Global Scale Modeller

Posted: **Fri Nov 19, 2021 3:22 pm**

Stick it to us with your favourite glue and your most hated glue.

1.What glue is always on your desk?
2.What glue do you avoid?
3. What formulations do you use for what applications
4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not
5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling?
6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story

Posted: **Fri Nov 19, 2021 4:15 pm**

Well tha't an interesting subject ! Can't wait to see what will be the answers and may be get a few tips...
On my side, my answer will be short ! Where i'm from, there's not a lot of option so my glue is tamiya extra thin and the regular one. They work fine for me. I use CA glue when required with painted parts, resin or PE but I hate it very much !!!!!!! I use regular white glue for canopies or windows.
Other brands are not acessible for me. Except from mail order ! So i try to buy as much as possible at my local hobby store to support them.

Posted: **Fri Nov 19, 2021 4:19 pm**

1.What glue is always on your desk?

TET, 'natch.

2.What glue do you avoid?

None that I'm aware of so far.

3. What formulations do you use for what applications

TET for almost everything, Tamiya white top for where I need a bit more working time or a large flat area. C/A for PE (Perfect Pen) and Glue n Glaze for glasswork. Occasionally UV glue where the need arises.

4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not

I've pretty much only used Tamiya glues, and as they work "if it aint broke dont fix it".

5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling?

Very occasionally use a 2 pack epoxy or PVA/wood glue.

6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story

Spilled some TET on my mat. Whilst cleaning it up I forgot I had a F-15 wing sitting at the edge, the glue had seeped under it. Result was a melted wing that had to be filled, sanded and re-scribed.

Posted: **Fri Nov 19, 2021 4:31 pm**

Garion77 wrote: Fri Nov 19, 2021 4:15 pm Well tha't an interesting subject ! Can't wait to see what will be the answers and may be get a few tips...
On my side, my answer will be short ! Where i'm from, there's not a lot of option so my glue is tamiya extra thin and the regular one. They work fine for me. I use CA glue when required with painted parts, resin or PE but I hate it very much !!!!!!! I use regular white glue for canopies or windows.
Other brands are not acessible for me. Except from mail order ! So i try to buy as much as possible at my local hobby store to support them.

Forgot to mentionned my "disaster"... well I had remove the cap of my CA extrathin glue bottle, as the cap was filled with dry glue ....and accidently knock it down and it spilled all over my mat and the model I was working on. Being extra thin it really went everywhere. The model was thrown to the garbage and so was the cutting mat.

Posted: **Fri Nov 19, 2021 7:41 pm**

1.What glue is always on your desk?
Tamiya Extra Thin, Bob Smith Ind. CA glue (thick and thin), Tamiya orange cap cement, Testor's clear parts glue, PVA

2.What glue do you avoid?
None really, I like most glues!

3. What formulations do you use for what applications
I use TET for raw plastic and on occasion for painted small parts. I use CA for photoetch and heavily painted parts. Testor's clear parts or PVA for clear parts

4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not
I have always had good results with Bob Smith CA glue so I have stuck with them (no pun intended). Tamiya cement speaks for itself!

5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling? Every now and again I might need to use come 5 min. epoxy.

6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story
Nothing too drastic. Just your run of the mill spillages and fingerprint episodes!

Posted: **Fri Nov 19, 2021 8:18 pm**

1.What glue is always on your desk?
Super Glue from brand find on mall, Revell Contacta and Green Tamiya glue.

2.What glue do you avoid?
Colle21, i've a very very bad surprise using it, it dried directly on the pot and became a big block! I don't want to buy it anyway.

3. What formulations do you use for what applications?
Superglue is for pe and metallic parts, Contacta and Tamiya are for plastic parts.

4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not?
Contacta works for years now, Tamiya cement seems to be very good too.

5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling?
For diorama yes but not for building plastic kits.

6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story!
Colle21 dried on the pot and also some Contacta on my fingers which ruined a finish Me 109 with marvelous finger prints on the body!!!!

Posted: **Fri Nov 19, 2021 11:15 pm**

1.What glue is always on your desk?
Tet, Contacta , VMS extra thin Ca and sprue goo for adhesion and gap filling.

2.What glue do you avoid?
Humbrol poly cement.....the container is so hard to squeeze.

3. What formulations do you use for what applications?
Superglue is for pe and metallic parts, Contacta and Tamiya are for plastic parts.

4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not?
Contacta works as do a few others, but it's available and easy to use. Tamiya tet is always reliable and also available as are VMS cements and CA. Plus with VMS if I have a question even unrelated to his products I've found him to be very helpful only a email away.

5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling?
PVA for sticking foam sheets together.

6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story!
I have 2.....tipped over the Tet ruined my cutting mat and instantly melted a kit wing. You can't even quickly wipe it off all you can do is wait for it to dry ( off the wing ) and the second is gluing my fingers together with Ca. Who hasn't done that

Posted: **Sat Nov 20, 2021 9:23 am**

1.What glue is always on your desk?

TET, its revolutionized the hobby for me

2.What glue do you avoid?

Liquid CA glue

3. What formulations do you use for what applications

I use TET for all plastics except clear parts. For clear parts I use Tamiya's white cap glue. Its thicker than TET and viscous and can be applied using the brush in the pot or a drop on the end of a tooth pick. For PE I use any gel-based CA glue. Its more forgiving than the liquid stuff and gives that extra fraction of a second to position a part.

4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not

TET because its blessed by Angels!

5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling?

Nope - haven't needed it so far

6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story

About a month ago I knocked my TET over. Mercifully, none of it went on the kit. It did, however, skin all the print off my cutting mat. Stank to high heaven too!

Posted: **Sat Nov 20, 2021 4:39 pm**

1.What glue is always on your desk?

TET, CA, and Testors clear

2.What glue do you avoid?

I'm surprised that nobody mentioned the old Testors tube cement (ha, ha)

3. What formulations do you use for what applications

TET and sometimes CA for plastic, CA medium and thin for PE and most resin, Testors clear for canopies

4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not

N/A

5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling?

Only for diorama's.

6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story?

Nope, I am perfect in every way (just kidding). If you model long enough you will have not a story, but stories. For me they would include:

- sticking fingers together
- scarring a model with glue either with your finger, tweezers, or when trying to set a part in place.
- trying to remove a glue mistake with a cotton swab only to leave cotton hairs in its place.
- gluing something out of sequence only to have to use debonder or destroy the part to complete an assembly.
- applying to much Testors clear glue only to have it blob inside the part, but this is an easy fix.

On another note, I did have a disaster that was fixed with some glue. Specifically, cutting a finger with a razor knife and fixing it with super glue and pressure to hold the sides together until the skin bonds. Depending on the depth of the cut, it can burn like heck initially, but then seals up nicely. Perhaps that the issue with my joints... my body has absorbed too much glue through my cuts and pores and that is why my joints are starting to stick and don't want to move as well (smile). After all, it can't be my age, can it?

Posted: **Sat Nov 20, 2021 10:35 pm**

My turn to have a go

1.What glue is always on your desk?

Right now I have an old "bottle" of Beatties cement - akin to Revell Contacta - plus a bottle (or 2) of TET. And a small bottle of PVA for canopies etc.

2.What glue do you avoid?

Not really found one yet - although I think I'd be leary of using Gorilla glue

3. What formulations do you use for what applications

I use the Beatties for small assemblies and detail work,
TET for seams and where large sub-assemblies join the main build,
White glue/PVA for canopies and other glazing,
CA for PE and/or metal parts

4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not

I use the TET after reading recommendations on here.

5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling?

Well - the white glue is marked for woodworking - does that count??

6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story

Spilt TET in my lap once - that was not fun. No kits were harmed in the spillage - only me!!!

Posted: **Sun Nov 21, 2021 1:27 am**

1.What glue is always on your desk?

TET, Model Masters PVA, generic CA glue in both medium and thin.

2.What glue do you avoid?

Testors

3. What formulations do you use for what applications

TET for anything plastic. CA glue for everything else. PVA for clear parts and basing minis, i.e. putting dirt on the base.

4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not

TET is the best in my opinion. So why change?

5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling?

Just for dioramas, generally gluing the foam together.

6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story

Yes. As recalled in the From Russian with Love 2016 GB... this model eventually became my test model for paint.

aur0ra145 wrote: Tue Mar 01, 2016 5:09 am Found out that I should have put weight in the nose cone so the model doesn't sit on its tail.

Sweet. So, I decided that putting weights in the fuel drop tank would work out perfectly. Went out and bought some split shots, super glued them in. Placed the halves together and went to glue on the tail cone. At this point, I became rather confused. There is no possible way that the molds could be that far off, right? Right. I did a bit of research on the shape of tail cones for Mig-21's and my assumptions were correct. Revell had Brad Pitt the bed on this one. Spent about 20 minutes trying to make it work. It won't. There is no way.

Revell 1 - Me 0

So, a bit upset but not down trodden I figured there would be another way to do this. The nose gear bay was open and if I smashed the split shot weights a bit, I could shove them in. They should rest nicely in the nose cone. No problem. Just dab a bit of super glue in there, and you'll be fine, right? Right.

The plan started out great. Smashed maybe eight of the little weights dropped them in the gear bay and they fell into the nose cone. Awesome, maybe Revell ain't so bad after all, you know, for having so few details that I can correct gross mistakes via their lack of engineering. Now comes time for the super glue. I drop in a few drops. Rotate the model and do a few more, you know to get it all in there.... Then I feel something wet. And oddly warm. What the? (expletive deleted)! The super glue was running around the nose cone and onto my hand. Not good. First thing first, I grabbed a paper towel for my hand, not really thinking and watch the model drip super glue on the floor.

Revell 2 - Me 0

At this point I wiped the floor quickly, and wiped my gluing hand on the paper towel and it comes back all papery and very slightly gummy. Dammit. So the bright part of me said, "hey, you should rub your fingers together and the left over paper towel will come off.

Revell 3 - Me 0

Nope. I as a 26 year old male had-for the first time in my life-glued not just two but three of my fingers together with super glue. Terrific. So I spend the next 30 minutes trying to pry and pick off the super glue. Then I google searched and figured out that acetone will cut super glue. Awesome. I did that and cleaned up myself and the floor.

I also think my canopy is fogged a bit.

Revell 4 - Me 0

The nose cone looks bad for the glue. I don't know if I'll respray it, or just roll with it. Could be a good conversation topic, "Hey, why is the nose cone all funky looking." "Oh, that's from the time I tried to shower with super glue and glued myself together. Great times! AHahaha." Yeah. I did get the missiles glued together; but, I don't know if I'm going to keep them around. Depends on how they come out looking painted.

Anyways, I snapped some pictures in the aftermath as my hands were a bit occupied while this transpired.

Best solution at the time.

The damage to my lovely nose cone. I may just sand it and re spray it...

Thanks for reading. Comments, suggestions and critiques are always welcome.

Posted: **Sun Nov 21, 2021 7:34 pm**

1.What glue is always on your desk?
Tamiya extra thin and the thicker variant. CA glue in both gel and thin versions and a black version I have yet to try. Also just bought some MIG Ultra Glue for PE and clear parts. PE parts are my nemesis and I'm looking for a good glue to use for them.

2.What glue do you avoid?
I'm with Ben. I definitely avoid the tube glues from my youth. In my teens and 20s, I would read books talking about bottled glues with applicator brushes but could never find those anywhere. One would apply the glue directly from the tube until one figured out using a toothpick for application and even then it was stringy as heck. Unless one was lucky and knew an accomplished modeler, one would just sort of stumble along modeling. There is so much info and items available to modelers now!

3. What formulations do you use for what applications
Tamiya glues for plastic and CA for painted parts and PE.

4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not
No

5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling?
No

6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story
I think Ben covered them all.

Posted: **Mon Nov 22, 2021 11:14 am**

Glue always on the bench

There is always some Bob Smith CA Glue on the bench.
Yes, there is always some TET, but that is cement not glue!

Glues to avoid

The smell may be nostalgic, but the strings are no fun at any age.

Formulations

The only "formulation" I use is for Sprue Goo. I start off with the TET remnants but thin it out with Toluene. It speeds up the drying time (not much, but some).

Trusted Brand

Hard to say without having tried all brands, but for plastic cement, I tend to stick with Tamiya.

CA glue is a different story. I have been using mostly Bob Smith due to its ease of acquisition. However, Starbond Flexible Black is quickly becoming my go-to CA glue. The color makes it easy to see and it is flexible so parts don't snap off as much. Even once applied the color can aid in using some de-bonder to remove excess. It is pricey but so is everything else we use.

Non-Model Glue

Depends on the type of glue...

Polyurethane - Gorilla Glue
Two-Part Epoxy - Gorilla Glue or JB
Spray - 3M Super 77

PVA is a little different as I do have Kristal Klear, but I don't use it every time I need PVA. If I need a significant amount I have a big bottle of cheap hobby store white glue.

Disaster

I have spilled a bottle of TET and had to rebuild parts (and melted the mat). So has everyone else that has ever modeled. Don't lie, you know you have.

Posted: **Wed Nov 24, 2021 4:26 pm**

1.What glue is always on your desk?
TET, Tamiya white Top and CA & PVA

2.What glue do you avoid?
As mentioned previously I tend to avoid the tube glues that were a staple of modelling when I was a kid.

But there have been a couple of cases where I've resorted to them if I want some extra strength in a bond and can't get it with Tamiya white top.

3. What formulations do you use for what applications
TET for basic styrene assembly; Tamiya white for anything that needs a bit more effort - and I can't remember which kit it was but I built one that seemed impervious to TET so had to go for the stronger stuff.

CA gel or PVA for PE.

PVA in some form for clear parts.

CA for resin & metal - especially figure kits; I've also been known to use Evo stik impact for white metal if nothing else works but it stinks.

4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not
I've settled on Deluxe materials for CA as I've been really happy with both their liquid & gel varieties and use both depending on what's being stuck.

5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling?
I've used PVA wood glue which sticks as well as any modelling PVA and is generally cheaper.

6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story
Aside from the generic TET spillage, the only other glue related disaster was using acetone to get some CA off something (can't remember what) and the stuff leaked through the container it was in and warped up the rear deck of the Jagdpanther I'd left next to it...

Posted: **Tue Nov 30, 2021 2:55 am**

1.What glue is always on your desk?

My BoB Marley Industries CA glue and the kicker is almost always front and center on my desk.
Yes it is Bob smith, but that is a boring name:ro

Of all things fluid, I have spilled that G-D kicker bottle more times than anything else

TET regular and quick set also close at hand
Sprue glue is another often used cement/ filler for me
PVA white glue of various brands as well
I also use the dreaded stringy hairy Testors red tube probably more often than I like to admit. It works well to get initial hold before I hit something with TET

2.What glue do you avoid?
None really, I am game for anything

3. What formulations do you use for what applications
Ya you guys went over that pretty well
Ca for quick set needs, resin and metal
PVA for clear parts
Sprue glue to fill gaps and cement at the same time
The others I mentioned for styrene

4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not
Usually stick to locally available brands. I tend to buy glue at my two local hobby shop and not online

5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling?
I use a two part apoxy sometimes.
The other is a contact cement Shoe Glue called “Barge Cement “ for fabric, leather, paper etc. That stuff is wicked good but stinks like crazy
6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story
I have CA glued my right pointer and thumb together and had to call for wife to grab her nail polish remover and rescue me
TET spill across the desk destroying a cutting mat..check
CA kicker across the cutting mat taking off all the lettering…check, check,check
Leaking bottle of CA glue into my plastic mobile car drawer. Hell of a mess.

BTW do not clean CA spills with paper towel, it will heat and start the paper on fire potentially. Better to hit it with kicker and set it up then clean.

Posted: **Wed Dec 22, 2021 8:46 am**

1.What glue is always on your desk?
All the Tamiya range plus Mr Hobby SP Black

2.What glue do you avoid?
Most CA sold in bottles. It doesn't last, it's often right at the end of it's shelf life or past it by the time you buy it and it ends up in the bin with a almost full bottle

Just use the small tubes

3. What formulations do you use for what applications
Same as everyone else

4.Do you use/trust only a specific brands? Why or why not
Tamiya and Mr Hobby they work and are easy to use.

5. Use any non modelling specific glue for modelling?
PVA for some difficult PE

6. How about a glue disaster? you have to have a glue disaster story
Not yet

Global Scale Modeller

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