Global Scale Modeller

Hi all

As you may know (if you've read my other recent posts) I've returned to the hobby after 30 odd years and I'm building an M4A3E8.

I've just had my first go at airbrushing in as many a year, all be it I've had a few practices without issues. Anyway I've got one now I've just started to prime the model and notice it has what I think is orange peel effect
Just above the track guard


and just below the turret ring and above the side of the hull

I'm using a Sparmax MAX-4 Airbrush with 0.4mm nozzle/needle, pressure was set at 22 psi using Ammo Mig black primer not thinned, I've now stopped spraying. What has caused it do you think, should I have thinned it, used less pressure or is it bad control of the flow of paint? Also what can I do to remove or correct it?

All help much appreciated

Kev, It looks like the surface wasn't totally oil or silicone free from handeling the model from what I can see in the pictures.

If it only on the fender in are intended for stowage of extra gear. I would leave it as is and hide it with jerrycans, tarps, boxes and such. This because removing the primer in the affected area means rubbing it down with Isopropyl or disinfecting alcohol with cotton-buds which might loosen or destroy the pe in that area. I think there is a lot of stowage suf included in the fury resin update set if i'm not mistaken..

As another note, Mig's Youtube channel has a tutorial video on using his acrylic paints and they have to be sprayed in several light coats to prevent orange peel. I would think this may include the primer as well. Having used Mig's paints, I can attest to his method as I've screwed up a few paint jobs myself. Vleugelmoer has a good suggestion to hide the areas since they are fairly small.

Diverrob wrote:I would think this may include the primer as well.

It definitely applies to primers also as it is the first paint to be applied, any extra layer will just make it worse. Having had a closer look at the pictures now on the laptop now and I stand by my earlier advise. Having seen a lot of real life Shermans I kan vouw that most turrets where pretty rough when they left the factory as they where cast in sand I beleave.. most model kits seem to overlook this small fact and have them almost totally smooth. this way it adds back a little of that charm.

Thanks for the very speedy relies guys much appreciated.

The model was well washed before the build but it's possible it's grease/oil etc, I'm leaning towards incorrect control of the two way trigger!

Pulling on my experience with bike spraying, I have now washed off the areas to the nearest edge there doesn't appear to be any loosening of PE. I'm going to try and thin the paint a bit and set the needle for a max setting so I can't over do it, all a learning curve

Kev, Mig's primer is not the greatest. There's a very good chance it's not you buddy.
It's the paint.
It sprays the same way for me. I have three of his primer colours and they all do that. The black primer seems to be the worst. It's not every bottle of primer that is effected, but you aren't the only one with that issue. Some spray it fine, some can't get anything from it.
Some of his paints do it as well.
It's a very common issue that is very well known regarding his paint. AK's paints and primer will do it as well.
It's a contamination that is interfering with the surface tension of the paint.
With the paints you can add a drop of Mr. Thinner to it and it usually fixes the problem. The primer however, once you add thinner to it, it sorta kills it.
You can try to spray it in extremely thin coats like the fellas suggest, and hope that it will fix it, but your best bet is to switch to another brand.
Badger's Stynylrez is one of the best acrylic primers on the market right now.
For your next project I would recommend trying some of that.

We have success
I thinned is by about 10%, I also think is was incorrect control of the paint flow, I'm going to try no thinning hoping that I've mastered the flow control.

Beautiful save, Kev! I agree with Coen on the primer switch as well. I started with Vallejo primer and had the same peeling troubles as a lot of people have mentioned in the past. Switched to Stynlrez (Ultimate primer in the UK) and haven't looked back.

Looks to me like we can do a big tick in the primed model box to me. Nice save on the problem areas mate..

Cheers guys I'm quite relieved it turned out ok I was a bit deflated I have to admit. It's all a big learning curve and I found it very full filling, sense of achievement

So today with luck I'll be applying the chipping coats. While I'm on that subject is there a time limit on how long you can leave the top coat before chipping, I'll be using Ammo Mig http://www.migjimenez.com/en/chipping-p ... fects.html

Mmmm..... Smooooooth!

She's looking lovely now mate. Great save.

Morning Kev,

As chipping solutions have to be reactivated with water to start and that some will be left in some areas as well there is no maximum time limit before you have to start the chipping steps them-self.

The do however work best with matt paint due its porous surface.

Looking forward to the next installment

Paul

I wasn't sure about the time as most stuff I've read suggests you paint the top coat as soon as the chipping coat is touch dry and then start chipping as soon as that's touch dry, meaning I couldn't do the whole process over a few days.

My plan is to apply couple coats of ammo mig scratches, having read more I think the chipping is for large chips which I'm not looking for, or is it the same stuff in different bottles? Then the top colours once dry start the chipping, seal with gloss varnish, transfers, then apply rust and wash, seal with matt varnish and then apply mud/dust etc. Hope that's all in the right order?

I think it wil mostly depend on the implement used how big the chips and or scratches will be. I've seen some videos on YouTube that only apply the stuff to specific areas in random patterns. So applying two coats of the stuff sound a bit odd.

The painting steps I've seen are: priming, basecoats, chipping coat, top coat, detail painting, clear coat, decals and solutions, clear coat, sludge wash, pin wash, pastels / dry pigments, clear coat, wet pigments and a final varnish

I was just reading the bottles it states 2 or 3 coats, I thought that was exsissve too mate, I've got these:
http://www.migjimenez.com/en/chipping-p ... fects.html
http://www.migjimenez.com/en/chipping-p ... fects.html

I was thinking of using the black primer coat as my base coat?

I think the rest are much the same expect I forgot the final clear coat varnish as I called it.

Kevthemodeller wrote:I was thinking of using the black primer coat as my base coat?

I think the rest are much the same expect I forgot the final clear coat varnish as I called it.

Intermediate coats could always be combined or illiminated. If I read the info on the AK site one is a diluted version and the other is full strength.

As always happy modeling and keep spraying paint..

Paul

Coen wrote:Kev, Mig's primer is not the greatest. There's a very good chance it's not you buddy.
It's the paint.
It sprays the same way for me. I have three of his primer colours and they all do that. The black primer seems to be the worst. It's not every bottle of primer that is effected, but you aren't the only one with that issue. Some spray it fine, some can't get anything from it.
Some of his paints do it as well.
It's a very common issue that is very well known regarding his paint. AK's paints and primer will do it as well.
It's a contamination that is interfering with the surface tension of the paint.
With the paints you can add a drop of Mr. Thinner to it and it usually fixes the problem. .

Mr Thinner, does this mean the Aqueous thinner or the Mr Colour Self Levelling Thinner?