Global Scale Modeller

Hi, having never used Tamiya extra thin or any wicking cement I was interested in if there was clean up needed. I've watched a few videos and noticed a chemical cast on the edges of the join or where extra cement has flowed onto a flat surface (particularly evident on one internal right angle join). I'm not talking where too much has been applied. Does this need cleaning up or does it evaporate eventually?

As a returning (late) adult to kit building I want to up my game and not do my usual paint over anything and hope for the best. I'm interested in any techniques to clean up prior to priming. I'm fine on the seam filling and sanding, it's just getting glue where it shouldn't be and avoiding sanding away detail.

Doesn't help I'm one handed!

Thanks guys and gals,

Steve.

Hi Steve,
To answer your specific question, yes I have had instances where I applied too much Tamiya Extra Thin, and the surrounding area was marred by the excess glue. By too much I mean the glue was actually puddled. After the glue was fully dry (I waited a full day), I came back and lightly sanded the marred surface smooth again.
The morel to the story is don't apply too much Tamiya Extra Thin in the first place, and no clean up will be needed.
The marks will not evaporate, once they are present they are there for good but long as you don't puddle the glue, the thin residue you see in the pictures and videos is not visible once painted over.

In the videos of people using Extra Thin, you might notice most have a habit of touching the brush to the inside of the neck of the jar as the pull the brush (cap) out, knocking some of the glue off the brush. It gives more control of the flow off the brush.

Good point....

You can use a paint brush versus the Tamiya applicator if you find it limiting or not precise enough ? ... This could give you better control over where you want the glue! make sure it has natural bristles, so it won't melt in the glue !

as for glue puddles... you have a few seconds before the glue start melting the plastic so, delicately wicker the excess... remember no pressures or excessive touching or you risk leaving impressions like finger prints or tool marks in the soften styrene; leave alone to completely dry.

dried up glue "film" or sheen can often be "buffed out" with a pink eraser or polishing sanding sticks.

Thanks very much guys that makes me feel more confident to get going with it.

When I first started using it. It always looked to me like I had never applied enough so I would add more resulting in excess glue.
I learned to have faith ....Yes I really did glue that part and it will hold.

ForbesHutton wrote:In the videos of people using Extra Thin, you might notice most have a habit of touching the brush to the inside of the neck of the jar as the pull the brush (cap) out, knocking some of the glue off the brush. It gives more control of the flow off the brush.

Couldn't agree more - first class advice.

I've just finished a set of workable tracks for a Tiger 1. Every link required the gluing of an insert with the guidehorns on it. Using the above method meant there was the perfect amount of glue in the indented space so the insert went in and stayed in - zero spillage or smearing.

digger303 wrote:When I first started using it. It always looked to me like I had never applied enough so I would add more resulting in excess glue.
I learned to have faith ....Yes I really did glue that part and it will hold.

Hehe that's me all over, not enough, na, still not enough, maybe a little more, bugger too much!

I'm trying to control myself! I'm just an over active Sprue Gluer!

Plopper wrote:

digger303 wrote:When I first started using it. It always looked to me like I had never applied enough so I would add more resulting in excess glue.
I learned to have faith ....Yes I really did glue that part and it will hold.

Hehe that's me all over, not enough, na, still not enough, maybe a little more, bugger too much!

I'm trying to control myself! I'm just an over active Sprue Gluer!

I am in this regiment as well...overgluers anonymous
BUT, I did just pull off some wing doohickies off the underside of my Phantom with blue painters tape...they were glued with TET.

Twokidsnosleep wrote:

Plopper wrote:

digger303 wrote:When I first started using it. It always looked to me like I had never applied enough so I would add more resulting in excess glue.
I learned to have faith ....Yes I really did glue that part and it will hold.

Hehe that's me all over, not enough, na, still not enough, maybe a little more, bugger too much!

I'm trying to control myself! I'm just an over active Sprue Gluer!

I am in this regiment as well...overgluers anonymous
BUT, I did just pull off some wing doohickies off the underside of my Phantom with blue painters tape...they were glues with TET.

Second thought ...damn not enough glue... .
First thought is always.... %**@K...

Do you guys use TET on a painted surface ? On the rare occasion i do, the instant that brush touches the paint it's off ! For gluing unpainted parts held together dry and then applying the TET there is nothing better and i can see what all the fuss is about but for painted parts i just cant see by the stuff with the needle tip. Plus a bottle of black or grey TET makes me heave at the sight of it ! Yuk !!!

Is there something obvious i'm missing ?

Johnj wrote:Do you guys use TET on a painted surface ? On the rare occasion i do, the instant that brush touches the paint it's off ! For gluing unpainted parts held together dry and then applying the TET there is nothing better and i can see what all the fuss is about but for painted parts i just cant see by the stuff with the needle tip. Plus a bottle of black or grey TET makes me heave at the sight of it ! Yuk !!!

Is there something obvious i'm missing ?

You're not missing anything Johnj, never use TET on top of paint where it can be seen. It lifts it immediately on contact

if you've got location pins or holes where you want to use the TET you can get away with it if you're very VERY careful. Any flat surface and you're dead. Mind you, applying any kind of glue on a painted surface and you're taking your life in your hands, it just aint happening mate.

I think Gav mentioned you can add sprue chunks to TET to make it into a filler?
Anyone try that. I have an extra bottle of that orange stuff I was going to try

Yea works really well for mahoosive gaps I swear by it

Nev wrote:Yea works really well for mahoosive gaps I swear by it

Thanks for confo Nev, will give it a try

Twokidsnosleep wrote:

Nev wrote:Yea works really well for mahoosive gaps I swear by it

Thanks for confo Nev, will give it a try

Nps mate just don't use it for fine stuff as its basically molten plastic, but as a tanky guy I love it for chunky fills and weld seams

I have done it as well. Works really well and you can use it to make two pieces look like one by adding extra tet by brush after you apply the melted sprue to smooth it out. One draw back is having a few plastic hairs here and there.

Hi I certainly agree with Nev great for gap filling plus no shrinkage, down side drying time best to leave 24 hours but I have cleaned up after 12 .It's call "Sprue Glue".
Pete

privatepete wrote:Hi I certainly agree with Nev great for gap filling plus no shrinkage, down side drying time best to leave 24 hours but I have cleaned up after 12 .It's call "Sprue Glue".
Pete

Will try it out
Do I add sprue shavings or chunks into the cement bottle???

I just snipped little chunks of spruce frames you can make it as thick or thin as you like. Once dissolved you can see if you need more. And you can top it up from time to time with any old tet

Nev wrote:I just snipped little chunks of spruce frames you can make it as thick or thin as you like. Once dissolved you can see if you need more. And you can top it up from time to time with any old tet

Righto, thanks again Nev

Twokidsnosleep wrote:

Nev wrote:I just snipped little chunks of spruce frames you can make it as thick or thin as you like. Once dissolved you can see if you need more. And you can top it up from time to time with any old tet

Righto, thanks again Nev

To start with I had about a bottle of tet with about a quarter full then put a light colored sprue all cut up of course. I put in enough to about half fill it and left it for some time. That gave me straight up the consistency That I use . Soft sticky not runny , but will contour to the part profile for a short time.
It keeps well so far no problems.