Global Scale Modeller

Hey guys!

I've got these ammo shells make from real metal. I think they look good, but maybe a bit too "brassy" considering the scale and all. Do you know what I mean? I'd like to hear your opinion: Do you apply washings, paint or other weatherings to your brass ammo shells?

localjedi wrote:Hey guys!

I've got these ammo shells make from real metal. I think they look goob, but maybe a bit too "brassy" considering the scale and all. Do you know what I mean? I'd like to hear your opinion: Do you apply washings, paint or other weatherings to your brass ammo shells?

Wet them and put them out side for a few days and they should tarnish up nicely.

Ok, that sounds reasonable and fairly easy. Thank you, Paul. I will try that.

Good question but.... what is the idea behind it?

Are you talking about Old spent Cartridges left behind for days if not weeks or months in the elements? or freshly fired or lined up near a gun emplacement, soon to be fired ? Ammo isn't weathered unless abandoned or spent !!!!

That's my take on it; same with modern armament...
Bombs are brand new... and used once installed !

so... don't be turned off by clean looking shells... or bombs !


Happy modeling dude !

Alright, I realize that I should indicate more precisely what I mean. First of all, this is what I basically have in mind: As you can see, the ammo is supposed to be "boxfresh" and unused. I do like the look of the real metal, I just think that it might be a bit too "shiny", especially when considering the downscaling to 1/35. You know, just like you don't use the real RAL colors on a model, but a lighter tone. I'm concerned that the brass shells might look a bit out of place or otherwise "weird" with all the other elements in the diorama being weathered, washed, highlighted, etc.

Does this make sense, or am I making things way too complicated by being an Uber-Geek ?

localjedi wrote:Alright, I realize that I should indicate more precisely what I mean. First of all, this is what I basically have in mind:

brass_ammo_01.JPG

As you can see, the ammo is supposed to be "boxfresh" and unused. I do like the look of the real metal, I just think that it might be a bit too "shiny", especially when considering the downscaling to 1/35. You know, just like you don't use the real RAL colors on a model, but a lighter tone. I'm concerned that the brass shells might look a bit out of place or otherwise "weird" with all the other elements in the diorama being weathered, washed, highlighted, etc.

Does this make sense, or am I making things way too complicated by being an Uber-Geek ?

Don't feel uber Geek ! there is no need for that... LOL

Here is a picture which shows... 2 or 3 different shells...
One Uber shinny ! the others... Not so much...
I guess... you could tone it down... but maybe have one... with some shine left to it ??



Good luck with your project....

Norm.

Maybe some satin or matt varnish will take the shine off enough for you?

T3hGuppy wrote:Maybe some satin or matt varnish will take the shine off enough for you?

Agreed a good matte varnish would tone the shine down and keep the brass color. The shine won't completely go away and leave some shine.

On a side note does anyone know what to do and how to paint modern munitions? Specifically for an M60a1 with reactive armor? I know certain kinds of ammo are certain colors. Example is that dummy ammo is blue.

Thanks to all of you, guys. I think I'm going to try Paul's "wet" method as well as using some matte varnish and then see which result I like best. Norm, special thanks to you for the picture you posted. It does indeed show that ammo shells can come in quite different stages of shine. My idea is getting something like the shells to the very left and right side. Oh well, I'll see. I will try to post some pictures when I have new results.

Quick update on this thread: Here is a picture of three different shells.
The one on the left is not modified at all, in the middle is a shell that was given two coats of matte enamel varnish (Revell), the one on the right had rested in water for about 3 days and then left to "oxydize" for about a week. It's a bit difficult to see the differences between the shells in the picture, but I can assure you that they do have a different shine.
For me, the matte varnish works best, but maybe the oxydized shell just needs more time to "ripen". What do you think? Thanks again for your helpful advice, my fellow modellers!