Global Scale Modeller

The RF-8, or GAZ-98, was an aerosan used by the Soviet Union during the Second World War. The GAZ-98K was a version with a more powerful GAZ Shvetsov M-11 five-cylinder air-cooled 110-hp radial aviation engine in place of the standard automotive engine.
During WWII, aerosans were found to be useful for reconnaissance and light raiding in northern areas, thanks to their high mobility in deep snow (25–35 km/h, where many vehicles couldn't move at all). Responsibility for aerosans was transferred to the Soviet Armored Forces (GABTU) and orders were submitted for design and fabrication of lightly armored versions, protected by ten millimeters of steel plate on front. They were organized into transport or combat battalions of 45 vehicles, in three companies, often employed in co-operation with ski infantry. Troops were usually carried or towed by transport aerosans, while fire support was provided by the heavier machine gun-armed, armored models. Aerosans were not used for direct assault because of their vulnerability to explosives such as mortar rounds.

This is the Kirin resin kit I also have the add-on figure kit set.



Here are all the parts laid out on the parts identification sheet.


Now the fun part of cleaning up all the parts.
See you soon.
George

Where did you find that kit??? I remember the 1992 Dragon catalogue. It was new back then. Had it so often in my fingers and could never decide to buy and build it! Good luck with the build! I love that vehicle! Greetz from Germany. Jens

Just to let you know I started this kit in January so I am catching you up to where I am now. It took about 2 week for me to get all the pieces cleaned up. This is my first true resin kit. The resin is very brittle. Don't know if it is because of the age of the kit or just the resin. I cleaned all of the parts by wet sanding them. The dust from the resin can be harmful to your health. The first problem I had was with the machine gun ring. While cutting out the ring the ring broke twice. So I made a new one out of metal wire. I just wrapped the wire around a wood dowel the diameter I needed. Here are the results.



Next problem. Some of the detail was missing from the side of the engine. The detail around the vents. So I cut off the rest of the pieces and made my own.



Results.



On this same piece the radiator screen was not fully formed on both sides. So I added some left over PE I had lying around. I also added a styrene strip to the top of the engine housing. The old one was missing part of it in the center.





Yes that was a big pain cutting that hole. LOL

Here is everything all cleaned up. Next time the instructions and start building. Wait I mean the diagram. No instructions. LOL
Thanks
George

Jens I picked it up in a collection I bought. Its sure is a challenge. The figures go together like a glove. I wish the kit did. LOL
George

Here are the instructions. The first problem I had is the numbers on the parts list and the numbers on the instructions are different. It was not too hard to figure out the right part numbers.


While trying to glue the front on I broke part of the main body. That is the crack you see in the picture. The pieces did not line up very well. After some sanding and gluing I finely got it. I think the main body was a little warped. If you look closely you can see that the bottom on the front piece is lower than the lower part of body.I ended up adding styrene to the bottom and sanding it so now it is level. The other side lined up fine.



Next was the engine. This was three pieces. Big pain in the butt trying to get this to fit properly. I super glued it then used Mr Surfacer 500 to fill in any gaps.


I did not want to try fitting the figure in with the sleds and other parts in the way so I started putting the figures together and adjusted the fit inside the sled. Fit was pretty good.




Next time I will work on the dash and gun turret.
Thanks
George

Hi, George! A lot of work with this kit! When I look at it, I must say I'm glad that I didn't buy it 23 years ago. I wouldn't have been able to overcome the difficulties back then. It's probably different now (in case you followed my thread), but to me it still seems to be an enormous effort to build it. Very nice replacement of missing detail and very skillful repairing of the broken parts. I like the detail on the figures and the Aerosan, especially the seats. Think I don't need to wish you luck, for I can see that you can cope easily, mate. Better wish you a lot of fun with the build. I'll stay tuned. Take care. Jens

I decided that it would probably be easier to paint the dash and interior next. Then I could mask it off and paint everything else when it was put together. Here is the dash painted. I sprayed the dials black then dry brushed it white. A little black touch up, some red and yellow and there you go. the last thing was putting some high gloss vanish for the lenses.



I then painted the seats and interior. The interior was painted Russian green from AMMO then sprayed with Ultimate white wash. Once the white wash dried I used a brush to remove some of it. I also painted the boards on the floor brown and used oil paints to make it look like wood.





With this done I start on the sleds.

Thanks
George

I decided to work on the figures a little more. I'm trying to handle the kit as least as possible when the sleds are on so they don't get broken off. Here the steering wheel was fitted so it would sit in the figures hand.



I then put the machine gun together along with the holder. I had to configure the figure so the gun would set properly in his hands. Was kind of trick without gluing it. Sorry no picture was to hard to get. Here all the pieces are ready for primer.



Now I start the fun part. The kit came with two brass rods for the sled support. One was bent so I went and replaced both rods with copper rods. The hardest part was making sure everything lined up and set level.



Here is the back with the suspension installed. This was were the instructions really suck but I think it turned out. Everything in white is scratch built as the kit wanted you to add the rounded styrene.



Here is the front suspension installed.



Here is the headlight. I painted the inside silver. I was not sure what to fill in the gap with to make it look realistic. I tried cutting a clear piece of plastic but it never turned out that well. The hole is kinda small and I not a true circle shape. I experimented with a couple things; superglue, epoxy, white glue stuff I hard around bench. I ended up filling it up using high gloss varnish and let it set. I also put a small round piece of photo etch in the center to look like a bulb.



Next is the blade guards.
Thanks
George

I decided to work on the figures a little more. I'm trying to handle the kit as least as possible when the sleds are on so they don't get broken off. Here the steering wheel was fitted so it would sit in the figures hand.



I then put the machine gun together along with the holder. I had to configure the figure so the gun would set properly in his hands. Was kind of trick without gluing it. Sorry no picture was to hard to get. Here all the pieces are ready for primer.



Now I start the fun part. The kit came with two brass rods for the sled support. One was bent so I went and replaced both rods with copper rods. The hardest part was making sure everything lined up and set level.



Here is the back with the suspension installed. This was were the instructions really suck but I think it turned out. Everything in white is scratch built as the kit wanted you to add the rounded styrene.



Here is the front suspension installed.



Here is the headlight. I painted the inside silver. I was not sure what to fill in the gap with to make it look realistic. I tried cutting a clear piece of plastic but it never turned out that well. The hole is kinda small and I not a true circle shape. I experimented with a couple things; superglue, epoxy, white glue stuff I hard around bench. I ended up filling it up using high gloss varnish and let it set. I also put a small round piece of photo etch in the center to look like a bulb. When I checked it the next day the varnish had shrunk just a little was in the bottom of the light. So I put in clear epoxy.



Next is the blade guards.
Thanks
George[/quote]

Damn, thats looking great George.

The blade guards were easier then I thought they would be to put together. The instructions gave you the length and you just cut to fit. I cut everything a little long so I could adjust the length as need. Lining them up was a little difficult but once I glued one on, it was easy.





The last thing to do is install the windshield. I will do that after all the painting is completed.

I next started painting the figures. I'm not a figure painter. I used a wet pallet with three different skin tones. All acrylic paints the main color then a lighter and darker color. I paint the face the main color then add the darker color to the main color. I paint all the darker areas with this. I immediately use a watered down main color over everything it blends in all the colors. I do the same thing with the highlighted areas of the face. I just keep doing this until it looks right. For the eyes and lips I use India Ink. Use a toothpick and cut a very sharp point. Black for the eyes, brown the eyebrows, and red for the lips. Go over the lips with the watered down skin color to make it look more natural.



I then started painting the bodies using the same three paint method for each color but did not blend it i that much. I go over the colors with oil paints to blend. If you have any questions you can PM me.









Once painted I will spray them with a gloss coat and then add a wash to bring out any lines and added detail. Afterward I will put a flat coat on them.

nice !!!

Time to paint the RF-8. I painted it Russian green for a base coat. My intention is to spray Ultimate white wash over it to give it a worn look. Here she is all painted green.


There were no decal in the kit so I thought I would try and paint the star myself. I printed a bunch of different size stars off the computer. Once I determined the correct size I cut them out and taped them to the RF-8.



Results

Cool! Really a beautiful build. I like the figures very much. For their age they're just fantastic. The Aerosan is great. Turned out so nicely. Kutgw! Jens

I want to give it a worn out look. So i used Ultimate white wash. I first put a flat coat over everything. When I use a gloss coat the clay wash does not stick as well and too much comes off when I try and remove it. I am trying to remove enough to give it a the worn look. When applying the Ultimate wash I spray it on for a more even coat. Just don't apply it to thick or it looks like this.



If that happens no worries it comes off pretty easy. Once dry, I wait about 30 minutes.



I take a firm paint brush and use a up and down motion to loosen the wash. Do not use a side to side motion you will see the brush marks and it doesn't look as natural.



After every coat I apply a flat coat to protect the layer. When you apply this it will lighten the wash a lot. I did 2 white washes the I applied Ultimate mud wash next. This gives it a layer effect of dirty white.



I will put one more coat of Ultimate white wash over the mud wash. Take off what is needed with the brush then I will apply a gloss coat on so I can start weathering it. Will add picture tonight forgot to take the picture this morning after gloss coat dryed.

Thanks
George

Awesome stuff George, well done Sir....

.... and thanks for the walk through on using the Ultimate winter wash. Got some on order to use on my little Armoured Car.
Continued success mate..

After the gloss coat dried i put a dark grey enamel wash on all the joints and bolts. This highlighted them and made them show up better.



I then wanted to add some chipping so I used some Ammo dark green/grey and some stuffing from inside a stuffed animal. It was left over from my dog eating it. I just dip it into the paint, get as much as possible off it with a paper towel and dab the areas where I want the chips. I will go back later and put a dark metallic paint in the chips. If you do not like the way the chips look you can take a Q-tip with water and wipe it off or rub enough to just take a little off. If look at the picture while I was taking the tape off the seats it removed part of my paint job. It happens, but an easy fix. Just a little touch up with some paint.



I like to blend oil paints into my paint schemes. I think it helps blend the chips in better. Hear is a picture before the oil paints.


This is after. If you put too much on or don't like it just wet your brush with thinner and remove it. Use a different brush otherwise the thinner will be in your brush and thin everything. I used the two colors in the background. I just put a little on the brush then put just a drops in a area. Using a different dry brush I use a up and down stroke to make it look more natural. It's really easy and blends the colors well.


After I'm done I took white oil paint and blended everything in. Here is a picture with the white before I start to blend. You can see I just dot it on.






Now I will do the same on the blades and machine gun mount. Once dry I will seal it up and add some oil marks and some dark pigments around the radiator and exhaust. I decided to do a diorama with some more figures. I'll show that next time.
Thanks
George

Here are the other figures I intend to use. I will us the 3 German bodies and the Russian heads. I will not be using the one shooting.


Here are two of the figures. I will need to remove plastic under the sleeves by the hands. If look you will see what I am talking about. One is done the other not. Looks a lot better. I also have the heads and helmets primed.




I drilled a hole in the sleeve and then used these bits to finish the hole.


Here he is with his arms on and his rifle. Drill out the sleeves really makes a difference. I will show you how I attach a sling to it.



I use an old yogurt foil top. I cut it into strips. I wanted to add a little more detail so I added a small metal hinge on both ends. I used speaker wire to fabricate it.



I folded over the end and put a small piece of wire in the fold. I touched it with some thin superglue.



I then cut the short end off and folded the metal wire to shape. Cut off any access wire. Don't make it too big. I then touched the wire with the thin superglue.



Here is the result.




Now I need to do 2 more.

Only 11 days left
.. crunch time