Global Scale Modeller

Here is another kit from under the bed, I have three boxes of the same model, two are Matchbox and one is Revell. The model will be OOB with maybe some little extra detail, we will see.











Looking forward to this one.
Thanks for dropping by.

Well here we go.
I start by spraying the interior Tamiya XF-5 Flat Green, so seats, side walls, floor and bulkheads.

I am going to do some plumbing on the engine.
For this I used some plastic coated wire which came off some electrical equipment.
It was holding the plug and wire together.

The engine was painted with Citadel Paints Boltgun and Runefang Steel.
A.K.A gunmetal and silver.

The aircraft's frame work was painted Citadel Bleached Bone.
I have a tremor in my hands so the paint job is a little rough. So when dry, I ran a very thin mix of the original paint XF-5 around the frame work. Letting capillary action tidy up the lines.


Better now. I just mixed the paint with water.
I made some seat belts from Tamiya tape and some fuse wire wrapped around a triangular file.
Not brilliant but it fills the seats out a little.

Next I painted the cockpit dash board with Citadel Rotting Flesh (nice names for paints) and did some brown wavy lines with Mournfang Brown.
Once dry it was given a wash of Baal Red

A.K.A cream, brown and a red wash.


In the last picture I had placed the decals on and was going to use some wood glue for the dial glass, but it was too thick and old.
So in the end I used Future floor polish.
Seats in place.

Instrument panels in place.

Seats glued in and dry fitted together.


Thanks for dropping by.

On with the build, here is the engine in situ with plumbing and attached to the engine fire wall.
This is not how the instructions ask you to do it.


I then dry fit the front engine cover and placed the parts onto the plane, dry fitting the top cover you could see straight away that there was a large gap!!!!
I removed the engine block and frame and made the holes a little bigger to slide the engine frame further in.

I then sanded down the rear part of the engine to get it to fit closer to the fire wall.

After more sanding and test fitting I glued the engine covers on to the engine and started to remove some of the frame at the bottom to get a better fit.


Getting mad now
Looking at the photo of the completed model on the instructions I could see that it was not my building skills.
Look at the cowel gap.

So with the the help of some tape and glue the engine and cover were glued on.

The rudder and tail planes were fixed into position.

I drilled a few holes for rigging with the help of some tape, measuring and marking with pencil and the placing on the model.

That's all for today thanks for dropping by.

I am following along

Read a great book about a WWII Canadian Bomber pilot's experiences and they trained heavily on these Tiger Moths to 'earn their wings'
I like using my Citadel paints, but man the names they give are ridiculous. Appeals to the gamer crowd I suppose
Dripping Snot Green..Severed Limb Gangrenous Yellow....

hey pourquoi61 its starting to look great and yours is definitely going to look far better than the Revell one. I'm looking forward to following this one

cheers
Paul

Great work in sorting out that front end mate!

That's coming together well

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Wed Oct 04, 2017 7:35 pm I am following along

Read a great book about a WWII Canadian Bomber pilot's experiences and they trained heavily on these Tiger Moths to 'earn their wings'
I like using my Citadel paints, but man the names they give are ridiculous. Appeals to the gamer crowd I suppose
Dripping Snot Green..Severed Limb Gangrenous Yellow....

Yes they are good and cover well, dry fast as well as nice colours.
Still working on the paint job want to do something different.
Thanks.

Quax wrote: Thu Oct 05, 2017 8:01 am hey pourquoi61 its starting to look great and yours is definitely going to look far better than the Revell one. I'm looking forward to following this one

cheers
Paul

Thank you Paul, the build apart from engine fit is good.
Another old kit.

Tomcat64 wrote: Thu Oct 05, 2017 10:31 am Great work in sorting out that front end mate!

That's coming together well

Brute force wins the day,
Thank you.

Once the tape had been removed I needed to sort out the gaps on the cowl.

The tail fillet needed some attention also.

A little bit of Perfect Plastic Putty to the rescue.



Once sanded smooth a light coat of Tamiya XF-3 Flat Yellow was dusted on and left to dry.
Once dry a second coat was sprayed on.




I then gave the paint a gloss coat and left to dry.
That's all for today.
Thanks for dropping by.

On with the build, I masked off the yellow paintwork. The lower wing on the aircraft is a lighter shade of the top wing colours.
So I took Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth and added XF-2.@ 1ml-0.5ml.
Mixed in a small container(Keep the rest of the paint for touching up any missed paint work)and sprayed on the lower wing.


Once dry I took some paper and cut out the camouflage pattern for the lower wing and placed it on the wing using small balls of Blu-tac just to lift the masks slightly to give a soft camouflage edge.

I then mixed the green Tamiya XF-58 Olive Green with some XF-2 White at the same ratio as the brown mix(1ml-0.5ml) and sprayed over the lower wing.

Paper masks.

Once removed.

To protect the paintwork and also to weather it I mixed a tiny spot of white to matte clear, and sprayed over the lower wing making extra passes in the wing fabric's depressions

After leaving the paint to dry the lower wing was covered with cling film and taped down at the edges. Tamiya XF-52 was sprayed over all of the top wing and aircraft body.


Paper masks were cut again and placed on the model using same method as before, prior to spraying with Tamiya XF-58.




Then a coat of semigloss was sprayed once the masking had been removed.

That's all for today and thanks for dropping by.

Great progress mate - and interesting use of clingfilm! That one's gone into the notebook for future reference

Tomcat64 wrote: Thu Oct 12, 2017 11:41 am Great progress mate - and interesting use of clingfilm! That one's gone into the notebook for future reference

Cheers thanks, yes it is quick easy and most of all cheap!

Well done on the work so far mate

looking superb so far, great stuff Pourquoi and why not?

Paul

gaz45 wrote: Fri Oct 13, 2017 11:26 am Well done on the work so far mate

Thank you sir, tricky parts to come I think getting the top wing to line up.

Quax wrote: Fri Oct 13, 2017 12:22 pm looking superb so far, great stuff Pourquoi and why not?

Paul

Why not indeed and thank you.

Lost my mojo on this one guys, but now it is back.
So I glued the two parts of the top wing together and glued the fuel tank/radiator bottom to the assembled wing. My plan is to then tape the top part of said radiator/fuel tank together, allowing the wing to set solid and thus I could fix the top wing on. Once on remove the cover to drill the holes for the rigging.

Alas there was a lot of movement under the joining tabs so I packed the underside with plastic card.

While this was drying the wing struts were painted with Vallejo Mahogany Brown. 70.846.

I then drilled the holes for the rigging.


Once the top wing was glued on I could not get to weather it, so this was done first by cutting long thin strips of Tamiya tape into thin strips.
These were placed on the underside of the wing like so.

Then sprayed with a mix of black and brown paint. Sorry, no mix ratio just guess work.

Then the tape was removed to reveal.

Happy with this I glued the struts on and once nearly dry I attempted to put the top wing on. ATTEMPTED.

If you look closely you can see that the struts are upside down!
I did not notice this for some time and it was driving me nuts.

Now the struts were put on the right way around the top wing would still not sit right.
It was then that I noticed the incline on one of the bottom wings was incorrect.
It was a case of softening the wing glue and adjusting the camber.
I then made a small jig out of sponge foam and tape.

So with the middle struts on the top wing was left to set.

Voila.



So after lots of messing around (my fault entirely) she is ready for rigging.
Thanks for dropping by.

looking first class mate! So many tips to remember, the cling film is a great idea as is the thin strips of tape. Keep the mojo going because she's a beauty

Paul

Fabulous work mate - really glad you found your mojo for this one.

That's great work on sorting out the angles on the wings - really impressive.

And I already used the cling-film tip

Looks absolutely fantastic! I have to build a double decker for my own once!

Quax wrote: Tue Oct 31, 2017 7:37 am looking first class mate! So many tips to remember, the cling film is a great idea as is the thin strips of tape. Keep the mojo going because she's a beauty

Paul

Thank you sir, the tape thing I picked up from a magazine.

Tomcat64 wrote: Tue Oct 31, 2017 4:45 pm Fabulous work mate - really glad you found your mojo for this one.

That's great work on sorting out the angles on the wings - really impressive.

And I already used the cling-film tip

Thank you so much, should have spotted it earlier though.
Glad you liked the cling film tip I saw it somewhere else a while a go.

papatika wrote: Wed Nov 01, 2017 4:01 pm Looks absolutely fantastic! I have to build a double decker for my own once!

Thanks you still a lot to do yet.
Start with one that does not have a lot of rigging.
Roland C2 or a Fokker DR 1.

Any time is rigging time USA, sorry for that if we have any Kiss fans on board.
I do not have any E Z line so it is out with the fishing line.


The little thing resting on the box is my trusty super glue applicator. It is just a sewing needle with the last part of the eye removed and a little bit of electric cable cover covering the pointy bit.
I dip the pronged end in a small amount of glue and transfer it to the place where it is needed.
Capillary action takes over on the picking up of the glue and when the two prongs touch the model it works again on the transfer of the glue.
The downside is that it does slowly block up, but the dried glue is removed with a sharp knife.
The method that I use, is to cut a longer than needed length of fishing line, tie a small knot towards one end and pull it tight to make it as small as possible.
NB. One cross-over of the line is all that is needed.
Then pass it through one of the holes on the top wing making sure that the knot does not pass straight through the hole, just fitting snugly in the hole itself. Then pull the knot back out of the hole, add a drop of superglue to the whole and pull the line back again so the knot sits in the hole. Thread the other end of the line into the intended hole as indicated via the instructions and then add some weight. I use one or more tiny clamps to hold the rigging taut.

Leave to dry and then once dry glue the line to the bottom wing.
Repeat until you get this sort of thing.

As you can see in the next picture sometimes a few clamps are needed to keep the line taut while the glue is drying.

To complete the front wing rigging, I then removed the fuel tank cover from off the top wing, which was only held in place with tape, then passed the line through the holes for the completion of this part (the reason for doing it this way was because sanding this part would have been very difficult).

I think the the old tiger needs a shave. LOL.

Clip off the protruding line and sand smooth.


You might need to add some filler or superglue to fill the small depressions that the holes have left.



Once you are happy with the sanding of the hole, touch-up the area with some paint.
Again I cut some long thin lengths of Tamiya masking tape and placed them on the underside of the lower wing and tail fins.

Spray over the tape lightly with a mix of black and brown paint. I saved the mix that I made for the top wing to keep continuity of the colours.
Once dry, remove.

On with the build. So the next job for me was to paint then assemble the undercarriage and wheels. Parts 70 and 71 had been painted but one of the small struts had gotten broken. I thought it would be easy to replace the two struts from stretched sprue cut down to size.

These will be painted later on in the build, at this point I also placed the tailplane struts on.

So now she looks like this.

The instructions also ask you to add two wheel nuts to the undercarriage.

Once on they look so out of scale, I took them off and cut down the thread.
I then hollowed out the trumpet end of what I think are air speed indicators? Sorry for my ignorance on this point.

These I painted black.
The model was sprayed with clear coat and once dry decals were applied.




Another coat of semi-gloss was sprayed once dry.
Thanks for dropping by.

its a lovely plane Pourquoi! you've done a great job with that yellow and your "how to" with the rigging has convinced me that I'm waay to hamfisted to even contemplate it!!

cheers

Paul

Great work mate - especially on the rigging and the tidying up afterwards.

I may have to steal your superglue needle applicator device too - that's a really neat solution.

Looking forward to seeing the final reveal shots now.

Quax wrote: Thu Nov 16, 2017 4:32 pm its a lovely plane Pourquoi! you've done a great job with that yellow and your "how to" with the rigging has convinced me that I'm waay to hamfisted to even contemplate it!!

cheers

Paul

Thank you so much but it is easy, just slow.
Michael.

Tomcat64 wrote: Fri Nov 17, 2017 9:29 am Great work mate - especially on the rigging and the tidying up afterwards.

I may have to steal your superglue needle applicator device too - that's a really neat solution.

Looking forward to seeing the final reveal shots now.

Thank you not done yet with the rigging, but I have been given some easy type line elastic from a friend.
Well I hope it works well for you.
Cheers.
Michael.

Okay the last few things to do.
I have been given some easy line type elastic from a friend who can not remember where he had it from.
As you will see from the next shot I have already made a start but I will make a walkthrough guide.
So, pull out enough line to complete the stretch of rigging that you are doing

I started with the top hole first.
Place a small amount of super glue in the start hole, pick up the thread and place in the hole, waiting for the glue to grab before letting go of the thread.

Next I passed the thread through the pre-drilled hole in the model.

Then I placed a small amount of super glue on top of the actuator, pulled the thread tight on the underside and while under tension I lifted the thread and placed it on the top actuator keeping tension all the time till the glue has grabbed hold.

Measure the line against the hole and cut off the extra. Drop a spot of glue in the hole and stretch the line, pushing the end of into the hole, hold while the glue grabs then once dry release. Repeat the process till the rigging has been done.


The easy line method is far quicker than fishing line, but I used what material I had at the time.
I painted the prop tips and gave the cockpit screen a coat of Klear ready for painting and final fixing.

Thanks for dropping by.
Michael.

Excellent job so far mate!!