1/24 Tamiya Porsche 911 GT3

[Pete75]

Time for my third build.



I've decided to make this thread quite explicit (not sexually). Being a relative newcomer to modelling and having been away from it for most of this year, I've found I've had to look up previously used techniques that, apparently, haven't fully sunk in; these pages will preserve such knowledge for quick reference after any future abscences. It may also be of interest/use to other newbies.

I'll try to remember to credit to my sources as we go; two key ones are Paul@ISM and The Scalemodeler, whose YouTube channels can be found by clicking on them. Any comments/questions welcome

First up some bodywork. I've previously left the body until later in builds as I wanted to keep the "main course" as something to look forward to. However, I reckon the longer the clear coat can be left prior to flatting the better.



Panels roughly removed from sprue then neatened up, remembering not to cut tightly to the parts but leaving a little excess plastic. This can then be removed safely and accurately with foam sanding sticks: 240 grit to take away excess, and 400 to tidy. The parts are are stuck in place using a few dabs of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement before being "welded" secure by using the brush on the hidden side of the joint and letting "capillary action" draw the glue in (thanks Paul).



First dilemma encountered. The sheet suggests painting the rear spoiler before attaching it to the body. This makes sense insofar as there are two tricky bits of X-18 paint required and access would be easier without the rest of the body as an encumbrance. However painted parts and glue are best kept separate (the potential for disaster doesn't bear thinking about) so I'm going to just bond the sections now; I'll just have to worry about the black details later.



I've heard much about mould lines but not really encountered them until now. Scalemodeler's technique is to use a permanent marker (so you can see them easily and don't forget them) which you then remove, together with the raised plastic, with sanding sticks (400 grit/240 for stubborn bits). This model has four nodes on the rear bumper that I was initially thought were parking sensors, although they aren't shown on my reference photos; the sheet says "finish with sandpaper", and this, I surmise, is Japanese for "make them disappear". There are two more lines down the front wings and another (not marked in photo) along the bottom edge of the rear number plate.



The body is then given a thorough key (scuffed up) all over with 600 grit sandpaper, and wiped down with a damp paper towel. One Porsche body ready for the paint shop.

The standard chromed wheels included with the kit are ok-ish. They would look better painted up (not suggested on sheet) but I was taken with the urge to go custom...



I checked that (1/24) 18 inch rims were correct for the GT3 and found these. I'm not really familiar with the custom "scene" but I get the impression - after buying them - that they are a bit Tokyo street racer. Nevertheless, I think they look cool. More of an issue was the discovery that the GT3's front wheels (and therefore the tyres) are about 25% narrower than the rear...



My instinct was to mask the excess off, then cut with a razor saw before tidying with my new Tamiya file set (invaluable); Twokidsnosleep kindly confirmed this as the correct approach:



The tools did the job really easily and in no time I had a set of modified alloys. Another consideration was how to make them compatible with my model. Having not used after-market wheels before I was interested to see how they would fit.



The answer is that don't have the required "male" Tamiya parts installed (like the stock wheels - left of photo), but they are supplied separately for you to fit yourself. I wasn't sure how to safely remove the raised tab on the back of the new wheels, but through trial and error I found it easiest to pop them out from the front using a needle. I then scraped away what was left and tidied up with a rounded file. The final part of the prep was to remove the moulding excess on both the rims and spokes, of which there was a lot. This would be, at best, a time consuming process involving scalpels, files & sandpaper; in my case, however, it turned into a minor drama...



NOTE: spoked resin wheels are extremely brittle! After regaining my composure I thought I had fixed the spoke straight back into place with the Tamiya cement; and I had... just until I started tiding again with sandpaper & files.

More strength required, I switched to the Loctite Super Glue, which went well until the piece that had broken away itself snapped in two. After a couple of failed attempts to glue both pieces back the glue had melted one of them into a warped mess so I settled for just getting the other in place. How to bridge the remaining gap? I formed a plan using supplies to hand (cue A Team music): 1) create a structural bond between the two sides using rapid setting Araldite epoxy, fashioning the best shape possible with a blade before it hardens; 2) fill any remaining bits with Vallejo Plastic Putty; 3) let it dry over night then tidy with a scalpel & sandpaper.





The model gods smiled on me and it pretty much worked. Not perfect, but I'm chalking it up as a save. I reckon by the time it's got some paint on it nobody's gonna spot it.

[Kevthemodeller]

Great save on the wheel

[Gary30]

I was going to follow along until you said this: "I've decided to make this thread quite explicit (not sexually) ....." sorry but I'm out

Seriously though, nice save, I feel your pain on how annoying that must have been! Paint and a nice wet gloss coat and that will dissappear completely. Are you sticking with the yellow for the body paint, or going off piste?

[Pete75]

Thanks guys, appreciate it. Nice one, Gary - sorry to disappoint! The colour will be revealed very shortly; a clue is that I’m staying on piste but not going yellow...

[Twokidsnosleep]

Oh HOLY FORK!!!!

Great save on the broken bit and good to have the guts to modify at will
Takes some cajoles to cut into expensive resin parts to make them what you want them to be
Cudos indeed

[Hawkmoon]

All looking good and nice work

[Pete75]

All looking good and nice work

Oh HOLY FORK!!!!

Great save on the broken bit and good to have the guts to modify at will
Takes some cajoles to cut into expensive resin parts to make them what you want them to be
Cudos indeed

Cheers guys. Scott - my thoughts exactly...

[Twokidsnosleep]

All looking good and nice work

Oh HOLY FORK!!!!

Great save on the broken bit and good to have the guts to modify at will
Takes some cajoles to cut into expensive resin parts to make them what you want them to be
Cudos indeed

Cheers guys. Scott - my thoughts exactly...

[Pete75]

Time for paint. No fancy airbrushes and spray booths here: we’re talking old school rattle cans. NOTE: Scalemodler’s YouTube guide to using spray cans is gospel - link here

Painting in an old shed in winter, the two enemies are dust & the cold. Cold air means poorer adhesion & slower drying. It’s difficult to nail down exact figures, but a conservative estimate is that 10C/50F is the minimum sensible temp to be spraying in - higher is better. It’s around 8C/46F in the workshop at the moment so I’ll get a fan heater on well in advance & close the doors. Additionally, I’ll leave the cans in warm water for 15 mins before using and also have a hair dryer handy. In terms of dust, all I do is brush the immediate vicinity in advance and maybe have something to cover the painted object for first few minutes of drying (whilst crossing my fingers). NOTE: Tamiya acrylic sprays can be pretty forgiving in that, if you let them dry fully, surface dust/hair might come away with little damage.



The mechanical parts are going to be primed in Games Workshop Chaos black primer, which I'll be using for the first time. For the wheels I’m going with Tamiya white primer because it will contrast with the colours of both the bare plastic and the top coat, thus showing what has and hasn’t been covered at each stage.



Any primer will also show up incomplete prep work & I found I needed to do extra work to tidy the mould joins on the spokes/forks. I'm quite methodical in getting the coverage even, spraying lightly at an angle from opposite sides (2 or 3 sprays per direction) before rotating the wheels 90 degrees and repeating. I work quite slowly, allowing about 30 seconds between directions to mitigate against the possibilty of running. Three coats per side were needed in total.



Tamiya grey primer went on the body nicely and looked good after two coats. NOTE: The rule of thumb for all spraying is 10 mins between coats, or until the surface has an eggshell texture. Inspection under a bright light revealed a couple of flecks of dust that needed lightly sanding with 800 grit & a dab of water. After wiping & drying I gave it a couple of touch up sprays & left to dry for an hour before the colour.



I settled on Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium for the top coat. A seedling propagator lid is doubling as a dust shield!





Mega pleased with the result. By far my cleanest finish yet and, I suspect, as free from imperfections as I’ll ever get . Really happy with the colour too: it makes me think Aston Martin DB5/Porsche 959. It could be clear coated after an hour but I’ll wait for another spray session.





For the wheels I went with three coats of TS-38 Gunmetal. I had originally intended to do the body in this colour (with silver wheels) but I had a last-minute change of heart after becoming concerned that it had too much flake in it. They are more sparkly than I would’ve chosen in a perfect world (rattle can choices are somewhat limited) but, after a test fitting, I’m happy enough with them. (Unlike a guy I just saw on YouTube who completely stripped down his finished Lamborghini model, blaming the the paint manufacturer for turning it into a "Christmas decoration!" )

[Gary30]

Nice!!! Great colour choice, wheels contrast the bodywork really well, this is going to be a stunner, good work!

[Hawkmoon]

Silver looks the biz and the wheels are a good contrast, will you be putting on a gloss coat as this will make both pop

[barryf1fan]

This is coming together great, man!! Love the silver you chose for the body color as well (doing the RSX up in the same color).
Fantastic job on the wheels too - I would've been super nervous 'bout cutting them to width, but you look like you got'er done.

On the rear wing, if I may make a suggestion, and I'm still relatively "Newb Status" at all this. . . I would use a bit of leftover black decal or some of the Scale Motorsport CF decal for those little lip bits. Might work. Anyhoo, just throwin' it out there.

Keep up the good work man (and thank you for not painting it Big Bird yellow )

Have a good'un!

[Pete75]

Thanks for your comments guys. barryf1fan - we are of the same mind on the yellow Also, a great suggestion with the decals - that's exactly what I'll go for!

[jmurphy18]

this looks awesome Pete. Excellent on the color and the wheels. Very lovely build

[Pete75]

this looks awesome Pete. Excellent on the color and the wheels. Very lovely build

Thanks, John

Work continues apace. Just want to repeat that the “how to” element of this particular build is largely for my own (future) benefit, rather than wishing to teach senior relatives how to suck eggs!

The wheels are finished I stuck to a pre-planned process which, although convoluted, worked out well:

1) The centre caps were primed in black then brush highlighted with some TS-38 on the lock rings; black paint then Vallejo gloss varnish were dropped into the middle recesses.



2) Both the caps and the wheels were sprayed with TS-79 Semi-Gloss Clear. I chose this as I didn’t want to enhance the glinting & because they’re going be polished with wax anyway.

3) The male adaptors were cut away carefully & sanded to get them square and even.



4) I scraped the interior hubs down to the bare plastic for a better surface & more space to fix the adaptors.

5) The centre caps were cut from their tree, leaving small tabs on the back of each to locate them in the hub holes; holding them in position with a finger, I dropped in some Tamiya cement from the back to secure them.



6) Finally, the adaptors were fixed in place with super glue.



The effect of the satin clear is quite subtle and the difference doesn’t really come across in pictures, but they do have more depth/look more “finished” in the flesh.



Next for the chassis. After spraying in TS-17, I masked up the underside ready for some black bits; they’re marked X-18 on the intructions & I’ll be brushing them with Revell Aqua Satin Black (thinned with Tamiya Paint Retarder).





The sheet calls for XF-16 Flat Aluminium across the tail section and for the engine, but this would be indistinguishable from the base colour, so I mixed in XF-56 Metallic Grey (1:1) to get some contrast. Lowlights/weathering were then added to the engine by dry brushing some black over the top, then some highlights (XF-16) to pick up some of the raised edges. Finally, I added some Vallejo black Model Wash to accent recesses/lines the across the whole chassis underside using a 5/0 brush to paint along lines etc. then, as it dried, removed surplus wash with a clean brush & water before wiping with a dry cotton bud/paper towel.



Started painting up the mechanicals. The brake callipers were masked off and sprayed TS-8 Italian Red: everyone else seems to spray callipers rather than brush them so I thought I’d give it a go; I still have misgivings, however, as I think I could hand paint them in the time it takes to do the fiddly masking which, ultimately, proved inadequate and required brush repairs anyway )



I was quite generous with the black wash on the brake discs and repeated the process to get the drill holes dark enough.



The weather's a couple of degrees warmer now so I'm hoping to get the final spray session done in the workshop this afternoon. Thanks for looking

[markske]

great work so far
looking forward to see more

Mark

[Hawkmoon]

All looking good and nice work

[kiwigav]

Nice work on a great kit....must get another one

[Pete75]

great work so far
looking forward to see more

Mark

All looking good and nice work

Nice work on a great kit....must get another one

Thanks guys - great to get encouragement kiwigav - I was just looking at your GT3 build; obviously an awesome standard, despite Photobucket's best efforts to obscure it. (I have a name for them that rhymes ) Any chance you remember how you went about the black detailing on the rear wing? The sheet illustration is in my first post, if it helps.

[Pete75]

Progress has been good, but not without incident. Having seemingly been provoked by my earlier celebrations, the rattle can gods have struck back…



The first mishap was entirely my fault when, trying to preserve the battery life of my head torch, I managed to catch the body shell on the shed door in the dark Having already heated up the workshop, I elected to pretend the small mark didn't exist and proceeded with the clear coat. However, halfway through the first mist coat a dreaded hair appeared right next to the first blemish Work was abandoned for the day



Upon resumption, I wet sanded the area with 800 grit, getting rid of the hair and smoothing out the ding. I also smoothed out any parts that were a bit uneven from the partial clear coat, then set about arbitrarily touching up the silver. It was looking good, too, but as I was holding it at angle to inspect it, the holder section detached from the turntable and fell on the work bench along with the shell There were a couple of deep dents in the wing, and the damage was soon compounded by me not waiting long enough start re-sanding, Ultimately, the only option was to mask and re-prime the damaged section:



After letting it dry overnight and then sanding it back, I found I needed to fill some bits again (e.g. the gap along the skirt). This time I just applied some primer with a brush and then waited for a couple of hours before re-sanding:



Unsuccessfully, I tried to cover a couple of areas of bare plastic that remained (yellow bits), then decided to just go ahead and get some colour on:



Looking ok, but the TS-17 ran out midway! I reckon it's worth getting this right - also the paint will be of use in the near future - so I've ordered another can and will wait to finish off. It’s more delay to the clear coat, but if it's fixed properly, all will soon be forgotten



By comparison, the mechanical bits have proved mercifully uneventful. I've been dry fitting parts wherever possible; having been a bit casual about doing this about in the past, I have come to know better!



Instruction sheets often don’t show the best assembly order, and by practising I found the rear suspension was easier to install without the brake discs already fitted. Moreover, it's safe to say that tabs/nodes are apt not to fit their female counterparts once painted and - having tried both ways - it's much easier to test and shape them without glue being involved!



Dry fitting also reveals joints that need only be glued from the exterior, or reverse side, after the parts are connected, as illustrated by the shock absorber struts in the "action" pic below



When it came to fitting the wheels, the unpainted male adaptors were loose when inserted into the poly caps, so I made shims from Tamiya masking tape which did the job perfectly:





Although only two pieces, the exhaust system felt like a game of Twister to get in place, and it most definitely required dry fitting! I raised an eyebrow when the sheet suggested a 1:1 mix of X-11 Silver and X-26 Clear Orange for the colour, but I mixed some up (using Revell Aqua Silver) and it perfectly matched the reference photo I found online (I'm also using black wash on pretty much every underside part now - it's addictive!) Then it was one last check that everything was right before the skid plates went on:





She’s alive! Next up, the interior

[digger303]

A good repair. One would not know it even happened.

[barryf1fan]

Lovin' this build!! And it's a Porsche. double

[Pete75]

A good repair. One would not know it even happened.

Lovin' this build!! And it's a Porsche. double

Thanks for your kind comments, guys All being well, this should be the penultimate update.

The paintwork on the body is fixed and the clear coat has finally gone on; it’s not as smooth as I’d like & I’m hoping it can all be flatted out, but that won’t be for 5+ days. Meantime, there’s plenty still to do, starting with the interior.

When it came to interior colours, GT3 mk1 customers were presented with a pretty limited menu: leather came as standard, or the race spec included fire retardant upholstery, but there was one common factor…





The most exciting option/upgrade I could find was to have the odd bit of coloured plastic, so, although the brush detailing will take a bit of time, I’m going for this:



I’m not bothering with racing belts as the kit doesn’t include the roll cage to attach them to & they would be a nuisance driving down to the 1:24 shops!



The Chaos black primer gets a thumbs up from me. It gives a nice matt finish that’s not dissimilar to a car dashboard, and this is exactly what I’m going to use it for, as well as for the door cards.

As a road-going racer, the GT3’s weight was reduced by the absence of rear seats. Instead, the rear of the cabin is merely carpet, which is supplied with the kit. It’s an interesting feature, and is fitted in 4 pieces that have to be cut out using templates.



The self-adhesive backing sticks it down better than I had imagined, although I should’ve used my sharpest scissors to cut it to get cleaner edges. I was also relieved at how well the tiny GT3 metal transfer stuck.



The seats were sprayed TS-29 for a polished leather look, and I found the silver brushwork pretty painless using Revell Aqua 90. For the carpet in the front of the cabin, I tried to break up things slightly using Aqua 108 (matt black) mixed with 109 (matt anthracite). (I’ve decided I prefer to brush with Revell Aqua thinned with Tamiya retarder wherever possible now).



This kit doesn’t have many decals, but those that it does have are small and tricky. The 5 separate dashboard dials were a battle to get sitting correctly, and I failed altogether with the badge on the steering wheel. The issue for all of the above is that, while the graphics are exactly the same size as the moulded recesses in the plastic, the total decal size (including the transparent border) is a fair bit bigger: this means that locating them correctly, and then keeping them in position is already a challenge without then having to get the sides to conform. For the other little details – that you guys will probably only ever see - I picked out bits with a brush using black satin/gloss and Vallejo varnish.

NOTE: for any novices, like I was a year ago, don’t be tempted to use anything other than Micro Set/Sol to lay down decals. (I tried using the Vallejo equivalent first time out and it ruined my Subaru bodywork; a good brand, but a terrible product that should be banned!) Essentially, it goes like this: first, Micro Set (blue bottle) is applied to both the base surface and the decal, making it easier to position/re-position whilst also softening it; second, Micro Sol (red bottle) then “melts” the decal down on to the surface, which is great as long as it’s definitely in the right place, but bad if you try to change the position after about 30 seconds as the decal will tear. (An affliction particularly known to strike Porsche steering wheel badges! )





Mildly irritated that I the mislaid the throttle pedal (it’ll make trips anywhere in 1:24 world difficult) but, overall, I’m pleased with what I reckon is my best interior effort yet. The finishing line is in sight, but there are still plenty of banana skins to be avoided between now and then! Thanks for looking in

[Kevthemodeller]

Some lovely work going on here

[Hawkmoon]

All looking good and nice work

[Twokidsnosleep]

Great looking interior

[Pete75]

Some lovely work going on here

All looking good and nice work

Great looking interior

Thanks guys

This is not the final update as had been planned. Alas, all is not well with the bodywork

Although it seemed things were back on track, there was ultimately no getting away from the fact that painting over a partially complete clear coat is not ideal. I’d noticed the surface texture seemed slightly rough before redoing the clear coat, and my doubts lingered after applying it, too, but I hoped it would be sorted during the flatting process. However, on the first pass with the 1500 mesh it became clear the orange peel was worse than I thought & I ended up burning through into the paint

I briefly considered more patching-up, but there was only really one option: a full strip & re-spray...



The first method I decided to try was the oven cleaner approach (above). I put the shell & lots of Mr Muscle in a freezer/zip bag to stew to see what would happen. After 24 hrs, the body panels that were sanded beforehand had lost some of the top coat, but the rest - still fully covered in TS-13 - was barely affected.



Next, I got some Dot 4 brake fluid and - wearing disposable gloves - poured a few glugs over the body. 24 hrs later it had done more than the Mr Muscle - or perhaps just continued the work - but not as much as I'd hoped, so I filled a plastic pot and properly submerged it. After a couple of hours things were looking more promising (above), so maybe it'll work yet. (Any ideas welcome!)



Meanwhile I've pressed on & finished everything else in readiness for the completed body. I find glasswork tricky & seem to spend a lot of time with thinner/cotton buds tidying up mistakes; this time went better than my previous attempt, but I've got a lot to learn & things weren't helped by the absence of window masks (I'm guessing they wre accidentally thrown out) which meant more masking tape practise! A gripe I have with clear parts is that, no matter how careful I am removing them from the sprue, something always seem to get damaged: in this instance a front lens must've had a tiny crack in it so that when I lined the edges with black marker (Edding 400 - thanks Paul Bretland) some ink bled into it

Anyway, I don't know how long it will be, but a concluding update will appear here come what may!! Thanks for looking

[Gary30]

These things are sent to try us Pete! You'll come out the other side smelling of brake fluid roses with a great model to show off and a pocket full of experience to hit your next project with.

Your clear work looks good to me, always a bugbear of mine as well, you have to be SO careful, it is completely unforgiving.

Looking forward to seeing the paint job mark 2.

[Pete75]

These things are sent to try us Pete! You'll come out the other side smelling of brake fluid roses with a great model to show off and a pocket full of experience to hit your next project with.

Your clear work looks good to me, always a bugbear of mine as well, you have to be SO careful, it is completely unforgiving.

Looking forward to seeing the paint job mark 2.

Thanks Gary - I appreciate the moral support! And yes the smell of brake fluid does seem to permeate! The good news is that the shell is now starting to respect my authority - along with the wheels from my next project

[barryf1fan]

Man!! Sucks about the paint job, Pete!

Good to see you not chuck it in the trash or take a package of Black Cats to it (not that I've ever done either of those things...) , and look forward to the new look when she gets back from the paint and body shop.

[Pete75]

The final update What started off as a speedy build hit an almighty bump in the road, but I’ve limped home and grown in experience!

The body stripping took the better part of a week with a couple of sessions of toothbrushing per day. (It could’ve been done quicker if I was prepared to rinse it off & sand it throughout the process, but I wasn’t.) With the shell bare again I thought I’d do a quick mock-up to see what my hard-wrought wheels would look like in the wheel arches…



No photos. Too upset to document it! My latest wheel fitting lesson is that there is such a thing as “offset” to be considered. I now know that the standard Porsche 996 wheels have a shallow offset, while Rays G27’s have a deep offset (is that the right way around?) meaning they protrude about 2mm further from the body & make the car look like a dune buggy! I reckoned I could’ve halved the problem by grinding back the brake hubs & adjusting the axle pins, but it wouldn’t have been enough. I finally conceded defeat and reverted to the stock wheels.





With a silver body, my heart remained set on darker wheels. It seems BBS split alloys are seldom painted dark, but, if they are, they tend to have chrome outer rims which I wouldn’t know how to do. I did find one guy online who had his 1:1 set finished completely in gloss black, so – as I wasn’t entirely sold on the TS-38 glitterball effect – black it is!

For the body paintjob mark 2 I flatted back the colour coat as well as the clear coat - something I haven’t done before. I don’t know how soon you can sand the colour coat, but I left it for the same five days that Scalemodler recommends before flatting the lacquer. My process is to wet sand with 1200 then 2000 grit, followed by the Tamiya polishing compounds.



Big relief to get that done, at last! I masked the window rubbers and sprayed with TS-29 semi-gloss black. The black trim under the rear spoiler (which I had originally been concerned by) proved fairly straight forward using AIZU Micron 1mm masking tape – recommended by Paul Bretland – and a brush. Another of Paul’s tips is using Molotow chrome markers on the light recesses: it definitely gives a more realistic effect on the finished article.



Then it was just a case of sticking it all together. I’m still learning which glues are best for each task, but I’m of the view that (with much care) the rapid grabbing quality of super glue works best for windows and mirrors. Yet another of sensei Bretland’s teachings is to use clear varnish to stick the light lenses in place by holding them in position and brushing around the edges to let the capillary action do its thing. Effective and safe!





A small custom feature I added was some mesh inside the radiator inlets. I got a sample of #50 mesh from themeshcompany.com (0.32 aperture 0.19 diameter) which is perfect and will last for many models. I sprayed it black with the Chaos primer and discovered it’s necessary to spray very lightly in several coats or else the holes become saturated.





Finally, the panel lines were accented with Vallejo dark grey wash. I’ll wait for the decals to dry then I’ll do a vanity gallery for her after she gets a last polish & some wax. And that’s another one in the garage! Thanks for looking

[Kevthemodeller]

Lovely clean build

[Pete75]

Lovely clean build

Cheers Kev - much appreciated

[barryf1fan]

Nice! Classy silver - always looks good.

[Gary30]

Smoooooooooooth! Love it, life would be boring without 'issues'....at least that's what I keep having to tell myself

[barryf1fan]

Btw Pete, how'd you do the black around the tail lights?? That looks really good.

Was that brushed on, airbrush or a black paint pen... etc. ??

[Pete75]

Smoooooooooooth! Love it, life would be boring without 'issues'....at least that's what I keep having to tell myself

Cheers Gary - I tell myself that too through the cold sweats!

Btw Pete, how'd you do the black around the tail lights?? That looks really good.

Was that brushed on, airbrush or a black paint pen... etc. ??

Thanks Barry It's another top tip from sensei Bretland: Edding 400 marker pen. Ultra-quick drying & safe!

[barryf1fan]

Thanks Barry It's another top tip from sensei Bretland: Edding 400 marker pen. Ultra-quick drying & safe!

Nice! I'll have to hit up Amazonian website for that. Thank you, sir!