Global Scale Modeller

My entry for Warring Weather.
I might alter the decals and/or paint scheme in some way, I will see how my fancy takes me.


I think this is an old Hasegawa model kit.

As you can see, only seven stages to this kit.

The decals are by Cartograph so they should be good.





For those of you who enjoy it (or those with nothing better to do), here's some blurb to read:

In early 1937, as his previous design, the Hawker Hurricane was entering production, Sydney Camm commenced work on its successor. The chief designer at Hawker Aircraft, Camm based his new fighter around the Napier Sabre engine which was capable of around 2,200 hp. A year later, his efforts found a demand when the Air Ministry issued Specification F.18/37 which called for a fighter designed around either the Sabre or the Rolls-Royce Vulture. Concerned about the reliability of the new Sabre engine, Camm created two designs, the "N" and "R" which centred on the Napier and Rolls-Royce power plants respectively. The Napier-powered design later received the name Typhoon while the Rolls-Royce-powered aircraft was dubbed Tornado. Though the Tornado design flew first, its performance proved disappointing and the project was later cancelled.

To accommodate Napier Sabre, the Typhoon design featured a distinctive chin-mounted radiator. Camm's initial design utilise unusually thick wings which created a stable gun platform and allowed for ample fuel capacity. In constructing the fuselage, Hawker employed a mix of techniques including duralumin and steel tubes forward and a flush-riveted, semi-monocoque structure aft.

The aircraft's initial armament consisted of twelve .30 cal. machine guns (Typhoon IA) but was later switched to four, belt-fed 20 mm Hispano Mk II cannon (Typhoon IB). Work on the new fighter continued after the beginning of World War II in September 1939. On February 24, 1940, the first Typhoon prototype took to skies with test pilot Philip Lucas at the controls.

Hi pourquoi61, to the WW build, yea I just entered as well a couple days ago myself. Another Hawker fan as well (well maybe as of last week, so new to aircraft, lol) yea Ive got a Hurricane (really simple monogram) made at the same time it seems back in the late 30's as you mentioned. I wish you luck! and that kit looks really nice too.

Hmmm both Hawker planes and we both have the same Robby... seems like we are on the right track! lol

DrSprue wrote: Sun Jul 02, 2017 2:02 am Hi pourquoi61, to the WW build, yea I just entered as well a couple days ago myself. Another Hawker fan as well (well maybe as of last week, so new to aircraft, lol) yea Ive got a Hurricane (really simple monogram) made at the same time it seems back in the late 30's as you mentioned. I wish you luck! and that kit looks really nice too.

Hmmm both Hawker planes and we both have the same Robby... seems like we are on the right track! lol

Yes I noticed Robby but looks like you nailed yours,as I am new to lighting up kits,but it was fun and I am delighted with it.
On another note some of the old Monogram its go together well and scrub up nice. I shall watch your build and enter the summer sci fi soon.
Good luck and many thanks.
Michael

Following the kit instructions I removed the parts for the cockpit ready for assembly and painting.

The interior and framing were painted with Citadel Warboss Green and the instrument panel matte black. Blobs of red and yellow were placed on the throttle knobs for interest. The decal sheet provides a decal for the dashboard.

This kit has a cockpit side section which has to be attached to the aircraft once assembled, I did this first so that the edges and panels fit flush.

Once the fuselage sides are offered up you can see a large gap which needs filler.

Interior fitted. I know the green is too bright but hardly any of it will be seen once glued together.

Glued and waiting for filler.

Wings glued. I am not putting the rockets on, only the bombs, thus making it a fighter-bomber.
Decals are on order.

Holes drilled out before gluing wing halves together. Glue together, fill and sand.



That's all for today.
Thanks for dropping by.

Looking really nice so far Mike!

Can I borrow some of those cockpit parts from the top post! Yea seems the monogram mold I have for my plane (that was made back in the 60's) didnt have any at all! hehe!

Italeri did a nice job on that kit.

Fast work! Looks good so far!

You gotta admit the Typhoon is one tough looking bird!

Gord

twotterdriver wrote: Sat Jul 08, 2017 7:28 pm Fast work! Looks good so far!

You gotta admit the Typhoon is one tough looking bird!

Gord

Real heavy duty aircraft,apart from the tail that used to break off killing the poor pilot.

That's coming together really nicely mate - looking forward to seeing how you turn this out

Tomcat64 wrote: Tue Jul 11, 2017 9:40 am That's coming together really nicely mate - looking forward to seeing how you turn this out

Yes fast build so far,and thank you.

I picked out the panel lines with Tamiya matt black.




Once dry the underside was sprayed with Tamiya XF-83 Medium Sea Gray.

Then it looked like this.

I added a spot of white to the original colour to give a little high light.

It does not show up well in the photo.

Thanks for dropping by.

Oh thats looking really nice. That dark black, grayed over painting is sure impressive.

DrSprue wrote: Fri Jul 14, 2017 3:07 am Oh thats looking really nice. That dark black, grayed over painting is sure impressive.

Thank you sir hope to replicate this on the top also.

On with the build, cockpit masked and stuck on, the underside needs to be masked.
Top colours chosen.



On with the paint.
Tamiya XF-82 Ocean Grey.




This is when I found out that I need some more filler.
So I masked and filled.



DON'T STOP ME .......
Tamiya XF-81 Dark Green 2.



This filler will be sanded and then given a respray to cover it.

Thanks for dropping by.

Looking nice, Ive used squadron green for a while but finding it a little harder and it seems so heavy and needing a lot of sanding. I see your using milliput? Is that a little nicer? I hear PPP (perfect plastic putty) is the best but as yet cannot find it locally. its looking great so far.

DrSprue wrote: Sun Jul 16, 2017 9:41 pm Looking nice, Ive used squadron green for a while but finding it a little harder and it seems so heavy and needing a lot of sanding. I see your using milliput? Is that a little nicer? I hear PPP (perfect plastic putty) is the best but as yet cannot find it locally. its looking great so far.

I use perfect plastic putty but I have used it all up, Milliput is great because while still soft you can run a cotton bud (q-tip) and smooth it over thus
reduce sanding.It takes a little longer as you have to mix the two parts together.

Oh thats cool, I got to get some of both!

That's coming along really well - nice catch on filling the gap too!

Some great work so far!

Lysus wrote: Fri Jul 21, 2017 4:56 pm Some great work so far!

Many thanks, it is a fun build.

On with the build, so after some sanding and a small touch up the model is ready for decals.

This was handy as my decals had arrived.



My plan is to do the same aircraft but in the fighter/bomber role with the bubble canopy.
The Typhoon was first produced with forward-opening "car door" style.From early 1942 a rear-view mirror was mounted in a perspex blister moulded into the later "car-door" canopy roofs. This modification was not very successful, because the mirror was subject to vibration. the pilot's visibility was still restricted by the heavy frames and the clutter of equipment under the rear canopy; from August 1943, as an interim measure, pending the introduction of the new "bubble" canopy and cut-down dorsal fairing, the aerial mast and its associated bracing was removed and replaced with a whip aerial further back on the rear fuselage. Starting in January 1943, R8809 was used to test a new, clear, one piece sliding "bubble" canopy and its associated new windscreen structure which had slimmer frames which, together with the "cut-down" rear dorsal fairing, provided a far superior all-around field of view to the car-door type. From November 1943 all production aircraft, starting with JR333, were to be so fitted. However, the complex modifications required to the fuselage and a long lead time for new components to reach the production line meant that it took some time before the new canopy became standard.
The sad thing is that the pilot of this a/c stopped flying this a/c when it was converted so I have used a different code letter.
Sorry if this upsets anyone but it is my build and "Frankly my dear I don't give a damn!"
The model was given a coat of Tamiya clear and once dry the decals were put on.



Thanks for dropping by!

On with the build.
A dark dirt wash.


Once dry wipe off with a damp cloth or kitchen roll.




You can see that I have added the bomb racks on the last shot.
Wheels and other bits and bobs painted.

Undercarriage on, prop and a few glass bits to be added.


I am now waiting for two 250lb bombs to arrive.
A little bit more weathering to be added yet, then done.
Thanks for dropping by

Ooooooo....well done.

Man... that wash came out so nice!!

I cant wait to try that on my plane... no depressed panel lines tho.. just rivets.

That's really starting to come to life - very nice work

I love the way those clay washes make all the details pop out.

GORGEOUS!!!
How long did you leave the dark wash on???

Lysus wrote: Wed Jul 26, 2017 7:15 pm Ooooooo....well done.

This kit just begs to be built,is easy to builds and just loves paint and washes.
Thank you.

DrSprue wrote: Wed Jul 26, 2017 7:17 pm Man... that wash came out so nice!!

I cant wait to try that on my plane... no depressed panel lines tho.. just rivets.

It will pick out the rivet detail if used.
Good is it not?
The wash I mean.

Tomcat64 wrote: Thu Jul 27, 2017 9:15 am That's really starting to come to life - very nice work

I love the way those clay washes make all the details pop out.

They do a great job.

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Thu Jul 27, 2017 4:24 pm GORGEOUS!!!
How long did you leave the dark wash on???

You leave them till they are dry depending on room temp.
Not long 1 hour.
Thank you it is the wash not me.

pourquoi61 wrote: Thu Jul 27, 2017 7:08 pm

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Thu Jul 27, 2017 4:24 pm GORGEOUS!!!
How long did you leave the dark wash on???

You leave them till they are dry depending on room temp.
Not long 1 hour.
Thank you it is the wash not me.

Sorry, but that is like hearing from Leonardo Da Vinci about the Mona lisa, its the paint and the brushes, its not me. hehe!! No dude, just an awesome job on that plane.

I wish I could come close to a quarter of that skill.

DrSprue wrote: Thu Jul 27, 2017 7:14 pm

pourquoi61 wrote: Thu Jul 27, 2017 7:08 pm

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Thu Jul 27, 2017 4:24 pm GORGEOUS!!!
How long did you leave the dark wash on???

You leave them till they are dry depending on room temp.
Not long 1 hour.
Thank you it is the wash not me.

Sorry, but that is like hearing from Leonardo Da Vinci about the Mona lisa, its the paint and the brushes, its not me. hehe!! No dude, just an awesome job on that plane.

I wish I could come close to a quarter of that skill.

Mr Da Vinci should not be in the same book never mind the same page.
Thank you any way.

I ask because I am always so chicken with the washes and wind up taking them off too soon...so wipe everything off out of the grooves before it dries

pourquoi61 wrote: Thu Jul 27, 2017 7:41 pm

DrSprue wrote: Thu Jul 27, 2017 7:14 pm

pourquoi61 wrote: Thu Jul 27, 2017 7:08 pm
You leave them till they are dry depending on room temp.
Not long 1 hour.
Thank you it is the wash not me.

Sorry, but that is like hearing from Leonardo Da Vinci about the Mona lisa, its the paint and the brushes, its not me. hehe!! No dude, just an awesome job on that plane.

I wish I could come close to a quarter of that skill.

Mr Da Vinci should not be in the same book never mind the same page.
Thank you any way.

I think you greatly underestimate yourself. The only reason Da Vinci became Da Vinci was because he bent the rules, otherwise his skills are the same as ours. Yours wont be because you will not allow it. Believe in it and it shall become real.

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Thu Jul 27, 2017 7:48 pm I ask because I am always so chicken with the washes and wind up taking them off too soon...so wipe everything off out of the grooves before it dries

The was I use is a clay based wash,try to go 90 degrees to the panel line.

My bombs have arrived but I have to say that I have never used resin or photo etch before.


I remove the two parts of the bombs off the resin block( REMEMBER TO WEAR A DUST MASK WHEN CUTTING RESIN ).
The parts are very small and they have to be sanded flat for a good fit.
So I buried the part in blu-tac to help give a good hold.


The two halves are then super glued together and sanded smooth.

Time to use the brass/metal parts. Using a sharp knife and a glass mat to cut on, the bomb tail fins were removed and sanded smooth.
At this juncture I realised just how small the parts are.
I stood one fin in some blu-tac and with tweezers placed the other one over the top, into place and glued with super glue.


THE SMALL PARTS WERE DRIVING ME CRAZY AS I PICKED THEM UP DROPPED THEM THEN LOST ONE AND FOUND IT AGAIN.
Once dry, I stuck them on the bombs.

The tail ring was curved around a paint brush to produce a circle. The metal was very hard to bend untill I remembered to heat the metal part over a flame, making the part softer and more malleable.


Once glued on to the tail fins the bombs were painted olive green.

All I had to do now was add the last parts to the plane and done.
On looking at the decals I thought that they looked too new on a weather-worn plane, so to tone them down I put a drop of flat white into some matte clear and sprayed over the model and decals.
This is the sort of spray mixture needed.


Last bits on and done.
Thanks for dropping by.

Thats looking really nice, cool job on the bombs.

Thanks very much, it was a steep learning curve but I know how to better approach it next time.

I think you did really well for a first time with the aftermarket! Better than I could have.