Global Scale Modeller

I'm waiting for the Friul tracks to be delivered so I can see what looks the best of them and the kits before proceeding along that path so I thought I'd move up - in height - and make a start on the turret. The kit has no turret interior and when I posed one of the hatches in the open position as a test quite frankly it looked awful. So I have opted to go with the buttoned down look. Initially my thought was aT34 at rest/being re-armed but now I think I will go for one on the move with its tanks riders clinging on,,,,,
So - the turret thus far - the gun and mantlet are in place and the hatches, hinges and 4 x lifting eyes are on.... Plenty more to go yet. The upper hull makes a nice place to hold the turret whilst working:)

I see going for the hull down position.....

Nice to see you're still making progress on this mate - the cast texture on the turret sides looks good in the photos too

Tomcat64 wrote: Fri Oct 23, 2020 3:53 pm Nice to see you're still making progress on this mate - the cast texture on the turret sides looks good in the photos too

Many thanks - those tracks aside it is a really nice kit. I would say almost, not quite, at Tamiya levels.
Slow going right now as we are boxing the house contents up and putting the boxes/crates into a storage facility so the estate agent can take the interior photos. Damned hard work.....

Moving is the worst. I hope it goes as smoothly as possible for you.

RangerNeil wrote: Fri Oct 23, 2020 4:08 pm

Tomcat64 wrote: Fri Oct 23, 2020 3:53 pm Nice to see you're still making progress on this mate - the cast texture on the turret sides looks good in the photos too

Many thanks - those tracks aside it is a really nice kit. I would say almost, not quite, at Tamiya levels.
Slow going right now as we are boxing the house contents up and putting the boxes/crates into a storage facility so the estate agent can take the interior photos. Damned hard work.....

No fun at all to be had in the moving lark....maybe you might find some of those bits gobbled up by the carpet monster over the yrs.

Liking the brutal design of the old warhorse. Probably looked battered when they drove it out the factory!

Stokesy44 wrote: Sun Oct 25, 2020 1:09 pm Liking the brutal design of the old warhorse. Probably looked battered when they drove it out the factory!

Certainly crude by comparison to the Germans and Americans. Some left the factories unpainted and with raw crews aboard straight into battle at the peak of Op. Barbarossa.
Once COVID is over get along to an MV show and compare the finish on a T34 to the Sherman/Hellcat/Achilles. At first glance the welding looks appalling - BUT- it is strong and does the job. "Looking pretty" didn't feature in the Soviet mindset. More a case of how quick and how well. Attention to detail only appears where its essential - mainly inside the vehicle given how little training the conscript crews and mechanics got.

With the work schedules being imposed by Amazon I don't think I am going to finish this one by the deadline. Sorry folks.
I will keep plugging away until it is done though and post the results accordingly. Good news is the 0.4mm drill for the metal tracks arrived today so perhaps tomorrow I can spend Xmas day working on them seeing as COVID has killed the planned family get-together.

Managed to bag a couple of hours today so I had a go at the Friul track links. Going to need a LOT of patience on this one. Not least because the new 0.4mm drill was only long enough to reach half way - and broke on the 9th link - INSIDE the link so a bit of a problem to sort out. Anyways - got the first 10 links done in about an hour...... (only about another 100 or so to go....)

Yep - deffo NOT going to finish this by the deadline. Sorry folks. If its OK - I will keep on plugging away on here until it is done?
I have two more weeks left on contract, last working day is Feb 6th unless they decide to extend the contract - and at 64 years old I have to say that's virtually guaranteed NOT to be happening.
Mean time work continues on the Friul links. Got about 60 of one type drilled out now, got the rest still to do and all the other type before I can start assembling tracks. They do look good though -even before painting and weathering... I think it will be worth it.

Think I maybe battling to finish too, but that's not a new thing with me..

I had Saturday off again this week so cracked on a bit with the tracks today. I now have all 90+ inner links drilled through and have started on the 90+ outer ones - I have 40 of those done. Had to stop because my fingers and eyes were getting a bit sore. Got more house hunting tomorrow in the day but hopefully tomorrow night I'll get the rest of the outer links finished and the joining started after the links are washed and dried. It seems to be recommended to create lengths of 10 links, join enough of these links together until only one is left to complete the loop and then juggle the number of links in the last length to get a realistic fit so that's what I will have a crack at.




I am thinking (dangerous I know....) that it will be best to paint the track lengths before finally fitting them to the vehicle. This is new territory for me though so any recommendations for painting - and weathering - metal links will be most gratefully received.

This week is my last at Amazon - contract has not, AFAIK, been renewed so I will have time to to get on with the T34 next week.

That's a whole lot of work!

I've never done metal tracks but here's what I've seen. There are several companies that make burnishing fluid that will darken the metal itself to a realistic color and then you can use pigments or paint or whatever to weather them. I've also seen videos of builders just painting them like they would plastic or rubber band tracks.

BigWall wrote: Sun Jan 31, 2021 11:23 pm That's a whole lot of work!

I've never done metal tracks but here's what I've seen. There are several companies that make burnishing fluid that will darken the metal itself to a realistic color and then you can use pigments or paint or whatever to weather them. I've also seen videos of builders just painting them like they would plastic or rubber band tracks.

Thanks for the info BigWall - I will have a dig on the web for such stuff.
Yes, its a lot of work but I think it will be worth it. The kits plastic tracks are rigids and, to my eye at least, do not look natural. I am hoping Friul might do something similar for the Shilka - it will be even more work but if it looks as good as I think these will it will certainly be worth it.

With thanks to BigWall - I found this on YouTube:





And whilst looking I also found this if anyone is interested in trying Friul tracks for the first time:

Not sure if I would use my hold and fold in this manner. I'd be worried that the aluminum former would all get burred. A good way to do the job quick though.

digger303 wrote: Mon Feb 01, 2021 3:41 am Not sure if I would use my hold and fold in this manner. I'd be worried that the aluminum former would all get burred. A good way to do the job quick though.

The "Usher method" would not, I think, work for the T34 tracks as the pin dia is 0.4mm. Tapping anything that thin is guaranteed to bend it.
However if the pin dia is suitable you could have a couple of wood off-cuts long enough for the usual 10 link length hooked over the vice jaws to do the same job as the Hold and Fold. Might be a better solution as then theres no risk to the link esp. if the links have been individually burnished prior to.assembly??

OK - yesterday was my last day at Amazon - they did not opt to extend my contract further so I am now free to crack on with this T34. Their loss, the T34's gain!!

Next job is to finish the metal tracks off ready for fitting then its back to the main body and turret. Mean time I need to give a thought to this years builds.... Especially the out of comfort zone one.

I hope something comes along to keep you out of trouble and in the meantime Amazons loss is also our gain!

Paul

Quax wrote: Mon Feb 08, 2021 2:59 pm I hope something comes along to keep you out of trouble and in the meantime Amazons loss is also our gain!

Paul

Thank you kind sir!

So - spent today on and off finishing drilling out the Friul track links. Had to take a few breaks to give both eyes and fingers a rest but they are now all done and assembly can start.
Many times today I found myself wishing my little rotary tool from Lidl rotated the other way....
Here is the final drilled link:

Two days of punctured fingers and much cursing later I now have two completed tracks. Currently both the same length as they are not going on until the hull is finished. I might have to add or remove a link or two on one side depending on fit.



The good people at Friul are obviously well acquainted with the dreaded carpet monster as there are links left over as well as the wire for the track pins.

I tried one on the vehicle - and they DO look the business compared to the plastic that came with the kit!! I have to admit to being very impressed with the look of them - almost identical to the real thing as you can see here:

Friul links


Plastic links supplied with kit


I am so impressed that - despite the punctured fingers - I am going to order a set for the Shilka too!

yeas they do look very nice and if you drilled holes in your fingers I bet they hurt like a bitch ....experienced that I have.

digger303 wrote: Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:37 pm yeas they do look very nice and if you drilled holes in your fingers I bet they hurt like a bitch ....experienced that I have.

Not only that - it stopped the fingerprint sensor on the phone working!! I had to try and remember the pass number to unlock it... Luckily it was my old service number!

RangerNeil wrote: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:47 am

digger303 wrote: Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:37 pm yeas they do look very nice and if you drilled holes in your fingers I bet they hurt like a bitch ....experienced that I have.

Not only that - it stopped the fingerprint sensor on the phone working!! I had to try and remember the pass number to unlock it... Luckily it was my old service number!

A number of things stop the finger print sensor in it's tracks. dirt and grease/oil embedded in the valleys of a finger print. Also if you have done some physical work and the skin has been roughed up. I don't trust mine.

Need a bit of advice please folks - went to glue the pins and the superglue I had was dried up. What's the best recommended Superglue (Cycroanylate) for use with the Friul white metal tracks and brass wire please??

RangerNeil wrote: Fri Feb 12, 2021 11:42 pm Need a bit of advice please folks - went to glue the pins and the superglue I had was dried up. What's the best recommended Superglue (Cycroanylate) for use with the Friul white metal tracks and brass wire please??

It doesn't matter too much except it needs to be the thin stuff and make sure the surfaces are clean. Why I say it doesn't really matter is the it's a pin inserted into a hole and doesn't really have any stress applied to it once built unless your going to drive it around the kitchen table top. In my mind the cheap throw away Ca tubes would be fine in this instance.

Completed both tracks - super glue and trimmed last night. Got an email from Ultimate today saying the Burnishing Fluid will be delivered tomorrow so that should be interesting.
Cracking on now with the photo-etch that came as part of the bundle to complete the upper hull.

RangerNeil wrote: Mon Feb 15, 2021 3:13 pm Completed both tracks - super glue and trimmed last night. Got an email from Ultimate today saying the Burnishing Fluid will be delivered tomorrow so that should be interesting.
Cracking on now with the photo-etch that came as part of the bundle to complete the upper hull.

Give the tracks a good clean first as the tight little corners sometimes won't let the burnishing fluid to make contact and you end up with these bright shiny bits also move it around a little to let air bubbles release.

digger303 wrote: Fri Feb 12, 2021 11:56 pm In my mind the cheap throw away Ca tubes would be fine in this instance.

Yep it's way cheaper than buy these expensive CA's that you end up throwing away with most of it unused

Spent a few hours both tonight and last night working on the start of the photo-etch.... Rapidly coming to the conclusion 64 year old fingers with a touch of arthritis are not best suited to teensy weensy little bits of brass...
But - progress was made. And I give credit to Arma for having a sheet of plastic both sides of the photo etch so that itsy bitsy little bits don't ping off into the realm of the dreaded carpet monster...

These two seem to be intakes for the engine - I think the long ovals in the centre are meant to be cut out and I have no idea what the little holes are for - nothing is shown in the instructions (see below):


As they go inside the hull behind mesh grilles:


As shown in the installation instructions:

This covers some of the engine access panels:


And these were my biggest nightmare thus far - vision ports on the turret. I could barely SEE them once out of the sheet, let alone attack them with a file and sander to removed the nubs.


For those with an interest in such things these are the photo-etch instructions:

If you remove the long oval shaped bits does it correspond to where the grill would be. If so I assume you use it as a template to cut out the plastic. That's my guess, but the instructions could have been better.

digger303 wrote: Tue Feb 16, 2021 10:38 pm If you remove the long oval shaped bits does it correspond to where the grill would be. If so I assume you use it as a template to cut out the plastic. That's my guess, but the instructions could have been better.

If you look at the photo of the mesh cover on the rear deck Digger you can see long thin slots in the sides of the hull - these are the external apertures and I have 2-piece PE grilles to cover them. The bits I mean are physically within the hull. In truth once the hull is joined I think you will barely be able to see them.

It's looking great Neil!

Looking really good Neil, tracks are top draw Like you I've got a bit of a soft spot for Russian/Soviet armour, it my not be the very best but it works and works well in most cases when crewed with quality troops.

Wonderful work so far Neil. Those tracks really add a whole new level of accuracy to the build.

Ben

Another bit of the photo-etch done tonight - rear mudguards. Debating whether to use the front ones as that requires the ability to form a curve as opposed to just straight lines. Rest of the PE now is minor - and minute - items like grab handles, securing loops for straps etc.

You can do it Neil, Just use a soft surface and a roller about 1/2 the size of the circumference of the guard and roll back and forwards.

Tried my hand at a front mudguard tonight. Having trouble getting the curved surface to stay curved - not helped by the curve being progressive rather than a true circle. So I'm trying to work it in using my fingers as an English Wheel.
Looking at the photo below the next question that's going to come up is what's the best way to join the curved section of brass to the side wall?? I don't think adhesive will do it somehow, not even CA - so I am thinking maybe soldering is the answer??

I soldered mine cause I wanted to make it strong. You could use Ca, but you need to curve it more so that there is no tension between the two sides. Keep working the piece with a small roller such as a pen on a soft surface. Something firm you can press into. It is the surface that creates the curve. Very dense hard foam that isn't too thick can work.

Cheers Digger. had a go tonight - I used a sheet of thick kitchen paper towel folded up into a square and used a pen as roller. This is the end result:



I thought for a minute the soldering kit had gone into long term storage pending the move - but luckily I found it so the seams were soldered. Probably not very prettily but is seems to be holding.



So these are ready to go onto the hull after any tidying up and after the upper and lower hulls are joined.



Having done this a few more bits were done on the upper hull in preparation for the joining, First though I need to prime and paint the two PE sections that go inside the hull. Getting there slowly... Very slowly!!

Looks very good great job on the guards.

Very nice PE work there Neil

You can use a bit of tape to hold the sides in until you start soldering to. It's a bit hard to clamp opposing sides at times. Nice job .

Been focussed on the Shilka recently trying to get to the same stage as this T34. Yesterday was airbrush time for primer on both vehicles - and I was not a happy bunny with the results. However I tried a suggestion by Digger in the Shilka thread this morning and things got a lot better.
The upper hull is now in primer ready for topcoat as are the internal PE panels and the front hatch and rear grille. As with the Shilka these will now be left for 24 hours whilst the primer/thinner mix is allowed to dry thoroughly and the then 4BO Protective Green topcoat can go on. Hopefully by then Royal Mail will have delivered the Shilka tracks from Friul so I anticipate a couple of - probably painfully stabbing my fingers with wire - days assembling the Shilka tracks and then both sets can go into the burnishing fluid to see how it goes.
Anyways - here is the primed upper hull and other bits (the wheels are for the Shilka).

As with the ZSU-23/4 the first coat of 4BO Green is now on. Next step will be to assemble the upper and lower hulls together. Then the top coat of Green can be applied and the detailing added. We are getting there slowly - been concentrating on the Shilka the last few days.





I was going to have the front hatch open but as there is no interior detailing unless I can find a 1/35 T-34 driver in an entering the tank pose (grabbing the gun barrel, hoisting the legs up and swinging in) I might as well shut it

Spent my modelling time today working on the T-34 as I needed a break from the fighting that has become the daily ritual with the Shilka. It was a pleasure to get back to a kit with minimal sprue attachments and parts that actually fit together without battles!! Although there was one fight I could have done without - but that was my fault. More anon.

This is the state of play now. Hulls are ready to be joined, the various boxes that go on the upper hull are assembled and the hand rails are all on. I elected to use the kits rails because the PE kit only had the supports, I need to find some 0.6mm wire to act as the rails proper if I used them. And I think my fingers are too fat and too trembly now to be doing that - going by the fun I had assembling the tracks with 0.5mm wire!!


11A is a box that goes between the exhausts.
19A and 19B are boxes that go either side of the exhausts outboard.
9C goes on the R/H front wing.
10A goes on the L/H wing at midpoint.

Now - the fight tonight - all my own bl&$dy fault - whislt attaching the hand rails I managed to get a drop of superglue on one of my fingers and then touched the model a couple of times in the haste to put it down and get the stuff off. Took nigh on an hour to clean the surfaces and I was SO angry with myself for such a stupid, stupid, mistake...

Bugger is what I normally say in such circumstances...actually I lie it can be worse than that.

digger303 wrote: Tue Mar 02, 2021 5:32 am Bugger is what I normally say in such circumstances...actually I lie it can be worse than that.

It was worse - far worse!! And at volume too - which got me a rollocking from the wife as she was on the phone at the time....

RangerNeil wrote: Tue Mar 02, 2021 11:37 am

digger303 wrote: Tue Mar 02, 2021 5:32 am Bugger is what I normally say in such circumstances...actually I lie it can be worse than that.

It was worse - far worse!! And at volume too - which got me a rollocking from the wife as she was on the phone at the time....

I had a incident today. I replaced some orings near the regulator on a AB manifold. I did what I would normally do at work and put some lube on them (needle juice ) and thought no more of it. Went to spray paint today and now have fish eye's everywhere. Had to take the hose off, flushed it with brake cleaner, removed the manifold ( that was a stupid idea anyway) and hook the line back up to the regulator. Now I have to remove the paint which I will try with Scotts method using oven cleaner..... BUGGER bUGGER BUGGER...