Global Scale Modeller

Fact
In 1939 at the outbreak of WWII the Swedish air force was in a very poor state.
Re-armament was down prioritized and neglected. There were only a few squadrons and they were equipped with out dated planes like the Gloster Gladiator. When it was realized that war was coming it was too late. All the planes on the SwAF wish list were no longer for sale since the US and GB were preparing themselves for the war to come.
In desperation second rate planes were bought wherever they could be found.

Reggiane Re 2000 (J20), Fiat Cr.42 (J11) and Caproni Ca.313 (B16/S16) from Italy and the Seversky (Republic) P-35A (J9) from the US.
Now there were planes at least, but in the face of war with Russia, Nazi Germany or the Allies, neutral Sweden would have little or no chance to put up any defence. We desperately needed a good fighter!

The only “modern” plane in domestic production at the time was the SAAB B17 dive bomber. And it was already becoming out dated. The twin engine fast medium bomber SAAB 18 was on the drawing table as well as the FFVS J22 Fighter.

During 1940 and 1941 final attempts were made with Germany to purchase the new DB605 engine and the Bf 109 fighter, both to be built under license by SAAB. Things went back and forth, the Bf 109 was out, and the Bf 210 was offered, then the Bf 109 again and so on.

What happened? There was no deal and Sweden never bought the Bf 109 or the Bf 210, however the deal on license production of the DB605B went through. This engine equipped both the SAAB 18 twin engine bomber and the later SAAB J21.
Roosevelt and Churchill closed the door on export due to looming war and GB being at war.
So no US planes other than 60 Seversky P-35A (105 ordered). 144 Vultee 48C Vanguard were also ordered but stopped.
Neither any Spitfires nor Hurricanes from GB.
This led to the decision to put both SAAB 18 and the FFVS J22 Fighter in production. Both turned out to be great planes.
About 200 J22 were produced and 245 SAAB B18.

But…WHAT IF?
The deal on the Bf 109 went through in late 1941, to be license built by SAAB starting early 1942?

From here on this thread will be pure Fiction!!!

To be continued...

Lets start by taking a look at the kit!

This kit is a follow up to the Zvezda F-2 kit. From what I have seen in reviews this F-4 kit is an improvement.
The plastic is perfectly moulded, including all the beautiful details.
Also, Zvezda have included lots of parts, You can build all variants of the Bf 109 F from the F-4 kit!
It is very much up to scale and all the important detail are there suitable for this scale. In contrast to the Eduard 109 G for example, which I personally think is a bit over done. (one example being all the minute riveting which You can hardly see on a full scale plane)

The kit, beautiful box art of an F-4 from JG54 over Russia. (decals are included for this individual)


The outer box open at the sides and inside You find a very sturdy cardboard box with a flip up lid. The sprues are not bagged, but everything is packed in a way that its very hard for stuff to rub on each other. Clear parts are separately packed in a zip bag.


As with the rest, clear parts are there for all versions and variants. They are detailed, crisp and very clear.




You will see all parts through the build, below just some selected details.
Wheels are very nicely done.


The kit comes with a fully detailed and absolutely beautifully moulded engine, and it can be displayed in various ways depending on which hatches You use and how. Here is some details.




Nice IP, decals for the instruments are included.


Insides of wheel well and gear tunnel, very nice with dust covers including stitching.




Radiators, look at that detail!


Don't know why exactly but spinners for 109s seems to be very very hard for all manufacturers to get right. This one is very good and has the correct tear shaped openings for the blades as well. Add some rivets if You like and its perfect.



A very nicely detailed pilot figure is included, good work Zvezda!


Even the shoe laces for the boots are all there!


Decals...they are OK, not great..but ok. The weak point in an otherwise amazing kit.
They do not stack up to Cartograf of course but if Your not a total Bf 109 nut like me, they will be sufficient to build a nice model.


As for the instructions we will talk about them later. I find them ok, but then I know this aircraft inside out. If You don't, or if Your a beginner modeller...I think they can be a little challenging.

In summary
The best "Friedrich" so far. The Hasegawa Fs are still good, but this is better.
Now...in this kit, You get a beautifully moulded and in scale 109 F. You get the parts to build all versions and variants, including under wing gun pods, bombs/bomb racks, drop tank. F-2 tail (w reinforcements) and F-4 tail. You get a fully detailed DB 601 engine (beautiful), and You can build it with hatches closed, or with other hatches with inside detail open, or a combo. And a very nicely detailed pilot is included.
Here comes the crazy stuff...You can buy this kit for 12,50€!!!
Examining this kit in detail, and now half way through the build, I propose this to be one of the best value and quality for money kits ever produced!
If Your into planes and 1/48, BUY THIS KIT...NOW!
If Your a 109 fan, buy a bunch! I did...

Finally, after experiencing this Zvezda 109 F, Im all feverish from expectations on the coming follow up 109 G kit due this year.

On with the build...

The build part 1

Ok, so why a what if build?
First because I'm a WWII guy, my main interest. Second since I'm an airplane guy. Third since I'm both Swedish and love the Bf 109, and it was very close to becoming a reality that Sweden bought it.
Why the F? Looking at the historical timeline, I believe this would have been the model licensed to Sweden. At this point the G model was under design and the same for the DB 605 engine. I find it hard to believe that the Germans would sell us their very latest and greatest upcoming fighter. If we were a allies, maybe. But Sweden was neutral. So the F is more likely. And I'm sure SAAB would have built the final version (F-4) with all the initial problems solved. The F was rushed into service and initially there were loads of problems. A number of pilots paid with their lives as they were discovered. The most commonly known is the issue with vibrations that led to the tail section coming off in flight. Hence the reinforcements.
Also I needed to build something I love and have some fun. The F-15 sucked my energy and I need a re-fill before I finish it off.
And since I plan on building a lot of Fs this will be a great way to get to know the kit.

Im NOT following the instructions step by step, but follow my own way...


Decals for this one will come from my Swedish stash, examples below.


I'm starting with the wings...
There are some internal detail to go in, You can have one panel open underneath if You want to super detail some internals. The well is built from two parts, then there are some ribs and spars.




Hatch closed since I will use the gun pods...


Wing tips slot in at the ends. There are two variants included, use the one You like. Positioning light differs, no right or wrong.


Fit so far is perfect, be careful when cleaning parts not to remove to much material. The engineering is fantastic and fit is exact. Remove just to much and You create a gap! (Yes I did on the hatches) "trust the plastic"


Main fuse is two halves and a tail section again in two halves. Then You slot the rudder in.


Again, perfect fit!


To illustrate the great fit, the fuse just taped together and tail just stuck in place.

I will not display the engine on this one, but You need it built to the state as seen here since its a integral part of the construction.
The firewall has the gun cover sticking into the cockpit half on one side and engine/MG related details on the other.
Must say, the engine parts fit like a glove and its a real gem.




The cockpit has some nice detail where it counts, and great potential if You want to scratch build more detail.
Want to highlight one thing here...the back wall has no alignment tabs. Glue it in place and while curing use the slot in the side wall of fuse as a template to secure a perfect angle. (don't glue just align!)




Right side, some nice details included, as in the ones You actually can see.


Time for some priming/painting.
Hubs painted gloss black, also primed cockpit in gloss black. This creates natural shadowing and helps details pop out. And the prop hub.
Tires and prop blades then painted rubber black, steady hand not to over paint the gloss parts.
Then Gunze RLM 66 as base for the cockpit, sprayed to bring out some shadows and tones. Easy way to make it all come to life a bit.


Tips masked off since they will be sprayed white and then yellow (Swedish plane)


Glossy and wet, gloss black makes a nice "things made of metal" base.


Here You see the included detail in a good way.


RLM66, and kept the black on some black details.


Sorry for focus problems forgot to switch between macro and auto in some pics...




Done


To avoid spraying the RLM66 on the instruments and to get tonal variation on the IP... 0,15 needle and steady hand.


Time for some detail painting, Vallejo model color is good, but I think Citadel are even better.


Skipped the decals and painted the interuments. Again out of focus...


In this process I also dry brush lightly and apply some washes.




More or less done...had a Eduard PE belt laying in the spares, one of the short belts pinged off never to be found, so made a new one from Jammydog tape


To be continued....

Looking great so far, looking forward to the updates

that looks so much better than the Airfix version, and I thought that was really good, I'm now going to have to build another 109!

This is one beautifull kit sir, the details are really incredible.
I scrolled back up to see if it wasn't a 1/32 scale one. (true story...)

The build part 2

Will describe how I built the cockpit firewall and nose section when I sum it up at the end.
Let me just say that its clear to me now that the closed engine cowling (traditional) option is in fact the optional way to build this kit. Now understanding how this kit is engineered...using trial and error, test fitting different options, trust me, the closed option is a handful!
I can also say that this kit is very modular, with lots of detail parts, which makes it kind of complex. I would not recommend this to beginners or modellers who want a "straight forward, follow instructions, step by step, no fuzz" build. When I look at this kit now, and the instructions, You need experience.
If You try to follow the (not so straight forward and clear) instructions You will likely NOT succeed with the closed option.

Ok, firewall and protruding "motorkanone" cover done.
(instructions say install MGs, don't work, snipped to be installed later)


Cockpit done including fuse cover parts.


Engine done (closed option). The exhausts are glued in one by one. Pay close attention to the instructions here since two out of six on each side are unique with alignment holes. Be sure to line them up horizontally.


Otherwise these covers will not align properly. And as a consequence neither will the upper cowling halves...


Nose done to a state I was happy with.


Wing section on. With careful test fitting and sanding You get a pretty nice fit. I was left with an equal 1mm gap both sides.
But its a "nice" gap, as in easy to fill and sand.


Alerons, flaps, cooler flaps will all be in typical parked positions.
This means ailerons in neutral (flush wing), flaps drooped 30-40 degrees, bottom cooling flap drooped slightly more, and upper cooling flap in any position from full up/open to full down/closed. (front cooling flap neutral/up)
The gap/opening in the root covered with plasticard (to be sanded) since this will show with flaps in down position.


I know many modellers not familiar with the 109 are asking a lot in forums about the position of flaps and cooling flaps. (Same on 109 F, G, K)
Here is how it works...Bottom in pic = aileron, neutral in parked, middle in pic flaps 0-40 degrees, usually quite drooped, often max as in 40 degrees, top in pic cooling flaps, any position ok, most commonly bottom flap max drooped, upper in any position it was left in.


a=radiator, b=lower flap, e=front flap, c=wing flap.


Upper cooling flap in up position


Upper cooling flap in full down position


Typical parked config.


Kit parts are moulded as frame and bottom flap in one, and flap in closed/up position. The good thing is that its moulded with a gap to gently cut and force the flap in any position You like!
Below im just holding it in place.


Will have the upper flap in either up position so one can see into the radiator.


Or fully down...


This is where I am now, also done with research to come up with a "special" paint scheme!

that looks amazing! I truly love what you have done with that cockpit. stellar work! I'm going to have to get one of those kits now too!

Lots of good information and some excellent building going on, Patrick.

ZZzzzzzzz...
What!?! Oh yeah I have a build going on here...

Thanks guys for the kind comments, now lets go on.

Change of plans!
This is a nice 109 F kit, no doubt, scores really high in the accuracy department and with nice detail where it counts.
BUT! This kit is intended to be built with open cowlings displaying the engine.
It is a real handful to build and get it right buttoned up!
Went and searched some other builds with closed cowling and all bear the same witness as me.

So...decided this is not the perfect "what if" kit, this is "serious $hit"

Will still do this 109 what if and have ordered a more suitable kit for that project.

This will instead be, a Bf 109 F-4 Lufwaffe WWII

Next challenge, to many fantastic camo options!
The coolest and most beautiful 109 camos can be found on E and especially F models in my opinion.
Bought a load of decals and am now choosing between these two:

A number of F-4s where diverted from Africa to Russian front, they were factory painted in RLM79 (sand brown) and RLM78 (Light blue)
Of course this camo was no good in Russia so they were re-painted in the field into this beautiful scheme where they kept some RLM79 and RLM78 underside. Added RLM71 (dark green) and RLM75 (middle grey). Then there are also RLM04 (yellow) to break it up.


Or this classical Graf scheme in RLM74/75/76 with its RLM04 nose, spinner, wing tips and theatre band. The mottling is very "dirty" and wonderful.


Hmmm well see...

As for some build progress...managed to prep the canopy (The front canopy part is just a little to wide!) and also to mask it.
(the lower front corner is intentionally left unmasked since this was metal not plexiglass on the right side)




Oil cooler painted and weathered


All the cooling flaps and slats are prepped, filled, sanded and ready to be sprayed with RLM02 on the "inside".


Supercharger intake on, cockpit touched up and washed, here the gun sight is curing.


Some RLM02 just brushed on the insides of coolers, will barely be seen when all the flaps are on.

Build update

Insides of stuff painted RLM02


Some really nice detail starting to show up!


Canopy glued and prepped


Oil cooler on


"Inside" of canopy RLM66, also checked the joints. All fine but wing roots needs juuuust a little more.


This is always a little "exiting", this time, win!


Next up, priming!

I'll follow the thread of anyone who buys XF-83 by the box.

Excellent work on a nice kit. I like that canopy technique... I'll have to borrow that one.

heel wrote:I'll follow the thread of anyone who buys XF-83 by the box.

Excellent work on a nice kit. I like that canopy technique... I'll have to borrow that one.

Hehehe well, Im fed up with all the "primers" they want to sell us, so went back to acrylic paint.
With a well prepped surface both Tamiya and Gunze are quite strong, or...strong enough.

Thanks mate!

Ok, got a little carried away last update...

Forgot the radiator flaps...now on in the position I mentioned in previous post. Also fixed some minor stuff.
NOW! next up is priming and pre-shading.

Very nice work so far!!

I've heard lots of good things about those kits and your WIP proves they were right. Maybe a future buy

keep up this great work and enjoy

Goose

Thanks mate!

Got the underwing cannons on (Oops almost forgot them), they were so and so to build, but had an ok fit on the wing.
There is a tab on the gondola to slot in/guide in a hole in the wing. To get a good fit this tab has to be sanded down until its almost gone.


Left one needed a tad filler on one side.


Finally cleaned up and ready...


Done

Aahh at last the fun begins... PAINT!

Ok, decided on this one, just love the grimy/dirty RLM74/75 mottling on the light blue RLM76 sides, broken up by the Yellow.


Some pics of the real thing back then...






Started with prepping for the Yellow with white




The pre-shading for the Yellow parts with RLM79, also base for exhaust soot.


Also added brown as base for grime/fuel/oil.


Then RLM04, sorry used flash and lost most of the pre-shading in the pics...




Masking time!




Pre-shading almost done




Added som more soot


RLM02 in the wheel wells


And on the leading edges where the slats go


Pre shaded spinner and fixed prop which was black except tips who were to be yellow in previous plan, now all black. Will act as primer before RLM71.


This baby goes in the standard RLM74/75/76 scheme


Will dry overnight so I can start to mask and continue painting...

Came back, sat down looked it over...Realize that hmm this does not look right, the RLM04 on the wingtips should be broader, extending another panel inwards. Crap!
Ok, re mask, re load, re spray!


This is how it should be...sigh.


Next Im thinking that hmm the RLM76 is not very opaque, the Yellow overspray will shine through.
Ok, re load with primer and get rid of it!


Much better!


Ok, re mask, stuff the wells and of we go with the RLM76 (finally...)


Done! Again sorry, I'm taking pics with the phone and it cant cope with the lightning very well...in real life there is more pre-shading coming through.


Trying a different light, hm maybe a little better.


Also the sides up to where the RLM74/75 comes in.


Next, starting the camo!!

Very fantastic build so far. I am liking the how much is in this kit. I may have to add another 109 kit to the stash.

I'm speechless, impressive work, this is pure school to me.

A small worm of white tac


To hold the slats in place when painting


Starting with the lightest color, in this case the RLM75, nowadays I'm doing all camo by hand without masking.
It looks more realistic I think. And everything is easier when taking the masking out of the equation.






For some post shading/bleaching I use a lighter shade of the color. Just trying to match it with a lighter grey here.
Also I double the thinner in what is left in the cup.
I just put some drops in the cup, mix, test, and so on until Im happy.


Hmm You cannot really see in in my crappy pics...


The I repeated the process and sprayed the RLM74




Also finished the mottling looking at all the reference pics I could find.








Next, look it over when dry, see if I need to do some touch ups or so. Then painting the spinner, prop, and un mask and post shade the yellow, and also post shade the whole plane again (panel/rivet lines etc) with my "grimy WWII mix"

Moving on...
Was very happy and relieved to see that the masking worked...overspray with darker colors on yellow is doom.
Everything was ok and no need for touch ups!
Also I now understand why the pics are crappy in that the detail disappears some.
Most of the Gunze paints Im using are not matt, but satin. Add wet paint and it reflects the light pretty good.
This shininess is to much to handle for my phone and tablet.




The "WWII grime" mix is created, 90% thinner, I sprayed it on the napkin so you can see what it looks like.


First I just used Gunze soot black to create gun soot, exhaust soot and oil leakage.
Then mixed in brown and green to grime up the mix and went over panel and rivet lines, hatches, caps etc.
Also painted the spinner and prop. Added som metal to gears and prop hub with Gunze metalizer chrome with brush, will buff it later.






That concludes the paint stage...only some detail parts are now left to paint.
Now everything will dry until tomorrow and then I will gloss it for decaling and weathering...

Ok, glossed it w Tamiya, first time I used it, quite thick, my 0.15 needle did not like it, mixed it 50/50 w X20A, worked ok.
All the big decals are on, next round the stencils.
The decals were a little tricky, some thin and the balkenkreuz very thick. In general they started to respond to Micro Sol after 4-5 coats.
Balkenkreuz needed 10-15 coats to wrinkle up and conform nicely.

Stunning work mate.

She looks Great !! Love the paint scheme Well Done !!

That,is some serious painting sir Specially love the mottling.
I agree that free hand looks great, but somehow I always make a mistake here or there. So I will stick to taping up.

Colours look great with the decals

ohhhhh yeah that's looking good! loving the paint work but please explain about the lack of masking? Are you saying that they should have feathered edges on the splinter? I never do the camo pattern exactly like the instructions, but I would like to get the basics right.

Thanks a lot guys for the kind comments, much appreciated!

CJSomerset wrote:ohhhhh yeah that's looking good! loving the paint work but please explain about the lack of masking? Are you saying that they should have feathered edges on the splinter? I never do the camo pattern exactly like the instructions, but I would like to get the basics right.

CJ sorry for late reply!

Hmm without going into very lengthy...
Its up to You!
Seriously, if You think the later in the war the more "camo-ish" patterns. As in early war cocky and here we are and factory correct.
Late war, holy crap we are under constant attack we need to keep these planes out of sight.

Another factor is used how, and where...i.e. eastern front, long way from home, heavy usage LOTS of re-painting in the field.
Luftwaffe aircraft were meticulously painted at the factory, using tamplates and masking.
Once in the field they were without exception used until shot down, crashed landed, or used up/scrapped.
Repaired and re-painted (for various reasons) over and over.
That's what is so wonderful modelling german warbirds I think, I love the RLM colors, and the schemes and variations are endless.

In conclusion, a Bf109 fresh out of the factory early in the war, would have quite sharp edges to the camo patterns.
Then gradually be re-painted in the field and get a more "soft" pattern.
Mid/late in the war, camo was a top priority due to constant attacks everywhere. From here everything gets more "blended" and "mottled".

One has to look at references, get a feel for it, and use artistic license to create something that YOU think look good.
That's all that's count, as long as YOUR happy, its good!

Some examples of 109s

patrickroos wrote:That's what is so wonderful modelling german warbirds I think, I love the RLM colors, and the schemes and variations are endless.

I followed a brand new Skoda Yeti through town the other day and I swear it was painted in metallic RLM 02. It looked fantastic! But strangely no one else in my car seemed to be impressed by the Skoda's colour scheme.

Do you reckon that every airfield mechanic would have had access to a compressor and spray gun?

I'd have thought that the aircraft would have come out of the factory with nice feathered edge camouflage which would then have been repeatedly brush painted when repaired. But this is obviously not the case.

And I Swear I saw a Mini in PRU blue in the parking at work, same here, work mates just looked at me in a funny way!

Not much progress...but got the (first?) wash on, took the easy route with a clay wash.

Ok, after some different washes, Tamiya pastels and chipping...small parts left before I seal her up in a matte coat.

Stunning work Patrick and a great thread to read through. Great stuff

My God Pat what a brilliant build, I'm learning loads
It's interesting that you don't mask your camo painting, would you not mask a RAF scheme for example? Oh yeah, what matt cote will you use Patrick?
I'm loving this thread mate

newpapajack wrote:Stunning work Patrick and a great thread to read through. Great stuff

Thanks mate!

Joesdad wrote:My God Pat what a brilliant build, I'm learning loads
It's interesting that you don't mask your camo painting, would you not mask a RAF scheme for example? Oh yeah, what matt cote will you use Patrick?
I'm loving this thread mate

Oooh have not responded to this...feel like an a$$ and I'm very sorry mate!!
And thanks for Your kind comments.

The standard RAF scheme...outline it with a pencil, freehand it or probably white tac worms.
LW camo are mostly straight lines, so either freehand or just a straight paper to hold against the surface.
However, some parts of LW camos are sharp angles, no way around that other than masking.
Same goes where colors border, like the yellow parts on this bird.

I'm using Winsor & Newton Matt UV Varnish.
http://www.winsornewton.com/uk/shop/oil ... le-3030930

patrickroos wrote:

Joesdad wrote:My God Pat what a brilliant build, I'm learning loads
It's interesting that you don't mask your camo painting, would you not mask a RAF scheme for example? Oh yeah, what matt cote will you use Patrick?
I'm loving this thread mate

Oooh have not responded to this...feel like an a$$ and I'm very sorry mate!!
And thanks for Your kind comments.

The standard RAF scheme...outline it with a pencil, freehand it or probably white tac worms.
LW camo are mostly straight lines, so either freehand or just a straight paper to hold against the surface.
However, some parts of LW camos are sharp angles, no way around that other than masking.
Same goes where colors border, like the yellow parts on this bird.

I'm using Winsor & Newton Matt UV Varnish.
http://www.winsornewton.com/uk/shop/oil ... le-3030930

No worries Pat.
I've stared trying Testors Dullcote Lacquer, it's ok I guess, I might try some Windsor then. What's the thinning ratio bud? Just in case...

None! Looks white and thick, but don't worry.
Just shoot it straight from the bottle...
Lay down in nice thin coats.
(25psi -ish)

Stunning work!

Missed this thread for a while, lots to catch up on. Fantastic work Patrick she's a beaut.

Brilliant build.

Thanks Guys!!

Just back from vacation and will now finish her off.
Stay tuned...

Ok...coming to a closure.

Re glued the upper cooler flap that had come off, and the right LE slat that had also came off...


Apparently had not sprayed the outside of the gear doors , so this was the last spray painting on this model, RLM76
Also weathered them.


These are what's left now in terms of major parts to attach.

All flaps on, wheel covers on, painted the back lip of the oil cooler intake RLM04 (to be weathered), drilled out the gun port in the spinner and painted black, tail gear on. Some minor chipping on prop and other with Prismacolor pen.
Next gear on, matte varnish and the final bits and bobs.

Paint and weathering look outstanding ! Well done ! !

Thanks!!!

Getting close now, finally on her own feet!
Prop/spinner is such a snug fit I will not glue it.
Ok, antenna, wire, tail wheel and aileron counter weights left before the final matte coat.

Wow, very very nice!

Ok guys, that's it!
All details are on and painted up, only thing left now is the matte coat and antenna wire which I will do last.
Will post pics in my album when done. (today or tomorrow)

Reflections:
-A very nice, detailed and scale wise accurate 109 F

-Detail is very fine and care has to be taken not to obliterate it in the process, which can easily be done. (just like the newest Eduard kits)

-In this kit You get the options to build all versions and variants of the "Friedrich", as such there are lots of parts, many similar. If Your not familiar with this subject I can easily imagine this to be somewhat confusing. See next point.

-The instructions, are not very clear and not broken down in easy to follow steps. Not always clear either exactly which parts to use.

-The kit comes with a complete engine (very nice) and the option to display it. As I painfully discovered this is NOT an option but definitely the primary way to build it, and how it was engineered. Closed cowlings is in fact the option and it feels like an afterthought from the designers.
So be ware, building it closed up requires some experience and extra work! (and swearing )

-Plastic is ok, crisp but soft, no margins so one have to be gentle when sanding etc. (I over sanded some parts) Also melts easy so only use a minimum of (hot) glue!

-Overall fit was ok, no really big issues. (unless You go for closed up option)

-Clear parts were surprisingly nice, however the fit...requires some careful test fitting and sanding. The front canopy part was to wide. (two was included same on both)

-Main gear is another one that requires some extra attention, there are no fat locator pins to attach leg to fuse. So You have to watch it as it cures to secure it stays in correct position.

-The big weakness are the decals...forget them and get aftermarket up front! (I did on this one)

-A nice pilot figure is included but no seatbelts, rec. getting aftermarket up front.

To summarize this build:
-A very nice, detailed kit that accurately depicts the Bf 109 F (F-2 and F-4) and all its variants. And at a ridiculously low price!!
-I have bought two more and will build them displaying the engine!
-It is not a shake n bake weekend kit. You need to take some care and time to get it right.
-Due to the number of parts, many similar, combined with the not so clear instructions and the level of detail involved gives that You need some experience. I would not rec this kit to a beginner modeller.
-Don't go for a closed up engine department build if Your not willing to spend lots of extra effort! (my hard earned lesson with this one )

Thanks for all the kind comments and for watching this thread!

Very nice! I have one in the stash too.
Thanks for the tips and remember to peel of those masks!