Global Scale Modeller

While I am recovering from a setback on my Kenworth build, I'll post my "M" build which I'll start sometime soon.

This kit looks to be pretty simple, but the detail looks good. The panel lines are delicate, but as can be expected, the cockpit is simple. There are only three gray sprues and one clear sprue. Of the three decal options, only one is an M version - that of RAF No 112 Squadron, Sicily, 1943

From Wikipedia:

P-40M, version generally similar to the P-40K, with a stretched fuselage like the P-40L and powered by an Allison V-1710-81 engine giving better performance at altitude (compared to previous Allison versions). It had some detail improvements and it was characterized by two small air scoops just before the exhaust pipes. Most of them were supplied to Allied countries (mainly UK and USSR), while some others remained in the USA for advanced training. It was also supplied to the Commonwealth air forces as the Kittyhawk Mk. III.

p-40-11 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


p-40-12 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr








p-40-010 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Since the M model P-40 was exclusively meant for the the RAF the camouflage will be in RAF colors. What about the interior - American interior green 34151 or RAF interior green? Would the factory have used US colors?

I've started assembly on my P-40. This should be a quick build; fit is very nice.


p-40-13 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Here are a few assemblies I primed and painted. The primer used is Stylynrez black, the interior parts are painted with Model Master Interior Green FS34151, the intake areas are painted with Hataka Azure Blue, and the exhaust stacks with Vallejo Natural Steel.

I've made some more progress, but I can't show you all the pictures because my laptop is on the fritz.

I got the cockpit installed using the usual method of attaching it to one of the fuselage halves. When I glued the two halves together, the cockpit fell out the bottom. As it turned out, the easiest way to install the cockpit was to insert it from the bottom. Easy as pie.

p-40-15 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


The chin intake parts made this ugly gap. I was able to fill it with Tamiya putty, but that photo was lost.

p-40-16 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


Next, I added the rear cockpit piece to build the "M" version of this aircraft. The left side has a small step at the join. I will sand this down once the glue dries.

p-40-17 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


Finally, I glued the wing halves together. Sanding the joins will be necessary, especially at the landing gear wells.

p-40-18 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

I'm moving along on this tiny build. The wings are attached are fit really well. The tops need no filler while the bottom just a little.


p-40-19 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


p-40-20 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


Here it the model with the filler all sanded up.


p-40-21 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


p-40-22 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

I attached the horizontal stabilizers and the gear doors. I lost one of the inner doors to the carpet monster, but was able to rescue it after a long search. I also attached the cowl flaps. Tail wheel well detail is non-existent.


p-40-23 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


p-40-24 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


p-40-25 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

I started to mask the canopy with Tamiya tape, but quickly got frustrated. The detail is extremely fine which makes cutting the tape in the right places difficult. On to plan B; I ordered a Montex mask kit.

Today I got the gun sight installed and painted.


p-40-27 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr



I also attached the Montex canopy mask. This mask isn't the most accurate. I'll need to do some touch up later.


p-40-28 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr



I'm at the painting stage now that it is in black, Stynylrez primer.


p-40-29 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

Doing great! I am following along

This evening, I painted the bottom of the model with Hataka A028 Acure Blue. This particular paint was a PITA to use. Getting the paint thinned properly is difficult. Even using Hataka paint thinner, the paint wanted to dry on the tip of the needle. For the other colors, I will try some artist's acrylic retarder.


p-40-30 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

I cut strips of sign vinyl to mask off the edge of the Azure Blue.


p-40-31 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr



I masked off all the blue in preparation for painting the Middlestone upper surfaces.


p-40-32 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr

This is how my P-40 wound up on the shelf of doom.

After much struggle, I got decent coverage of Hataka middlestone paint.


p-40-33 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr



I mapped out the Dark Earth using vinyl tape strips.


p-40-34 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr



I masked off the middlestone.


p-40-35 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr



Once again, Hataka paint was a struggle. This time Dark Earth.


p-40-36 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr



The paint has real adhesion problems. I think because of the improper thinning of the mixture, the paint lifted off of the model. When I peeled the masking off, it took paint and primer off of the plastic. If I am to continue, I'll need to strip the model and start over. I am not willing to do that at this time.


p-40-39 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


p-40-37 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr


p-40-38 by Michael Keogh, on Flickr