Global Scale Modeller

Hi guys as some of you may know i have been doing my mossie with some battle damage and eveythin was going great until i came to put on the MATT varnish and once it dried this is how it turned out





the varnish in question is humbrol enamel matt No 49

So how do i fix this i have but loads of work getting it this far an im SO F****ng P****d of you would not belive can i save it at all or is it in the BIN for it.

Oh no Nige... Is it acrylic and did you airbrush it,it looks to have separated, unless the coat of varnish you put on was too thick and it's run

its enamel mate and brush painted waiting until i do the whirly cobra to break the air brush out and it went on thin and used how i always do.

Nige201980 wrote:its enamel mate and brush painted waiting until i do the whirly cobra to break the air brush out and it went on thin and used how i always do.

Damn, it looks to have separated, sadly I've no idea how to fix it mate someone else may know.

From watching your vids it seems you did a lot of masking on this kit - perhaps the residue from the tape mixed with the varnish. I'm afraid of giving you advice in case it ruins the mossie further as I have no experience with this, sorry

thanks mate if ive got to strip it all back it will go away for a bit until ive calmed down a bit.

Nige201980 wrote: thanks mate if ive got to strip it all back it will go away for a bit until ive calmed down a bit.

Feel gutted for you mate, nothing worse when it all goes wrong.

DC87 wrote:From watching your vids it seems you did a lot of masking on this kit - perhaps the residue from the tape mixed with the varnish. I'm afraid of giving you advice in case it ruins the mossie further as I have no experience with this, sorry

it has at least 4 coats of klear two before the decals two after then one after (so thats 5) i did the weathering then the MATT clear coat ready for so powder burns on it. so i dont think it that DC i might do a video some one in you tube land might be able to help

Paul wrote:

Nige201980 wrote: thanks mate if ive got to strip it all back it will go away for a bit until ive calmed down a bit.

Feel gutted for you mate, nothing worse when it all goes wrong.

the thing is i wouldn't mind if it something i haven't done before or a product I've not tried but something I've done on nearly every kit i have built as really p****d me off

It is worth trying some enamel thinners on a cotton bud and seeing if you can wipe it off?

Maybe its an issue with the enamel varnish reacting with the acrylic Klear?

Gav0909 wrote:It is worth trying some enamel thinners on a cotton bud and seeing if you can wipe it off?

Maybe its an issue with the enamel varnish reacting with the acrylic Klear?

That was my thought, as it looks like when klear has collected in corners etc.

Paul wrote:

Gav0909 wrote:It is worth trying some enamel thinners on a cotton bud and seeing if you can wipe it off?

Maybe its an issue with the enamel varnish reacting with the acrylic Klear?

That was my thought, as it looks like when klear has collected in corners etc.

I'm getting similar effects - maybe not that massive as Nige got (my apologies mate! ) - when using enamel based washed thinned with some mineral spirits (especially when I overdo with spirits when working on wash afterwards)... They leave nasty whiteish trails or streaks...Unfortunately I couldn't find the remedy for that nothing except repainting it as a whole ...

Thanks for the advice guys it's been put away for now until I can find a solution or I can be bothered to strip it back again.

That's why I am funny about mixing enamels and acrylic products. Sometimes they simply don't mix.

Hence why I use acrylic products only, no such issues as this, and much simpler to use/clean in a lot of cases.

Oh dear...

My first thought was to suggest you contact Humbrol to try and find what caused this but as other products have been used then they would surely blame the rival manufacturer naturally. I think a vid on You Tube would be a good idea stating whose paint and what other manufacturers products have been used including the masking tape. These pointers may well throw up a solution as I expect this has happened to someone else before.

I feel for you with the obvious work involved so far and hope you get a swift reply...I'm sure others on here would like to know what has caused this as much as you do.

Brian

gutted for you Nige!!! I've never come across this before, so I can't help. (I try to stay clear of humbrol products).

I hope you find the answer mate, good luck!

Sorry to see that happen. But think winter maybe crashed into a frozen lake ?

Sorry to see that happen. In my last job I sold paint for living. This looks like what is called solvent lock. The clear coats you put on May have not been fully cured and still had water that had not evaporated. When you applied the enamel Matt as it dried it trapped the moisture between the clear and Matt coats. Enamel paint and clear finishes do not breath, that means they will seal the finish air tight. Humidity may have been a factor in this disaster.when humidity is high it will take longer for coatings to cure.Unfortunately I don't know any easy was to help with your problem. I have found a product that will strip the paint back to the plastic. The draw back is you will have to soak the model overnight and it will strip interior painting as well. This product is Krud Kutter spray parts cleaner. We would use it to strip paint from sprayer that we were repairing. I used it to clean my airbrushes at first, and the I used it to strip paint from a model railroad locomotive shell. This product did not harm the plastic and removed all of the paint. this is one possibility for what happened to you. I just awish I could have been more help

I think Mike may have hit on the cause...'Klear' being water based acrylic not fully dried out sounds quite feasible to me. Humidity is not something that we see or feel in the atmosphere all the time. it is very high when rain or fog is present of course but in the high temperatures of Summer it can be way up high at +90% and we rarely notice it...except maybe if we perspire more than normal...especially when a thunderstorm is due...then we might notice it.

This may explain why this problem has not occurred to you in the past when you did the same procedures without any problems...could simply be down to the humidity on that fateful day...

Brian

i think you could be right as i had been left for a least a week before the matt coat was applied and thinking about it it was chucking it down when i did it as well. going to try and sand it back next week so i will post an update if it works.

and thanks to everyone who has offered advice and help cheers guys

I know of an excellent product to use as a stripper ( if you can get it ?? ). In the U.S., it sells at auto parts stores under the name of "Super Clean". It is a grease emulsifier, and works wonderfully as a paint stripper for most all kinds of paint on plastic models. *** Never tried on resin, so no experience there ***.
It is also marketed under the name - "Purple Power". Over here, it comes in what I call a "people eater purple" jug, and sells for about $12 a gallon. The only real caution is *wear gloves", as it will take the oil from your skin. It is non-toxic, but as with ANY chemical, use caution & common sense.
Parts (or entire plane in this case) can be soaked for a couple days if need be with no damage to plastic, and then gently washed with toothbrush and dish soap, which should remove all residue.
I have used in model railroading extensively, with no damage to cars or engine shells.
After straining paint out of it, it can be re-used several times, and when "worn out", pour it down the drain (eats grease, so a "win - win".)

Don't know if the tip will be any good to you, but thought I had to put it out there, just in case........best of luck

Jim J. -- "olfogey"

olfogey wrote:I know of an excellent product to use as a stripper ( if you can get it ?? ). In the U.S., it sells at auto parts stores under the name of "Super Clean". It is a grease emulsifier, and works wonderfully as a paint stripper for most all kinds of paint on plastic models. *** Never tried on resin, so no experience there ***.
It is also marketed under the name - "Purple Power". Over here, it comes in what I call a "people eater purple" jug, and sells for about $12 a gallon. The only real caution is *wear gloves", as it will take the oil from your skin. It is non-toxic, but as with ANY chemical, use caution & common sense.
Parts (or entire plane in this case) can be soaked for a couple days if need be with no damage to plastic, and then gently washed with toothbrush and dish soap, which should remove all residue.
I have used in model railroading extensively, with no damage to cars or engine shells.
After straining paint out of it, it can be re-used several times, and when "worn out", pour it down the drain (eats grease, so a "win - win".)

Don't know if the tip will be any good to you, but thought I had to put it out there, just in case........best of luck

Jim J. -- "olfogey"

cheers for the tip mate I'm really hoping i dont have to strip it if i have to go that far it will be put in storage until i have the stomach to face stripping it.

Cheers guys well i got back to to the mossie this morning and im happy to report im making some inroads to this mess shall we say

right before pictures



and after



What i did was just lightly sanded it 400 grit paper and a nail buffer and scraped the bigger white spots with a round bladed craft knife to get most of it of then gave it wipe down with white spirit and reapeted to this stage you see above.

going to do a very deliberate pin wash and some powers to help knock it back some more.

Funny thing is if it had turned black or grey i would be very happy on how it nows looks lol. but at least it looks as if i can save it.

Nice recovery Nigel mate.....
So glad you didn't give up....
Excellent stuff mate, pleased for you loads...

Cheers Andy just needed some time to calm down and have a think on it

Looks better Nige hopefully you can save it

Pleased for you Nige. looking good again.

I must admit when I first saw you embark on the wood effect with the damaged paint over the top I was doubtfull it would look good but it looks GREAT!

cheers Paul its a start still along way to go but getting there

Your not the only one Ian i thought i had bit of more than i could chew but i agree it look ok well good enough for me lol

Nice save! Looking forward to seeing the finished model.

That's a truly weathered look...lol