Global Scale Modeller

Hi, just signed up, looks like a cracking site!
I'm 55 years very old, and got back into model building after a very long break (seems to be a common thing), about 4 years ago.
I've already got 12 kits on the go, started off building a 1/48 diorama with a Lancaster, spitfire, hurricane, Mossy, and loads of figures and service vehicles, fuel tankers etc. Taken me 4 years and only finished one Albion fuel lorry!
Recently bought a 1/6 Kawasaki Z1300, very rare and expensive, daren't touch it though
Now I'm building a 1/12 Kawasaki H2R, Tamiya, superb kit, now learning how to airbrush the blueing on the chrome exhausts...any tips please
Then there's the Titanic, Tirpitz, oh and a 1/48 Catalina...and the huge Bentley 4.5 1930 Airfix kit....
I'm not working due to long term illness, and have found model making a fantastic way to relax, its my 'therapy' and keeps me sane
Thanks, Mike

to ISM Sir.

Hello and welcome
Good to see someone with a wide variety of interests, you will fit right in

Welcome.
keep posting , plenty of feedback available.

Welcome aboard Mike

Hiya and welcome to the Forum

And get well soon!

HI and a grand welcome to the group. I like your sporadic type interests as they are close to mine.

As for exhaust heat coloring; I have had success in both airbrush and believe it or not, dry brushing. I'm sure that with the skilled professionals on this forum, they will most likely have cleaner or better methods but here is mine.

The key with airbrushing the heat stains in the exhaust metal is to practice on sprue or spare parts before concentrating on the model. Also, are you painting directly on the chrome or stripping it with a reprint prior to heat tinting? Painting directly on chrome is tricky as it will run or spyder very easy as it is not a ports as paint so there is little to grip to.

I do not know that characteristics of all airbrush and compressor configurations, but this worked for me. I always use a pressure regulator and moisture trap. I normally use a new Tamiya transparent blue bottle- without thinning at a very low pressure (8 lbs); as older Tamiya clears with thicken greatly. If you have an old bottle, simply thin it down for air brush use (I am lazy and find the new bottle is perfect for the airbrush). Depending on your airbrush model you need to have a small tip or the adjustment for a paint spread between 1/8 and 1/4". Then the amount of paint being disbursed it critical. With mine being a double action, keeping it 1-2 inches away from the item while keeping full air pressure and very gently pulling back to allow only the smallest "tinting" volume to come from the brush. KEEP IT MOVING around the exhaust tube or it will quickly spyder or get to dark/concentrated. You can always make a couple trips around the exhaust until you get the desired effect.

That has worked for me, and remember to practice..practice... before applying it to the model;...GOOD LUCK and once again welcome to the forum!!