Global Scale Modeller

Nice bit of artwork on the lid. The Panther was made a star in the film 'The Bridges at Toko-Ri' with William Holden.



Inside the box we have four sprues including the transparencies all individually wrapped which is nice to see, and a single piece of etch which is the instrument panel. Never used etch before.







Instructions are on 8 pages of A4 centre stapled with 24 build steps.



A very nice A4 colour call out chart with Gunze paints. No info at all though about the individual aircraft. I've decided to build the VF 112 209 version and a bit of digging reveals that this aircraft was on the USS Phillipine Sea in Sept 1950 during Korea.



The decal sheet is in it's own bag with tissue covering. The Eduard masks were purchased by me.



Let the butchery begin!

looks a nice kit, I'll be following with interest

rgds
John(shortCummins)

Managed to get a few bits done this evening. Painted the seat and pit, dry brushed them. They need an oil wash but I'll do that once everything is together. The photos I've seen of the cockpit have a zinc chromate green finish so that's what I've painted it in. The seat has no cushions, just a metal pan. I'll make some tape seat belts up and get them put on, also I'll see if I can knock up a face blind firing handle. They were droopy on these seats and not black/yellow like the MB seats. The other bit fits under the canopy and looks like it has a demister pipe on it so I'll probably pick that out in silver or black.



My first bit of photo etch wasn't a problem but I was a bit confused as to what the purpose was. The instrument panel had a reflective film with dials on it to stick on after I had cut it to shape, then the PE went on top of that. Then it dawned on me as it caught the light that the dials were reflective which is a neat effect. This pic looks like I've drilled holes in the bottom and the white paper is showing through but it's the light reflecting off the dials. I also used my PE cutting block for the first time which was great, I can see why people have them.

Calling the pit done. Threw some Tamiya tape belts in, painted buff and given a touch of silver on the ends. Looking at some photos there was a crinkly parachute pack in the seat pan which looks like rip stop nylon so I made a piece of white tack to fit and wrinkled it up a bit, finished in XF22 Sky. Tried to put some face blind handles on but couldn't get a tight enough curve so will leave that. The handles were actually made of rope on this seat. Picked out a few red emergency bits on the side panel (artistic licence here, the real pit has red bits but I didn't copy them exactly) using XF7. Rudder pedals done in XF16. Washed with lamp black oil. The pit as it comes out of the box is a bit bare, side panels come up well with some dry brushing but seat could do with a replacement if you're into that sort of thing..

Looks great nice job with the cockpit.

Thanks Konstantine. Met a bit of oddness today, when I cut the fuselage halves off the sprue the sprue gate went right into the model itself. Never seen this before, wasn't sure whether it was supposed to be an aerial stub or something but both halves had the same deal.



Few mins with a diamond file and scalpel shifted them.



Unfortunately you have to assemble the nose gear before fitting the fuselage halves together. Always a pain for masking. Paint was Model Air Insignia White 71.279. Drybrushed with Hobby H12.



The pit sits on top of the nosegear/speedbrake assembly.



Ready for buttoning up. Read the instructions carefully David, the tailhook goes horizontally along that recess...not hanging down. The instrument shroud is fitted at this time, that also fits inside the fuselage on lugs, not on top of the instrument coaming. Dry fitting: saves hours of rectifying later.Tailpipe done in Mr Metal iron and buffed up with a cotton bud.



Have to say the glued up halves are virtually flawless in terms of fit. No seams to fill at all. Good job Trumpeter.







Right, I'm having a break for a few days to drink stupid amounts of beer. Yeah Crimbo!

Got the wing stubs on and wing fold blanks, I'll be building this with folded wings.







Managed to get 24g of weight in the nose as this is a tailsitter. Should be enough.



Nose on. This is in three different parts so will need a bit of final sanding.



Everything going nicely so far, nice kit.

NIce !! have this one in the stash.. will be looking forward to your updates...

Forgot to mention there''s also a spare nose for the photo recce version in the kit with transparencies. No mention of it in the instructions.

Got the main colour on today and used Vallejo Metal Colour for the first time for the leading edges. I used their White Aluminium and have to say I was really impressed with it. It is very thin like Alclad so make sure your masking is well burnished down. Also wash your hands after you use it as I must have picked up a bit from the paint bottle top and left a mark on the fuselage which will need repairing the morrow.

I've also fitted the bomb racks to the wing and now realise that a decal goes underneath them. I know I should probably been a little more thorough in my before build planning but surely it's not beyond the wit of manufacturers to put by the side of the bomb rack instructions' If fitting racks ensure decals are applied first.'

Started decalling, my God I've never come across thinner decals, I think I've broken all of them so far except two so I've spent half my time repairing them. The nose band is one long decal that you have to cut to size. Be careful when you get to this bit RWSmith!



I just put this one on with as much care as I could, they just disintegrate.



Repaired but still split marks in the middle.



Also be aware that the decal that goes over the front of the cannons will need predrilling before you soak it, there's a hole in the decal but it has carrier film over it so you need to shift that.

Calling this one done. Pics over on the air gallery.