Global Scale Modeller

Just look at that cast texture on the turret - looking great

Still working on the turret, this time it was the co-ax 0.30 caliber Browning that sits in a Heath Robinson kind of housing and mounts against the inside of the gun mantlet.

Quick question, I'm not a tank nerd, what is the point of a co-ax mg?



When I installed the bow mg, someone mentioned the cooling jacket details was a bit soft and I can't help but agree with them. Its the same on the co-ax (the parts are duplicated on 2 sprues), especially on the mold seam which runs top and bottom of the barrel. I had a go at drilling them out and it doesn't look too bad. You cant see the detail once its mounted but it means I can do the same for the bow mg.



Then it was time to mount the co-ax and the main gun.







The mantlet fits beautifully with the location lugs holding it nice and tight but also freely movable. The turret base is not yet glued.





Commander's hatch and cupola done.



Its workable which is great as I plan to put the commander in the hatch.



Lovely texture and detail as you can see.



A few more bits to do then I should be able to button up the turret, sort a few more greeblies then it could be priming time

More great progress - that breech assembly certainly looks busy enough - hopefully you can see some of it through the hatches.

The extra boring out of the cooling jacket was well worth the effort too.

Stokesy44 wrote: Sun May 19, 2024 7:30 pm ...
Quick question, I'm not a tank nerd, what is the point of a co-ax mg?
...

My assumption (which might be incorrect) is that it gives you close range infantry suppression for effectively 360 degrees; so for example if some sneaky git with a panzerfaust appears on your flank in a street you've probably got a better chance of traversing the turret than trying to swing the whole tank around to bring the bow gun into play. It also gives you the ability to engage in two directions simultaneously.

Tomcat64 wrote: Sun May 19, 2024 10:21 pm More great progress - that breech assembly certainly looks busy enough - hopefully you can see some of it through the hatches.

The extra boring out of the cooling jacket was well worth the effort too.

Stokesy44 wrote: Sun May 19, 2024 7:30 pm ...
Quick question, I'm not a tank nerd, what is the point of a co-ax mg?
...

My assumption (which might be incorrect) is that it gives you close range infantry suppression for effectively 360 degrees; so for example if some sneaky git with a panzerfaust appears on your flank in a street you've probably got a better chance of traversing the turret than trying to swing the whole tank around to bring the bow gun into play. It also gives you the ability to engage in two directions simultaneously.

Thanks for that. I had not thought of it being used for defense. I just wondered why would you want an mg to engage targets the main gun was being used for.

Drilling out the holes on the MG is a definite appearance pleaser.

Looking good so far. Also happy to see you enjoying the build.

digger303 wrote: Mon May 20, 2024 1:22 pm Drilling out the holes on the MG is a definite appearance pleaser.

DRUMS01 wrote: Mon May 20, 2024 9:05 pm Looking good so far. Also happy to see you enjoying the build.

Thank you both. Yes I am enjoying it. Its a very nice way to spend a few hours pottering along while still in the build process. I have decamped to the lounge (I'm single so no one to stop me!) for the build phase so I can work on the tank and have the sport on the TV. It does not get much better than that.

Only a small update today. The kit comes with an optional rain guard that goes over the gun mantlet. I have decided against using it because I like the details on the turret around the mantlet and I dont want to immobilize the gun.

However, if you leave the cover off, you have to add the cover fasteners. 22, yes 22 fasteners for where the rain guard attaches and they need to be added. After committing to the task, I figured out how to cut them off the sprues without them pinging off into oblivion. I cut out the section of sprue holding them (they were on the track sprues, 4 fasteners on each of the 6 sprues) so I could get at them with my nippers, then very carefully I eased them off the sprues. Then it was glasses off time and getting my eyes to within inches of each lug to trim off the cutting marks.

When I first looked at this option I couldn't see any location points on the turret and I thought, bugger, this is going to be a pain, but then I looked closer and I saw there were tiny little square reference marks on the mantlet and turret so it was just a case of dabbing with the little TET and adding the fastener, making sure they were the right way up as they were slightly tapered.

Here's the result and I'm well pleased.



There's still a few more bits to do and I MUST order some olive drab paint!

Decamping to a more favourable position seems imminently sensible. I recently bought a trolley ( wow ) so I would stop using the top draw of the bench in the open position as extra desk space. It made it really hard to get to all the draws under that top one. So I had this thought of a trolley that when not in use I could slide in under the bench....probably never happen, but it has made access so much easier although a little cramped to get around. The missus has finally on seeing this condescended to the position that I really do need more space than I am currently allowed to have. How long before I get it ?? This is me rambling a bit ..sorry, but the idea is it also makes decamping and relocating a breeze.




I cut the legs down to make it fit under the desk and bring it to a good working height while seated. Very sturdy.

digger303 wrote: Wed May 29, 2024 10:13 am Decamping to a more favourable position seems imminently sensible. I recently bought a trolley ( wow ) so I would stop using the top draw of the bench in the open position as extra desk space. It made it really hard to get to all the draws under that top one. So I had this thought of a trolley that when not in use I could slide in under the bench....probably never happen, but it has made access so much easier although a little cramped to get around. The missus has finally on seeing this condescended to the position that I really do need more space than I am currently allowed to have. How long before I get it ?? This is me rambling a bit ..sorry, but the idea is it also makes decamping and relocating a breeze.




I cut the legs down to make it fit under the desk and bring it to a good working height while seated. Very sturdy.

Excellent McGivering there!

So would we call this a modeling nesting table?

Turret halves now connected and filled.





I also sanded and filled out the folds in the commander's upper left arm. The jacket was far too creased where the rank and unit patches need to go for them to be applied properly. US patches were quite thick and the uniform would have conformed to them, not the other way around.

Still needs work but its getting there.



The kit comes with a turned aluminum barrel for the 76mm cannon. Problem is (as with a lot of metal barrels) it gives the tank a serious case of brewer's droop.



To counter this I added a sprue lug on to the top of the gun breach so the gun can only depress so far before the lug hits the interior of the turret roof. The gun also effectively pulls the turret out of its ring at the rear because its a free form sitting ring - there are no retaining lugs. To counter this I added my own lug to the exterior rear of the turret ring, small enough so that when the turret is lowered, rear first, into its ring on the hull, the lug slips under the ring on the hull and engages when the front of the turret drops into position. The turret is locked in position but can be easily removed by pulling it out, front first.









The commander figure can be posed in the hatch or by the side of the vehicle. I think I'll show him outside so more of him can be seen.

Super nice as always

That looks a long barrel for a standard Sherman - more like the 17 pdr in a Firefly???

RangerNeil wrote: Wed Jun 05, 2024 6:06 pm That looks a long barrel for a standard Sherman - more like the 17 pdr in a Firefly???

Hi Neil,

The Easy Eight was equipped with the 76mm high velocity gun, not the shorter barreled 75mm that came before it. The Firefly's 17pdr is fractionally longer (I think).

Stokesy44 wrote: Wed Jun 05, 2024 6:27 pm

RangerNeil wrote: Wed Jun 05, 2024 6:06 pm That looks a long barrel for a standard Sherman - more like the 17 pdr in a Firefly???

Hi Neil,

The Easy Eight was equipped with the 76mm high velocity gun, not the shorter barreled 75mm that came before it. The Firefly's 17pdr is fractionally longer (I think).

Thanks for the clarification Stokesy. I'd only ever seen the 75mm on Shermans before this, didn't realize they'd been upgraded at a later date to a longer barreled 76mm.

With the build effectively complete it was time to work on the joins for the turret and the rear of the hull.

Here they are before primer

Turret





Rear plate





On with the Ultimate Grey Primer

Happy with the rear plate





And the turret. One side will definitely need a sand and some more filler





Once that's done, I'll mask off the periscopes and glass in the cupula then apply the grey primer all over. Then its out with the 5 gallon cans of olive drab!!!

All those welds really help to give it a lift, but seams can be a pain to fill especially where the filler covers detail.
Love the bolts too at this scale you can actually see if they are 6 sided or not at my scale they are mostly blob like in nature.
Paint her up please

I agree with digger in that I really enjoyed the details such as the serial numbers cast into parts, the welds, bolts, wing nuts, cast texture, etc. that in most cases cannot be replicated in the same detail in smaller scales. When I built mine I partially seems like I was building a real miniature or scale replica of the real thing.

Keep up the great work....

digger303 wrote: Mon Jun 17, 2024 10:12 am All those welds really help to give it a lift, but seams can be a pain to fill especially where the filler covers detail.
Love the bolts too at this scale you can actually see if they are 6 sided or not at my scale they are mostly blob like in nature.
Paint her up please

DRUMS01 wrote: Mon Jun 17, 2024 11:47 pm I agree with digger in that I really enjoyed the details such as the serial numbers cast into parts, the welds, bolts, wing nuts, cast texture, etc. that in most cases cannot be replicated in the same detail in smaller scales. When I built mine I partially seems like I was building a real miniature or scale replica of the real thing.

Keep up the great work....

Thanks for the interest gents. I have definitely found the scale to be to my liking and you're right, there's something about the plastic that makes it feel less like a model and more like a replica (if that can be a distinction). I find the casting marks curious and I wonder why the makers added them, its not as though the parts could be misidentified!

As far as the casting numbers, I believe they had something to do with numerous vendors making interchangeable parts and the American National Stock Number (NSN) system. With hundreds of thousands of various parts for numerous vehicles being made by several vendors in a massive scale, they could tell that it belonged to a specific model Sherman tank versus something else. Obviously, not all of the 100 people touching the part during manufacturer, shipping, storage, maintenance, etc. will know one widget from another widget.

As for turret and chassis serial numbers, I think it was for the same reason all military vehicles including aircraft have a serial number. The turret number can tell anyone which contractor made it and when. That way for payment or if there is a problem, that can be traced down to the manufacturer, time, location, lot, etc. Thats my thoughts....

Ben

DRUMS01 wrote: Sat Jun 22, 2024 1:54 am As far as the casting numbers, I believe they had something to do with numerous vendors making interchangeable parts and the American National Stock Number (NSN) system. With hundreds of thousands of various parts for numerous vehicles being made by several vendors in a massive scale, they could tell that it belonged to a specific model Sherman tank versus something else. Obviously, not all of the 100 people touching the part during manufacturer, shipping, storage, maintenance, etc. will know one widget from another widget.

As for turret and chassis serial numbers, I think it was for the same reason all military vehicles including aircraft have a serial number. The turret number can tell anyone which contractor made it and when. That way for payment or if there is a problem, that can be traced down to the manufacturer, time, location, lot, etc. Thats my thoughts....

Ben

Thanks Ben, it makes sense, I guess, given how mass produced the Sherman was.

On with the build. I had another go at the turret joins as they were showing rather rudely after priming. The primer sands really well after a week curing and I amanaged to get the levels much better. When I was happy I painted TET on to the areas that had been sanded smooth then patted glue while it was tacky to create some texture. After a light sand it was ready for priming.



It was this side that needed the most work



Here's how they look after priming again



Just a little filler needed to the left of the lifting ring.



I did the whole vehicle as there didnt seem any point in getting set up then cleaning it all down if I still have to do the main prime. I masked off the various vision ports with Micro Crystal Clear.







So, next is just a little bit of filler then time for painting

Looking sharp.

Stokesy44-You are doing very good work here! From the photos it appears to be a very impressive kit.

Phillip1

Phillip1 wrote: Thu Jul 04, 2024 6:23 pm Stokesy44-You are doing very good work here! From the photos it appears to be a very impressive kit.

Phillip1

Thanks Phillip

Half a gallon of olive drab last week then it was on to the detail painting yesterday and this morning.









The wood work is just primed so far, staining is still to do























Next up are the decals then a matt coat then its on to the effects and all that good arty stuff!

Pretty sweet. The work done on the 50 paid off imho.

Looking at the - apparent - size of that beast I get the impresson its not a job for an airbrush but a full size paint gun!!
An excellent job though - congratulations!
How "badly" are you going with the weathering???

Stokesy44-I agree the paint job looks good but the 50 cal. looks great!

Phillip1

Lookin good so far.

Fun isn't it?

RangerNeil wrote: Sun Jul 07, 2024 6:12 pm Looking at the - apparent - size of that beast I get the impresson its not a job for an airbrush but a full size paint gun!!
An excellent job though - congratulations!
How "badly" are you going with the weathering???

The next option up for a way of painting it would have been the old 'grenade tied to a paint drum' approach but I couldn't face the clean up.

As for the weathering, she aint going to the prom, I can tell you that much!

DRUMS01 wrote: Mon Jul 08, 2024 12:15 am Lookin good so far.

Fun isn't it?

Yep. Just as it should be. I'm really liking this scale and level of build sophistication.

Awesome work on sorting out those troublesome seams - especially on the turret.

The paint job looks lovely & smooth - she'll be all set for the mud bath soon

She's going to be a dirty girl....

Apologies for the lack of recent posts. I've been super busy with work leaving me exhausted for evenings and weekends.

I have been moving the kit forward though. Decals have gone on, no drama but I'm kicking myself for not cutting the first star decal I applied right to the edges to remove the carrier film. You can see it on the front of the hull.
Some touching up will solve the problem but it should never have happened.

Next up was 'matalising' the hull. I heavily applied olive drab cut with yellow using a dry brushing technique to really scuff the paintwork and highlight any edges, joins and bolt heads. The end result is not just a highlight of detail but an added texture to the hull that gave the base coat much more weight and depth. Problem is I didnt take any pictures at this point so you cant see it until later in the post

Then it was on to the wood texture of the tools. Primed with Ultimate gelb (now discontinued) I worked the wood sections with oils. I also did the same for the plank supplied in the stowage set that goes on the front of the hull.





And here they are installed. And you can now see the effects work on the hull too







And here's the panel on the front of the hull.



Next up is oils for the hull which will be dot filters and individual staining around the fuel filler caps and the engine deck.

Still rolling along and enjoying it. What more can you ask from a hobby?

Don't work too hard mate gotta have something left in the tank for the hobby and us

Very nicely done. What did you use to go over the grey on the tools ?

Awesome job on the woodwork mate

Hope work sorts itself out for you soon - you don't need that kind of hassle distracting you from the bench!

Tomcat64 wrote: Mon Aug 05, 2024 7:29 am Awesome job on the woodwork mate

Hope work sorts itself out for you soon - you don't need that kind of hassle distracting you from the bench!

digger303 wrote: Mon Aug 05, 2024 6:05 am Don't work too hard mate gotta have something left in the tank for the hobby and us

Very nicely done. What did you use to go over the grey on the tools ?

Thanks Gents. For the tools I finished them off with Vallejo model air black. I'll dry brush them for wear and to make them all 'metally'

Just a small update. Started on the dot filters using tan and white and a little dark brown.



Then blended using a flat head brush and thinners



So far I've done the turret and the hull sides, upper hull is next including the engine deck.

Nice work again mate - that's taken some of the "newness" off the paint finish & started adding depth already

Oh this is going to be good

Stokesy44-Very nice weathering and paint finish fading!

Phillip1

Had a pleasant few hours working on the oils for the hull. I finessed the sides and rear panel a bit more, having worked on them last week, then I turned to the engine deck and also the long mudguards.





You can see the staining on the mudguards.









Rear deck.





Next up will be the tracks, priming then painting before effects.

Kevthemodeller wrote: Fri Aug 09, 2024 9:53 am Oh this is going to be good

Phillip1 wrote: Fri Aug 09, 2024 1:40 pm Stokesy44-Very nice weathering and paint finish fading!

Phillip1

Thanks Gents

The paint faded well and the rain streaks are nice and subtle.

It's just going to get better

digger303 wrote: Mon Aug 12, 2024 4:42 am The paint faded well and the rain streaks are nice and subtle.

Kevthemodeller wrote: Fri Aug 16, 2024 8:15 am It's just going to get better

Too kind Sirs, too kind.

After a hiatus caused by a spot of ill health I finally got back to the kit this morning for some mud work. I used my trusty Tamiya Snow Paint cut with Vallejo chocolate brown and Khaki. The intent was to muddy up the lower front hull and the running gear.

This is the result of a couple of layers. The snow paint reduces as it dries due to its high water content so I may add a further layer for coverage.



Running gear and little on the edge of the fenders too.





Everything will be dulled down with a dark wash once I'm happy with the coverage.





I haven't primed the tracks yet so that's still the next job. I also need to examine the stowage set from Valuegear and do any cleanup that's required before priming. I also need to come up with the layout of how the stowage will be shown on the rear deck.

The buildup of mud around the lower hull & running gear works really well with the faded paintwork - coming together nicely mate

I primed the tracks with Ultimate Black Primer then painted the metal sections with Vallejo Metal Color Steel. They looked so good freshly painted that part of me wanted to keep them like that!





I started by dry brushing light tan on the pads to show wear and dirt

Before and after shot



Then I used rust effect paints from Mig to discolour the metal sections. I will enhance this with pigments on the sections that show once the tracks are on.



I then attached the tracks. I'm really pleased with how the upper surfaces look, the highlighting has really knocked the black colour back and made the tracks look old and dusty. I can add mud effects once I'm sure of the positioning.









I'm happy so far but still much to do. I'm just glad the tracks are now on the kit as they have been silently mocking me every time I see them!

That's a really nice effect you achieved on the outer surface of the tracks. I can't quite grasp how it was done, but really nice.