When do i remove the tapes from a canopy?

[wappynutter]

Okay, aircraft builders or just modellers in general my question, as the title suggests is when is the time to remove the canopy tapes??
I have built then taped up... ( standard masking tape so odds on it bleeding under are great )... the canopy carefully..
Cheap £1 shop grey primer, plane underside gets a topcoat of light grey, mask up again and topcoat the entire upper surface of the plane.
Brush paint camouflage then mask again and apply white band to tail.. Remove tape then spend 30 mins cleaning up bleed marks with cotton buds, toothpicks and soft brush dipped in warm water....
Recovered and saved the white band and Camo scheme...
Now considering the Klear coat for Decal work. Following decals will be another coat of Klear, a little oil wash to mucky it up then topped off with a coat of Vallejo matt varnish to seal.
So again... when can I uncover the canopy to check and if needed clean up and finish?
I am worried that once I have matt coated that...
1) the final coat will be damaged and ruin the entire model when I remove the tapes after all these coats going on and drying..
2) I will successfully remove the tape but find the canopy is ruined beyond repair because I have left it hidden behind the tape for so long that any bleed has dried solid and spread with further coats being applied.
I did dip the canopy in Klear and let it dry for a few days before masking up. Will this protect and assist if I need to work any seeped paints?
Sorry for the long question but as many of you know this is my first real build ( not scratch-built ) since I was about 9 or 10 years old and don't wanna mess it up as I have a nice little build post planned with some diorama and mixed materials building going on..
All comments gratefully received guys..
Thanks in advance..

[Paul]

Remove the canopy when the model is finished it'll almost be the very last thing you will do, its always a bit nerve-racking but it has to be done.

Get yourself some tamiya tape its only a couple of quid you dont need to use the dispenser for it and its excellent stuff

[coladito1]

Hey there,
I always try to keep this step for last, It is what I am used to. If there is any over spray I simply take a cocktail stick and scrap it it off. for me it is always a good thing to keep the clear parts protected at all times till the moment when you know you are not going to apply any kind of coats of any sort on your model....... but it is a personal preference.

Regarding the Klear, I always do so. First I dip them and let the Klear cure for 24 hrs. and then mask them. it will assist when it comes to scraping off any over spray as it is used as a PROTECTING coat and it also acts as a clear coat. hope this helps.

[coladito1]

Remove the canopy when the model is finished it'll almost be the very last thing you will do, its always a bit nerve-racking but it has to be done.

Get yourself some tamiya tape its only a couple of quid you dont need to use the dispenser for it and its excellent stuff

Paul is right about the Tamiya tape. it is awesome!!!

[Radzy]

Yo,
from my own recent experience I can only second statements of Paul & Louis... Hesitate till the very end

This is what you may end up with if you remove canopy mask too early:



The effect was caused by surface of clear canopy parts with mineral spirit I used to create and test my own oil wash (this was in fact Talens 090 White Spirit I used to dillute Vandyke Brown paint from Winsoor). I'm really happy that this was a cheap easy series kit from HB I bought for training skills

[wappynutter]

Okay mate, Thanks for that.
I thought as much but its the "not knowing" with the canopy finish that's driving me insane.
I'll order some Tamiya tape even if I just save it for "important" use like canopies etc....
Thanks again Paul.
Thanks Luis, and will do Radzy.... hope my canopy has stayed good..

[Paul]

Okay mate, Thanks for that.
I thought as much but its the "not knowing" with the canopy finish that's driving me insane.
I'll order some Tamiya tape even if I just save it for "important" use like canopies etc....
Thanks again Paul.
Thanks Luis, and will do Radzy.... hope my canopy has stayed good..

Fingers crossed buddy.

[Radzy]

Regarding the Klear, I always do so. First I dip them and let the Klear cure for 24 hrs. and then mask them. it will assist when it comes to scraping off any over spray as it is used as a PROTECTING coat and it also acts as a clear coat. hope this helps.

Hi Louis,

Oh that's a good tip with dipping the clear parts in Klear. If I understand correctly - any gloss varnish (e.g. Microscale GLOSS) should do the trick?

Kind regards,
Radek

[Lee]

The very, very last thing I do on a build

[CrackedCubes]

I usually remove the tape from my canopy right before the Tower gives me clearance for takeoff! But hey to each his own I guess!

[Rob]

Only done it twice - last thing i did in each case

[wappynutter]

Thanks again guys....
Yeah I was pretty certain I had got to wait, I had with any masking on my scratch-builds..... its just I was hoping to cut some corners etc...etc....
Speaking of corners I was playing with the idea of using a can of clear gloss aerosol lacquer as opposed to Klear.
Will this effect the acrylic paints already used or the decals going on? Can I coat with this after decal application also?
Or am I best to just stick with Klear?

Radzy, the canopy being dipped is into a product called Klear,( future shine, Johnsons pledge floorwax ) an acrylic floor wax that dries hard and improves the plastic piece making it more see-through and clear if its scratched and dull.
I have never seen anyone dip in a standard gloss varnish or microscale gloss.
Paul would be able to explain it easier mate as I too am just a novice at this kind of thing..
Any advise greatly received guys... Thanks in advance again .

[Radzy]

Radzy, the canopy being dipped is into a product called Klear,( future shine, Johnsons pledge floorwax ) an acrylic floor wax that dries hard and improves the plastic piece making it more see-through and clear if its scratched and dull.
I have never seen anyone dip in a standard gloss varnish or microscale gloss.

Unfortunately Klear cannot be bought here in Poland and Polish equivalent - Sidolux - comes in too many different variants. It's hard to explain then ... why the hell you need 5 bottles of floorwax ??!
But if I have occassion I'll try the one I have at home and see what happens.

However in general there should be no difference between Klear and any standard gloss varnishes - both do the same. Protect surface against anything that's above
But ... hmm I'm also still a noobie to modelling, so maybe there's some difference ...

Regards,
Radek

[UKscalemodeller]

Thanks again guys....

Speaking of corners I was playing with the idea of using a can of clear gloss aerosol lacquer as opposed to Klear.
Will this effect the acrylic paints already used or the decals going on? Can I coat with this after decal application also?
Or am I best to just stick with Klear?

I gloss coat mine a couple of times,

paint, gloss, decal, gloss, weather, Maybe Matt or Satin to finish.