 1.6 m (5 ft 3 in) in the Soviet Army.[33] According to official regulations, however, the actual figure is 1.75 m (5 ft 9 in)

Respect, Kevin, for the patience to use all those tiny PE parts! From my bench there are parts just disappearing as large as truck wheels - never to be found again!!! What would it e like with these small parts? No way I'd ever build some kit like this, at least not the complete kit. But your T-72 looks just awesome!!!

Nice build, Love all the details you adding.

NonProlificModeler wrote:Respect, Kevin, for the patience to use all those tiny PE parts! From my bench there are parts just disappearing as large as truck wheels - never to be found again!!! What would it e like with these small parts? No way I'd ever build some kit like this, at least not the complete kit. But your T-72 looks just awesome!!!

Believe me when I say,I was more than once on the floor to find these small parts which are snapped away

Sheers Buddy

Zippo wrote:Nice build, Love all the details you adding.

Sheers Mate!!!

I can imagine that! That's not really funny, if it happens to parts one absolutely needs and that can't be replaced. I'm very good at losing those forever! Another reason why I'd go nuts with tiny PE! But the T-72 looks very good now! Jens

Looking great Jens.

Let's start with my first camo without masking!!!
First I have primed everything in black. I've made this my old single-action airbrush.
I started with the turret. First layer dark green (Sorry forgot to make a photo )
After that I added yellow-gray patches. Then black patches and camouflage finished. For the first time I am quite satisfied

Looking great Jens.

I know, but that's not my build, it's Kevin's!

The same technique I used for the hull

NonProlificModeler wrote:

Looking great Jens.

I know, but that's not my build, it's Kevin's!

I appreciate that praise of both of you!!!

Let's go with the detail-paintings.
to show all would take far too long, wherefore, I show only the most conspicuous...

What I really want to focus are the tracks. How do you paint your tracks?
As previously mentioned, I have painted mine black and and then sprayed gently gray over it.
Next came a wash in black and then a one in dark brown. At last a dry brush with aluminum.
Candid opinions are now desired. I can't change it here, but I can do it then better the next time.

Hi, Kevin! Since I don't build well maintained modern armour, I'm not sure if my way of painting tracks is of any use. But I'll share it with you anyway, hehehe! I use a very dark grey as base colour, then I give the tracks a grimy wash with raw umber oil and turpentine or mineral spirit. The latter dries much quicker. After that I dry brush the tracks with a dark brown enamel or acrylic paint. Depends on what is at hand. Then I use burnt Siena oil for a lighter rust colour. Last step is dry brushing the contact surfaces with a metallic grey or a little lighter paint. Sometimes I use a pencil for that and polish the areas with a soft cloth. After that the usual thing with mud and pigments. The oils make for long curing times, so that's not everybody's cup of tea. Jens

The lower edges of the sideskirts and the front and rear of the hull is a bit blackend with water and crayons. the decals shine like a bacon rind. I hope that the matt lack can work wonders...

I have applied different colored pin-washes... Various edges were accentuated with a pencil...
Finally, a last layer of clear lack and the tank is done!!!!!!!!!

Aaaaah, she turned out so nicely, Kevin! Very well done! Jens