Global Scale Modeller

I got fed up with my Trans Am Camaro model. The ancient, brittle, blue plastic was giving me fits. I put it back in the box.

This evening I bought this 2015 release at my local Hobby Lobby craft store. Using a 40% Discount coupon, I paid just $17.97 USD. The kit is extensive and the plastic behaves much nicer. I've already complete step 1 plus a tiny bit more. I also am using Mr. Color Acrylic Lacquers - IMHO, the best model paint available. The 2'n1 feature lets you build either a Hi Boy or a Channeled '29 Model A. I've chosen the Hi Boy route. Rather than the metallic orange on the box art, I am going with red. Specifically, the paint is Mr. Color 68 Red Madder. I'm not sure what that means. Maybe it is a Gundam color.


model-a-1 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


model-a-2 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


model-a-4 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


model-a-3 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


model-a-5 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


model-a-6 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


model-a-8 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


model-a-7 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

model-a-10 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr
The engine is complete.



model-a-11 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr
I also painted the floor pan. I then painted the exhaust in Model Master Aluminum and Magnesium buffing Metalizers. They were then superglued in place.

model-a-12 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr
I primed the frame with Mr. Surfacer 1200

The frame of this Model A has been painted a few times. Since I primed it in gray, the resulting shade of red was too dark as compared to the other parts I painted red. Those other parts were not primed at all. Instead it was just red paint over white plastic. Luckily I have some Testors ELO (East Lift Off) and used it to strip the frame down to bare, white, plastic.


model-a-13 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

I then primed it with Tamiya Fine Surface Primer White and then resprayed in Mr. Color Red Madder. The result is much closer to the engine and floor pan.


model-a-14 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Love that red!

Keep up the great work!

model-a-15 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr
I installed the steering column, engine, and floor pan. I also added the fuel cell and battery box. The instructions said to paint the battery box white, but I've never seen one in white, only black plastic. The instructions also said to paint the fuel cell aluminum, but in my opinion the it looked like it would be made of molded plastic. So, it also got painted in flat black. I did the carpet in a tan color. Those ejector pin marks will be covered by the seat.

model-a-16 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr
I installed the exhaust headers. They were a bit fiddly trying to get the angle correct while lining up with the rest of the exhaust system at the cutouts.

Nice pipes and great engine work there

model-a-17 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr
The driveline is installed as is most of the suspension pieces.

I added a few more pieces this evening


model-a-18 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr
Gear level and pedals



model-a-19 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr
I also installed the radiator. The lower radiator hose the instructions called for back in the engine assembly stage would fit with the radiator so I left it off. There were a number of hoses depending on the version being built, but the one called for with the high boy was incorrect.

model-a-20 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

The body got its base coat of Mr. Color Red Madder. The dashboard was also painted. Up next is the clear coat the body.

I decided to go with an acrylic varnish on this model. I chose Vallejo Gloss Varnish. Not being used to acrylic paints, it is a PITA. I can already say the body will need rubbing out. We shall see what it looks like when finished.

I don't get the appeal of Vallejo varnishes. I tried it out on my '29 roadster body. The stuff just doesn't flow onto the paint. It beads up like water on a Rain-X treated windshield. Once you get enough of the little bubbles on the surface, then the varnish starts to level out. By this time the stuff just runs off pooling at the edges. When I was finished, put the body in my homemade paint drier to harden. I took the body out then promptly wet-sanded it level to get ready for re-spray in red. After I the new coat of red dries, I'll spray on a coat of old-fashioned clear lacquer.

Oh the drama!

I resprayed the body red and it looked fine. I then went to the old standard Testors Glosscote Clear Lacquer. It went on great and looked great - until it dried. Now the body looks like one of those tired old cars in the Nu Finish commercials. The finish is smooth but a in a sun-faded, blotchy matte kinda way. I may just leave it.


model-a-21 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Thanks to some Novus 1 plastic clean and shine I was able to save my '29 roadster body. It certainly isn't show quality, rather it looks like a cleaned up, 1980s restoration.


model-a-22 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


model-a-28 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

I painted the interior side walls in Model Master Leather enamel. The finish was matte, so in preparation for the white decals that were supposed to go into the pleated inserts, I sprayed on some Mr. Color clear. The decals were as thick as note paper, so I chose not use them. I also decided to leave the gloss finish to represent shiny leather.

The side panels are also the rear wheel wells, painted red.


model-a-23 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr



model-a-24 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Finally, here is the body on frame. I used super glue, but got a couple of boo-boos as a result of the glue getting on the frame rails.


model-a-25 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


model-a-27 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Today, I attached the final details. Here are a few pictures.


model-a-30 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


model-a-29 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


model-a-31 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr