Badger STYNLREZ primer - How to Apply ??

[Warren]

Gentlemen,

I previously applied the Badger Stynlrez primer with a hand brash since I did not airbrush. Now I want to begin using an airbrush so I searched the internet for how to airbrush Stynlrez. I got varyiing answers as to whether to thin or not, and the PSI to use.

1. In one of the YOUTUBE videos the individual had Ultimate products all over his table, as well as a Ultimate primer, in addition to the Stynlrez primer. He said that these were basically the same, since the Ultimate product was made by Badger in the USA. If this is the case, I would rather give you folks my business although I use the Badger Stynlrez. Is he correct?

2. I have an Iwata HP C Plus with a .3 mm needle. Stynlrez recommends a .5 mm or larger needle, and PSI 20-30. Ultimate recommends a .4 mm or larger needle, and the same PSI (20-30). Both state no thinning is necessary. I would think due to my smaller needle I would have to thin the Stynirez slightly. One individual got excellent results using a 15% thinner to 85% primer at 28 PSI using a .3 mm needle.

Questions:
1. Are the Stynlrez and Ultimate products basically the same?
2. Do you suggest thinning when applying with a .3 mm needle at PSI 20-30?

Thank you.
Warren

[Paul]

Yes Our Ultimate primer and the badger are the same

You should be fine 20-30 psi with A .3MM needle its what i use

Don't thin unless you really need to

[NorthernModeller]

This sounds like my video lol. Stynlrez and Ultimate are the same products but just rebranded and imported for easer access for the UK and Eu customers. and no, you do not need to thin it with a .3 needle at 20-30 PSI. I spray at 20 with a .3 and never had an issue.

[Cymru]

Blimey, talk about how your mileage might vary, Using a H&S Ultra with a .5 needle I have to spray at 35psi or nothing comes out or it turns to tar!!!

[TheSmoo]

Just a quick question, absolutely loving the black Ultimate primer, shooting flawlessly though my Iwatta CR revolution at about 25psi but was having a few issues with the white as the pigment seems a bit thicker on the same setup and was advised to try a wee bit of your Ultimate thinners which I did, wasn't given a ratio but tried it at a 60% Ultimate white primer to 40% Ultimate thinners and it sprayed flawlessly, is this something you would advise (with the white only) or am I doing something wrong?

[NorthernModeller]

Never had any issue with the white, the only thing I have notices with the white is that it needs to be built up slowly. flooding it on with cause it to pool. but apart from that, sprays the same as the black and the grey for me.

[sheppsea]

I find the white primer needs a lot of shaking before spraying, the first few times I tried it, it all came out patches and looked terrible, but now I shake the bottle vigorously it for a minute or two before spraying and it comes out as well as the black and grey primers now

[Paul]

I find the white primer needs a lot of shaking before spraying, the first few times I tried it, it all came out patches and looked terrible, but now I shake the bottle vigorously it for a minute or two before spraying and it comes out as well as the black and grey primers now

Yep that's it you got to shake the crap out of it

[ForbesHutton]

Get a glass bead/marble or a stainless steel ball and put it in the primer bottle. They do speed up the mixing process.

[schweinhund227]

As many board members here have expressed over the years...

Airbrushing isn't experienced or felt the same depending where you live !

All sort of factors will affect your paint jobs...Altitude, Humidity, Dryness, Air brush and paint types, Thinners, and so on....

if you have all those tools and the time ... Then you need to practice what you saw on YT or read in a forum
and you do that on Paper towels or cardboard first...

Make lines, Wide line, Thin lines, Make fan patterns or broad cover patterns....
practice feathering you paint....make simple camo patterns... see what happens when
you get close or farther away... know your tool ! and how good it can be...

Practice makes perfect and then by experimenting with various... thinning ratios and techniques...
you will gain the respect for the tool you have and will be able to apply such experience onto your models....

learn to disassemble your Airbrush... and cleaning it...
learn to flush and back flush your brush between colours.... and get in the habit to do it...
especially if you plan to use that Badger/Ultimate primer.. which will harden in your airbrush if not cleaned properly !!!
IT is a good product but it won't forgive.... if you forget !

Don't start spraying on a Model.. especially the one you are working on right now !!!
Practice until you say to yourself.... OK I've got it ! this is how this primer behaves.... and I know the mixtures for that paint
....

Its not hard ! you just need practise !
know your products... and mix accordingly !

Mix outside your brush... until you know them well... so you don't mix incompatible products... and GUNK up your brush....
that would be bad news....

Best of luck and happy modelling !

[TheSmoo]

thanks for the replies guys, I do like the product, especially the black, the white i have has been sitting for a while, was freshly opened and mixed and stirred vigorously, I did spray as Northern said thin coats, it just seemed a bit thicker than the black (maybe an early batch?) and found it almost like molasses in consistency compared to the black which was a bit more runny and the white was a bit harder to go through the airbrush, as someone else mentioned humidity etc can affect things, I experimented thinning it a little and am getting the results I want, was just curious to see if thinning the white was the norm or not, appears that some don't have to and are using smaller needle sizes than me. regarding the prep of the paint i stir it in the bottle manually and have 4 agitator balls in it and usually give it a good shake for 20 minutes or so prior to painting it so it is well mixed.

[Lee]

As many board members here have expressed over the years...

Airbrushing isn't experienced or felt the same depending where you live !

All sort of factors will affect your paint jobs...Altitude, Humidity, Dryness, Air brush and paint types, Thinners, and so on....

if you have all those tools and the time ... Then you need to practice what you saw on YT or read in a forum
and you do that on Paper towels or cardboard first...

Make lines, Wide line, Thin lines, Make fan patterns or broad cover patterns....
practice feathering you paint....make simple camo patterns... see what happens when
you get close or farther away... know your tool ! and how good it can be...

Practice makes perfect and then by experimenting with various... thinning ratios and techniques...
you will gain the respect for the tool you have and will be able to apply such experience onto your models....

learn to disassemble your Airbrush... and cleaning it...
learn to flush and back flush your brush between colours.... and get in the habit to do it...
especially if you plan to use that Badger/Ultimate primer.. which will harden in your airbrush if not cleaned properly !!!
IT is a good product but it won't forgive.... if you forget !

Don't start spraying on a Model.. especially the one you are working on right now !!!
Practice until you say to yourself.... OK I've got it ! this is how this primer behaves.... and I know the mixtures for that paint
....

Its not hard ! you just need practise !
know your products... and mix accordingly !

Mix outside your brush... until you know them well... so you don't mix incompatible products... and GUNK up your brush....
that would be bad news....

Best of luck and happy modelling !

All very good advice

[Warren]

Schweinhund227,
Thank you for the detail advise. I am in the process of building Revell kit #5512 B25J bomber. The kit is 1/48 scale and was molded in China. It is bloody awful. However, I intend to use this kit as my spray paint practice model. I wanted a model with sufficient wing and fuselage area to practice my airbrush.
Before I begin practice on the B25J model I will do as you suggested. I will try to paint lines of varying widths, circles, fanning the paint, and signing my name.
I do understand that Stynlrez primer is thick, and can cause problems if the airbrush is not completely cleaned immediately after use.
I SAW A VIDEO WHICH WARNED AGAINST "BACK FLUSHING" when cleaning an airbrush. The author of the video said that back flushing puts excess pressure on the O rings in the brush and should therefore be avoided. What say you??

Thank you.
Warren

[digger303]

Warren your being a bit hard on the Chinese that kit was molded in 1977. Check this http://www.scalemates.com/kits/111684-r ... j-mitchell ...
I say that person didn'tknow what they were talking about....o rings can withstand pressures in well in excess of 2,500psi. I don't think the 20 or 30psi in our AB'S will worry them, besides it is the best way for a through clean. It is No difference than if your ab was to block the pressure is still there so it really is a nonsense.

[Paul]

Schweinhund227,
Thank you for the detail advise. I am in the process of building Revell kit #5512 B25J bomber. The kit is 1/48 scale and was molded in China. It is bloody awful. However, I intend to use this kit as my spray paint practice model. I wanted a model with sufficient wing and fuselage area to practice my airbrush.
Before I begin practice on the B25J model I will do as you suggested. I will try to paint lines of varying widths, circles, fanning the paint, and signing my name.
I do understand that Stynlrez primer is thick, and can cause problems if the airbrush is not completely cleaned immediately after use.
I SAW A VIDEO WHICH WARNED AGAINST "BACK FLUSHING" when cleaning an airbrush. The author of the video said that back flushing puts excess pressure on the O rings in the brush and should therefore be avoided. What say you??

Thank you.
Warren

Hi Warren thats absolute rubbish regarding back flushing, I've been doing this for years with no problems.

[Warren]

Paul,
Thank you. That is what I suspected.

Thanks again to you, and all the other members, for answering my numerous questions regarding the use of an airbrush and related paints.
I am about 70% finished with my Revell B25 J bomber kit, and when done I will try applying Stynlrez gray primer. Hobbyline does not currently
have your Ultimate primer. What marketing genius at Badger, USA came up with the brand name STYNLREZ? I trip all over myself trying to pronounce
it, never mind remembering how to spell it. I suspect that the inventor of the formula had naming rights, and demanded Badger use his name.
What else could it be?'

Warren

[digger303]

looks like part of two names put together !

[ForbesHutton]

Paul,
Thank you. That is what I suspected.

Thanks again to you, and all the other members, for answering my numerous questions regarding the use of an airbrush and related paints.
I am about 70% finished with my Revell B25 J bomber kit, and when done I will try applying Stynlrez gray primer. Hobbyline does not currently
have your Ultimate primer. What marketing genius at Badger, USA came up with the brand name STYNLREZ? I trip all over myself trying to pronounce
it, never mind remembering how to spell it. I suspect that the inventor of the formula had naming rights, and demanded Badger use his name.
What else could it be?'

Warren

Stynylrez
STYrene NYLon RESin
It's named for the materials it covers

[DougvH]

Stynylrez
STYrene NYLon RESin
It's named for the materials it covers

Hey knowing that, I can actually pronounce it now

Actually was wondering myself, but now makes perfect sense.

[Twokidsnosleep]

FYI you can brush paint the stuff as well

[ForbesHutton]

Stynylrez
STYrene NYLon RESin
It's named for the materials it covers

Hey knowing that, I can actually pronounce it now

Actually was wondering myself, but now makes perfect sense.

[StuartClark]

Let me echo what was said above. Practice and your mileage may vary compared to what other have experienced.

Consider the ratios you see on the bottles and websites as guidelines and starting points. I have a badger 150 and Patriot 105, most of the components are identical but yet they act very differently depending on what is put in them and the time of year. When trying something new, spray on a sacrifice model or plastic sheet. If something doesn't work right away try it differently and keep some notes.

Also it's always worth trying new things as they come out, you may find something that works better than before. Personally, I find Tamiya and Gunze the easiest for me to mix and shoot, while I always seem to have issues and have to play around with Vajello model color before it gets to a ratio I am happy with. You will also find certain colors within a range will act differently. (Tamiya yellow for me). There are others out there that are the exact opposite.

In terms of thinners I've used many out there and my favorites are the Ultimate and I still use the Vallejo. I spray both straight from the bottle at about 20-22 psi. I make many passes with light coats, particularly with the white.

Keep at it. You will find it 'clicks' at some point and it will get easier.