Aussie Centurian serving in Veitnam

[digger303]

Hi all.
This is the AFV kit of the Mk 5 Centurion serving in Vietnam. The Aussies made a few unique changes to make it more suitable for service. The first thing that leaps out at you is the tank didn't have side skirts or lights as the vegetation blocked them up or ripped them off. Then there is the external fuel tank fitted to the rear as this beast was terribly thirsty. It was secured with explosive bolts in case it had to be jettisoned in a hurry.
Then there is turret basket and various stowage extra's, phone box and star pickets.



Some of the sprues already had parts snipped out by a previous owner, but I think they are all there.




A bit of sprue goo to fill the gap and glue it up.


The replacement mantlet and canvas cover which AFV never did well. Now it did not fit well...surprise surprise you all say..
It required the removal of material from the back of the resin part and removing half the bracket where the gun would pivot. Then it fits
fairly close, but will still need some solid clamping.

[BigWall]

Cool subject and you're off to a good start!

[RangerNeil]

Nice subject for a build Digger.
As it happens I have a mate down in Melbourne who served in 'Nam & on Cents. I'll send him the link to this build if you don't mind - it will interest him.
Looking forwards to seeing the progress on this.

[digger303]

Nice subject for a build Digger.
As it happens I have a mate down in Melbourne who served in 'Nam & on Cents. I'll send him the link to this build if you don't mind - it will interest him.
Looking forwards to seeing the progress on this.

Cool subject and you're off to a good start!

Thanks guys.
Yeah I don't mind Neil. I will probably need a few pointers.

When I was adding the turret top I found it was actually a bit wider than the turret bottom piece. So I've had to sand it down to get a match and off course that removed a lot of cast texture. I resorted to Mr Hobby 500 to add that back.
Also been attacking the turret basket which is a real fiddly thing to clean up and cement together being in 4 pieces and so ready to break. Sprue glue I've found is better than TET for joining thin rods.



Tracks go together Ok as long as you remove a little material from the inside of the pivot joint ( towards the centre of the link ). Unfortunately there is 2 shallow ejector marks per link and your fingers will be sore after pressing all those links together. Good news is they give you a few spares in case some of the pins get knocked off. I messed up 5 whilst assembling these and still have maybe 10 spare.

[aur0ra145]

Very cool subject, looking forward to following how this build progresses.

[BigWall]

Nice tip about using sprue glue on those rods! I'll have to remember that one.

[digger303]

A short update despite spending a lot of time at the bench I haven't gotten very far. I've spent a lot of time trying to work out where things go and supposed to look. Not sure if I'm succeeding however this is my progress.



Some resin Panniers on as well as the mantlet. A lot of cutting of the kit part as well as a fair amount of gouging at the back of the resin mantlet to get it to fit. Now when I dry fitted it I got a fairly decent fit, but then I added CA thin to it and I must have lost some alignment and it set so quick. So I had to putty up the edges cause there was no getting it back off for another go.
Also removed the molded on wiring and replaced with copper wire.

A bit of Eduard Pe mesh for the basket. I think it should have a larger weave, but this is what they provided.

I'm planning to work on the smoke dischargers next. How much I will here depends if I can cut or punch the perfect sized disc's.

[BigWall]

Very nice building up Digger

[digger303]

Very nice building up Digger

Thanks.

I've got the wheels mostly assembled.


Plus the suspension is built and the tracks are assembled.
They are workable with a spring trapped behind structural member. However while the linkages are movable the vertical one isn't trapped on the one closest to the ground and has a habit of working its way out of it's home.

[DRUMS01]

I created a post on this but it never made it to your build string. I want to say good call on the surfacer and especially on the cable upgrade as the one molded into the turret looked questionable. Your looks just right. Your work on the mantlet was worth the effort too. Nice subject and nice modeling my friend.

[digger303]

I created a post on this but it never made it to your build string. I want to say good call on the surfacer and especially on the cable upgrade as the one molded into the turret looked questionable. Your looks just right. Your work on the mantlet was worth the effort too. Nice subject and nice modelling my friend.

Thank you kind sir much appreciated.

Time for a little update as well.

Fenders are on one doesn't quite match up to the front guard and is warped. A little TLC should see that right, but so far everything is fitting like a glove.


The extra frontal armour the Aussies fitted is also on. A few molded on greeblies had to be removed first as well as sanding the resin plate down flat-ish as much as possible without removing the weld lines.



AND of course the definitive Aussie add on. The external fuel tank without it most of the tanks wouldn't have been able to move operationally too far at all. Did I mention the Centurion was a thirsty beggar...



I've got a couple of large resin pieces still to fit then after that lots of small bits and PE galore. I doubt I will use it all. The search light is a little interesting in how they molded it. The pour block is attached to where the front cover is so once that is cut off and tidied up one has to get creative and add the cover back over the lens. Th edges make it challenging. Pic's will be forth coming in a day or two OR I could just use the plastic one..

[digger303]

Another small update as I'm finding it hard to achieve much with each session at the bench.
I've added the fender tool boxes, some Pe around the exhaust system.



Last night I removed the molded on springs for the front hatches replacing them with some copper wire and also some bibs and bobs that are that small it's a wonder I bothered.


One mistake that's come to light is that the extra frontal armour that was added I think I placed it too low. As I've found the attachment point for the spare road wheels has them clashing with the tow hooks. trying to remove that and reattach was a option I tried , but it is really firmly stuck and I'd likely stretch and break the resin if I applied more force. So I'll have to try a different approach.

Thanks for tuning in.
cheers

[RangerNeil]

Another small update as I'm finding it hard to achieve much with each session at the bench.
I've added the fender tool boxes, some Pe around the exhaust system.



Last night I removed the molded on springs for the front hatches replacing them with some copper wire and also some bibs and bobs that are that small it's a wonder I bothered.


One mistake that's come to light is that the extra frontal armour that was added I think I placed it too low. As I've found the attachment point for the spare road wheels has them clashing with the tow hooks. trying to remove that and reattach was a option I tried , but it is really firmly stuck and I'd likely stretch and break the resin if I applied more force. So I'll have to try a different approach.

Thanks for tuning in.
cheers

Doing a great job so far Digger - I'd never have the patience for those little details like the hatch springs!!
As for the mount points - can you make copies in plastic card of the right thickness, sand off the the resin ones and add the replacements high enough to clear the foul condition? I'm guessing the extra armour were field mods, not base workshop so no two would be the same...

[digger303]

Another small update as I'm finding it hard to achieve much with each session at the bench.
I've added the fender tool boxes, some Pe around the exhaust system.



Last night I removed the molded on springs for the front hatches replacing them with some copper wire and also some bibs and bobs that are that small it's a wonder I bothered.


One mistake that's come to light is that the extra frontal armour that was added I think I placed it too low. As I've found the attachment point for the spare road wheels has them clashing with the tow hooks. trying to remove that and reattach was a option I tried , but it is really firmly stuck and I'd likely stretch and break the resin if I applied more force. So I'll have to try a different approach.

Thanks for tuning in.
cheers

Doing a great job so far Digger - I'd never have the patience for those little details like the hatch springs!!
As for the mount points - can you make copies in plastic card of the right thickness, sand off the the resin ones and add the replacements high enough to clear the foul condition? I'm guessing the extra armour were field mods, not base workshop so no two would be the same...

Thank you.
I'm sorry my clumsy English skills have you on the wrong track. It is the whole armour plate which needs placing a little higher. The tow hooks are in the right spot. I think I'll just ignore the problem and place the wheels up a bit. Unless your a IPMS judge I don't most would pick it .
My understanding which is possibly flawed that these mods were all carried out before they arrived in Vietnam.
Thanks for checking in Neil.

[RangerNeil]

Thank you.
I'm sorry my clumsy English skills have you on the wrong track. It is the whole armour plate which needs placing a little higher. The tow hooks are in the right spot. I think I'll just ignore the problem and place the wheels up a bit. Unless your a IPMS judge I don't most would pick it .
My understanding which is possibly flawed that these mods were all carried out before they arrived in Vietnam.
Thanks for checking in Neil.

Goof is mine most likely Digger. I thought the two raised rectangles on the resin plate were the mounts for the spare road wheels so removing those and replacing them higher up would solve your problem.....

[DRUMS01]

Hey digger, I'm with Neil on this issue, just remove the road wheel mounts on the armor plate and add new ones just a little higher on the armor plate itself. Looking at the photo when you added it, it looks just fine to me (nice and centered), and it matches the box art too. Just move the road wheel mounts.

Everything else is looking nice including the neat updates for the hatch springs. This will be a nice looking kit when your done.

[digger303]

Thank you.
I'm sorry my clumsy English skills have you on the wrong track. It is the whole armour plate which needs placing a little higher. The tow hooks are in the right spot. I think I'll just ignore the problem and place the wheels up a bit. Unless your a IPMS judge I don't most would pick it .
My understanding which is possibly flawed that these mods were all carried out before they arrived in Vietnam.
Thanks for checking in Neil.

Goof is mine most likely Digger. I thought the two raised rectangles on the resin plate were the mounts for the spare road wheels so removing those and replacing them higher up would solve your problem.....

You are correct they are the bases for the wheel clamps.

[digger303]

A bit of History.

The first purchaser of the Centurion was Australian Army in 1950, however the initial consignment was transferred to the 8th King's Royal Regiment, Irish Hussars at the outbreak of the Korean War. This Regiment was re-equipped with the Centurion and was employed to support the Commonwealth contingent fighting with the United Nations forces.

It was not until February 1952 that Centurions arrived in Australia where they entered service with 1st Armoured Regiment. The tanks were off-loaded at Sydney and delivered by train to Puckapanyal, Victoria. (NB: The Archives Section, State Rail Authority, NSW possesses an excellent photographic collection showing the off-loading and trans-shipment of these vehicles to Puckapunyal.

These photographs are available for examination and copies may be purchased from the Archives Section).

The Australian Centurions were Mk. 3's and these were equipped with 20 pounder guns and the 7.92 Besa mg's were replaced with .30 cal. Browning mg's. The tank training area around Puckapunyal proved a severe testing ground for the Centurion, in particular its suspension system, yet it proved to be a most robust vehicle. With the growing commitment to the Vietnam War in the 1960's, a number of Centurions were modified in 1967 at 3rd Base Workshops, Bandiana, Victoria for employment with the 1st. Australian Task Force serving in Phouc Tuy Province. The tanks were modified to Mk. s/i (Australian) standard by the addition of applique armour on the glacis plate, .50 cal. ranging gun, No 4 RCP sight and infra-red night fighting equipment for the commander, gunner and driver.

In February 1968, C Squadron of 1st. Armoured Regiment, reinforced by a Special Equipment Troop of bridge-layers and tank-dozers and integral to the RAEME (Royal Australian Electrical and Mechanical Engineers) support, was committed to enhance the combined arms nature of the Task Force.

Such was the effectiveness of this armoured combat team, that many repairs, including major tasks, were performed in the field. This practice astounded a number of American Units which were content to recover vehicles to rear maintenance areas or to simply write-off battle damaged vehicles.

Despite considerable scepticism of many observers and senior Army personnel, the Centurion proved particularly effective at fighting in the paddy-fields and jungle areas of Vietnam.

They proved their worth on many occasions, notably in the defence of Fire Support Bases Coral' and Balmoral', during the Tet offensive of 1968, in fighting around Binh Ba and in a number of offensive operations in Phouc Tuy Province. (NB: A good account of the Centurions involvement in Vietnam is provided in the book, "The Battle of Coral" by Lex McAuley).

By 1971, when the tanks were finally withdrawn, all three Squadrons of 1st. Armoured Regiment had served in South Vietnam, with C Squadron having served twice.

During 1955 the 1/15 RNSWL was introduced to the Centurion Tank and these were later to become its main fighting equipment. By 1965 a home training tank was taken on charge at Lancer Barracks and given the name Assegai. A further tank was received later and by 1968 three tanks were located at the Barracks. Prior to the delivery of these vehicles, all training and instruction was conducted at the Armoured Centre, Puckapunyal.

The Regiment was involved in infantry/tank cooperation training with the 5th and 7th Battalions, Royal Australian Regiment prior to their departure to Vietnam. In 1971, the role of the Regiment was changed the that of a Cavalry Regiment and was re-equipped with M113A1 Armoured Personnel Carriers. The Centurions were phased out of service at that time.

In all, the Australian Army purchased 131 Centurions including six ARV's Mk. 2, four Bridge-layers and four Tank-dozers. An interesting conversion undertaken by the Armoured Centre, Puckapanyal was the Driver Training Tank, this was achieved by removing the turrets from conventional tanks and fitting a lightweight enclosed structure fitted with a number of seats for trainee drivers. The Centurion was eventually phased out of military service in 1977.

It's pronounced " Pucka ....Pun...yal "

[digger303]

Well gents it's been 2 and half weeks and you might think I've been a bit slow. Your right I have been I apologise for my laxness.
My excuse is I got bogged down with the PE and adding bits and pieces whilst watching online movies...
Also trying to verify some of the instructions from Eduard and placement of parts or if they were even relevant.

Here's my progress so far.
I've got to touch up the surface texture in a few places , sand the putty off the hatch.


The masking tape is ready for the paint.

Moving to the back, more of the same



The left side. You might not be able to see it here , but the Mr hobby dissolved putty has cracked from shrinkage. Perhaps the gap being filled was too large. I've gone back and filled again with CA glue.



Twisting the anchor points for these handles, keeping them from being distorted and then gluing them down with such a small surface area was
damn painful. More than one pinged off into the sunset and one thing I can thank Eduard for was including a generous number of spares. As you can see I've managed to knock one off...sigh.


Paint isn't far off

Thanks for checking in guys.

[digger303]

I have made a plan change and have decided to add a couple of items. This is a overhead canvas turret shade improvised in the field and used as far as I can tell in the base only. As it would have obscured the field of view.
Using VMS paper and their paper shaper product. I added some brass wire around the perimeter glue it in place in a few spots trying not to spread it much.



Slapped a fair amount of paper shaper on it and folded the edges over waiting for it to dry. The corners didn't work well. Then bent the back 1/4 down and have now run into the problem I knew was coming. How to fit it to the support poles realistically after all it won't look right just floating there.
I shall ponder it...PE eyelets would be good I think.



I may have to add some more paper shaper to get it too sag realistically.

Cheers all.

[Stokesy44]

superb work. The turret look amazing

[digger303]

Thank you Mr Stokes, I kind of regret not upgrading the Mg barrels as I feel that object drags it down a little.
Maybe the paint will lift it a tad....

[DRUMS01]

I've totally enjoyed this build so far, keep it up. All the extras you've modeled into to both the turret and the chassis is transforming this to results that far surpass the initial kits intentions, great job for that...

Do you have an image your working from for the canvas turret shade? If not, I looked up a couple that may assist you in the detailing. From what I see on the images it looks like the tarp is stretched on the corners from one pole to the other, not above them. The sag or drooping of the canvas does not look to severe in the images (?). I also see the eyelets your referring to as well. I agree that it looks like a challenge, but one I'm confident you able to complete at a very high level.

[aur0ra145]

Nice progress, looking good so far!

[digger303]

I've totally enjoyed this build so far, keep it up. All the extras you've modeled into to both the turret and the chassis is transforming this to results that far surpass the initial kits intentions, great job for that...

Do you have an image your working from for the canvas turret shade? If not, I looked up a couple that may assist you in the detailing. From what I see on the images it looks like the tarp is stretched on the corners from one pole to the other, not above them. The sag or drooping of the canvas does not look to severe in the images (?). I also see the eyelets your referring to as well. I agree that it looks like a challenge, but one I'm confident you able to complete at a very high level.

Not pic's I had come across so very much a thank you for that.
I was working off this one mainly for the shade


But they were all made at base in a ad-hoc manner with no two being the same. Sometimes the support poles were left in place before heading out on patrol and they would get all bent up hitting tree's and what not.

Nice progress, looking good so far!

Thank you, another reason for putting the shade up was that the included figure clashes with the MG mount. So the figure was out and the shade was up.... it helps obscure the empty internal space.

[Stokesy44]

Thank you Mr Stokes, I kind of regret not upgrading the Mg barrels as I feel that object drags it down a little.
Maybe the paint will lift it a tad....

Some restrained dry brushing should see you right

[digger303]

Thank you Mr Stokes, I kind of regret not upgrading the Mg barrels as I feel that object drags it down a little.
Maybe the paint will lift it a tad....

Some restrained dry brushing should see you right

Restrained .....restrained you say ......not really my way

[Tomcat64]

Just starting on what I suspect will be a lot of catching up over the next few days and you're doing a great job of knocking this into shape... it wouldn't be an AFV Club kit without some inconvenient warpage would it??

Great work putting the texture back on the turret and all those smaller details you're adding will just add to the finished results even if they're so small you're wondering why you bothered. The addition of the shade is a great idea

[digger303]

Just starting on what I suspect will be a lot of catching up over the next few days and you're doing a great job of knocking this into shape... it wouldn't be an AFV Club kit without some inconvenient warpage would it??

Great work putting the texture back on the turret and all those smaller details you're adding will just add to the finished results even if they're so small you're wondering why you bothered. The addition of the shade is a great idea

Thanks TC
Yes it is AFV, but no warp-ping to be seen. It has gone together without any fit issues at all. It's only the resin front armour plate which I didn't quite position right caused me a problem with positioning the spare road wheels.

[RangerNeil]

Excellent work thus far Digger!! The turret looks an amazing job. Can't wait to the paint go on. And adding the shade was an inspired idea.
Feel your pain with the tiny handles - I've managed to knock one off of the -12's engine pods, lost forever, whilst doing the under carriage struts. So I took the other 3 off for safety. Might have to make replacement.

[digger303]

The turret has been set aside for now while I head off in another direction.
Don't really look like sand bags or the best built bunker, but it's a representation.



The milliput is real old at 6 or 7 yrs so I did a little trick gleaned off the net....Bung it into the microwave for 10 secs ( I was only using small chunks at a time ) and knead it vigorously. Seemed to do the trick and breath new life into it and it seems to be setting just fine.

This being the idea gleaned from a pic.

[Tomcat64]

Nice work on the home-made sandbags & wooden frames

[Stokesy44]

Nice work on the home-made sandbags & wooden frames

My thoughts exactly. If you had bought a pre-formed sandbag bunker I doubt it would have looked better

[digger303]

Nice work on the home-made sandbags & wooden frames

Nice work on the home-made sandbags & wooden frames

My thoughts exactly. If you had bought a pre-formed sandbag bunker I doubt it would have looked better

Thanks guys.

[digger303]

Almost ready to paint.



The base camp is half done.


I've come up against a little problem. My sand bags which were made up from Milliput after 2 days haven't set. Now I could just leave it and they would probably be fine as they don't move, but it bugs me they haven't cured. I did mix it quiet thoroughly and the parts were equal. Maybe old age has struck again. Speaking of old age I also found on my shelf tonight a bottle of VMS matte varnish which was starting to get thick. I added some acrylic thinner (vms) and it seems to have done the trick, but I'm a little unsure of just spraying it on a model I've spent hrs on.

I've made some corrugated tin sheets from 2 Rum cans and they are to go on the front lean too with a tarp covering the rest. The base was pasted with a mud product then a black wash that was partially removed when almost dry. Followed by a pigment sprinkled over the top.

Speaking of old age I also found on my shelf tonight a bottle of VMS matte varnish which was starting to get thick. I added some acrylic thinner (vms) and it seems to have done the trick, but I'm a little unsure of just spraying it on a model I've spent hrs on.

[aur0ra145]

Looking good, I'm sure you'll figure out the Milliput thing. Are the ambient temperatures/humidity within their recommended usage?

[Phillip1]

digger303-You have made a great deal of progress on this project and the modifications to the kit look very good. I am not a tank guy, but what I see is impressive. The sandbags maybe just need more time to dry out. Is it possible putting the Milliput in the microwave made its properties unstable? I am looking forward to seeing more updates.

Phillip1

[RangerNeil]

Is it worth trying the varnish on the sandbags first? If it goes wrong you can rub them down without risk, if it works you've given them a sealing coat.....

[DRUMS01]

Lookin good digger! I really like the diorama design you got going. You have been a modeling machine since I last checked in.

When I built my 1/18 SAS jeep I used Milliput for those sand bags as well. As I remember, it took several days for them to cure completely (around 4 days).

unless you have another scrap model to test on I agree with Neil, that you might want to use the varnish on the diorama first (before the kit).

[digger303]

Looking good, I'm sure you'll figure out the Milliput thing. Are the ambient temperatures/humidity within their recommended usage?

I don't think that's the issue, low humidty and high ambient temps prevail mostly.

digger303-You have made a great deal of progress on this project and the modifications to the kit look very good. I am not a tank guy, but what I see is impressive. The sandbags maybe just need more time to dry out. Is it possible putting the Milliput in the microwave made its properties unstable? I am looking forward to seeing more updates.

Phillip1

Milliput in the microwave made its properties unstable?.......microwaving gently was a tip I found online for old product. If too old it might never cure was also mentioned.
I might put it out in the sun.

Is it worth trying the varnish on the sandbags first? If it goes wrong you can rub them down without risk, if it works you've given them a sealing coat.....

Might be fraught with danger too. Hard varnish flaking off as the milliput moves not to mention tricky to sand nooks and crannies that will push out of shape.

Lookin good digger! I really like the diorama design you got going. You have been a modeling machine since I last checked in.
When I built my 1/18 SAS jeep I used Milliput for those sand bags as well. As I remember, it took several days for them to cure completely (around 4 days).
Unless you have another scrap model to test on I agree with Neil, that you might want to use the varnish on the diorama first (before the kit).

That's a little reassuring.....4 days hmm I have hope... If it hardens then I might do as you guys suggest applying some varnish first.

Thanks guys for all your thoughts and appreciation it is a great booster. My mojo was flagging a little during the week.

[Tomcat64]

Weird about the milliput not curing properly but as Ben says I can take a few days depending on conditions.

Ref the varnish how about trying it with a brush first on a scrap of spare sprue or something and then go to airbrush if that works ok?

[digger303]

Weird about the milliput not curing properly but as Ben says I can take a few days depending on conditions.

Ref the varnish how about trying it with a brush first on a scrap of spare sprue or something and then go to airbrush if that works ok?

I put it in the sun yesterday and it did hardened some of it a little....So fingers crossed. A little fly in the ointment for today is the weather it's going to be a cool 27c and a chance of rain some so I can't leave it out today.

[Stokesy44]

Am I the only one who picked up the old age joke where Digger duplicated his paragraph?

Come on guys, pay attention!

Re the varnish, I wouldn't let a dodgy product anywhere near a kit unless I mule tested it first.

I'm not surprised about the Milliput taking a while. The sand bags are at the wrong end of the surface area / mass spectrum for a quick dry. Give it time and you should be fine. They look superb too.

[digger303]

Am I the only one who picked up the old age joke where Digger duplicated his paragraph?

Come on guys, pay attention!

Re the varnish, I wouldn't let a dodgy product anywhere near a kit unless I mule tested it first.

I'm not surprised about the Milliput taking a while. The sand bags are at the wrong end of the surface area / mass spectrum for a quick dry. Give it time and you should be fine. They look superb too.

Asleep at the wheel...lol

I think the milliput is drying albeit slowly....

[Phillip1]

digger303-I agree the sandbags you made look good.

Phillip1

[digger303]

digger303-I agree the sandbags you made look good.

Phillip1

Thanks for the encouragement. Hopefully I have improved the colour since.



I also made the corrugated iron sheets and added them too since the last update many weeks ago...

Laid down the primer. Trying to use up some stuff I haven't used much....red brown Stynylrez...damn stuff looks orange, but it does make a good smooth surface despite a bit of tip dry.


Then back over with the top coat. Not really happy with the colour I've got this uneasy feeling it isn't right. Not only that I used some left over green which may or may not have been mixed before with another colour. I had enough to make up 12ml and I've run out now it's back to the drwaing board I suspect. Well if I've got to make up a different shade it won't be too much of a problem apart from settling on the right shade....

Looks like a Russian green.



PS... The milliput still isn't 100% hard

[Stokesy44]

Nice paintwork. Re the Milliput, when you think about it, if its not fully hardened, its more authentic that way, just like the real thing. You must have been subliminally thinking that as you worked

[digger303]

Nice paintwork. Re the Milliput, when you think about it, if its not fully hardened, its more authentic that way, just like the real thing. You must have been subliminally thinking that as you worked

I don't think so, but you made me laugh....

[BigWall]

Digger...The diorama is looking amazing!

Can you just do a filter over the green paint to modify the color?

[digger303]

Digger...The diorama is looking amazing!

Can you just do a filter over the green paint to modify the color?

Thanks
I've repainted it last night, but even that Isn't what I hoped for. A filter was my next plan of attack I want to try to get a faded look if I can.