Global Scale Modeller

So, after dioramas then figures its back to a good old straight forward AFV.

Cyber Hobby's SU-85M Tank Destroyer. I know sweet FA about Russian armour so there's no blurb, I know the T34 won the war and that there were thousands of the things but beyond that, the Rusky vehicles are a complete mystery to yours truly.



Its a Dragon kit but without all the nonsense. No mountain of parts that don't get used, no crushed tracks and no £70 for a kit. You could call it Diet Dragon, or Dragon Light!

What you do get is nicely packaged sprues, beautiful plastic, straight forward assembly and Magic Tracks



Running gear was first up - nice to be back on familiar ground.





Upper hull is a one piece affair with more hatches than I've seen before on a vehicle of this type.



Sits nicely on the lower hull, no warps or worries





Putting on the greeblies - lots of greeblies







The bench has got a familiar feel to it again. Its got that AFV early doors look. Lovely stuff



About four hours work all in. Very pleasant start

Nice choice of armor. I'll be following this one for sure.

Russian armor is the best in my opinion.

Don't tell Uncle Sam!

hoooo i love that huge cutting mat!

Vindicare wrote: Thu Oct 05, 2017 11:32 pm hoooo i love that huge cutting mat!

Yep that's nice and when one side is looking a bit rough you can flip it around.....good idea that is.

Cyberhobby has a new look to the boxes....

Nice choice

Looking really good there, very enjoyable to read. Personally I'm not a huge fan of Cyber Hobby, to my experience it's all the cost of a Dragon kit without the finer points of dragon kits.

TheNordus wrote: Fri Oct 06, 2017 6:38 am Looking really good there, very enjoyable to read. Personally I'm not a huge fan of Cyber Hobby, to my experience it's all the cost of a Dragon kit without the finer points of dragon kits.

Yes it's normally one of their older molds with a extra tossed in to make you feel better with possibly the exception of the limited run white boxes.

TheNordus wrote: Fri Oct 06, 2017 6:38 am Looking really good there, very enjoyable to read. Personally I'm not a huge fan of Cyber Hobby, to my experience it's all the cost of a Dragon kit without the finer points of dragon kits.

digger303 wrote: Fri Oct 06, 2017 10:22 am
Yes it's normally one of their older molds with a extra tossed in to make you feel better with possibly the exception of the limited run white boxes.

Well its going together nicely so far. No complaints from me. I bought this along with a JS-2M from E-Models, each cost £35 so I'm happy as Larry with them considering the quality v cost.

Stokesy44 wrote: Fri Oct 06, 2017 1:18 pm

TheNordus wrote: Fri Oct 06, 2017 6:38 am Looking really good there, very enjoyable to read. Personally I'm not a huge fan of Cyber Hobby, to my experience it's all the cost of a Dragon kit without the finer points of dragon kits.

digger303 wrote: Fri Oct 06, 2017 10:22 am
Yes it's normally one of their older molds with a extra tossed in to make you feel better with possibly the exception of the limited run white boxes.

Well its going together nicely so far. No complaints from me. I bought this along with a JS-2M from E-Models, each cost £35 so I'm happy as Larry with them considering the quality v cost.

It's looking great...I have 5 cyberhobby kits and currently part way through this one
1:35 Schwerer Panzerspähwagen (Infanteriewagen) (s.SP) (Dragon 6072) originating from 1997 and still sold here for $50, but it isn't worth the money. I was lucky and got it for half that. The molds are very last century and I have already broken one of the machine guns off.. . Although if I was as good as you I would be able to lift it a little to make it more presentable....

digger303 wrote: Sat Oct 07, 2017 12:51 am
It's looking great...I have 5 cyberhobby kits and currently part way through this one
1:35 Schwerer Panzerspähwagen (Infanteriewagen) (s.SP) (Dragon 6072) originating from 1997 and still sold here for $50, but it isn't worth the money. I was lucky and got it for half that. The molds are very last century and I have already broken one of the machine guns off.. . Although if I was as good as you I would be able to lift it a little to make it more presentable....

Very kind of you mate. Sounds like Cyber Hobby are one of those pot luck companies - varying quality based on the age of the kit rather than the age of the box. Looks like I lucked out with this one. Sometimes ignorance is bliss

Finished off the upper hull today with all the remaining greeblies.





The petrol tanks are only dry fitted as they need their joins sanded and the barrel ends added. I'll need to fiddle with the fit too to make them uniform on both sides.



Its a sizeable beast, especially once the barrel goes on. Its a 2 piece barrel (shock, horror, run for your lives ) but it will only need a light sanding once the TET has cured.







Next up will be the wheels and tracks. I'm undecided about adding the wheels and tracks before painting. I'll have to have a look once the upper hull is attached to the lower piece. With the front mudguards on I may not have a choice so I'll test fit them and see if I can still add the tracks afterwards. If not, they'll go on before painting. I've never painted a tank with the tracks on so it will be interesting either way.

Looking good Stokesy. I'm looking forward to more progress from you

She sure is ugly but ugly is usually much more practical when it comes to tools of war.

Took me ages when I did it that way. I used a detail AB to get into all the nooks and crannies then finished with a brush. Worked out OK, but not a my favoured way to do it. I also have a tank with no tracks cause I can't feed the tracks in due to low clearances on the fenders....arrrgg !

I always try to build my tanks with the wheels and tracks off. I did it the other way once, but it was a huge pain. My preferred way does have a little problem in that it's kinda difficult to make the wheels stay on for setting the invidual link tracks unless there are poly caps.

digger303 wrote: Mon Oct 09, 2017 12:34 am Took me ages when I did it that way. I used a detail AB to get into all the nooks and crannies then finished with a brush. Worked out OK, but not a my favoured way to do it. I also have a tank with no tracks cause I can't feed the tracks in due to low clearances on the fenders....arrrgg !

TheNordus wrote: Mon Oct 09, 2017 5:34 am I always try to build my tanks with the wheels and tracks off. I did it the other way once, but it was a huge pain. My preferred way does have a little problem in that it's kinda difficult to make the wheels stay on for setting the invidual link tracks unless there are poly caps.

If I can possibly do it, I will build the tracks in 2 parts, upper and lower sections and paint them (and the wheels) off the vehicle. That is definitely my preferred option.

Wow you didn't hang about after finishing Winters did you!

Looking good so far mate - will be watching what you do with the running gear with interest.

Tomcat64 wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 7:46 am Wow you didn't hang about after finishing Winters did you!

Looking good so far mate - will be watching what you do with the running gear with interest.

Thanks Neil. Its funny, some times, even when I'm free, I don't hit the bench and can go days without doing any kit work. When I finished Winters I made my mind up to increase my bench time. I always enjoy whatever kit I'm working on, I just don't apply myself to actually starting a session.

But enough of the psycho babble. You say the running gear? Well all of yesterday was spent on the running gear mate! First up, I investigated the raised detail on the rubber wheel rims.



They looked iffy to me and I couldn't find any examples of the detail on photos of the real vehicles.




I used Ultimate sanding sticks for the edge and a knife on the walls. The knife left a kind of corrugated look so I switched to using a tapered file first then finishing with the blade. The results were much better. I managed to retain the rim detail (mostly ).

First set of outers done



All done. Only the outers needed work on the walls - thankfully.



Then it was time to do the tracks. I put an upper length together first and was gratified I could get it on and off the wheels with the forward mudguards attached. That means I can paint the vehicle, wheels and tracks separately. Very pleased as I didn't fancy the alternative.




Ready for the other side



I ran into problems with the number of links. On both sides I ended up with probably 1 link too many. There was nothing I could do because the links go 1 smooth, 1 toothed, so you cant just take one away or you have a female to female link and you're stuffed. In the end I overcame it by adding track sag to the upper lengths, this shortened the upper lengths just enough to take the final link. It took hours as 1 side just seemed too long, no matter what I did. I had the ruler out, I compared the lengths when they were off the vehicle. In the end it worked out but I don't know how



I also fitted them too soon after gluing the links together - result was the damn things kept falling apart - the concept of cause and effect is clearly lost on the Stokesy

When both sides were done I finished off with a bit of light relief by sanding the fuel drums, finishing the day in good heart.



Todays efforts will be on applying a little filler to the side bulge of the cupola and to a couple of other places where joins are a little iffy. Then I'll fit the fuel drums and it will be time for priming - luvly jubly.

Looking good there. Do you have a particular vehicle in mind or are you just gonna use whatever decals came in the set?
Also about the roadwheels, if you search for images of "T-34-85 wheels" you should find images of wheels where that pattern is present. It's also present on other manufacturer's kits, so I'd presume it existed on "late" model T-34s where they simplified the rubber trims for manufacturing purposes. I'm sure it rubbed off during driving and normal operations though, similar to the seam on M4 Sherman rubber tires.

TheNordus wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 2:54 pm Looking good there. Do you have a particular vehicle in mind or are you just gonna use whatever decals came in the set?
Also about the roadwheels, if you search for images of "T-34-85 wheels" you should find images of wheels where that pattern is present. It's also present on other manufacturer's kits, so I'd presume it existed on "late" model T-34s where they simplified the rubber trims for manufacturing purposes. I'm sure it rubbed off during driving and normal operations though, similar to the seam on M4 Sherman rubber tires.

I’ll go with kit decals. My knowledge of Rusky armoured units is non-existent. As for the wheels, I’m glad I got rid of the seams, I’m not going for a factory fresh finish so bare rubber should be ok on the balance of probability.

Fired up the booth and the airbrush today. The TD is now in full Ninja Mode





Very chuffed with how the wheels turned out. Looks like my scalping efforts have come up nicely under the primer. The rims look OK and I'm hoping there's just enough texture on the rubber (accidentally) to look good when the paint goes down.



EXTREME CLOSE UP



Tracks done, they'll get a coat of Vallejo Steel before weathering with washes and pigments later on.



I am very much aware of my limitations with an airbrush but this Ultimate primer is beautiful stuff. I get the whole 'self-levelling' thing now. Amazing. I shot the stuff neat, no thinner and I only needed to clean the needle once during the session for a bit of tip drying.





I think I've discovered a new modelling formula - L+I+U=R
Where L = Lack of talent
I = Infinity CR Airbrush
U = Ultimate Primer
R = RESULT

24 hours to cure then its on with the base coat.

Stokesy44 wrote: Tue Oct 10, 2017 4:04 pm
I’ll go with kit decals. My knowledge of Rusky armoured units is non-existent. As for the wheels, I’m glad I got rid of the seams, I’m not going for a factory fresh finish so bare rubber should be ok on the balance of probability.

I know nothing about Soviet armoured units either, and it doesn't help that most of their markings are just Cyrillic text.

Primer looks real neat on there, can't wait to see more. I never have enough patience to wait for 24 hours between coats.

Stokesy44 wrote: Wed Oct 11, 2017 5:45 pm Fired up the booth and the airbrush today. The TD is now in full Ninja Mode

Full ninja mode, you say? Well how are the Krouts supposed to fight back, Comrade Stokesy?

All joking aside, I'm looking forward to some Russian Green!

Nice progress mate - that Ultimate black primer really makes the details pop.

Looking forward to see you green this up!

Tomcat64 wrote: Thu Oct 12, 2017 11:49 am Nice progress mate - that Ultimate black primer really makes the details pop.

Looking forward to see you green this up!

Thanks mate

Thought I'd try a shadow coat before I apply the base colour. I'm a big fan of Andy's Hobby Headquarters on YouTube and he uses a shadow coat on his AFVs with results that I like. The idea is to apply a white set of highlights under the base coat to generate contrasts when it goes down.

It was a Tamiya day today. Damn that stuff loves my airbrush. Zero tip dry throughout the session.

Shadow coat on









Then it was time for the base coat.



The wheels look greener than the hull but that's just the camera's auto adjustment settings









I reckon I'll apply a dark green filter before I seal it, that should darken things a little without losing the nice contrast effects already laid down.

Once the filter's done, I'll gloss for the decals and paint the tracks while I'm at it.

Got to say its the first time I've used my airbrush to do anything other than plain base colours for months - I didn't need to do anything like that on the 2 figures I've recently done. Spraying the shadow coat and then layering on the base to get it looking just so reminded me what great fun it is to use an airbrush and watch the colours and contrasts blend.

Looking good. I tried doing this on my B1 Bis German Army tank but it failed horribly. I'm blaming my cheapy airbrush, the paint came out in splotches and it was really visible when looking over the "highlighted" areas.

Very nice work on that shading mate - it doesn't always get picked up by the camera but it's showing nicely in those shots

BTW how are you thinning your Tamiya for spraying?

TheNordus wrote: Thu Oct 19, 2017 1:26 pm Looking good. I tried doing this on my B1 Bis German Army tank but it failed horribly. I'm blaming my cheapy airbrush, the paint came out in splotches and it was really visible when looking over the "highlighted" areas.

Tomcat64 wrote: Thu Oct 19, 2017 3:04 pm Very nice work on that shading mate - it doesn't always get picked up by the camera but it's showing nicely in those shots

BTW how are you thinning your Tamiya for spraying?

Thanks Guys.

The Tamiya paint went through the AB like a dream.

I thinned the white with Ultimate thinner by pouring thinner into the paint pot. There wasn't much white left so I figured it would be easier to mix it in the pot itself. I mixed the green in the AB's colour cup as it was almost a new tin and I'm larey about adding thinner to paint and leaving it in the pot. Ratio wise, I aim for a milk like look to the paint - about 40-50% thinner I guess. I cant be arsed to get all precise about it when I'm mixing. I kind of know what will spray and what will not.

Well I carried on this afternoon - striking while the iron's hot I just felt in the mood.

Sprayed a filter of NATO green on the hull and wheels. Its really made a difference, especially on the hull.

Wheels look ok, I also painted the rubber rims. The remaining tread detail looks pretty cool to me - very much a case of luck versus judgement.





And this time I photographed the hull on a light background to get a better photo - the hull looks the same colour as the wheels now!









I'll gloss it later today, that will make it 3 bench visits - three strikes for a Pitcher's dream or the dreaded third strike on a match? We'll wait and see

Cracking work - and thanks for sharing the thinning info too!

Great to see you back in the saddle (or at the bench) and moving this along!

Tomcat64 wrote: Thu Oct 19, 2017 3:35 pm Cracking work - and thanks for sharing the thinning info too!

Great to see you back in the saddle (or at the bench) and moving this along!

Cheers. Got the next project lined up too. My prize draw Magach arrived over the weekend and it looks a beauty. Saw a build video on Andy's Hobby HQ on YouTube and I cant wait to start it. I'll finish the SU-85 first though - because that way madness lies

Top stuff happening here mate

I'll be watching your next build very closely, I've got that Magach 3 in my stash.

Looking sharpish there. I had never thought of spraying a filter on for some reason, I always apply mine with a big flat brush. Should try that some time.
I'm super jealous of your Dragon acquisitions, feels like they're rare as the teeth of a hen around here. Not that I mind Tamiya or Zvezda alternatives my no one ever stocks photo-etched grilles for those!

Kevthemodeller wrote: Thu Oct 19, 2017 10:40 pm Top stuff happening here mate

I'll be watching your next build very closely, I've got that Magach 3 in my stash.

Cheers mate. As for the Magach, it looks awesome. Hey, we should have a build-off, see which one of us can screw it up first!

I hit the two sides of the casement with Aqua Gloss this morning, prepping for the decals. I didn't bother glossing the whole thing, waste of good Aqua Gloss if you ask me.





I then used AK matt varnish and sprayed the entire hull and wheels to seal everything in.





I think the shading looks good, how much will survive after the weathering remains to be seen. Next up is oils and dot filters. After that, chipping, more matt varnish then oils for stains etc. Need to do mud using wet pigments on the lower hull too

Lots of fun coming my way

Stokesy44 wrote: Fri Oct 20, 2017 5:38 pm

Kevthemodeller wrote: Thu Oct 19, 2017 10:40 pm Top stuff happening here mate

I'll be watching your next build very closely, I've got that Magach 3 in my stash.

Cheers mate. As for the Magach, it looks awesome. Hey, we should have a build-off, see which one of us can screw it up first!

Now that's an idea

Got started on the pigments this morning.

I wanted a nice layer on the lower hull behind the wheels.

I used 2 colours from my Vallejo sets.





I've never got the hang of laying down dry pigments and then bleeding in the binder. Instead I make a wet paste as a base and brush it on.



I then use a dry brush and dab on the 2 colours for texture.



And the other side




This is the texture that I'm really after so if I don't like the colour once its dry I can simply use paint to get what I want - hopefully.

On another topic, I really need a new filing solution for all my paints, washes and thinners etc.





Other side of the kitchen



I need something free standing as wall space isn't an option. Much to think about

Gosh those decals look vibrant red.
I usually wet the underside of the tank with the pigment binder and then shake the pigment on it from the bottle or from a brush. I find Vallejo's pigment binder really doesn't work for bleeding in the binder, it tends to remain in thick blobs and at worst can dry with white splotches. Usually when I try the "bleeding" technique I end up stippling the pigments and binder together on the model.

TheNordus wrote: Sun Oct 22, 2017 6:47 pm Gosh those decals look vibrant red.
I usually wet the underside of the tank with the pigment binder and then shake the pigment on it from the bottle or from a brush. I find Vallejo's pigment binder really doesn't work for bleeding in the binder, it tends to remain in thick blobs and at worst can dry with white splotches. Usually when I try the "bleeding" technique I end up stippling the pigments and binder together on the model.

They are a tad on the bright side I agree. Some heavy dot filter work will fix that. I'm going to put the wheels and tracks on first though.

Tracks are on. What a faff!

I've done single link tracks before but these just didn't fancy it. One side went on relatively ok, then it all went a bit pear-shaped. Out came the superglue and I battered them into submission. Final result is ok, lots of weathering to do now.









There's a little kink at the back of the left side track where it lifts up towards the drive wheel. I'll ease it out with the pliers once I'm sure the glue is properly cured and the track wont shift.

Excellent job so far. I'm sure once you get her all weathered up she'll look superb.

Cracking work mate - those red decals really do pop out don't they??

Looking forward to seeing how you finish this one off now

Oh - and I've got paints and pigments scattered all around as well!

Tomcat64 wrote: Mon Oct 23, 2017 9:41 am Cracking work mate - those red decals really do pop out don't they??

Looking forward to seeing how you finish this one off now

Oh - and I've got paints and pigments scattered all around as well!

Thanks mate, good to know I'm not the only one.

Dot filters today, artists oils and low odour turpenoid





Its a bit agricultural but I refined it as I went on, cleaning and adding subtlety where I spotted it was a bit messy.











Last bits were the fuel drums and some tidying up of the edges of the filter work. I plan on sealing with a matt varnish then doing a Ultimate wash so I'm not too fussed about how its sitting in the panel lines etc.



AK Interactive rust on the tracks.





Little bit of detail work on the rear end, grills and exhausts.

those oils really gave it life!

Really like how your DOT filtering came out. Really makes her looked like she seen a lot of weather.

d6mst0 wrote: Thu Oct 26, 2017 2:12 am Really like how your DOT filtering came out. Really makes her looked like she seen a lot of weather.

Thanks, that's what I'm aiming for. Just need to chip, gloss, dark wash and dry pigments then I'm done

Stokesy44 wrote: Thu Oct 26, 2017 10:09 am

d6mst0 wrote: Thu Oct 26, 2017 2:12 am Really like how your DOT filtering came out. Really makes her looked like she seen a lot of weather.

Thanks, that's what I'm aiming for. Just need to chip, gloss, dark wash and dry pigments then I'm done

I'm going to attempt dot filtering on my Leopard A2..................... finger corssed.

Kevthemodeller wrote: Thu Oct 26, 2017 11:51 am

Stokesy44 wrote: Thu Oct 26, 2017 10:09 am

d6mst0 wrote: Thu Oct 26, 2017 2:12 am Really like how your DOT filtering came out. Really makes her looked like she seen a lot of weather.

Thanks, that's what I'm aiming for. Just need to chip, gloss, dark wash and dry pigments then I'm done

I'm going to attempt dot filtering on my Leopard A2..................... finger corssed.

Low odour turpenoid is the key for me. Anything harsher (enamel thinners) and there's white streaks all over the place.

I reckon if I time it right I might get this little Ruskie finished today.

Did the chipping this morning. Added some nice impact scars on the casement which will have rust added later on.





Then after some consultation with the wise owls on FB, I glossed in prep for using a Ultimate dark dirt wash later today. I asked if a matt finish was ok for the wash and the answer was





Damn but she looks mighty pretty under that gloss. Must be very pleasant for the crew of the beast - having their entire vehicle stink of pear drops

AND of course, the sodding tracks broke again, at least it gave me a chance to even out that little kink I mentioned earlier but honestly!!!



So with good luck and a fair wind, the plan is a Ultimate wash later, then a matt varnish then oils for rust streaks and oil / fuel stains then dry pigments. Chances of achieving my goals today....



Yeah, that's more likely

The oil colours really did a good job. I should say you used the oils really well....love it. Sad the magic tracks weren't so magic. A little bit of rust and this will be so real....

Nice work mate - very very nice work

I do actually use clay washes over a matte finish on AFVs as part of the dirtying up process, but if you only want it in the panel lines then gloss is definitely the way to go.

I've not tried the oil dot filtering yet but I'm really tempted to give it a go after seeing what you've done with it on a couple of builds this year.

digger303 wrote: Thu Oct 26, 2017 12:45 pm The oil colours really did a good job. I should say you used the oils really well....love it. Sad the magic tracks weren't so magic. A little bit of rust and this will be so real....

Tomcat64 wrote: Thu Oct 26, 2017 6:54 pm Nice work mate - very very nice work

I do actually use clay washes over a matte finish on AFVs as part of the dirtying up process, but if you only want it in the panel lines then gloss is definitely the way to go.

I've not tried the oil dot filtering yet but I'm really tempted to give it a go after seeing what you've done with it on a couple of builds this year.

Thanks Guys.

Well I did it, Its finished!

Applied the Ultimate wash, wiped it down and matt coated.











Then I got the oils out again and worked in some rust, dirt and fuel / lubricant stains.









And to finish, I dusted with pigments. I may dial them back a tad on the front fenders - not sure yet.... But here she is, my Dusty Ruskie.













Till next time. Thanks for looking in and for all your comments

Cracking result mate - absolutely stonking!

You should update your entry into Dan's weekly thread to show this beauty off!