Global Scale Modeller

This is my build for Sam Mccord a man ive come to know, trust and admire, he's become a great friend and is generous beyond belief, i find a lot of my history syncs with Sams in some areas and we have suffered many similar health issues, Sam you are a great Friend and i feel honored to know you and proud to call you my friend, this build is for you and a symbol of my friendship with you. Mark (SprueSurgeon)

2017-08-16_11-57-09 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr

2017-08-16_11-56-29 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr

2017-08-16_11-55-30 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr

2017-08-16_11-55-49 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr

So we are off, starting off the Porsche 911 GT2 build, first things first i sand down the body lightly with a Ultimate sander 1200 grit and then prime after priming i notice two seams along the top of the front wings that need removing, so i remove them and then re prime again with Ultimate Grey Primer, i have thinned it down very slightly with some Ultimate thinner as i have a smaller front nozzle and although the primer will fire through my Iwata Eclipse .2 needle it requires a piece of thinner to prevent tip dry and help it hit its target wet.

Primed Porsche 911 gt2 shell by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Porsche after priming

Ive primed the floor plan and wheel arches and started to add the final colours and detail paint the base of the engine which is moulded as one piece along with the rest of the chasis, as i'm brush painting i decided to thin the Tamiya paint with MLT this makes a huge difference to brush painting, also use a wide brush where possible to keep brush marks to a minimum.

20170819_224352 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Wheel arches painted their final colour

The two images below show some awfully placed EPM (Ejector Pin Marks), these were on both suspension springs and proved a problem to remove, in the end i had to use a new craft blade in my Swann & Morton and take great care, the second image is one of the springs with the EPM Marks removed, Black was designated as the correct colour but i decided to go with Tamiyas X8 Lemon Yellow to add some interest to the underneath.

2017-08-20_07-14-27 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Dreadfully placed Ejector Pin Marks (EPM)

20170819_222237 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
After removal and painted with X8 Lemon Yellow, X12 Gold Leaf & XF16 Flat Alluminium

20170819_224336 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
I started detailing the underside of the porsche, the floor pans are painted in Tamiya XF19 Sky Grey with various amounts of Tamiya XF16 Flat Aluminium, XF56 Metallic Grey, finer detail was X1 Black Gloss and X12 Gold Leaf.

In the final section for the build this time i added all the seperate pieces to cocktail sticks with a hot glue gun (and yes it works) and primed, i then painted colours as required and sprayed the colours as designated once assembled i left to dry and then touched up as required by hand etc, left to dry again, and the attatched to the chassis, the instructrions tewll you to glue the axle in and then attach a stabilising bar, i recommend assembling the rear wheel suspension out of the car and then add to the car lateras it flexes slightly if you follow Tamiyas directions, dry fitting will show this up though.
Porsche 911 GT2 front suspension and axle assembly. by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Rear wheel assembly ready to be added to the kit


20170819_222446 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Ive reached this stage now and the rear suspension etc are all assembled and ready to go.

Thanks for Looking.

Sprue
Mark
PhotoMorph

Welcome back to part 2 0f the Porsche build

After building the suspension on the back i had to add the exhaust system, for this i airbrushed an MRP chrome and then added varying amounts of MRP exhaust violet and exhaust blue, the effect was not very good though so i instead decided to mix these 3 colours all together in a small medicine cup which gave a more pleasing look , although not what i had in mind.

20170821_144102 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Exhaust system now on, exhausting work!

once the rear was finished underneath it was time to turn my attention to the front, its worth noting that MANY parts do not glue together on the front as it has independant suspension and steering, the EPM marks were still present and i painted the springs in yellow again and added yellow to the molded hydraulic brake system, the discs have perforations through them and can be seen through the wheels so ideally needed drilling with possibly a 0.5mm drill bit, which i unfortunately do not own, so in this case the best i can do is to place a dark wash on them or paint the holes black, it all gets gently clipped together and then lowered into the front underside of the car and four points are glued down so that the wheels can turn and move up and down.

Epm marks on suspension spring. by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
The Front suspension also had awful EPM

20170823_153301 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Most of the underneath is done

The last thing i am going to do today is clip all the items off there sprues except the clear ones and the chromed pieces and get them glued onto cocktail sticks or, in the case of very small pieces stuck onto some old card with double sided tape and then prime it all with Ultimate grey primer.

20170823_232354 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
larger parts can be either hot glued or cyna(super glue) onto a cocktail stick and then placed in polystyrene or as i have done in this example a car sponge available for about £0.50 !!

20170823_232323 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Smaller parts can be stuck on some card board and then primed/painted.

Thanks for reading, next time we start painting the body!

So i got started painting the shell, first i primed with Ultimate Grey then i let that sit for 12 hours and then using the Buffer (green side 3000 grit) i just VERY lightly took the high spots off and then used Tamiyas X2 black gloss sprayed a light mist coat before going over with a covering coat, i then decided i was leaving it for 36 hours and turned my attention to the wheels, i decided not to bleach the wheels as the centres were gold, i also decided not to mask and instead painted the gold in freehand.

2017-08-29_02-11-07 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr

It wasn't until afterward i realized the centre nut has to remain silver, once painted i pushed the tyres on and started to remove the centre seam line on each of the tyres and scuff each of the flat areas to give them a slick half used look.

2017-08-29_02-12-16 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr

With that done the final item that evening was to start prepping everything for the car interior, i then added all interior items to cocktail sticks and primed everything with Ultimate Grey primer and i started to paint each internal item by hand using the various Tamiya Colours X1 Black, X4 Blue, X7 Red and XF Flat Alluminum mixed with a couple of drops of MLT each and left to dry for over 12 hours.
The following morning each item was glued into place except the drivers seat which remained primed and unpainted, i was tackling this next, i airbrushed the seat black and hand painted the red accent colours, after it had dried it was then time to add the decals to the seat and leave for 24 hours.

2017-08-29_02-11-46 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Internal parts ready for painting glued onto cocktail sticks.

20170828_145617 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Internal parts going in.

20170828_145628 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Small parts on cocktail sticks

2017-08-29_02-18-15 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Recardo seat painted and with decals/seatbelts on.

And thats where im going to finish this episode, thanks for watching, dont forget to check out my channel.

Looking great so far mate

I managed to acheive a very nice finish with Tamiya X1 black gloss this would be suitable for the decals to go direct onto, i attatched the rear spoiler and any other bodywork except the wing mirrors, window wiper and interior rear view mirror, these parts are easily knocked of, they will be added last.

2017-08-29_02-11-32 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Prior to decalling

Then with a bowl of warm water at my side and some MicroSet and MicroSol i started to add the decals on, i looked at the sheet and spoke to people who had built this kit before, so i was aware the the main two decals that covered the rear arches were considered to be the hardest numbers 9 & 11 or numbers 64 and 65 depending on which option you went with so i tackled these areas first and managed to settle them without too much fuss, i then left these overnight before going further.
Note in addition to the numbers mentioned you should also consider 5,6,7,8,61 & 62, as these were extremely awkward and at least two never made it onto the body

2017-08-29_02-12-44 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Decaling Commences

I also added the decals internaly to the dashboard, the dials were added and left and then before positioning i dripped a small quantity od Micro Krystal Klear over each dial, do not worry that it looks white when it first goes in, once dry it will look crystal klear and give the illusion of glass over the dials.

There are lots of other things going on while the decals are drying for example i built the roll cage and added the dashboard, once that was done the car interior was finished by this stage the wheels were dry and they too were added onto the car, that only left a cover that required painting and adding to the base of the car. The bottom half of the car is now finished.

20170828_201514 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Micro Krystal Klear added to each dial, this will dry clear as glass.

20170828_145638 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
The Dashboard with its dials in place prior to gluing

20170903_095756 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Decals being placed on the shell.

Attention now turned to the shell proper and i added decals one side at a time and then allow them to dry before moving on to the other side and then the roof, once completed the decals were left for three days with me occasionally adding some more Micro Sol/set to help the more difficult decals conform to the body.

NEXT TIME we finish the shell and have the final reveal!!!! thanks for watching, as always if you have any questions just ask..

Very nice work there mate

once decalling was finished i turned my attention to getting the top coat down, the top gloss coat needs to be as flat and clear as possible, for those that have a dedicated set up and no animals in the vacinity to speak of should probably look to a 2K set up such as zero paints diamond finish available for around £28 available from zero paints (they also have a cheaper version in their range for around £21) However i have small pets and a very small basic extractor so this was a definite no go, the two choices i had were Tamiyas X22 clear gloss or Mr Color GX100, the later has a slightly better track record in the results are and after careful thought and listening to all the hangout members i decided on GX100, i followed the below.

Spray a VERY light mist coat
Allow to dry for 15 minutes
Another Light coat
Allow to dry for a further 15 minutes
Spray a normal top coat
Allow to dry for 30 minutes
Spray with a WET coat
allow 2 minutes
give a light spray over of MLT (Mr Levelling Thinner)
LEAVE FOR A MINIMUM OF 72 hours

After the car had been left i checked on it and noticed it had one of the worst cases of orange peel i had seen, ( picture below, orange peel is when the finish resembles that of an orange)
i was lucky i had put so many levels of top coat on this meant i could sand back the poor finish and not damge the decals, which i proceeded to do straight away


20170904_104806 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Unfortunately my first attempt with GX100 was less than successful

Once sanded back i had a nice smooth finish and re applied GX100 with the same rules i applied above.
With that out the way i added the door cards to either side of the car and went around and made sure everything was ok, it was at this point that i started to paint the window wipers, wing mirrors and door handels.

20170904_111400 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
I had to smooth everything out so i could respray, i had to be careful not to sand into the decals.

72 HOURS LATER

The crystal parts were now carefuklly removed from there respective sprues and were then masked and primed with Ultimate black primer and followed by XF85 Tamiya Black rubber.
After this the clear panels were added to the bodywork using Micro Krystal Klear to seat them in position and avoid fogging or damaging the glass and once that had set i went around the edges with micro krystal klear to seal the edges and give a stronger join.

20170909_123501 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Wing mirrors were among some of the smaller pieces that would be affixed last.

20170909_122433 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
The windows were masked primed with Ultimate primer and then sprayed with XF85 Tamiya Black rubber

20170909_122901 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Internally the windows were sealed with Micro Krystal Klear although any PVA mix will do.

20170909_122409 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Brake lights etc were painted in clear variantsa of Tamiya and Revell paint

All that remained was to paint the rear brake light and indicator lights in there respective colours and add them too the car, the headlights went in next again with krystal klear along with there klear covers and FINALLY we place the car shell onto the floor plan and we are done.
You can go and see the finished images of the car build in the reveal section of the build threads
This has been a great build with a kit bought for me by a great man and in return built and dedicated to a fantastic friend, great bloke and all round crazy fatherless person Sam Mccord!

20170909_195947 by Mark Johnson, on Flickr
Sam Mccord

Its looking great i had problems with gx100 i mix it with level thinner it came out like a white powder dont know what i did wrong never use it since. But anyway you have done a great job

Hmmm it's funny you say that, I too mixed with MLT and also had areas where it dried with a dry ice type effect like frost! It remained until I went over the model at the end with a light mist coat of MLT and then it went, but there is def something amiss there. Thanks for commenting.