Global Scale Modeller

I wanted to portray a “different” Spitfire, during my research I came across a scheme flown by Wing Commander Rolf Arne Berg.



I’ll be using an Eduard “weekend” kit as the base for this kit


Along with the Montex mask set K48083* for the aircraft roundels and identification markings

*this set is for the Hasegawa Spitfire however I’ll adjust them if necessary
The spinner will have three-colour bands (aka the Norwegian flag) which will be from the Eduard Mk.IX “Royal Class” that Tony Oliver very kindly sent me.

I’m going to display the aircraft “in-flight” so I needed a pilot…

I’ll be using the PJ Productions resin “WWII RAF pilot seated” who immediately got christened “Rolf”
Since returning to the hobby I’ve only made one pilot, for a Tamiya F-16, so it’ll be interesting to see how he turns out.

For the “in-flight” stand I’ll be using an idea I found on the internet by Gary Wickham…
https://www.scalespot.com/reference/stands/stand.htm
Gary’s option describes mainly 1:72 aircraft however as the Spitfire is a small(ish) 1:48 kit I’m sure that his method will work.


First off I’ll be starting on the cockpit.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

Wing Commander Rolf Arne Berg.

W/Cdr Rolf Arne Berg was not only the CO of No. 132 Norwegian wing, but also one of the most highly regarded officers among his peers. His career was closely tied with No. 331 Squadron, with which he served from the very beginning in July 1941. His personal tally counted 6 (according to some sources 5.5) enemy aircraft destroyed.



As part of the 2nd Tactical Air Force, the No. 132 Norwegian wing participated in the Normandy Landings and moved to Caen, France in August 1944. From September onwards, the Norwegian squadrons participated in the liberation of Holland and took part in the crossing of the Rhine. Beside his commanding duties, Berg took very active part in operations; some said that he flew more sorties than anyone else in the entire 2nd TAF.



As Wing Commander, Berg was entitled to carry personal markings on his aircraft. Indeed, his own initials were used instead of the regular squadron codes, but Berg went beyond the regulations. Added Norwegian national markings on the wings and rudder and matching three-colour bands at the spinner together with standard RAF fuselage roundel and lower fuselage D-Day stripes made for a very colourful aircraft. Interestingly, it is almost certain that Berg never got any official approval for replacing the RAF roundels on the wings.



Berg’s PV181 was built by Vickers Armstrong at Castle Bromwich and was delivered to 33 Maintenance Unit on 5 September 1944. It was officially taken on strength by No. 66 Squadron on 5 October 1944. However, PV181 was never used operationally by that unit as was selected as Berg’s personal aircraft



On Saturday, 3rd February 1945, Berg’s operational tour was completed and he was about to leave the unit, his briefcases packed. He decided to fly one more mission that day. It turned out to be his last.  Hit by Flak while attacking a Luftwaffe airfield at Eelde, Berg’s Spitfire was reported to have lost a wing and then went straight down without any form of control. It crashed into a farm house without exploding. W/Cdr Berg was killed in his aircraft.

(extract from spitfiresite.com)

Interesting pilot and good build idea
Look forward to this one

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Sun Dec 02, 2018 5:10 pm Interesting pilot and good build idea
Look forward to this one

thanks Scott

hopefully this won't be too long a build (famous last words)

rgds
John(shortCummins)

As this will be a “closed cockpit” with a pilot so very little detail will be seen, consequently I’ll not be adding extra detail to the cockpit.

I made as many subassemblies as practical and then as usual I gave everything a coat of my favourite primer Ultimate/Stynylrez black.

I’ve removed part of the top of the cockpit to allow for the closed canopy

I’ve glued the cockpit door in place as the cockpit will be closed



both the port and starboard fuselage sides will have other controls, oxygen tanks etc. added after the ‘base’ colour






the instrument panel will be dry-brushed to bring out the detail


Next I’ll be painting the cockpit colour and some detail painting.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

Once the primer had fully cured, I left it overnight, I then gave everything a coat of Alkan BS:283 aircraft grey/green.







Next some of the controls were picked out with Alkan black and/or vallejo 71.065 steel and the oxygen tanks were painted Hobby Color H324 light grey and attached to the fuselage side.







The instrument panel was dry-brushed to bring out the dials.


The seat was painted with a mix 70%-30% Tamiya XF-64 red brown, XF-7 red.


Everything was given a coat or two of aqua gloss and then I used Tamiya panel line dark brown to simulate grime and shadows.








Next I’ll be painting Rolf Arne.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

The pilot is a JP productions RAF pilot, I’ve not used anything of theirs before and I must say that I’ve really impressed with what I’ve seen so far.

For ease of painting I left the figure on the pouring block and gave it a coat of Ultimate/Stynylrez black primer.



Tamiya XF-15 - face
Tamiya XF-55 - seatbelt harness
vallejo 71.065 steel - harness buckles
Alkan BS:450 - flying helmet & gloves
Alkan RLM:04 - life jacket
Alkan 5-N Navy blue - uniform
Alkan Black-Grey - shoes & oxygen mask


He was then given a coat or two of aqua gloss and then I used Tamiya panel line dark brown to simulate grime and shadows.


Once I had cleaned up the panel liner I dry-brushed Rolf Arne’s uniform with Alkan FS:35164


The torso and legs were then joined, I’ll attach the arms once he’s in his seat.



…and gave hime a coat of vallejo matt acrylic varnish.



Next I’ll be sitting Rolf Arne in his seat and joining the fuselage and adding the wings.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

Rolfe looks good
A smidge Wingless himself but you will rectify that soon
Keep at it, I am following along

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Fri Dec 14, 2018 3:18 pm Rolfe looks good
A smidge Wingless himself but you will rectify that soon
Keep at it, I am following along

he's 'armless

shortCummins wrote: Fri Dec 14, 2018 3:30 pm

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Fri Dec 14, 2018 3:18 pm Rolfe looks good
A smidge Wingless himself but you will rectify that soon
Keep at it, I am following along

he's 'armless

damn good pilot then

The pilot in his seat, arms will be attached later.





Port and starboard fuselage joined.



Wings assembled and fitted to the fuselage.


the only part of the kit that needs serious(?) filling.


Engine cowling and exhausts fitted.

another slight gap that’ll need some attention

I’ve painted the exhaust with vallejo metal color 77.723 exhaust manifold, I wanted to try this colour, I’m fully expecting to have to paint them again as they’ll get over-sprayed with either primer or camo but I do quite like the colour.

Wing tips and ailerons.


I’ve left off the rudder as I’m going to paint it with the Norwegian flag and I think it’ll be easier to mask ‘off the aircraft’

There are still a couple of things to add to the cockpit, gun sight and harness, before I can add the canopy, once I’ve done that I’ll be adding the fixing for the ‘in-flight’ stand.


until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

Now that the fuselage has been nailed together its time to add the “stand” fixture*.
*if you want to read a decent “how to” follow this link for Gary Wickham’s feature…
https://www.scalespot.com/reference/stands/stand.htm

The evergreen square tube was just a bit too small to allow the brass square to fit so I cut two sections…

…and glued them back together using the brass as a template.


I marked the position for the “hole” that will receive the stand.

Then the scary bit drilling holes in a perfectly good model.

I then used a knife to make a square(ish) hole.

which I tidied up to allow the evergreen square to fit.

The evergreen square was then glued in place, I’m hoping that the aircraft will be slightly pointing up and to the right.


The square was cut flush and sanded to shape.


The gaps were filled with squadron green putty.



Next I’ll be preparing for paint.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

Nice work on a lovely kit. Eduard certainly is the gold standard for 1/48 Spits. Beautiful surface detail, maybe the new Tamiya Mk1 is up there too but for later marks these beauties are the best.

Stokesy44 wrote: Sun Dec 16, 2018 10:27 am Nice work on a lovely kit. Eduard certainly is the gold standard for 1/48 Spits. Beautiful surface detail, maybe the new Tamiya Mk1 is up there too but for later marks these beauties are the best.

I agree, I've only seen reviews on the new Mk1, which does look good but I'll wait until I see one "in the flesh" before I make my mind up, the only issue I have about the new Tamiya is the price, this 'weekend' kit from Eduard is half the cost of the Tamiya.

Still we're well served for 1:48 Spits, long may it continue

rgds
John(shortCummins)

Before I can add the canopy I have to add the gunsight and harness. The harness was made from the foil off of a wine bottle cut to shape and painted.



I broke out a new blade* to make a mask for the canopy from Tamiya tape.

*I’ve found using a new blade essential as I want to cut the tape to shape, using a dull blade tends to rip the tape rather than cut it.

This is the first time that I‘ve used the ‘closed canopy’ and I’m a little disappointed with the fit, there are small gaps to the rear which I’ve used ‘spru-goo’ to fill.


This is the 3rd or 4th time that I’ve built this kit and for some reason this one has the most ‘fit issues’ that I’ve come across, I don’t understand why? I all honesty the gaps are small and can be easily fixed I just expected better and I’m sure that I’ve done something wrong as pervious versions haven’t had the same problems?

There are a couple of areas that always need a little attention on Eduard Spitfires, firstly the top cowling always needs some work and the lower engine cover will always need a little attention.
For these and the fuselage seams I’ve used ‘spru-goo’ to fill these, very small, gaps.





I’ll leave the ‘spru-goo’ overnight to fully cure and then I’ll sand it and re-scribe where necessary before giving it a coat of Ultimate/Stynylrez black primer.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

Good progress
I like the mounting stand preparation done early
Canopies are my downfall it seems

Once the ‘spru-goo’ had fully cured I sanded it flush and then sprayed some Alkan BS:283 grey/green over the canopy…


…and then Ultimate/Stynylrez black primer and checked the seams that were filled with the ‘spru-goo’.



The radiators were sprayed vallejo metal color 77.701 aluminium and attached to the underside of the wings and then protected with Tamiya tape.


The rest of the airframe was sprayed with Ultimate/Stynylrez black primer, if you’ve not tried this primer I can highly recommend it, these photos give an idea of how the “stand” will work.


…the “stand” in situ.

…and removed.


I needed to re-scribe a few panel lines that were removed by the ‘spru-goo' and subsequent sanding.





Next I’ll be making a start on the camo’.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

Before starting on the camo’ I wanted to add the ‘sky’ fuselage band with Alkan BS:210 Sky-Type “S”…


…and some aluminium colour that will be shown via chipping using vallejo metal color 77.701 aluminium.


The fuselage band was masked with both Tamiya flexible tape and ‘normal’ masking tape.


To portray the distinctive “V shaped’ wear pattern on the wing-root I used Humbrol Maskol.



I’m a big fan of ‘black basing’ so I start with the underside marble layer with a 50-50 mix of Tamiya XF-83 medium sea grey 2 (RAF) & Mr Color levelling thinner.


The marble layer is then over-sprayed with a 20-80 mix of XF-83, the thinned paint is sprayed sparingly to allow the marble coat to show through giving a mottled effect. (thats the theory anyway)


I decided to fit the radiator covers and wheels…

In order to get the wheels to lie flush I couldn’t fit the landing gear struts. The wheels were glued into place and I cut off the axel(s) leaving a small stub in order to level the ending gear covers.

For the top camo I first made a marble layer with 50-50 mix of Tamiya XF-82 ocean grey 2 (RAF).


Next a thinned 20-80 mix of XF-82 Mr Color levelling thinner.


I used white-tac sausages to create a mask for the grey camo and then Tamiya XF-81 dark green 2 (RAF) was used for the Green camo, once again the marble layer was a 50-50 mix with Mr Color levelling thinner.



The white tac mask removed…




Next I’ll be painting the aircraft markings.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

Great work mate, the basting looks great brill

Kevthemodeller wrote: Sun Dec 23, 2018 8:30 pm Great work mate, the basting looks great brill

thanks Kev, I really like the almost mottled effect you get with black basing

rgds
John(shortCummins)

Making a start on the fuselage roundels and wing leading edge marking I masked using the Montex roundel and Tamiya tape for the wings and then sprayed a base of Alkan white.


For the outer yellow roundel ring and wing leading edge I mixed Tamiya XF-3 yellow (99%) and a spot of Tamiya XF-7 red.

the wing leading edge is probably a bit too wide, but it is what it is, I’m not going to try to make it narrower, by the time the Norwegian flags are on the wings a lot of it will be covered anyway.

The centre red of the roundel was a mixture of Tamiya XF-7 red (75%) and XF-64 NATO brown (25%)


Finally for the roundels was the blue ring, Tamiya XF-8 blue (95%) and XF-1 black (5%).


the completed roundels


Rolf Arne Berg had the wing roundels removed, overpainted?, so to simulate this I’ve sprayed the roundel shape with highly diluted Tamiya XF-1 black (5%) Mr Color levelling thinner (95%)



For the aircraft serial number Tamiya XF-1 was used.


As Wing Commander, Berg was entitled to carry personal markings on his aircraft, his own initials were used instead of the regular squadron codes, the Montex mask(s) were sprayed with Alkan BS:210 Sky - type “S”.

Minor issue with my placement of the roundels, bugger! so I have to respray the camo and then try again…





Next I’ll be adding the fuselage invasion stripes and Norwegian national flag markings on the wings and rudder.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

The Norwegian flag markings and invasion strips were started by a ‘base’ coat of Alkan white…


Montex masks were applied and the blue centre bar was applied using the same mix as the roundels, Tamiya XF-8 blue (95%) - XF-1 black (5%).


The outer red stripes were then painted, Tamiya XF-7 red (75%) - XF-68 NATO brown (25%).


some of the white has seeped under the masking tape, I’ll sort that out when I start to weather her.

The completed rudder.


I’ve decided to follow Bjørnar Norås' drawings rather than the Eduard or Montex versions that show no invasion stripes on the underside of the wings and 3 white stripes rather than only 2 on the fuselage.
I sprayed a block of white as a base for the invasion stripes.


Fuselage invasion stripes were then masked and Alkan new rubber black-grey applied.




Next I’ll be tackling the weathering.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

To start on the weathering process I masked the fabric ailerons and rudder with thin strips of Tamiya masking tape and then sprayed a highly diluted mix (95%) Mr Color levelling thinner and Tamiya XF-1 black (5%)




masking removed…




Exhausts were painted with vallejo acrylic metal color 77.723 exhaust manifold


The whole airframe was given a coat or two of Alclad aqua gloss.

I then channeled my ‘inner PLASMO’ and sloshed Tamiya panel liner dark brown over everything.



After leaving it for half an hour or so I rubbed her down with a very slightly moistened, with odourless thinner, paper towel.




Next I’ll be adding some chipping and other signs of wear and tear.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

Coming along very nicely indeed

Thanks Scott

I really like the Eduard Spits

rgds
John(shortCummins)

The weekend kit doesn’t have any stencil decals so I painted the “no walk” markings…



Chipping was added with a small brush and vallejo model air 71.065 steel


I think it looks a bit too stark at the moment so I’ll probably tone down the chipping later in the process.

Everything was given a couple of coats vallejo matt acrylic varnish in preparation for using oils to add other effects.

Dots of brown, dark brown and white oil paints were added in various places.


these were then ‘brushed out’ with a soft paint brush moistened with odourless turpentine


I’ll let these dry, an hour or so, before deciding if I need to add any more, the ‘full effect’ won’t show until the turpentine evaporates.

I also used some AK engine oil to add some other stains.




Next I’ll be building the propellor.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

The propellor and spinner were first given a coat of Ultimate/Stynylrez black primer…



The spinner was painted with Alkan BS:210 Sky type “S”


Propellor tips were painted Alkan yellow


To add a little wear the spinner the front part was masked and a soft pencil was used to create streaks…

…and then a highly thinned (95%) Tamiya XF-1 black (5%) added


Tony Oliver’s donated spinner decal was then added


vallejo model air 71.065 steel was applied with a sponge to create some chipping along the propellor blades


Finally all of the components were nailed together and fitted onto the aircraft


Once I’d fitted the propellor I added some exhaust stains by first spaying a diluted mix of XF-68 and then Tamiya XF-57 buff in the centre



Next I’ll be building the base/stand.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

To make the ‘stand’ I used some styrene sheet and a small photo frame with the glass removed,
firstly I cut the styrene sheet to size.

Next I marked and cut the square hole for the brass square.

Evergreen square tubes were then cut to size and used to strengthen the corners for the plasticard top and sides and the ‘plinth’ was glued together.




I used spru-goo to fill the resultant gaps, due to my misalignment of the plasticard, a simple job that I should have paid more attention to and I wouldn’t have needed to do this step!


As with the aircraft the evergreen square was cut to fit the brass square and glued in place.


Araldite was used to fix the plasticard structure to the photo frame.


And everything was given a coat of Ultimate/Stynylrez black primer


I’ve decided to add a Norwegian flag to the base…
I cut an off-cut of styrene to size and then masked for the red, white and blue
[[
the blue cross was first.
[

followed by the red.



The flag was then added to the plinth.





Next I’ll be adding the few bits and pieces that are still missing, rear wheel, pitot tube and mirror to the aircraft, removing the canopy mask and then she’ll be ready for the ‘reveal’ photo session.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)

Fantastic work John, I can't wait to see the reveal!

HO-LY COW!!!



Absolutely taken to school on the weathering and detail stripes
Blown away by all that

Do you find you need to do a final flat coat after the gloss and weathering or does all the weathering take away the shine??
Very impressed

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Fri Jan 11, 2019 4:36 pm HO-LY COW!!!



Absolutely taken to school on the weathering and detail stripes
Blown away by all that

Do you find you need to do a final flat coat after the gloss and weathering or does all the weathering take away the shine??
Very impressed

thanks for your nice comments

I did give her a thinned flat coat to 'unify' the oil paint, there were streaks of 'untouched' paintwork that were slightly more shiny and the flat coat equals everything

rgds
John(shortCummins)

ElCapitan wrote: Fri Jan 11, 2019 3:33 pm Fantastic work John, I can't wait to see the reveal!

cheers Rob

I'm hoping to get a couple of hours bench time this weekend when I should get her finished although I think my wife has a number or "little jobs" lined up for me

rgds
John(shortCummins)

great work

mick wrote: Fri Jan 11, 2019 6:46 pmgreat work

thanks Mick it could have been better but it was better than my last model and hopefully my next will be better than this?
thats what makes this hobby interesting

best rgds
John(shortCummins)

So I managed to get an hour or so bench time and after loosing the rear view mirror to the carpet monster, I managed to find the ariel after it pinged off but the mirror has gone forever?

Here’s a sneak-peak


The reveal photos can be found here…
viewtopic.php?f=45&t=26279


Thanks to all who’ed popped by with their helpful comments and those who’ve just had a look, I hope you’ve enjoyed my stumbling through this build.

until next time
as always, any suggestions, recommendations or comments will be gratefully received.
rgds
John(shortCummins)