Global Scale Modeller

I'm going with this one because the rules say in use in 1944 and the marking with the kit are for units active in that period. (Also because nothing else in the stash meets the criteria whilst the missus keeps using the "D" word every time she sees me looking at price lists these days.... )

To keep up with the precedent set in the Viper build I also want to try to do something I've never done before -build a diorama base to go with it - well, OK - I've never weather/chipped a tank before either so its a "twofer" here!! Should be fun - for those watching at least, not sure about for me...

So - to start....

History
The kit itself is a new release by Zvezda of the T34-76 as built at the Ural Tank Factory Number 183 - Nizhny Tagil in late 1942. It has the - then - new turret which has a roughly hexagonal form and was referred to by the Red Army as either the "Hex" or the "Nut Turret". It was designed to give greater room for the crew but by Western standards was still cramped. The single large hatch in the turret roof was replaced with the two round hatches giving it a distinctive profile and earning it the nickname "Mickey Maus" from the Germans. Main armament was the 76mm F-34 gun. From the end of 1942 all T-34s were fitted with a new 5 speed transmission with permanent gear engagement. This version remained on the production lines until spring of 1944 with about 20,000 units being produced.

Unboxing The kit
Lets start with the instruction sheet - a tri-fold page with a sprue map first and then the phased assembly diagrams. Very clear, very easy to follow.




Then we have the painting and decal placement sheet. Colour charts are given for Tamiya and Zvezda paints. Decals are provided for :
* T-34 number Red 116 "Leningrades" of the 1st Leningrad Red Banner Tank Brigade at Krasnoye Selo in January 1944.

* T34 number White 107 "Sergei Kirov" of the 1st Leningrad Red Banner Tank Brigade on the Leningrad Front in January/February 1943

* T34 number White 106 "Stalinets"" of the 1st Leningrad Red Banner Tank Brigade on the Leningrad Front in spring 1943




In the decal bag is also the transparency sprue, the mesh supplied for the engine deck and the cord for fabricating the tow cables


Main Sprues
Everything - understandably - is moulded in green - not a bad match for 4BO it has to be said and on first glance the ejector marks are invisible. There are three main parts sprues and five minor sprues with drivers and idlers on.








The tracks are moulded in sections in black on two sprues - first time I've come across this method before. I've seen the rubber band type and the individual link type but not these sectional ones. Zvezda do provide a jig to build the sections into the correct shape - this can be seen at the top of the sprue - so building these up should be interesting....


That takes care of the kit - now for the extras. Arma Models supplied a sheet of photo-etch parts for the T34 - unfortunately they forgot to include the placement/forming sheet so I had to e-mail them and they sent me back a PDF copy almost by return post.. The PE itself is quite nicely done.



For a diorama base I found a piece of timber approx 140mm x 300mm x 15mm. So I am thinking maybe a parked up vehicle re-arming or similar.

Looks like a fun build. Cool liveries to choose from.

I'll be here until the end

This looks good

I'll be interested to see how this goes together; I've built a Zvezda SU-27 and was really impressed by how it fell together - hoping their armour is of the same standard

good luck with this Neil, it should be a good watch and hopefully less stress than the helicopters!

Paul

Quax wrote: Fri Sep 11, 2020 4:30 pm good luck with this Neil, it should be a good watch and hopefully less stress than the helicopters!

Paul

Fingers crossed! I do love my helicopters though..

very nice. Been looking at this kit recently (D word not quite reached here) so look forward to seeing it go together

Cheers folks.

Well - had some time today and the paint for the original Galactica still hasn't arrived so I made a start on the T34... Initial steps in the book are assembling the suspension springs in the housings and then cementing them to the insides of the hull sides. Paint scheme called for Tamyia XF9 "Rust" on the spring bodies but I thought I would use a rust weathering agent on them (on order from Ultimate) so I used Vallejo 70856 "Oily Steel" as the base. Will do the rust when the stuff arrives.

Should turn into a very nice model, winter scheme looks pretty good

I have a T-34-85 kit myself to do, but it will be getting changed to a post-war Polish CW-34....but have enough started at the moment.

Progress thus far:
Suspension is completed on both sides - the kit went together really well this for. the only issue was a bowed floor plate/lower hull. I wound up with the hull upside down on the table with clamps holding the floor in place whilst the cement dried. Only oddity was the final drive housings. There was a nicely detail piece that had to be cemented in place on he inside face - and when you marry it up to the side plate that part cannot be seen!!! Odd or what?
Anyways - this is far as the instructions take us other than assembling the drive sprockets (no teeth??), idlers and road wheels.



Nest step is the tracks - and i must be honest - this is where I lose the plot! I have seen tracks made like rubber bands (Tamiya). I have seen tracks made up of all individual links that you mould to the track path after assembling in blocks (Italeri) but never have I seen it where you have to use a mould to form the curve and the straight sections are moulded as one piece as you see from the instructions:



And this is the first section of track on the mould... There are actually 5 pieces here and getting them to join together is a nightmare, Get one done and a previous one will pop off - literally. I suspect the carpet monster will be fed before I finish this section of the build...

Interesting track jig. I've never seen that before either.

Cant beat the old T34. Some nice PE too.

So - been trying to use the track mould to build the tracks on - and was reaching the point where everything went flying as the mould was SO unstable and thus constantly falling over scattering track pieces every where. However - I refuse to be beaten by inanimate plastic so considered how I could make it more stable before the crpet monster got fed..
This was the answer - and it seems to work!!

Nice solution!

Kind of embarrassing to admit this - but I am really struggling with the track assembly on this T34.
I am assuming that each track plate should be at 90 deg to the Former profile but trying to get the pin sections to marry up is proving a nightmare....... I am coming to the conclusion I really do not like this method of making tracks......

RangerNeil wrote: Sun Sep 20, 2020 10:43 pm Kind of embarrassing to admit this - but I am really struggling with the track assembly on this T34.
I am assuming that each track plate should be at 90 deg to the Former profile but trying to get the pin sections to marry up is proving a nightmare....... I am coming to the conclusion I really do not like this method of making tracks......

The usual method of doing these tracks is to use the drive sprocket as the former (jig) so using their former shouldn't be that different. Maybe Zvezda have made a error. Try using the idlers and drive sprockets instead.

Take your time it will come together

Had a moment of sheer panic tonight - went to try the road wheels etc on to see how it sat - and noticed a small problem - no coconut if you spot it...



Had a look on the bench - no sign of the missing item.. Had a look on the floor - still no sign so I was getting ready to hit the big red PANIC!! button and it occurred to me - I had all the arms in clamps to hold them whilst they dried. Hooked the clamps out of the box and there it was - HUGE sigh of relief!!!



And - wheels on temporarily.

I can understand that panic from experience and a almost daily basis.

Lol, I know that exact feeling. Glad you found it!

Single link tracks can be a complete mare but your doing well, slowly slowly, like HM says

Paul

Yup, slow & steady is the only way to go with those individual link tracks - hope they've not driven you completely off the edge

Got to admit - the Mojo to crack on with this one is sadly lacking right now. and I have no idea why. It's a lovely kit that goes together almost as well as a Tamiya one. I just can't summon the "go" to get on with it unlike the helicopters and Battlestars. Weird or what??

RangerNeil wrote: Sun Sep 27, 2020 7:45 pm Got to admit - the Mojo to crack on with this one is sadly lacking right now. and I have no idea why. It's a lovely kit that goes together almost as well as a Tamiya one. I just can't summon the "go" to get on with it unlike the helicopters and Battlestars. Weird or what??

Can relate. The Tigercat is sucking away my mojo. I'm going to start a Bf-109 to heal the mojo.

aur0ra145 wrote: Sun Sep 27, 2020 11:20 pm

RangerNeil wrote: Sun Sep 27, 2020 7:45 pm Got to admit - the Mojo to crack on with this one is sadly lacking right now. and I have no idea why. It's a lovely kit that goes together almost as well as a Tamiya one. I just can't summon the "go" to get on with it unlike the helicopters and Battlestars. Weird or what??

Can relate. The Tigercat is sucking away my mojo. I'm going to start a Bf-109 to heal the mojo.

Yeah - I keep looking at the stash and there is a Helix that is begging to be built..... Mind you there are also a few Mi-24's and an Mi-V-12......

Keep the mojo up, there's always something in each kit I do that can be a bit of a test....especially tracks!

The build is looking good still, will be nice to see the finished product

Been busy the last few days packing boxes and carting them to a storage site prepping to move home. But tonight I got some free time so I thought I'd better buckle down and try getting a grip on these tracks. 2 hours on and I really do think this is THE worst way to build tracks. You have to push the links together - and there is no lock on them - so when you fold them around the former they fly apart!!! I wound up making the short section that goes around the drive sprocket, pushing it onto the first section I made (the track return)and applying a dab of TET on each edge and as it dried pushing the link down on to the former. Let it set then repeat for the next link - hence why it took so long.... I have a horrible feeling joining the section that goes around the idler to the return section is going to be an absolute nightmare.
This is the finished section:

Sounds like a total pain in the back side. Sorry it's fighting you.

I've found a few helpful tips for working with link and length tracks.
1) Sod any jig the manufacturer gives you, the easiest way to get a track that fits is to glue all the track parts into a single unit, as if working with single link tracks and then wrapping them around the wheels. Obviously you have to attach the pieces in correct order.
2) if the teeth of the tracks don't connect well, you need to sand the links until the dry fit is good, and only then glue them or they'll leave gaps in the finished run.

Got bored with packing and lugging crates so I bit the bullet last night and tonight and cracked on with the tracks. Took a bit of doing but I think I got there:



These two sections are the track return over the top of the road wheels and I think joining them is going to be as big a game as making the individual parts. The track in contact is a one piece moulding as are the riser and dropper, the riser being linked to the contact section by a single pad. I had a nose on you tube and found a couple of videos on weathering tracks - hence the grey base coat. I will try the specking technique with the Ultimate Rust Wash.

Right now I am considering going for a set of these though as I think they will look a lot, lot, better:
http://www.friulmodel.hu/en/atl-124-t-3 ... 2-43-i240/

So I'd welcome any advice form people who have used these.....

Nice job finishing the tracks. Now you've asserted dominance and want to change to the friul? Up to you of course, but I think I would give them the finger and finish them off.

RangerNeil wrote: Thu Oct 08, 2020 11:11 pm Got bored with packing and lugging crates so I bit the bullet last night and tonight and cracked on with the tracks. Took a bit of doing but I think I got there:



These two sections are the track return over the top of the road wheels and I think joining them is going to be as big a game as making the individual parts. The track in contact is a one piece moulding as are the riser and dropper, the riser being linked to the contact section by a single pad. I had a nose on you tube and found a couple of videos on weathering tracks - hence the grey base coat. I will try the specking technique with the Ultimate Rust Wash.

Right now I am considering going for a set of these though as I think they will look a lot, lot, better:
http://www.friulmodel.hu/en/atl-124-t-3 ... 2-43-i240/

So I'd welcome any advice form people who have used these.....

I have 4 sets of friuls , but have never cracked the box....sorry. I have heard people say the pin holes need to be drilled out first and to use stiffer wire than what they provide.
I haven't seen gray being used as a base coat for tracks so I'm keen to see the result

This is the return section dry-fitted in place - it looks too "taut" for realism (even the wife said it looked wrong....). A T34 not under power has the tracks sagging between the road wheels and where it does bend between the drive sprocket and the road wheel its not very convincing/realistic. A mate used to own a T-34/76 and those tracks are heavy!!
These more resemble a T-34 under power....





NB: Wheels are dry fitted too - I need to finish the rims on the ones with "tyre"s on and get the airbrush on the solid ones as it looks like the brush never reached far enough in

Probably not much you can do about it now. Another problem when using their jig I guess.

digger303 wrote: Fri Oct 09, 2020 5:25 am Probably not much you can do about it now. Another problem when using their jig I guess.

Thing is Digger the contact and return lengths are 1 piece mouldings. The only pad sections are around the Drive Sprocket and Idler so you can get the curve right.
In all fairness its not a bad way of making track up once you get the hang of using the formers - it just doesn't look "right". If they had rippled the return length it would be 100 times better

RangerNeil wrote: Fri Oct 09, 2020 12:56 pm

digger303 wrote: Fri Oct 09, 2020 5:25 am Probably not much you can do about it now. Another problem when using their jig I guess.

Thing is Digger the contact and return lengths are 1 piece mouldings. The only pad sections are around the Drive Sprocket and Idler so you can get the curve right.
In all fairness its not a bad way of making track up once you get the hang of using the formers - it just doesn't look "right". If they had rippled the return length it would be 100 times better

Agreed...why didn't they. They were half way there already.

I agree as well. Are you going to switch to the Friul?

Got to see how the money goes - daughter is getting married tomorrow.... But I am sorely tempted. I want to try my hands at a diorama for the first time - maybe the crew reloading.... If money is tight I might go for Soviet tank riders as the vehicle moves forwards....

RangerNeil wrote: Fri Oct 09, 2020 10:53 pm Got to see how the money goes - daughter is getting married tomorrow.... But I am sorely tempted. I want to try my hands at a diorama for the first time - maybe the crew reloading.... If money is tight I might go for Soviet tank riders as the vehicle moves forwards....

If your going to go for that the track slack is then transferred to the rear idler where the track leaves the ground and the idler before it returns if that makes any sense.

digger303 wrote: Sat Oct 10, 2020 12:44 am

RangerNeil wrote: Fri Oct 09, 2020 10:53 pm Got to see how the money goes - daughter is getting married tomorrow.... But I am sorely tempted. I want to try my hands at a diorama for the first time - maybe the crew reloading.... If money is tight I might go for Soviet tank riders as the vehicle moves forwards....

If your going to go for that the track slack is then transferred to the rear idler where the track leaves the ground and the idler before it returns if that makes any sense.

Oh yes From memories of hacking around the W&P arena under acceleration the tracks bow out from the drive sprocket and the track in contact and the remainder is thrown out between the track in contact and the idler. Its a good way of seeing who's been a good boy/girl on checking track tension and who hasn't !

A conundrum - you have a tracked vehicle moving at a speed of 20mph. Point A is an arbitrary point in the middle of the track in contact, Point B is an arbitrary point in the middle of the return track.
What is the speed of the track at Point A and Point B?

This is an actual question from the Testers handbook for those going for their Cat. H license (track laying vehicle steered by its tracks) in the UK.

RangerNeil wrote: Sat Oct 10, 2020 1:12 am

digger303 wrote: Sat Oct 10, 2020 12:44 am

RangerNeil wrote: Fri Oct 09, 2020 10:53 pm Got to see how the money goes - daughter is getting married tomorrow.... But I am sorely tempted. I want to try my hands at a diorama for the first time - maybe the crew reloading.... If money is tight I might go for Soviet tank riders as the vehicle moves forwards....

If your going to go for that the track slack is then transferred to the rear idler where the track leaves the ground and the idler before it returns if that makes any sense.

Oh yes From memories of hacking around the W&P arena under acceleration the tracks bow out from the drive sprocket and the track in contact and the remainder is thrown out between the track in contact and the idler. Its a good way of seeing who's been a good boy/girl on checking track tension and who hasn't !

A conundrum - you have a tracked vehicle moving at a speed of 20mph. Point A is an arbitrary point in the middle of the track in contact, Point B is an arbitrary point in the middle of the return track.
What is the speed of the track at Point A and Point B?

This is an actual question from the Testers handbook for those going for their Cat. H license (track laying vehicle steered by its tracks) in the UK.

Don't think I'm going to pass that test... My guess is the track in contact with the ground is 0 and the other is 20

digger303 wrote: Sat Oct 10, 2020 1:51 am

RangerNeil wrote: Sat Oct 10, 2020 1:12 am

digger303 wrote: Sat Oct 10, 2020 12:44 am
If your going to go for that the track slack is then transferred to the rear idler where the track leaves the ground and the idler before it returns if that makes any sense.

<snipped>

A conundrum - you have a tracked vehicle moving at a speed of 20mph. Point A is an arbitrary point in the middle of the track in contact, Point B is an arbitrary point in the middle of the return track.
What is the speed of the track at Point A and Point B?

This is an actual question from the Testers handbook for those going for their Cat. H license (track laying vehicle steered by its tracks) in the UK.

Don't think I'm going to pass that test... My guess is the track in contact with the ground is 0 and the other is 20

Close but no coconut!!
You got the first part right - Point A does indeed have Zero ground speed.
Point B however is twice road speed so at 20 mph that track return is belting past at 40 mph.
When moving through the public we had to have walkers in front and to the sides to stop it fatally curious from trying to touch the return track - the vehicle might be be moving at walking past but the track return ain't - grab it and you get to kiss the drive sprocket before you can blink!! And yes - we had idiots who tried it....

But this digresses......

For the track weathering this is where I got the grey idea from:


And these are the assembly instructions for the Friul tracks:
Pinned (Tiger)


Links (Sherman)

Congratulations to your daughter!

Keep in mind that that set of Night Shift tracks were on an abandoned vehicle.

Gotta wonder at some people who would even think about sticking their fingers anywhere near a moving surface which has crevices to catch and rip ones fingers off.
I was thinking if the bottom point was at o mph/ then the top would have to be moving at twice forward speed to to get a average tank speed of 20, but I thought nah I'll try to play it safe and not seem too dumb....

PS.... CONGRATS on a new son in law.

digger303 wrote: Sun Oct 11, 2020 1:20 am Gotta wonder at some people who would even think about sticking their fingers anywhere near a moving surface which has crevices to catch and rip ones fingers off.
I was thinking if the bottom point was at o mph/ then the top would have to be moving at twice forward speed to to get a average tank speed of 20, but I thought nah I'll try to play it safe and not seem too dumb....

PS.... CONGRATS on a new son in law.

Never underestimate the insanity of people around MV's!! Best (worst!!) we had was blasting around the arena and having a chap in a wheelchair scoot forwards into the path of the OT-90 to take photos.....

Thanks for the congrats - this was the 1st small (due to COVID) wedding - they are planning a second full scale one in 2022 hopefully post COVID.
I've told her - next time forget the suit and coloured waistcoat, I'm wearing 12th/13th C. chain mail and a Templar surcoat... Or perhaps 1970's Soviet uniform with AK......
Daughter and son in law

RangerNeil wrote: Sun Oct 11, 2020 3:30 pm

digger303 wrote: Sun Oct 11, 2020 1:20 am Gotta wonder at some people who would even think about sticking their fingers anywhere near a moving surface which has crevices to catch and rip ones fingers off.
I was thinking if the bottom point was at o mph/ then the top would have to be moving at twice forward speed to to get a average tank speed of 20, but I thought nah I'll try to play it safe and not seem too dumb....

PS.... CONGRATS on a new son in law.

Never underestimate the insanity of people around MV's!! Best (worst!!) we had was blasting around the arena and having a chap in a wheelchair scoot forwards into the path of the OT-90 to take photos.....

Thanks for the congrats - this was the 1st small (due to COVID) wedding - they are planning a second full scale one in 2022 hopefully post COVID.
I've told her - next time forget the suit and coloured waistcoat, I'm wearing 12th/13th C. chain mail and a Templar surcoat... Or perhaps 1970's Soviet uniform with AK......
Daughter and son in law
IMG-20201011-WA0013.jpg

Beautiful pic your daughter looks stunning.
A wheel chair jez....makes you wonder.

Very nice picture. I wish them nothing but the best life has to give.

Belated congratulations to your daughter mate - that's a cracking photo

Going back to the tracks is there any way of gently heating the return run and then applying slight pressure to get them to sag between the wheels?

Tomcat64 wrote: Tue Oct 13, 2020 10:26 am Belated congratulations to your daughter mate - that's a cracking photo

Going back to the tracks is there any way of gently heating the return run and then applying slight pressure to get them to sag between the wheels?

Many thanks - moderately proud of her She had to take 2 weeks off work as she heads up a Respiratory ICU/CCU Physio team so she had to stay clear of the big bad COVID.

The tracks - that's a good idea about applying heat to get the sag. I will investigate that. I ordered a set of of Friuhl tracks last night and I want to do one side with them and one side with the plastic supplied in the kit to see what looks best!! (And get some experience in working with metal tracks. )

Lovely pic. Great to see life still goes on. Congrats