Churchill Mk IV, AVRE

[DRUMS01]

I don't think I can fully explain it, as I was originally going to build a 1/35 Tarhe helicopter next, but this kit and subject kept pulling me to it, so.....

My next kit build is a 1/35, AFV Club, Churchill AVRE with Small Box Girder (SBG) Bridge.



First off, I had no idea that the Churchill tracked platform was used / converted into well over 10 different configurations, not including the original tank. While that to me is impressive in itself, I heard good reviews of this kit, so here goes.

DESCRIPTION:

The Tank, Infantry, Mk IV Churchill was a British infantry tank used in the Second World War, best known for its heavy armor, large longitudinal chassis with all-around tracks with multiple bogies, its ability to climb steep slopes, and its use as the basis of many specialist vehicles. It was one of the heaviest Allied tanks of the war. The origins of the Churchill's design lay in the expectation that war in Europe might be fought in conditions similar to those of the First World War, and thus emphasized the ability to cross difficult ground. After several marks (versions) had been built, a better-armoured specification, the Mark VII, entered service with the British Army. The improved versions performed well in the later stages of the war. The Churchill was used by British and other Commonwealth forces during the North African, Italian and North-West Europe campaigns. In addition, 344 Churchills were sent as military aid to the Soviet Union during the Second World War and more than 250 saw active service on the Eastern Front.

DESIGN:

The hull was made up of simple flat plates, which were bolted together in earlier models and were welded in later models. The hull was split into four compartments: the driver's position at the front, then the fighting compartment including the turret, the engine compartment, and the gearbox compartment.[19] The suspension was fitted under the two large "panniers" on either side of the hull, the track running over the top. There were eleven bogies either side, each carrying two 10-inch wheels.[20] Only nine of the bogies normally took the vehicle weight, the front coming into play when the vehicle nosed into the ground or against an obstacle, the rear acting in part as a track tensioner. Due to the number of wheels, the tank could survive losing several without much in the way of adverse effects as well as traversing steeper terrain obstacles. As the tracks ran around the panniers, escape hatches in the side could be incorporated into the design. These were retained throughout the revisions of the Churchill and were of particular use when the Churchill was adopted as the Armored Vehicle Royal Engineers (AVRE). The Churchill AVRE was a Churchill III or IV armed with a spigot mortar demolition weapon which replaced the 6 pounder gun. The effective range of the 230mm high-explosive "flying dustbin" round was only around 80 yards of 230 yard maximum range. Crew was increased to six to accommodate a demolition NCO in addition to driver, commander, gunner, wireless operator, and co-driver/machine gunner. As well as the mortar ammunition it carried "General Wade" 26 lb explosive charge, and "Beehive" charges of up to 75 lbs of explosive. Both types of charge had to be set manually, but could be detonated from the relative safety of the AVRE interior. The AVRE could be fitted to carry different combat engineering equipment.



NOTE: The above information was provided by Wikipedia and the images from AFV Club.

MODEL KIT:

While many 1/35 armor kits boxes are normally 2-2.5 inches tall, this kit is as tall as it is wide (around 5 inches). So to answer everyones first question, YES, this kit has a lot of parts. This mutli-media kit consist of over 500 parts (excluding the bridge) in the usual green plastic with a further 15 clear plastic parts, 29 etched parts, 24 steel suspension springs, a length of thread, a couple of poly caps and the two full lengths of soft vinyl track. Added to this is the decal sheet, 20 page instruction sheet and the now standard poster with just the box art image of the Churchill MK.III AVRE to add to the collection (as seen in the first image above).



The kits mold quality and details are very good. It is basically the previously molded kit with the upgrade of individual track links versus the rubber belt in previous editions. It also contains a new tooling assault bridge, A-frame legs, pulleys, steel girder gearbox. Other detailed parts include petard mortar, armour plates, metal-sprung suspension system and a choice of markings for 5 Assault Bridge Units (ABG). Along with the out of box kit I also purchased a crew from MiniArt and resin storage from Resi-Cast.





The instructions appear to be well made with clear images and call-outs. Inside the first page is a color chart to aide in detailing the build.



The first 13 steps all revolve around building the right and left panniers.



It appears the you could possibly make the metal spring suspension functional, though it is not called out in the instructions. I just barely started this build before posting this so I really do not have anything substantial to add for now. Stay tuned as the panniers look like some superb detail work.

Up next, "the build", till then.....

[Stokesy44]

Here we go!

Watching on with much anticipation

[digger303]

I fully understand how the Churchill drew you in having 13 in my stash. One day I'll actually build one
I do need to follow you and get some crew. I have the Resicast kit of this bridge so that's another angle that has me
watching too.
Following with intense interest and looking forward to your updates.

[DRUMS01]

I had a feeling that both of you would sign on and check this out. That's funny digger because I searched the forum and expected to find one of these done by you or one of the other regulars that I could check out before I opened the box on this one...

Well Stokesy, it's nice to see your interest in this too. I'm pretty sure I'm going to learn stuff about the Churchill from both of you more than you will from me. I got a late start on this today because of some tests I had to do at our local hospital, but at least I got a start.

THE BUILD:

Steps 1-2 begins with the drilling out of numerous holes. With this kit used for several different variants of the Churchill the holes they specify in step 1 is for the Mark 4 (Mk IV) AVRE. Step 2 is all about adding the metal spring suspension on both panniers. Perhaps one of you can tell me why "they" chose to call the right and left suspension boxes panniers?



The removing the first parts I began to see both flash and mold seams, though small (see below). This means care is needed on every mating surface as well as exposed areas.



The center seam on each pannier is noticable where the springs are attached. The good thing is that the seam will be hidden when the remaining suspension is added. The other mating surfaces fit very well with no seams or ejection pin marks visible.



IMPORTANT 1: The instructions imply (by the arrows) that the springs are glued to the suspension box, but don't do it. They can be inserted into one side/half of the pannier and the springs will hold them in place while you add the other side. What we are going for is a working suspension. Be careful not to add cement to the inner spring locations when assembling both sides.

IMPORTANT 2: Be very careful with the orientation of the springs as one side is offset. The instructions show both sides with the same orientation but that will be a problem when adding the lower suspension arms. If you DO NOT glue the springs that will not be a problem as you can turn the center spring shaft to whatever orientation you need for each side.

Here is a pannier with the springs assembled.



Steps 3 and 4 will have you building the lower suspension boxes and arms. More on that at the next update.

Ben

[digger303]

PANNIERS........Don't really know why they were called that, but it could be because they sort of hang out to the side of the main hull.

I don't know a lot about Churchill hills, but I do like them ever since playing Company of Hero's. They can climb obstacles far better than any other tank of the time are very well armoured,a bit slow and have a p.s.y gun.

[Stokesy44]

PANNIERS........Don't really know why they were called that, but it could be because they sort of hang out to the side of the main hull.

I don't know a lot about Churchill hills, but I do like them ever since playing Company of Hero's. They can climb obstacles far better than any other tank of the time are very well armoured,a bit slow and have a p.s.y gun.

I cant really see you being called as an expert witness in any court cases involving Churchills any time soon!

[RangerNeil]

Also got the chair pulled up and at the ready 'cos the Churchill is one of my favourite tanks!! Whe my Stalwart was in with an MV company for repairs back in '08 they had 4 Churchills in the workshop under restoration - an ūber rare Mk 1, 2 Mk VII', one of which was a Crocodile and a Toad (flail equipped - another of Hobart "funnys") - and I got to have a good look inside them. Paradise

To answer the Pannier question - the word is is middle English, derived from a French word that literally meant "bread bags" - which were carried in pairs to distribute the weight on the carrier. Over the years the word came to be used to describe any installation where two containers are "slung" either side of the carrier. Hence why today you get motorbike panniers, pushbike panniers etc. In the case of the Churchill you have a pair of containers "slung" either side of the hull.

[digger303]

PANNIERS........Don't really know why they were called that, but it could be because they sort of hang out to the side of the main hull.

I don't know a lot about Churchill hills, but I do like them ever since playing Company of Hero's. They can climb obstacles far better than any other tank of the time are very well armoured,a bit slow and have a p.s.y gun.

I cant really see you being called as an expert witness in any court cases involving Churchills any time soon!

Yeah that was really left field. I ain't a expert in anything
Course you know what a expert is ?
A drip under pressure...

In Aussie a drip is a bit of a dope--idiot for those who didn't get it and you know who you are....

[digger303]

Also got the chair pulled up and at the ready 'cos the Churchill is one of my favourite tanks!! Whe my Stalwart was in with an MV company for repairs back in '08 they had 4 Churchills in the workshop under restoration - an ūber rare Mk 1, 2 Mk VII', one of which was a Crocodile and a Toad (flail equipped - another of Hobart "funnys") - and I got to have a good look inside them. Paradise

To answer the Pannier question - the word is is middle English, derived from a French word that literally meant "bread bags" - which were carried in pairs to distribute the weight on the carrier. Over the years the word came to be used to describe any installation where two containers are "slung" either side of the carrier. Hence why today you get motorbike panniers, pushbike panniers etc. In the case of the Churchill you have a pair of containers "slung" either side of the hull.

Middle English huh ? I have enough trouble with the ordinary English... geez...This is getting hard I'll have to revert to Ocker

[DRUMS01]

Now that we got the "panniers" question solved its time for another update. First I should note that Jarrod initially appeared to have no interest in this build but once I started he insisted he help once again, just to ensure Dad gets things done right (smile). So here we go....

Steps 3-5 assemble the lower suspension boxes including the individual arms for the 11 road wheels per side.



After working with larger scale models recently this part of the build required my full attention. While it appears to be a parts heavy assembly (and it is), the build process was straight forward. Careful trimming and clean edges are very important in step 4 when adding the individual cross members to the suspension box. There are slight reliefs in each side to guide the positioning but care is needed to ensure the cross bracing is at a right angle with D1 and D2 which is needed to properly attach the other side. I kept verifying the assembly angles with a straight edge.



If you look close in step 4, it indicates not to glue the suspension arms. We found that funny considering they instructed the builder to cement the springs in place during step 2. If you glued the springs in step 2 it wouldn't have mattered if the suspension arms were glued in step 4. So, if you took heed to our earlier note regarding the springs you will have a functional spring suspension when finished. To ensure the box assembly retained its proper orientation we added each suspension arm and glued its cross brace to the other side before proceeding to the next one. The flexibility of the unglued side made this process easy. Upon completion of step 4 you will have a sturdy lower suspension box.



Step 5 has us add the completed suspension boxes to the pannier spring subassemblies. We recommend the builder test fit the assemblies to ensure the spring mount orientation is correct with the suspension arms. This will help when attaching the two assemblies. The bottom portion of the pannier has very slight raised guides to assist the builder in adding the box suspension correctly. Once again Jarrod and I chose to add each subassembly incrementally by spot gluing a couple attachment points at a time to ensure the assemblies align properly. We have to say that the nicely molded parts definitely makes this suspension process much easier than it could've been.



Step 6 will have Jarrod and I add the road wheels to the suspension arms and springs. If we did our due diligence in removing any flash on both points this should be fairly easy, then we noticed the attachment point of the axle shaft to the single road wheel which was not much larger than a pin head. To complicate the process the end of the axle and the hole inside the road wheel have corresponding key slots though I'm not sure why (?). Perhaps it was engineered into the kit to increase the difficulty of a clean and straight forward bond (smile). Because of the very small margin for error, make sure the road wheel with the axle is fully inserted through the arm and spring. Jarrod and I managed to get them all attached correctly and without gluing any of the moving parts erroneously. Once finished the assembly really looks the part, and functional too!



NOTE: Each suspension unit consisted of a bracket, frame, axle, wheels and springs. With the introduction of the Mk VII the suspension was strengthened by replacing the tie plate between units 2 and 3 with a welded plate producing a combined suspension unit.This change was also retrospectively applied to some earlier Mks, especially those in service as AVREs, Bridge layers and ARVs which were required to carry heavier loads. Looking at this model kit it appears that AFV Club got this detail right!

In Step 7 we add the sides of the hull to the pannier assemblies. Prior to adding the panniers the drive sprocket is added. The instructions show a poly cap retaining sleeve added between the two sprocket halves. The problem in our build was that the kit did not supply these parts (T3).





Upon numerous inspections and inventory Jarrod and I confirmed that the retaining sleeves (T3) were not in the kit. To solve the problem we went to our spares and plastics bin. After cutting the hollow extruded plastic to the proper length we added them and closed the drive sprocket with the outer part. Once the drive sprocket assembly was complete Jarrod and I added it to the side(s) of the hull. We waited to add the front track guides until the panniers and the hull were together to help us align the guides (as there were no pins to aides). And that completed step 7, so far so good.





Thanks once again for following along. your comments are encouraged. Till next time!

Ben and Jarrod

[RangerNeil]

Pity about the missing part T3 - have you notified AFV Club? Too late for you as you've solved the issue but it may help them.
Build itself is progressing extremely well, the detail looks excellent as is the workmanship (as usual )
Well done to Jarrod as well for keeping his dad in check!!

[digger303]

Lovely all is well and looking good.

[Stokesy44]

All those tiny wheels. Amazing how much tank running gear design varied.

Great job so far

[DRUMS01]

Neil, I did call them, they have a number in the instruction book. While I told them I fixed mine from spare parts I felt they should be aware of the shortfall (T3) incase other modelers begin reaching out to them.

Digger, I think if you have that many Churchill's you need to begin building them or send some to me to build (smile). It almost sounds like an addiction; one that may not have a cure (smile again).

Stokesy, while the Churchill has some drawbacks, the armor and suspension were strengths. The multiple road wheel set-up would allow it to cross terrain that many other tanks could not. Another benefit was its ability to continue on mission even if one or two road wheels were damaged in battle.

Ben

[DRUMS01]

Time for steps 8-9 which is basically adding the front sprocket and finishing some of the pannier details.



Right away in step 8, if you notice, they instruct you to remove two blocks on the drive sprocket cover. And it shows C11 with and without the blocks. This part of the instruction creates some issues. First is the challenge of removing the blocks without removing any other nut and bolt detail. Second, when removing the blocks you create ugly holes where the blocks were so now the holes need filled. Third, to fill the holes and smooth the panel there is a great chance of removing more detail on the part. Later in the build we were searching for another sprue, low and behold we found that they provided extra parts on sprue S to replace parts C11 and the corresponding part on the other pannier that already had those blocks removed. This means Jarrod and I didn't need to modify the drive sprocket cover (C11) at all and just use the updated parts on sprue "S".



IMPORTANT NOTE: Study each parts tree and instruction carefully before the build. In the case identified above, the instructions did not identify an alternate part ("S"). If we would've studied the parts trees prior to beginning the build it would've made those modifications unnecessary. Of course, if the instructions were complete they would've listed the alternate parts instead of instructing us to cut on C11.

Step 9 will have you add the small details to the pannier.

NOTE 2: The small bolt heads identified as M2 are added to both panniers around 12 on each side. We recommend the builder ream out or use a drill bit slightly larger than the bolt shaft to make it substantially easier to add the pin head size bolts using pin pointed tweezers.



Steps 10-11 duplicate the same process on the other sides pannier.

In step 12 you complete the details on the panniers.



NOTE: Parts B3 and B4 are extremely thin, small, and fragile. They are connected to the sprue tree with four larger than necessary sprue connectors. The parts represent a holding rail for the tow cables that go above the access hatches. During the removal process (with a sharp knife and a high quality sprue tool) I managed to mangle them to the point that repair is not an option. Our solution will be to replace them with custom shaped brass or PE parts. Speaking of PE parts, the bracket used to hold the track link to the pannier is PE. The instruction does not provide any detail on how it is folded and oriented on the pannier. After looking at the box art and several on-line photos we found that the PE track bracket is bent at 90 degrees into a "L" shape. The top of the "L" is oriented to the top on the pannier connecting to the corresponding two raised dots on the pannier. The track is then mounted by inserting the bracket through the bottom holes in the track, with the larger portion of the track in the upper position and against the pannier (refer to the previous photos).

Step 13 has finally come for Jarrod and I to add the panniers to the chassis floor, rear, and front armor plate. To ensure the chassis is square I added the rear chassis part first to the left pannier before adding the bottom of the chassis. This helped us keep the chassis floor at the right angle (square) between the panniers thus helping us keep the chassis assembly straight. It also helped us add the other pannier correctly. We also recommend that the builder use the top of the chassis by sitting it in place (between the two panniers) to ensure it fits tightly. Once dry remove the top of the chassis and build it per the instructions.

The last step will be to add the weight to the rear of the chassis (to off-set the bridge weight). Here is where Jarrod and I are stropping today.



Till next time....comments and suggestions encouraged.

Ben and Jarrod

[DRUMS01]

Looks like we have more modeling going on in recent times as my last post was on the 25th and it is already back to page 5 of the board index, that's a good thing!.... more modeling!

Jarrod and I stopped in step 13 last update because we did not have the weight to add to the rear of the tank chassis (to offset the weight of the bridge). A quick trip to our local "Hobby Lobby" and I got some soap box derby lead weights. So the first question is how many ounces is 100 grams? Turns out to be a little more than 3.5 ounces.



As you can see by the photo, we've managed to get quite a bit more done, specifically from step 13 all the way to step 23. So, lets just say that we've added the details to the rear (steps 14-15).





Built up the top of the chassis (step 16). This includes assembling the two forward hatches. The kit provides details and the ability to pose the drivers hatch either open or closed. Likewise, the gunners sliding hatch is retained by PE enabling it to slide open or closed. Since the kit has no interior detail Jarrod and I decided to cement the drivers hatch closed. You can also see the four engine access doors. Once again, without any engine detail we cemented them closed. We should note that all the parts fit well and without issue. The option of open or closed access panels and hatches is a very nice feature should a builder want to add additional detailing.



We also built up the front armor plates and rear engine cover, basically closing the tank chassis (steps 17-19). Before closing it up, Jarrod and I also set and glued the forward suspension to simulate the bridge load pulling the front of the tank down just a little (as shown in real images).



Next we added the hinge brackets for the bridge to the front tank (step 20). You may also notice that the machine gun is not in the mount in front as we are going to add it after painting.



Then Jarrod and I built up the multi-part exhaust and access handles (steps 21-22). The kit gives you two exhaust routing options, we chose the vertical exhaust exits that will go through the rear winch assembly. The image shows them without the heat deflector parts attached.



Now Jarrod and I are working on the 73 track links per side using the AFV Club individual links. We will post another update for the track assemblies shortly. Till then, thanks for following.

Ben and Jarrod

[digger303]

Fairly motoring along.
Can't wait until you start adding the bridge components.

[DRUMS01]

As previously mentioned, here is a short update on the AFV Club individual track links. I don't have much to compare them to as I do not have any comparable metal links. The instructions show two of the internal halves of the track links with one external link and arrows showing two of the three pieces being glued together.

This is basically a process where one top and one bottom key together to capture the track pin molded in the inside half. Check out the engraved detail on each track link. I think it will look good on the exposed area of track by the turret.



The tolerances are quite tight but after you start a couple and identify the technique to insert the next external half without breaking any protrusions on either part the process is rather straight forward. All it takes is a couple small dots of CA cement between the two parts away from the hinge points and everything basically snaps in place.



The instructions will have you create 72-73 links per side, or 144-146 pieces per side, or 432 sprue connection points to trim per side. This is where a good precision sprue cutter will greatly reduce the trimming, but it is still a slog. And here is where Jarrod and I stopped today, at least one side is built. Oh, and we did test fit the completed set of tracks which fit perfectly in the guides and sprockets (yippie).



I think we are going to build up the remaining sub-assemblies next (after the second track) so they will be ready for painting. So digger, this will mean the bridge too.

Ben and Jarrod

[digger303]

Going well. The tracks look fantastic.
It will be great to see the frame work of the bridge attaching and how it's laid out.
Any thoughts on the cabling ?

[Stokesy44]

Loving the detail on those tracks

Well worth the effort.

[DRUMS01]

Let's see, the last update was step 23 with the track links. Now that they are done we began completing the remaining subassemblies in prep for painting.



Because of setting assemblies aside for paint, we could not complete step 24 which was the adding of the track guards over the attached tracks. Here we moved forward in building those assemblies. Instead of showing every individual step, Jarrod and I are going to show you the built up sub-assemblies and identify any positives or negatives along the way.

The first assembly after 24 was the mechanical gear reduction winch for lifting or lowering the bridge. We are please to say that is fit together with no problems. We would caution anyone building this kit to make sure the parts are oriented as shown in the instructions. While that sounds obvious, little differences in some of the gears and bracing make a big difference in the fit, so take your time and look over each part carefully. Here is the completed assembly:



Next was the build-up of the turret. One thing we found out much earlier in this build is the desire by AFV Club to make as many parts as possible, especially small ones. We say that because on some parts they mold nice details into it while others have individual pins, hooks, handles, bolt heads, caps, etc. in as many parts as possible (?). We are not complaining about the detail at all, just questioning the need sometimes for the parts count. Speaking of detail, the turret has a nice scale cast texture along with manufacturer casting numbers on the side.

The first part of the turret was building the gun breech and in this AFV club excelled. Once the gun internals were added to the lower part of the turret the top was added to close it up. The external portion of the mortar can be built either in the stowed position or locked in battery, ready to use.



During this part of the build we identified that part "N" (a small metal spring) was not with the kit either. Perhaps it was in the same bag as the polly caps that were also missing earlier for the drive sprockets (?).





Since it was a visible part we decided to create our version of the spring using piano wire and micro solder, here is the result. We hope that with wash and dry brushing that it will look the part:



In step 41 the photo etch bracket (part G19) can appear misleading as to its bending and location, fortunately AFV Club provides a image of the actual part mounted on the gun.



Another nice touch is the option to pose the turret side pistol ports open or closed. In our situation we assembled the left side closed and the right open. The extra little PE provided makes a nice touch. Step 43 allows you to position the TC turret periscope covers in either the open or closed position too; we made ours open. Also, just an observation, the kit provides the flat and raised TC copula but for the Mk IV AFRE version is should be the flat version that is shown during assembly. As the build continues we find that there are numerous optional parts on the sprue, depending on the version your building so the builder will have spare parts for future Churchill builds when done. During this phase we left off parts C18 and E28 to be painted separately. The turret is completed in steps 44-45.





By this point in the build the fording intakes and exhaust, completed track assemblies, along with the rear bridge winch assembly are already added. So this is where the tank portion of the build will stop for paint. Just to give followers an idea of the progress, Jarrod and I set the assemblies together for a couple photos:

Tank with turret and tracks


Previous photo with track fenders, exhaust, and rear lift assembly added


Next is the bridge which fell together easily, but we caution builder's to make sure your orientation of the large end cap (part U4) is correct (referring to the connection points both small and large) as that will impact your ability to keep the sections square when combining them.



And here is where we are at this moment, building the remaining three sections like this:



Looking ahead, digger asked in an earlier post what Jarrod and I were going to use for the cabling for the bridge. While the kit provides some basic black cotton thread, we are most likely going to go with an actual metallic or nylon thread normally used for making jewelry (more on that later).

Next update should have the bridge assemblies done with painting following shortly thereafter.

Thanks for following, and as always comments, suggestions, and criticism are welcome.

Ben and Jarrod

[digger303]

I'm familiar with some of that product, but what I've seen doesn't look like steel cable in the way it is woven. So I am very interested in what you have and your treatment of it

Lovely work on the Churchill and some good tips on the construction.

[Stokesy44]

Beautiful build work, so much detail on the surfaces and the bridging stuff looks great. The cast texture on turret looks superb too.

[DRUMS01]

by digger303 » Wed Nov 08, 2023 8:31 pm

I'm familiar with some of that product, but what I've seen doesn't look like steel cable in the way it is woven. So I am very interested in what you have and your treatment of it

Lovely work on the Churchill and some good tips on the construction.

I know what your saying, but I've seen some metallic thread at our Hobby Lobby previously. When I get it I'll post a pic. As for the treatment, it will most likely involve a grease colored wash followed by some very light pastel rust dusting, but not much. That's my thoughts at least.

by Stokesy44 » Thu Nov 09, 2023 3:13 am

Beautiful build work, so much detail on the surfaces and the bridging stuff looks great. The cast texture on turret looks superb too.

The wood planking on the bridge has a nice texture too. I'm impressed with the little details in this kit.
I think part of the challenge will be bringing out the small details while not trashing any surrounding surfaces.

Starting to think about how this will be displayed in a diorama, its going to be long. Obviously it would involve a damaged bridge that this is replacing. I think I'll start looking for photos of an actual situation. It might look more natural with more people and a jeep or something (?).

UPDATE:

We finished the four sections of the bridge Small Box Girder (SBG) bracing.



I was surprised with the bridge details but also let down a little with some of the ejection pin tabs and their locations. The photo below gives everyone an idea of the large half round tabs that had to be removed around delicate pin detail (parts U6 and U11 had 4 on each part and in curved sensitive locations). This has been an ongoing issue throughout the build.



Next was butting two of the subassemblies together at the large ends to make the two long SBG sections. Once that was done we tied them together with the two part cross sections (U27/28) at each end. Here is where Jarrod and I stopped today (in the middle of step 49).





Looking ahead, there appears to be some very small parts that will be used as stress points for connections and cable linkage. Regardless if the bridge is cemented to the lower hull pivot point or not, this will be a very delicate build once complete. If anyone else has already built this kit, please let me know if there are any concerns ahead regarding those small parts (thanks)....

Thats it for now, thanks for following along, comments encouraged.

Ben and Jarrod

[digger303]

You two are nailing it again...great team.
Those small stress points might need a reinforcing metal pin ?

[Stokesy44]

Great work, the bridge looks great

[DRUMS01]

Thanks digger and Stokesy. I am planning on either metal pins or replacing the small plastic parts with metal ones completely (scratch built).

Progress:

The bridge as an assembly is d-o-n-e, however there are still many small parts and all the cabling to be created. Here are the steps for the bridge.







Things of note during the bridge assembly:

- In step 48 part U22 does not have any specific slot, pin, or mark to fit it to. Careful assembly will have you add half of it to one of the two SBG subassemblies and allow overhang to add the other half of the part to the other identical subassembly. This will also assist you in properly adding the PE part G23.

- In step 48 the guide pins along with the side pins make adding the two assemblies together very, very difficult. To aide in the assembly we suggest that the guide holes on end plates (U4) be drilled one size larger than what is already there as that will allow some slight drifting into place. In addition, we removed the side pins completely as they do not aide in squaring up the final assembly. Doing this will allow you to add the assemblies and keep them square and straight, which will be very important in following steps. Jarrod and I used a straight edge to ensure they were properly plumbed.

- In step 48 the hinge pivot brackets (parts U6 and U11) appear in the instructions to be attached to the outer side of the SBG frame sub-assemblies K and J, this is not correct. Step 49 will correct the previous image by referencing the subassemblies (K-J) and showing the proper orientation to the inside (see below).

- In step 49 the SBG frame can be attached in any configuration as all four ends match the attachment point for part U27. As previously stated, make sure the bridge hinge pivot brackets of subassemblies K and J are oriented to the inside of part U27 when assembling the frame (see image).

- In step 49 all four road plank parts (U1) are identical from the top including the ends but they require careful orientation. Look at the bottom of the parts to ensure they are added correctly to the SBG frame. They must be attached with the multi-angle bracing on the inside of the frame in order for parts U16 in step 50 to fit. Look closely at the instructions and test fit the mentioned parts before permanently attaching them.

- In step 51 it identifies two parts as U32 which is incorrect. One is right and the other is left oriented. The correct part number for the second piece is U33. So when one U32 and one U33 are used together they mate up correctly. By the way, there are 4 identical "U" sprue so you really could add two U32 parts in error if not careful.

- In step 51 parts U20 (two per side) have an ejection pin tab on the side that captures part U24. Those very small tabs must be trimmed for the parts to fit as intended.



On another note, step 31 identifies parts without any part numbers.



Upon careful inspection Jarrod and I identified the fuel cans and carry tray as E1 and E38. Two cans are attached to the carry bracket to make the part shown on the instructions. In addition, the scale angle iron parts holding the top of the cans and attached to PE part G10 are actually other PE, parts G15.



While detail has been overall very good along the way, there has been numerous mold ejection pin depressions and tabs (some shown on the instructions and some not). This can create issues if you do not catch them prior to assembly. There are also numerous instruction errors that I suspect have been caused in part to drawings from one versions kit instructions being added to other versions instructions of that model. That along with new sprue trees added and a mix of borrowed images definitely create some errors, so check and test fit every part and review all the parts trees in the kit before starting on assembly.

Our next update will build some of the cabling and then the painting will begin.... till then.

Ben and Jarrod

[Stokesy44]

Wow those instructions look complicated! They haven't embraced the new modern way of using colour to show which parts and stages are being worked on. My eyes are watering already

Excellent work though, its a proper size with the bridge added isnt it.

[digger303]

Wow those instructions look complicated! They haven't embraced the new modern way of using colour to show which parts and stages are being worked on. My eyes are watering already

Excellent work though, its a proper size with the bridge added isnt it.

What you said....

[DRUMS01]

Thanks Stokesy and digger, mush appreciated. OK, Jarrod and I finally found what we think is the right scale and shape for the wench cabling. We also found another great looking cabling just a little smaller.

Nylon micro weave winch cabling (various colors too).



And here is the other cabling in real metal but smaller diameter.



And here is a better detail view with comparisons. The one on top is the smaller scale real metal cable. Just below it is the lightest color of the S-LON Beadsmith followed by a typical string and then a darker S-LON cable. Jarrod and I are going to use the last one with kind of a steely blue hue to it. The weathering should really add depth (we hope).



Some other thing we've been working on for the Churchill.

- multi part hook clamps for the extended intake and exhaust vents.



- the wench pully's along with the electronic disconnect linkage. You can also see the end of one of the cables. The basic pully contains 5 parts while the pully with the electronic disconnect is made of 11 pieces.



This last week has been a challenge to get some paint on the kit, but we hope to have that resolved this week. Thanks for looking, and let us know what you think.

Ben and Jarrod

[BigWall]

The S-LON cable looks pretty good. Nice find!

[Stokesy44]

Great find.

[digger303]

Those turn buckles have great definition

[RangerNeil]

Nice finds - well done!!

But isn't Jarrod - and possibly yourself - a bit too young to be wenching??

[DRUMS01]

Wow Neil, you got me there, I think I used the wrong word to describe the assembly, we are definitely not wenching! I suppose "winch" and diggers choice of turn buckle are more appropriate.

[Tomcat64]

Fashionably late to this party but now properly equipped

I'm another fan of the Churchill and especially fascinated by the "funnies"

This is another awesome build thread - obiously due to Jarrod's supervision; great detail in the photos & notes and a beautifully neat build as always.

Looking forward to the next steps

[RangerNeil]

Wow Neil, you got me there, I think I used the wrong word to describe the assembly, we are definitely not wenching! I suppose diggers choice of turn buckle is more appropriate.

Possibly you meant to use "winch" and "winching" but the dreaded god of autocorrect caught you out??

Apologies - in my defence I claim the army left me with a VERY weird sense of humour..

[Stokesy44]

Possibly you meant to use "winch" and "winching" but the dreaded god of autocorrect caught you out??

Apologies - in my defence I claim the army left me with a VERY weird sense of humour..

Now now gentlemen, don't make me reach for the belt. This is a model forum, not a Carry On appreciation society.

[Tomcat64]

[DRUMS01]

Sorry for the slow updates as of late. Between Thanksgiving preparations and celebration, Christmas decorating and searching for the right presents for family and friends, as well as band practice and performances, time to sit down and paint is tough.

Still working on the little things however, such as the cable ends; adding the cables to the bridge portion; working on the resin after-market items; building the figures to see how they will be used; getting diorama stuff, etc.

We hope to have a real update soon (with some color).

Ben and Jarrod

[digger303]

Sorry for the slow updates as of late. Between Thanksgiving preparations and celebration, Christmas decorating and searching for the right presents for family and friends, as well as band practice and performances, time to sit down and paint is tough.

Still working on the little things however, such as the cable ends; adding the cables to the bridge portion; working on the resin after-market items; building the figures to see how they will be used; getting diorama stuff, etc.

We hope to have a real update soon (with some color).

Ben and Jarrod

Don't sweat it. I take forever and then have a little flurry of work.

[Tomcat64]

Yup just take your time and enjoy the build is the most important thing here

[DRUMS01]

So, been near a month without showing any work on this. Thought I might provide some updates. Most everything is assembled except some very small parts or details that were waiting for paint. I did manage to get some of those small things done.

- The version Jarrod and I are building will be using the intake and exhaust vents. The slide molding of the one piece vents is excellent, but the small parts associated with them are not. Most of the issues I'm having are with me, not the parts. Some parts are so small they almost disappear within the tweezers. The attach points, hooks, and turnbuckle are individual pieces that would rival even some small PE on ships. The scale plastic rod that attached to the turnbuckle and to the top of the tank were broken in multiple pieces and what was left was severely bent up. I decided to use steel rod in its place. One issue with that was the intake bracing is more like the letter "Y". Both the rods from the turnbuckles join together and a single rod attached to the tank. I saw a couple images with individual rods joining to one location on the tank to, so if the scratch built metal "Y"'s are a problem Jarrod and I may make individual wire reinforcements. After some work, rework, groveling, and more rework, here they are ready for paint. In the photo is a cable for the lift too.





- The tow cables appear on the box image, but the actual photos of the built kit on the side of the box left them off. We were going to add them after painting but then thought better of it and added them now. One strange thing we noticed is that the pin hooks that hold the tow cable ends were far to short on the kit to hold anything, to we also modified them to show a bolt being used to keep them in place through the eyelet. Jarrod and I mentioned earlier in the build that the angle iron used to keep the tow cables in place above the pannier doors were all but destroyed in the mold process so we decided to make our own from modified spare PE. After three attempts we finally come up with something acceptable. So here is how the kit looks with the complete tow cable assemblies on as well as the intake boxes.





- Keeping with the main tank chassis, we decided to add the front machine gun before painting too. Instead of using the poorly detailed kit part Jarrod and I decided to use a turned brass barrel from spares. We think the results speaks for itself. During this update we also added the periscope covers too.



- More on the main tank chassis, we texture painted the exhaust to reflect rust. Here it is drying while resting on the tank. We're still going to add paint variations, but a large part of what lays on the rear deck is covered. The exhaust opening will benefit from some detail painting as well.



- Same thing is going on with the turret, we decided to add the various small parts to the side and top of the turret before painting. Looking at the image it seems we need to straighten the PE before painting (small thing). Once the painting, weathering, and detailing is done, All thats left to add is the crew figures and antenna.



- We finished the main assembly of the bridge to include the lifting yoke and cables. In the process we found that the parts that attaches from the lift cables to the yoke are permanently attached. Since we want to be able to remove the bridge for travel, we decided to make a new end that has a separate piece (pin) that slides through the yoke bracket and through the lift cable assembly. It will hold it firmly in place when displayed and is easily removable for moving the display.



- Jarrod and I have also managed to get the soldiers assembled and the resin after-market detail items cleaned up and fitted as well. Of course all of this will be painted before being added to the Churchill.

So thats it for now, but at least we're still moving forward on the kit. Next, priming, then lots of painting.

Ben and Jarrod

[Stokesy44]

More excellent work. The exhaust is very impressive

[Tomcat64]

Awesome work scratch building the small details to make up for the kit short-falls.

And as Stokesy already mentioned the work on the exhaust system is really eye catching.

It's coming along really nicely guys

[DRUMS01]

Thanks Tomcat and Stokesy. Not being an armor kit builder normally, we find that feedback generally keeps us on track (tee-hee, a little joke with the tracks, did you catch it?).

Jarrod and I wanted to have this update show some painting but that still has not happened. You see, we want to ensure all the assembly is finished to the point of painting but we keep finding things to add. This was especially true when we were looking for any information concerning the pioneer tools (shovel, pick/axe, sledge hammer, pry bar, etc.). We thought it kind of odd that the instructions did not show or tell us anything, but we found the parts in the kit (?). After some research we located the following images:





So with the new information we added the items to the engine and final drive covers for what you see here:



The instructions also failed to call out and forward driving lights, but once again we found the parts in the kit. Here is the end result. One of the little clear lights evidently fell off on the left side, should be an easy fix:



In our research we saw several photos of a brace that tied both exhaust stacks together. This seemed normal with the extended exhaust stacks.



Once again, we found what we thought were the parts in the spares of the kit but not mentioned in the instructions (?). Here they are on the exhaust, but keep in mind that we cannot connect them until the exhaust is fed through the rear winch:



Last update we talked about starting the assembly of the bracing for the intake and exhaust extensions. After several attempts to create something using the Frankenstein method of kit and scratch parts (unsuccessfully), we decided to create the bracing from scratch. You saw some of the work in an earlier photo, but here they are more or less finished. The tensioners will be detailed more through painting:



And the big test was to see if the exhaust, winch, tools, and bracing will all fit in harmony. It was a success, with no touching or binding of assemblies:





The last thing were are showing is pretty much the final; assembly of the bridge carrier components and cables:





And everything from this update:



Well, thats it for now, thanks for following along. As always, comments are not only welcome, but encouraged....

Till next time,



Ben and Jarrod

[Stokesy44]

Great update, Just keeps getting bigger and more complicated!

[RangerNeil]

Thats quite a complex arrangement for a kit! Congrats to yourself & Jarrod on the (usual) high quality of work!!

[DRUMS01]

Jarrod and I finally got the kit primed, in this instance with flat black primer. I previously mentioned that its been more difficult than we thought it would be getting a correct color for the base green.



So here is what Jarrod and I finally came up with:



And here are shots of the premiered kit:





Along the way we started on the accessories, including the figures. Here's the color pallet for them:



Figures in base coat:



Looking forward in getting some No. 24 B.S. 381 on the plastic. Hope to show it next update.

Ben and Jarrod

[aur0ra145]

Very nice progress.