Global Scale Modeller

A while ago I came across 3 kits with lots of parts off the sprues and even one mostly painted on the sprues. That was this Hasegawa A6M5 Zero in 1/32.
In order to strip the paint I decided on Scotts method of using oven cleaner foaming type.
I got a air tight container sprayed every part and even gave it a second going over using up almost all the cleaner. 48HRS later and the paint was still mostly firmly attached. So I bunged it back in the container sprayed the last of the contents over the parts once more and then work snuck up on me. A month later I opened the container to this


So out with the tooth brush and scrubbed away under a running tap of fairly hot water and achieved a 97% result with some still firmly attached and some that was so obviously laughing at my pitiful attempts and not one iota came off that. I did notice though some real staining of the plastic.

Never tried this method before. I use Mr Levling thinner and tooth brush. But never had to remove that much paint. A method to keep in mind

I have used oven cleaner for chrome removal. Luckily I have never had to remove paint from an entire model!

I have found Isopropyl Alcohol (99%) works to remove my paint cock ups. Never tried it on old paint but so far it has worked on 2k and also that glossy gloop you find under stripped chrome. A 2 day soak is usually enough.

I did some digging as I had to get the paint off the Tu-144 when it reacted with the gloss I originally tried. Best recommendation was original orange Dettol if memory serves correctly.

Mr Color Levelling thinner and a toothbrush or kitchen roll/swabs. You can even use it on clear parts without them frosting. Take care though as the plastic may get brittle from brake fluid or oven cleaner - they work but just keep a close eye.

You left it a month!!!???

I have never done that, maybe an hour or so...but then I am stripping stuff I just screwed up not old paint.
I would call that a success you didn't destroy the model after a month, though most would have evaporated.

The old Porsche I refurbished took a longer time and a couple tires. I used thinners to finish off the leftovers. The paint comes off easy, it is the primer that is toughest.You have to be so careful not to mess up the plastic with hot thinners or soften the styrene so much it gouges easy during clean up.

Just straight isopropanol. Applied with a stiffish brush, leave for a 30 seconds and start working with the brush and apply more as required, rise off with water as soon as most of the paint is removed, stuban areas I go back over.

Large areas/pieces I work in sections

I've removed all types of paint including enamel this way, some older or thicker paint requires a bit more time/working but it all comes off with no effects on the surface.

Twokidsnosleep wrote: Sat Nov 20, 2021 1:05 am You left it a month!!!???

I have never done that, maybe an hour or so...but then I am stripping stuff I just screwed up not old paint.
I would call that a success you didn't destroy the model after a month, though most would have evaporated.

The old Porsche I refurbished took a longer time and a couple tires. I used thinners to finish off the leftovers. The paint comes off easy, it is the primer that is toughest.You have to be so careful not to mess up the plastic with hot thinners or soften the styrene so much it gouges easy during clean up.

What can I say I live dangerously or I'm not that motivated at times
I still have a stukka with the canopy masked up after a number of years. I must get back to that sometime ....

I don't think any evaporated as it was in a air tight container much like yours. Certainly lost it's foaming ability for sure.