Global Scale Modeller

Hello Guys,

This will be my third entry into the "1/32 Big Bird Buddy Build" - the Revell 1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IIa


Introduction to the kit:

The Box Art:








The Box Contents


The Box Contains 3 clear bags of light grey sprues; 5 in one bag, and 4 in each of the two other bags making a total of 13 light grey sprues. There is another small clear bag containing 3 small clear sprues. There is a 12 page black and white assembly/painting and decaling instruction booklet that includes two options of paint scheme and squadron markings, and lastly, a sheet of cartograf decals;





Sprues A + B:











Sprues C + D + D- NO, that's not a mistake, but it is one by Revell of Germany!! I have two sprue D's which are the portside upper wing sections and no Sprue E which is the starboard side upper wing section! Aaaarrrrrggggghhhh!!! I went to Revell's website to order the missing sprue E and it can take up to 8 weeks to be delivered from Germany!!!!!????!!!! Bloody hell!!














Sprue F











Sprue G











Sprue Q








Sprue T





Sprue S (x2)





Sprue H (x2)





Clear Sprues I, R + U

















A 12 page black and white Assembly/Painting and Decaling Instruction Booklet


Front Page 1 and Back Page 12





Pages 2 + 3





Pages 4 + 5





Page 6 + 7





Pages 8 + 9





Pages 10 + 11





The Decal Sheet





The molded parts are very crisp and clean with zero flash apart from a couple of little areas. The parts have nice fine recessed panel lines and lots of rivet details. The clear molded parts are very clear with zero aberrations except for one side of the sliding canopy which is slightly "glazed".

The decals are excellent looking with zero carrier film beyond the decal edges.

The black and white instruction booklet appears to be clear and concise, but the two paint and decal options would be better in color. The color call outs are in Revell colors only.

I will make a final report when the build is complete indicating any issues that I come across. In the meantime, thanks for taking a look and I hope you enjoy following along with my build.

In the meantime, if you'd like to see my "in-Box-Review" video for this kit, here is the link:


[youtube]SWiiFXlU6zA[/youtube]


Let the build begin!!

Cheers
Martin

I will follow along, always happy to see another Spit come to life
Hey, that guy in the video has a funny English accent
I figured by now you would be speaking Amaarican

Twokidsnosleep wrote:I will follow along, always happy to see another Spit come to life
Hey, that guy in the video has a funny English accent
I figured by now you would be speaking Amaarican

Thanks for watching and following along, much appreciated

Yes, the English accent still prevails- I don't want to lose it because American women love it and it's gotten me into some "trouble" in the past!

Cheers
Martin

Revell 1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IIa "Build Update #1"

Well, chaps, during the last week, I managed to get some work done on this build, but during the build, I came across another issue that prevents me from going any further; more on this as we get into this update....


As always, I started off by washing the parts and letting them air-dry. I then started the assembly off by fitting the wheel well wall sections into the lower wings, followed by gluing the portside upper wing section into place. I couldn't fit the starboard side upper wing section, because as discussed in my "In-Box-Review" it was missing from the kit and instead, there were two portside sections...











Next, I assembled the halves together for the ailerons, flaps, elevators, horizontal stabilizers, wing-tips and rudder and after they were done, I assembled the halves for each exhaust stack...














Next, I moved onto the undercarriage by assembling the wheel halves together followed by the wheel struts/axles and wheel doors...














I then assembled a couple of air-intakes and glued them into their corresponding locations on the belly of the fuselage and beneath a wing...

















After that was completed, I temporarily stuck the spinner and back-plate together using putty and inserted a cocktail stick in preparation for painting. I then glued some small blisters onto the sides of the front ends of the fuselage halves...











I was ready to start painting, and so I started off by airbrushing a black base-coat onto parts followed by interior green...








I then airbrushed aluminum onto the propeller spinner assembly, the propeller blades, radiators and wheel struts followed by painting the spinner Sky color and the propeller blades black toned down with white...














I could now make a start on building and detailing the individual sub-assemblies of the cockpit and place the two instrument panel decals into place...














Following the cockpit sub-assemblies, I moved onto the fuselage side walls...

















This next step is where the second issue with this build became apparent. I assembled the rear wheel and then went to glue it into the portside fuselage half and was shocked to see that the tail end where the wheel was to be fitted was distorted as if it had melted due to heat!!! AAAaaaarrrggghhhhhh!!!!! I was bamboozled, how did this happen? I have been modelling at a table next to a large bedroom window to aid my poor eye-sight with the direct sun-light, as working at the dining table was causing me eye-strain. The average Vicat softening point of Styrene is around 97`C and the melting point around 210`C!! Could the 93`F sunlight have been magnified by the window enough to do this? And if so, that type of heat is enough to start a fire! But, this was the only area affected, no other parts on the table suffered and neither did the plastic table they were all sitting on? It's a strange one?!! Anyway, I ordered a replacement portside fuselage half following the starboard side upper wing section that I ordered last week, but I have to wait 8 weeks for them to be delivered from Revell Germany...














The last thing I did was to mask the tips of the propeller blades and paint the yellow tips on. I then glued the propeller assembly together permanently...








This was as far as I could go, and so, I laid everything that I completed onto my table and took photos of the progress so far...




























I'm not going to lose any sleep over the two issues and will continue with this build when the replacement parts arrive from Revell Germany. in the mean-time, I will move onto my next build for this Sig- the Eduard 1/32 "Weekend Edition" Messerschmitt BF109E-3. Look out for my "in-Box-Review" for this kit, coming soon!

In the meantime, if you'd like to see my YouTube "Build Update #1" video for this update, then here is the link for that...


[youtube]6WW3OHnKniQ[/youtube]


Thanks in advance for following this build thread, leaving comments and watching the update video, much appreciated!

Until the next update in 8-9 weeks time, happy modelling and have fun!

Cheers
Martin

Revell 1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IIa "Build Update #2"

Hello Chaps,

Well, after completing my Eduard 1/32 BF109E-3, I couldn't wait another 3 to 4 weeks for replacement parts for the missing upper wing starboard side and the damaged portside fuselage half, so, I just bought myself another kit! When those parts finally arrive from Revell, Germany, I'll have another full kit in the stash, but, I'm giving it away as a prize to a group build that I have been hosting on YouTube since May 1st and which ends on August 31st.

Anyway, that aside, continuing on from "Build Update #1" I airbrushed a clear coat onto all the parts that I had previously painted in preparation for cockpit decals and for applying a dark dirt wash and some chipping:

















After finishing the cockpit decals and wiping off the excess of the dark dirt wash, I then gathered the cockpit tub parts in preparation for building the cockpit assembly:








I started the assembly by fitting the pedals and steering column sub-assembly into place, followed by fitting the seat assembly and rear bulkhead:

















I then applied a matt clear coat to the cockpit assembly and the starboard side fuselage half, and when dry, I then moved onto fitting the starboard side cockpit wall section, followed by the portside wall sections around the cockpit interior assembly:




















It was time to take the two parts from the new kit that I needed to complete this kit that I was working on. So, I took the starboard side upper wing section and the portside fuselage half from the kit and airbrushed a black base coat onto the areas that are visible. When that had dried, I then airbrushed a interior green onto the black base coat, and, when that was dry, I airbrushed a gloss clear coat in readiness to apply a dark dirt wash and some chipping:



















I had to remove the oxygen cylinders and the radio parts from the original portside fuselage half that got damaged and glue them into this new fuselage half. After that, I applied a dark dirt wash, allowed that to dry for 30 minutes, then rubbed the excess off with Q-Tips leaving some on to give a desired effect:











After that was completed, I sealed everything in with a matt clear coat, along with the cockpit door, radiator housing and the flaps:





It was now time to assemble the cockpit assembly into the starboard side fuselage half. I used super-glue to fix it solidly and quickly:




















When it was set, I temporarily taped the fuselage halves together and dry-fitted the fuselage assembly into the wing assembly to see how it fitted. It fitted well on the starboard side, but on the portside, there was a gap at the wing root to fuselage joint:











I removed the tape from the temporarily fitted assemblies and then glued the starboard side upper wing section onto the lower wing assembly, followed by gluing the two fuselage halves together and taping them until the glue had set:














When the assemblies were set, I then did a second dry-fit of the fuselage into the wing assembly, and as before, there was still a gap on the portside at the wing root to fuselage joint. I cured this by cutting a piece of sprue to a length that I could push into the fuselage assembly between the cockpit tub side panel and the portside wall section. This forced the wall section outwards enough to close the gap when checking again with a dry fit. Once happy with how it fit, I glued the piece of sprue in place with super glue. I then glued the fuselage into the wing assembly. A little filler was required on the underside where the rear area of the wing assembly joined with the fuselage assembly:













Next, I glued the belly and air intake assembly onto the underside of the nose of the aircraft:








This was followed by gluing the portside and starboard side wing tips into location. There was a small gap on the starboard side that would require some filler:











I then assembled the ailerons, the horizontal stabilizers, the elevators and finally, the rudder:














I'd now gone as far as I wanted to go for this update, and so, I laid everything out on my table to see how everything looked;




















Well, that's it for this update, and until the next one, if you'd like to watch my YouTube "Build Update #2" video for this build, here is the link:


[youtube]TLyeM8M-jZU[/youtube]


Thanks in advance for following this build, watching the video and leaving comments, both on here and on YouTube!

Until the next update, happy modeling and have fun!!

Cheers
Martin

Revell 1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IIa "Build Update #3" (9.1.15)


It's been almost a week since my last update, and since that one, I've progressed quite a way! Below describes my journey from where I left off at "Build Update #2" and where I'm presently at with this build....

With the plane built up, it was time to mask in readiness for priming. I temporarily located the wheel bay doors with putty, taped the ailerons into their locations. I then fitted the underside lens and masked the center of it with liquid masking solution. The wheel wells were then masked with damp tissue followed by masking the cockpit with damp tissue, too. I then cleaned the plane down with Isopropyl Alcohol to make her ready for the primer;

















After all the masking and cleaning was completed, I airbrushed Model Masters Grey Primer onto her:








When the primer was dry, I then airbrushed silver onto the areas where paint chipping could occur, both on the top and bottom surfaces:







I allowed the silver to dry then I airbrushed a clear coat over it to seal and protect it and allowed that to dry overnight. The following morning, I decanted hairspray into my airbrush cup and airbrushed it over the silvered areas.











When the hairspray had dried, it was time to move on with pre-shading, starting with the top side and moving onto the underside:










The pre-shading dried very fast because of how well thinned it is, and so, I was able to quickly start masking the plane in readiness for airbrushing the underside Sky color, along with the tail band. I used Tamiya XF-21 Sky toned down around 25-30% with Tamiya XF-2 Flat White. I then added more white to what remained in the cup and airbrushed some highlights on top:














This was allowed to dry for 3 hrs before I airbrushed a gloss clear coat onto the Sky painted areas to seal it all in;





I allowed the gloss clear coat to dry overnight, and the following morning, I created my "full-sized" paper masks from the views shown in the painting guide. To do this, I measured the distance from wing tip to wing tip on the model and did the same on the plan view diagram shown in the paint guide. I then divided the larger number by the smaller number to get a scale factor which was 2.36x. Using the zoom function on my photo-copier, I then copied the views on the paint diagram and increased their size by the scale factor of 2.36 magnification. First, I created the starboard side fuselage paper mask, followed by the portside fuselage, the starboard wing and the portside wing upper views. I was now set to cut the patterns out to mask the plane for the upper camouflage colors;

















I wanted to airbrush the Dark Earth brown color onto the plane first, so, I cut out the "Dark Green" camouflage areas from the paper masks and stuck them down to the plane in their corresponding locations using Tamiya tape folded over to create "two-sided" tape. I then airbrushed the "Dark Earth" color over the exposed areas. I used Model masters Dark Tan 4709 toned down 20% with Model Masters Flat White 4769 and thinned about 40% with Tamiya X-20A. After completing airbrushing that mix onto the plane, I then toned the mix down further with more white and then airbrushed highlights on top of the previously airbrushed "Dark Earth":











When the paint was touch dry, I carefully removed the masks and checked how the paint work had turned out. I was happy with the result:








I allowed the Dark Earth paint to dry for 3 hours before I started masking for the Dark Green color. I cut out the areas that represented the Dark Earth color on the paper masks and used those to mask over the previously painted Dark Earth. Again, using folded Tamiya tape to create "double-sided" tape. When the masking was complete, I then airbrushed Dark Green over the exposed areas. I used Humbrol 30 toned down 15% with Model Masters Flat White 4769 and thinned 40% with Tamiya X-20A. Yes, I know what you're thinking..."He's mixing three different brands of paints and thinner?!"....It works for me, especially when using the Tamiya X-20A thinner, the different paint brands mix well. I then added more Flat White to what was left in my cup and airbrushed highlights onto the Dark Green;














When the paint was touch dry, I carefully removed all masking and then checked to see how everything was looking, and again, I was reasonably happy with the results, bearing in mind that these are only my base colors to work with that I will be applying filters and weathering to later on;








When the paint was completely dry, I then assembled the radiator housing to the underside followed by both exhaust stacks:











She was now ready to be airbrushed with a gloss clear coat to seal all the paint-work in prior to applying decals. I used Model Masters Gloss Acrylic clear-coat:








I allowed the gloss clear coat to dry over-night and then the following morning I applied the decals. I started off with the upper side, followed by the portside, the starboard side and finally the underside:























When the decals were completed, I decided that this was as far as I wanted to go with this update, and so, I laid everything out on my table, checked over my progress and took a few photos to show how she was looking so far:

















Well, that's it for this update! From hereon, I will seal the decals in with a clear coat and then begin the weathering and "Final assembly" stage which will include masking and painting the canopy sections, fitting the wheels, the propeller, the pitot tube, the rudder actuator, counterbalance weights, the aerial and antenna cables.

Until my next update, if you would like to watch my "Build Update #3" video on YouTube, here is the link for that:


[youtube]KIFePoj0KTQ[/youtube]


Thanks in advance for following this build thread, watching my video and leaving comments, much appreciated!

Until next time, happy modeling and have fun!

Cheers
Martin

She is a beauty Martin, great work
That melted tail section is interesting and a good warning to keep those kits cool and away from heat sources

Twokidsnosleep wrote:She is a beauty Martin, great work
That melted tail section is interesting and a good warning to keep those kits cool and away from heat sources

Thanks Scott much appreciated! Sorry for the late response, I haven't been on here since my last update, and, I'm back here to do my 4th update!

Cheers
Martin

Revell 1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IIa "Build Update #4" (9.10.15)


Well, 9 days have passed since my last update, but, it was the Labor Day weekend here in the States and the missus took Thursday and Friday off to take a 5 day break from the office. Her sister from Florida was with us, too. Therefore, nothing done until Tuesday and yesterday (Wednesday) of this week. That said, I completed her, and this update shows what I did since "Build Update #3" to reach completion.


First, I sealed the previously applied decals with a gloss clear coat and in preparation for adding my weathering:








I started my weathering by adding chipping to the model. I had originally intended to use the "Hairspray" technique, but after applying silver paint, sealing it in with a clear coat, then applying hairspray before painting the plane, I sealed the paint with a clear coat ready for decaling, complete brain fart moment! Ha well, there's always more ways to skin a cat, and so, I used files to remove the camo paint to expose the silver beneath:














After the chipping was done, I then mixed a green/olive drab color oil filter and applied that all over the upper side camo colors. I allowed it to dry for 30 minutes, then removed the excess with kitchen towel, leaving enough on to provide the tonal variation I was looking for. I allowed it to dry for 3 hrs then sealed it with a gloss clear coat:














I let the clear coat dry overnight and then I mixed a dark dirt wash with black oil paint and odorless spirit, adding a smidgeon of white to make it look dark brown/black. I applied it liberally all over the plane, allowed it to dry for 30 minutes, then removed the excess with kitchen towel, leaving on an amount that was pleasing to my eyes:





























I then mixed a reddish/brown oil wash and applied some streaks and stains here and there, allowed it to dry for a few hours then airbrushed my final matt/flat clear coat onto everything:














While the flat clear coat was drying on everything, I moved onto the canopy sections. First I masked all the separate parts, then airbrushed interior green onto the exposed frames and let it dry for 1 hr. I then airbrushed the exterior Dark Green camo color on top, allowed that to dry for 1 hr, then sealed it all with a matt/flat clear coat. I then carefully removed the masking tape, but some paint peeled in spots, and so, I touched up those areas. I then glued the front bullet proof shield to the windshield:



















When the matt/flat clear coat had dried on the plane, I then applied the exhaust stains and the stains around the eight .303" browning machine guns- 4 in each wing leading edge. I used Tamiya XF-1 Black mixed with some Tamiya XF-52 Dark Earth thinned down with X-20A thinners at a 20/80 ratio. I then thinned down some Tamiya XF-55 Deck Tan with X-20A thinners at a 20/80 ratio and airbrushed some on top of the previously airbrushed darker exhaust stains:














When that was completed, it was now time to gather up all the lose parts in readiness for the final assembly!





I started the final assembly with the rudder actuator, followed by the gun-sight:











I then fitted the Pilot's door in the open position followed by gluing the windshield and rear canopy section into place. There were some small gaps around the front windshield which I filled in:














Next, I fitted the propeller which spins, then followed that by fitting the rear wheel:








I then assembled the undercarriage parts together and glued them into their corresponding locations beneath the plane:








Next, I fitted the flaps, but first, I had to slice the end section on both flaps to help separate them for the change in angle on the underside of the aircraft where they fitted to:








Next, I fitted the aerial, followed by the upper dorsal light lens and then the tail mounted antenna tensioner. This was painted to match the camo colors around it:














I then fitted the pitot tube, painted it, then fitted the Pilot's rear view mirror:














The last part of the assembly was to fit the antenna cables using 1.010" black EZ-Line:





She was now complete and ready for a "Final Reveal" photo shoot, but, until that time comes, I hope you enjoyed this update, and, if you'd like to watch my YouTube "Build Update #4" video, here is the link to that:


[youtube]9hji8HogpgA[/youtube]


Until my "Final Reveal", thanks for watching and commenting, much appreciated!

Happy modeling and have fun!

Cheers
Martin

Revell 1/32 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IIa "Final Reveal" (9.11.15)


Hello Chaps,

Well, she's completed and so here are my "Final Reveal" photos. I hope you enjoy them?!






















































































Regarding whether I think this is a VFM kit - "Value For Money" kit, the answer would be a definite "Yes"!

This 1/32 scale Revell Germany kit is only $23.95 to buy in the USA; about 16.00 quid when converted for our UK modelers. Here's a link to where I purchased my kit: http://www.hobbylinc.com/revell-germany ... cale-03986

Regarding providing my scores for the overall quality of engineering, quality of molded product, quality of details included, quality of the instruction manual and the decals and packaging, I score as follows:


Quality of Engineering Fits: 9/10 Everything goes together very well and very easily. The only reason that I marked the score down to 9, was because the bullet proof windscreen was about 0.75mm from the surface of the fuselage leaving a gap beneath it. I rectified this by scraping down the two sides of the fuselage profiles where the windshield fitted into, then applied a small amount of filler along the joints of the windshield to fuselage, and then blended it in.

Quality of molded product: 9/10- the product is very nicely molded, parts are crisp and clean with just a few spots of flash. No warp was present on any of the parts and ejector pin witness marks were away from visual area. I didn't have any sink marks to contend with and the canopy parts were nice and clear with minimal distortion when looking through. There are finely recessed panel lines and rivet details, although some of the rivet details are too fine for them to show when the plane is given a dirt wash during the finishing stage. A good rivet forming tool would cure that, should you have one and want to attempt improving them.

Quality of details included: 8/10- I'd pay an extra $5.00 to $8.00, if this kit was further enhanced with the inclusion of a Rolls Royce Merlin Engine to display with the cowlings removed.

Quality of the instruction manual: 9/10- I thought it was very easy to follow, but, it would be nice if the painting instructions were in color and alternative manufacturers paint shades were included for those that cannot get Revell paints easily, or prefer to use other brands.

Quality of Decals: 9/10- There are two options for squadron markings and the decals go down very well with a decal setting solution, conforming nicely to raised and recessed surface details. The kit does lack some of the smaller stencil markings such as "no step".

Quality of packaging: 8/10- Typical Revell thin card packaging with access to the box by opening the end flaps. The Sprues are packaged in clear polythene bags that are taped closed.

Further notes: I would recommend this kit to anyone that has half a dozen or more builds under their belt, despite its Skill Level 4 marking, it's very easy to put together and goes together well.

Did I enjoy the build?- Yes, very much so; the only issue that affected my enjoyment was the fact that I had a missing upper starboard side wing section and my portside fuselage- tail end- got damaged.

Would I buy this kit again? Yes, I already did! I'll be buying after-market enhancement for the cockpit and some after-market decals to allow more options for finishing.

If you'd like to see my "Final Reveal" video for this update, here is the link to that:


[youtube]IfKX4uaCWy4[/youtube]


Thanks for following along and for your comments, much appreciated!

Happy modeling and have fun!

Cheers
Martin

Beautiful work yet again Martin