Global Scale Modeller

Started this tonight @ 19.58 Hrs - should have been 19:30 but the OH decided to tell me she was going out all day Sunday with her friend thats going to cost me 10 hours of work because the dogs can't be left alone - I was and am not a happy bunny.
Anyways - this is the kit:


Instructions






















Decals


Sprues












Photo Etch

Time is now 03:30 on the Saturday. I have just finished page of the instuctions!!

This is a cool aircraft, definitely watching this one.

Special hobby seems to have a varied reputation amongst modellers. Be good to see how this goes.

17:00 Hrs Saturday.
The mantra of the day is now "I HATE <CENSORED> PHOTO-ETCH"
Nigh on 22 hours of cutting out, de-burring , sticking, folding (and some times re-sticking) tiny little pieces of metal that I could barely see at times....
Cockpit is 95% complete


Holes are drilled as per instructions and an access panel cut open (don't know why they didn't mould this section with the hatch open!)

Status at 23:00 Sat night
Forward fuselage 85% complete
Main wing 50% complete
Engine 100% complete
Nose gear under assembly.
When the engine has set next job will be assembling the rear fuselage then houning fron,rear and main wing assemblies.
Its a lovely kit to build buy I think the wrong choice for the 48 in 48 challenge. Aside from the amount of PE in both cockit assemblies there's been an unholy amount of deep ejector pin marks that have needed filling and sanding on visible surfaces.

For a 48 hr challenge I think your doing very well despite a modicum of PE and the cockpit looks very good.

Lovely aircraft, but would have chosen something much easier for a 48 in 48 build. With that said, you’re doing great!

Well... The challenge finished at 19:30 hrs Sunday and, obviously I never completed the build so now it will progress as a normal one. After the business with the PE I knew I wasn't going to make it but I might have got the paint on if the OH gadn't cost me all of Sundays build time. So - the build will now progress like a normal one. For the record this is how the Challenge build period ended.










Lessons learnt for 2027:
* Do NOT pick a Special Hobby kit as the subject

Do check & make sure there is no PE..

48hrs is a pretty short time to build a big kit, but you did well to get so far.
Got a couple of SH kits myself, I'll be glad if they aren't too gappy or have ejector marks.

I think you got farther along than I ever would've, especially on this one.

Looking forward to the rest of the build.

Thanks guys.
As regards Special Hobby kits - I would recommend them, they are very detailed. My experience is that the ejector pin marks are on the inside faces of parts that may be open or closed so if you want them open thenthey need to be filled - thinknairbrakes, spoilers etc. Or on the insides of always visible parts like wings. There is also an issue with micro flash so dry fitting is absolutely essential. A few times I never noticed it until parts wouldn't fit tight so a close inspection revealed a slight ring of flash around ejector pin marks.
Back to the work:
The most prominent gaps have been filled and await sanding. These are between the intakes and fuselage and the nose cone and fuselage. On the subject of the nose cone - the joint area beween it and the fuselage is so small it actually detached when I inadvertently picked up the model by it needing it to be stuck back on again. The instructions say the kit is weighted to stand on its undercarriage built OOB but if you use aftermarket stores you need to add weight to the nose cone and I'd be very worried about it staying attached if extra weight were to be put in. Maybe an epoxy resin adhesive would add strength,?






The Drop Tank is completed and ready for primer.


The rail that carres the drop tanks had a small area of shrinkage that needed filling before it could be fitted.

Could a builder add tabs to the inside of the cone to add a stronger glueing surface ?

digger303 wrote: Tue Mar 24, 2026 4:38 am Could a builder add tabs to the inside of the cone to add a stronger glueing surface ?

Yes - thinking about it. Thats a good idea and I wish I'd thought of it. Still got 3 or 4 in the stash so I'll.remember this. Thanks Digger!!

Fuselage is complete apart from the glazing, undercarriage and RAT.
Fuselage, drop tank and the outer face of the undercarriage doors have been primed - now to choose the final scheme.

coming together nicely

I decided to go for the splinter patter cammo scheme so the underside has been done in Light Blue. Between this and the Draaken last yearthats almost finished my supply up so I'll have order another bottle.


The instructor figure is assemble, needs cleaning off and painting. I didn't realise it came with the ejector seat too - luckily the seats in the plane are pushed in, not stuck....

Started on the main undercarriage tonight. 14 pieces per side.
I was looking at a pair of parts, handed left & right thinking they were badly warped and how best to straighten them - but when offered up they are actually the right shape. In the instuctions they looked dead straight...


You can see the other side in the completed Left hand assembly below.

RangerNeil wrote: Sun Mar 29, 2026 3:51 am Started on the main undercarriage tonight. 14 pieces per side.
I was looking at a pair of parts, handed left & right thinking they were badly warped and how best to straighten them - but when offered up they are actually the right shape. In the instuctions they looked dead straight...


You can see the other side in the completed Left hand assembly below.

Often the way with instructions, only offering one view point and very frustrating at times.

Underside is masked ready for the splinter mask to be applied when it arrives. I wondered if it was necessary to apply a top coat of one of the 4 colours first but I can't find anything on-line to say one way or the other...


And painting the rear instructor continues.

The splinter pattern masks came today.


The instructions said to put a base coat on using one of the 4 colours so I used the Light Brown:


Letting this dry overnight to hopefully avoid paint loss when the masks go on and come off.

Painting of the instructor figure continues:

Ps...keen to see how the mask works

digger303 wrote: Thu Apr 02, 2026 11:34 am


Ps...keen to see how the mask works

It's taken me the best part of a day to get this far:


Its impossible to remove the mask sections in one piece. I'm having to remove them a part at a time and try to get them to line up on the model. There are a number of issues with this:
* The adhesive is VERY sticky - as the parts are peeled off the backing they stick to other parts pulling them off. As you try to place them its difficult getting them off fingers or tweezers.
* The parts are not cut completely - there are minute places where they remain attached to other pieces. Which,coupled with the first point makes getting them off the backing difficult.
* It feels - and looks - like the masks were made from flat images. The actual surface of the model is anythin but flat.

Tomoroow I'll have a go at the other side - I may have to redo the first side as there are some large gaps.

I can feel the pain.

Well - all the panels are on, not the greatest of fits but they will have to do. Having done this I'm convinced a better solution would have been to have had a carrier film over the top so the backing could have been removed and the entire section laid over the relevant section then the carrier removed. If I have to do this again I might lay some cling film over the top and see if that works.
The canopies have had their edge masks applied and the centre filled with masking fluid ready for painting, just need the inner faces lined.




The black "dots" all over are actually letters where the mask pieces are labelled according to colour.
B=Black
D=Dark Green
L= Light Green
T=Tan

First of the colour going on - this apparently, is Swedish Light Green:


Painting is going to take a while. The Tan is, of course, done so no need to worry. So we are looking at 1 more day for the Light Green, 2 for the Dark Green and 1 for the Black because the mask pieces need to be replaced after every colour and I'm letting the paint dry for a minimum 18 hours before replacing the mask sections. Where the masks need replacing I am only doing one side at a time so I don't get the pieces mixed up.
One thing is certain - the masks will not be reusable!!

I'm full of apprehension and hope at the same time

digger303 wrote: Tue Apr 07, 2026 11:38 am I'm full of apprehension and hope at the same time

That makes two of us Digger!!
Second day of Light Green is done and drying overnight. Tomorrow we start the Dark Green.....




That will take 2 days then the third day its the Black. From this point forwards I'm going to have to be wary of overlaps on the masks.

Thats some time consuming masking work. Cant wait to see the end result.

Wouldnt it have been easier to only mask off the brown, spray the second color mask that off aswell, spray the third color mask that off aswell and so on instead of masking the entire model at once? I havent worked with these masks so i dont know what the instructions mention.

Elve1984 wrote: Wed Apr 08, 2026 9:36 am Thats some time consuming masking work. Cant wait to see the end result.

Wouldnt it have been easier to only mask off the brown, spray the second color mask that off aswell, spray the third color mask that off aswell and so on instead of masking the entire model at once? I havent worked with these masks so i dont know what the instructions mention.

Instructions said to apply a base colour from one of the 4 used - I chose the Brown as its the lightest. Effectively I have done what you say The area being painted is opened up then once that colour is dryin the masks are replaced and the next colour opened up. Repeat for the other two colours. The masks are intricately shaped so the whole lot had to go on first to make sure they fitted together.

The Light Green masks are back on now the Dark Green has been applied.
I got halfway through, was doing the left side Canard when the airbrush threw a fit - started spattering rather thzn spraying then almost immediately throwing large gobs of paint out. I quickly switched to the Apex and I think I salvaged it OK with the aid of a brush and cotton bud. Absolutely no idea why the airbrush suddenly started doing that. It worked perfectly doing the Light Green yesterday and was thoroughly cleaned after that.
Tomorrow the Dark Green masks go back on and then the final colour Black gets done put on.
What are the odds there will be areas that need correcting because masks have slipped??

So - the masking came off the upper surfaces of the Viggen tonight. Got some repair work and touching-in to do now. Some of the Tan sections are way too big and need adjusting with the appropriate colour.
Quite frankly it was a nightmare. Looking back - if I ever do this again I think it will pay to number each piece AND to trace the outline of each section with a fineliner.

I have seen this done on a kit and told myself that it was more than I wanted to attempt. I commend you on your effort. I think it looks nice actually. With the minor correction and cleanup you mentioned, it will be awesome.

Looking at it with no expectations either way I think it's come out very well, even where the lighter Tan has crept in on some edges in a minor way. In my eyes it looks like it's meant to be that way and looks great.

The errors are corrected, letting it dry overnight then the nose cone gets done in black (being careful not to knock the pitot tube off), the leading edges of the wings get done and then its a coat of gloss varnish ready for decals.

Painting is almost finished - I thought it was but when I pulled the foam plugs out of the inlets I noticed there'd been a big of blow-past that needs adressing. Annoying but these things happen.... So I'll sort that tomorrow and then get a coat of gloss on ready for the decals.

Coming along nicely, gaps in the masking all fixed and the under side has a nice blue/green hue.
On looking at your pic's my mind wandered off on a tanget and I ended up googling the answer to how hot does a nose cone get ?

AI Overview
The nose cone of a military jet can experience temperatures exceeding 300°C (572°F) during sustained high-speed supersonic flight (around Mach 2.0).
At these speeds, the intense friction and compression of air (known as aerodynamic or kinetic heating) cause the nose and leading edges to become the hottest parts of the aircraft.

Temperature Breakdown by Scenario:
Mach 1.5 (Supersonic): The skin typically experiences lower, but still warm temperatures, around 30°C (85°F).
Mach 2.0 (Typical Fighter Combat Speed): The nose cone of advanced fighter jets can reach approximately 300°C (572°F).
Mach 3.0+ (E.g., SR-71 Blackbird): The nose and leading edges can exceed 315°C (600°F).
Reentry Speeds (Space/Hypersonic): While not a traditional jet fighter, the nose cones of reentry vehicles can reach temperatures as high as 1700°C (3092°F), requiring specialized carbon-carbon composite material

A bit of trivia mostly useless info to everyone

Upper surfaces got a coat of gloss clear coat today. Waiting for that to dry so I can flip the beast over and get the underside done.

Got to put my hands up and admit to making a goof.....
I used the rattle can of Vallejo Gloss instead of the SMS through the airbrush - and its not drying again. So I'm giving it another day and then I'l go over the top with the SMS. A blessing in disguise perhaps as a replacement bottle of Microsol won't be here for a couple of days.

In the meantime I'm getting on with the second pilot and the access ladder.






Still.a bit to do.....

Pilot has some finely sculpted facial features....looks good.

Decals are going on at last. The main markings and upper surface stencils are on. Got the fuselage sides and underside stencils to do next.

Great progress Neil! That paintjob turned out really nice!

Elve1984 wrote: Fri Apr 17, 2026 8:50 am Great progress Neil! That paintjob turned out really nice!

Many thanks

All the decals - with one exception - are on and a coat ot matt varnish applied. Next step will be assembling the drop tank and undercarriage onto the plane.











The one exception on the decals is the ejector seat warnings. According to the instructions there should be 4 x Decal S34.


But on the Decal sheet there are only two:


There are, however, 4 x Decal S47 so I emailed Special Hobby asking whether there should actually have been 4 x S34 or whether theres a an issue with the instructions and they should have referenced Decal S47.

Looking good with the stickers on

Just getting better every update.

Undercarriage and ventral drop tank are now on. Canopies are propped waiting for the adhesive to set - I used Ammo Ultra. Just a few more small parts to add and the Viggen will be finished.