Global Scale Modeller

Mitsubishi A6M Zero



The Mitsubishi A6M Zero was a long-range fighter aircraft, manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, and operated by the Imperial Japanese Navy from 1940 to 1945. The A6M was designated as the Mitsubishi Navy Type 0 Carrier Fighter, or the Mitsubishi A6M Rei-sen. The A6M was usually referred to by its pilots as the "Reisen" (zero fighter), "0" being the last digit of the Imperial year 2600 (1940) when it entered service with the Imperial Navy. The official Allied reporting name was "Zeke", although the use of the name "Zero" was later commonly adopted by the Allies as well.

When it was introduced early in World War II, the Zero was considered the most capable carrier-based fighter in the world, combining excellent maneuverability and very long range. In early combat operations, the Zero gained a legendary reputation as a dogfighter, achieving the outstanding kill ratio of 12 to 1, but by mid-1942 a combination of new tactics and the introduction of better equipment enabled the Allied pilots to engage the Zero on generally equal terms.

The Imperial Japanese Navy Air Service ("IJNAS") also frequently used the type as a land-based fighter. By 1943, inherent design weaknesses and the failure to develop more powerful aircraft engines meant that the Zero became less effective against newer enemy fighters, which possessed greater firepower, armor, and speed, and approached the Zero's maneuverability. Although the Mitsubishi A6M was outdated by 1944, design delays and production difficulties of newer Japanese aircraft types meant that it continued to serve in a front line role until the end of the war. During the final years of the War in the Pacific, the Zero was also adapted for use in kamikaze operations. During the course of the war, Japan produced more Zeros than any other model of combat aircraft.

General characteristics

Crew: one
Length: 9.06 m (29 ft 9 in)
Wingspan: 12.0 m (39 ft 4 in)
Height: 3.05 m (10 ft 0 in)
Wing area: 22.44 m² (241.5 ft²)
Empty weight: 1,680 kg (3,704 lb)
Loaded weight: 2,410 kg (5,313 lb)
Powerplant: 1 × Nakajima Sakae 12 radial engine, 709 kW (950 hp)
Aspect ratio: 6.4:

Performance

Never exceed speed: 660 km/h (356 kn, 410 mph)
Maximum speed: 533 km/h (287 kn, 331 mph) at 4,550 m (14,930 ft)
Range: 3,105 km (1,675 nmi, 1,929 mi)
Service ceiling: 10,000 m (33,000 ft)
Rate of climb: 15.7 m/s (3,100 ft/min)
Wing loading: 107.4 kg/m² (22.0 lb/ft²)
Power/mass: 294 W/kg (0.18 hp/lb)

Armament

Guns:

Divergence of trajectories between 7.7 mm and 20mm ammunition

2× 7.7 mm (0.303 in) Type 97 aircraft machine guns in the engine cowling, with 500 rounds per gun.
2× 20 mm Type 99-1 cannon in the wings, with 60 rounds per gun.
Bombs:
2× 60 kg (132 lb) bombs or
1× fixed 250 kg (551 lb) bomb for kamikaze attacks

Videos

Walkaround:

[youtube]RZ3frIAZG4s[/youtube]

From the cockpit:

[youtube]R6W9MBK1gJI[/youtube]

Take-off:

[youtube]iTAOEh4uY5Y[/youtube]

The Kit















In the main the kit is nicely moulded but there are a few unfortunate EPM on the visible side of the rear cockpit bulkhead.

good luck with your build!

That's a good kit! A friend of mine is building one also, he really likes it.

I'm hoping to try weathering it - it will be my first attempt, so fingers crossed...

Not much progress as I have been tinkering with other builds, but I have managed to build the cockpit. I added a bit of weathering using a piece of sponge and silver paint. The kit supplies 3 nice decals for various dials on the dashboard.





I have decided to model the plane in flight so I need the pilot. They have supplied their generic WWII pilot which is a let down after the quality of the rest of the kit



As you can see the life jacket is the allied style you would see on British and allied pilots. The Japanese life-jacket is similar in design to the German one.



I used a bit of Squadron green stuff, waited until it dried and then scribed some vertical lines using the tip of a needle-nosed diamond file.



The instructions would have you fit the pilot at the very end of the build just before fitting the glazing. I have had many bad experiences doing thios so I decided to fit it before I sealed the body up and I am glad as he is too tall to fit. I chopped of his feet about half-way up his shins and he is now happily seated in the cockpit.

A long overdue post!

I kept putting of masking the canopy - all those tiny panes kept putting me off - so for the first time I stumped up for an Eduard masking set. Am I glad - hell yeah - sanity (or what little I have) remains

They fit really well with only one or two seeming to be a little too large, but not so much that I felt that I should try to correct them. The instructions are really good and they were simple to apply. I will definitely be using some in the future on other canopies that I just can't face.

My 'distraction'

I wasn't that impressed by the fit of the main body though...

Nice egg plane....smoking table cloth as well

Canopy fitted

I decided to paint the part of the fuselage in front of the cockpit with the exterior colour as the canopy overlaps and I've been bitten by this before and left with a wonderful piece of virgin plastic visible through the visor



It's not that obvious from this picture but the cowling is off slightly - I thought it was seated perfectly when I glued it but it is off by a degree or so Maybe one day I'll build an error free model...

She's looking nice when undercoated:



I also undercoated the wings of an Airfix Helldiver that I had knackered some time ago so that I can practice my chipping technique without risking the Zero.

Heh cool. I'm about a week away from starting my build of this Zero. It will be my first model I've attempted in 20 years so it will be hillarious to see how badly I screw it up

Aargh

Guess who just realised he forgot to paint the canopy with the interior colour before he undercoated it

looking good, what primer did you use?

I don't think that having the 'inside' of the canopy grey instead of green will make too much difference

I use Halfords plastic primer

Silvered in preparation for beginning weathering. I plan to give the AK Interactives Worn Effects fluid tomorrow on one of the Wings of the Helldiver. I plan to use Humbrol enamel so watch this space It claims to be able to work with enamels but I have some Tamiya paint coming in case it doesn't work out. The article on its use in 'The Weathering Magazine' uses Tamiya so I know that should work.

Well I had my trial at chipping using AK Interactives Worn Effects fluid. I sprayed it onto the wings and then left it for a couple of hours to dry. I then sprayed a light coat of thinned Humbrol 75 on top one of the wings.



I left that to dry for about and hour or so and then firstly used my J's Work Scratching and Chipping effects pen. I found this was great for taking the paint off of the tops of the rivets but I will need more practice on a flat surface.



I used an Army Painter Stipling brush dipped in water on different parts of the wing. I found this could give some interesting effects and using the edge of the brush I could get much more control of the results. The brush is nice and stiff which really helps.



If you look at the pictures you can see a lighter zone around the area removed. This was where I used a wetter brush and didn't use just the edge. I don't know if this was caused by the paint being too thin or maybe not left to dry enough - although you are not supposed to let the paint cure. When it comes to the Zero I will make sure that I have a thicker and more consistent coat of paint.

Good stuff! I've started my build so I'll learn from your mistakes (I hope!).

I'm up to painting the cockpit. I manged to break my control stick when cutting off the spru...doh!

Homerlovesbeer wrote:I manged to break my control stick when cutting off the spru...doh!

Funnily enough I did exactly the same

Luckily it was easy to fix

Well I tried to weather the underside using the Worn Effects fluid but I knackered it due to using the wrong brush and also leaving the paint to dry too much before trying to chip it

I've decided to revert to plan b and just paint the entire plane in its case colours and then 'chip' the old fashioned way with some silver on a brush and sponge and maybe a silver pencil.

I had one of my usual disasters when removing the masking for the underside - I broke the top of the antenna off

Looking good, can't wait to see it finished.

all the best
Dave

Decalled and awaiting satin coat before washing the panel lines. I had one decal silver a little so I applied more Revell Decalsoft but that failed to clear it up as it usually does so applied another coat of Decalsoft and using a pin pricked throughout the silvering immediately after in fast motion like I was trying to tattoo something and the Decalsoft got in and sorted it all out

Looks like your almost finished, I'm penciling you in as one that will complete, right?

Well here's my first ever attempt at weathering a plane. It looks better in the picture than in real life!

eightfooticeman wrote:Looks like your almost finished, I'm penciling you in as one that will complete, right?

All being well will be finished within next couple of days

James

Looking good! How did u weather it?

Homerlovesbeer wrote:Looking good! How did u weather it?

I applied some MiG panel line wash and then using a brush and piece of sponge applied the 'chipping' with some water-based silver acrylic paint. I did want to use some Worn Effects fluid but I couldn't seem to do it correctly

Cool,

I'm up to the weathering stage as well, I just need to put a coat of clear on, then weather followed by a final mat coat.

Not meaning to thread hijack at all but here are some pics of my Zero as of yesterday. I hope you don't mind









Thanks!

Looks nice - seems a shame to weather it. I didn't really want to weather mine as I do like the factory fresh look but I thought I'd try something new.