Revell 1/25 '41 Chevy Pickup

[BobM]

Hi All,

As my third model (to start anyway), I thought I'd try something different than the WWII planes I've been doing (and am planning to do more of). While searching for subjects, I came across Revell's '41 Chevy Pickup and it caught my eye. I'm a sucker for older trucks and this one has a nice look to it.


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

My goal is to try some building techniques that have not yet come up in my prior WWII plane builds. Specifically things like a gloss paint job, wood effect, engine detailing, chrome, etc. After looking through the sprues and instructions, and based on my plans, it looks like this will be my most challenging build to date. Before getting deeper into my ideas, here are the obligatory sprue shots:


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

All sprues were packaged in one big bag, however within that bag four of the sprues from the last photo where individually bagged; the two chrome sprues, the clear sprue and (for some reason) the small white plastic sprue. The clear red sprue was loose in the large bag. You can see that there is some flash on the runners, but it's hard to find any on the actual parts. The gates also seem larger than I've seen on the Tamiya and Italeri/Hasegawa kits that I've done.

The biggest issue I've seen is on the clear sprue. Despite being in a separate bag, the windshield has a good sized scratch right in front of the driver. Looks like I get to learn how to polish clear plastic! It's hard to photograph, but you should be able to see it in the reflection:


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

The kit comes with 2 sets of rubber wheel, a stock set and a custom set. The stock set is on a rubber sprue that was loose in the big bag; the custom set was in its own bag.


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

And here is the decal sheet which looks just fine to my still naive eye:


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

Finally, here are some pages from the instruction sheet. Looks pretty standard, although I've already spotted one mistake, a missing number callout for the generator in step 1. One thing I find interesting is the list of all the parts by name; I think that is a cool touch and not something that either of my plane builds had.


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr


'41 Chevy Pickup by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

My plan is to do a basically stock build, maybe borrowing a few custom features; that's about what I would do if I owned one of these and was restoring it. One interesting note (at least to me) is that I wasn't planning on using many of the decals, specifically not the "Plum Lake Mill and Lumberyard" or the "Slammin' Hammer Custom Automotive Shop" logos; but then I saw that "Slammin' Hammer" is in Santa Clara, CA! Well, guess where my daughter went to school and now lives... I may have to rethink that. I also like the pin striping for the hood, so I'll see how that goes with the colors I've picked out, green over black.

You'll also see that there are decals for the wooden bed deck and side rails; I'd like to try to paint these with a simulated wood effect. They already have woodgrain in the mold, so hopefully it should be fairly easy. If not, well the decals are Plan B; if that doesn't look good, the a nice coat of paint is Plan C!

The last thing I plan to tackle (well actually it may be one of the first...) is to detail the engine with ignition wires, hoses, etc. That should be an exciting and interesting adventure. I've already been looking at reference material and find wires, etc. that should fit the bill pretty well; we'll see.

The paint job will be pretty basic. I'll do a "two-tone" job like the cover, but with green instead of red. Like I said, nothing special, just basic Tamiya paints and a gloss coat. Not too glossy, I think that can be way overdone and it's not something appropriate for what I'm going for. Also little to no weathering, just something to bring out detail. This in itself will be a challenge since there will be no hiding mistakes with chipping and weathering like I was able to do with the WWII planes!

I expect this will take some time to complete since it will become a lower priority when the GBs and SIGs I plan to participate in start. But this will be a good filler during and between those builds.

Well, if you've made it this far, thanks for following along. Now it's time to get to it!

[Twokidsnosleep]

Cool truck

[BobM]

Day 1 Update:

To get started, I wanted to figure out how I was going to wire the distributor, coil and spark plugs. I have see how others do it, but not for a while; my method will be based on what I can recall from that "research". Being a cheapskate and not wanting to spend any money on this; I looked around the house to see what I could find. Having plenty of electronics laying around (some working, some not, many obsolete), I figured I'd be able to find some small wires somewhere. Well, as I'm sure many of you know, most "small" wires in electronics are just too big to work at 1/25 scale. The smallest I found was in an old iPod cable, but this is stranded so it can't be shaped, and it was still too big. But I persevered and eventually stumbled upon some twist ties! These are shapeable and the inner core is just slightly bigger than what is probably the correct size, but good enough. They will need to be painted however.

It also turns out that they fit inside the insulation from the iPod cable (with some persuasion); so I'll use that to represent the connections at the ends of the wires. Fortunately the distributor has some nice posts that I can slip the insulation onto. Unfortunately, the coil does not; instead I drilled an appropriately sized hole into the coil and just slipped the insulation into that. I'm not sure what to do at the spark plug end, there are posts on the engine block and I might be able to just glue the insulation to them. If not, I can trim them off and drill holes.

So here is my proof-of-concept for wiring the distributor and coil:


Day 1 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

With that headed in a good direction, I moved on to assembling the engine and prepping it for paint. I'm not sure the best approach to this. Should I assemble as much as possible, prime, paint main color (which I think is just going to be gray primer anyway) and detail paint or just assemble the main engine block and paint all the pieces individually? I've opted for the latter because I fear that with all the little pieces attached spraying the assembled engine block and then detailing the various parts will be too difficult.

So I've started assembling the main engine block and a few of the pieces that should paint up OK. The all the other pieces are being prepped: removing from the sprues, cleaning up the attachment points and mold lines, making sub-assemblies and attaching to toothpicks. While doing this I discovered that the starter has nothing to locate it on the crankcase; it looks like your just supposed to "stick it on". Well, that doesn't work for me. So I drilled a hole into the crankcase where the start should attach. The starter already was hollow, I just made the hole slightly bigger to match what I drilled in the crankcase. I then sanded down a round toothpick to fit the hole and I'll use that to align the starter during assembly. That will be much more secure!


Day 1 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

I now have all the engine parts ready for paint, but that will wait until I do some chassis assembly so I can have just one big painting party!


Day 1 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

Thanks for looking!

[BobM]

Update #2:

It's been slow going, mainly due to work and life keeping me from having any bench time; but last night and this morning I had a chance to make progress.

The next step was some chassis assembly. A few little fiddly pieces, but it basically went together OK. Here are some shots of the front and rear suspensions:


Update 2 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr


Update 2 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

With most of the chassis together, I turned my focus to prepping the body for paint. There are remarkably few mold lines on the body, and those that were there sanded away quickly and easily. I followed the mold line removal with a light sanding with dry 600 grit wet/dry all over. During this I also test fit the cab, fender assembly and hood, just to see if there were major problems. The biggest issue is rather large gaps where the hood meets a portion of the fender near the very front. I'm not sure what I'll do for this since it will be hard to fill that gap and leave the hood unattached. I'll probably leave it as is, but I'm still looking for options. The other issue was with ejector marks which there seem to be a lot of in places that I think will be visible. Many I've been able to sand away, like four that were in the underside of the hood; but others were kind of deep and needed filling as you'll see.

Here are the chassis, fenders, body, and hood mostly ready for paint:


Update 2 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

At this point I proceeded to see how many more things I could prepare for paint in order to maximize my time in the spray booth. Well, there are lots! Many things need to be painted separately since it seems they would be hard to paint when assembled or due to some of the detailed painting I'd like to do. This was a lot of "sprue work", filing, sanding and filling ejector marks and other gaps. Speaking of which, in the engine compartment there are two pieces that finish the inside front of the fenders that just don't fit too well. So after gluing in place, filled the gaps with Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty:


Update 2 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

At this point I'm still waiting for the Bondo to cure completely before cleaning this area up.

And here are some of the ejector marks I've filled, some completed, some still in progress. I hope they don't show through the paint!


Update 2 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

Finally, here are all the bits and pieces nearly ready for paint; looks like it will be a painting marathon! The results of that should be the subject of the next update!


Update 2 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

As always, thanks for taking a look!

[BobM]

Update #3:

Made some progress over the past week; and also suffered my first major setback! More on that later, let's start with the progress.

I submitted the following photo to the thread for the Friday March 24th Live Show:


Friday Update by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

Thanks to Kingdan and the rest of the live show crew for taking a minute or two to comment on what they saw/read. There were two things that came up in their discussion: 1-the simulated wood bed deck which they all seemed to really like (more on that later) and 2-my choice to eventually use Pledge Floor Finish for the final gloss coat... OK, OK, I get it! Well, maybe not completely, but I'll take the crews advice and switch my plans to Aqua Gloss when I get to that point. Does anyone think that Pledge (aka Future) still has any use? Pre-decal gloss coat maybe?

Anyway, the point of that photo was to show that everything has been primed, I've started some final colors, was making good progress on the wood parts, and had started detailing the engine.

Here is everything primed:


Update 3 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

Because I've just been using "scraps" from around the house to detail the engine, it was a longer and more difficult task than it probably should have been. It's not perfect, but as I've heard others say, what model is ever perfect! I'm happy enough with it, and that's all that really matters, right?! It was a good learning experience and I at least have that to take away from it. After several bench sessions and more than I care to count frustrating hours, here is what I came up with:


Update 3 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr


Update 3 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr


Update 3 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

The details I added were the ignition wiring and the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor, both made from the wire from twist ties.

I felt that these were a little too boring I guess, so I thought I'd try Tamiya Panel Line Accent to bring out detail. This was my first experience with it so I tried a small area on the valve cover... For me, it was just too much and I felt it would be too difficult to tone down on the rest of the engine. But now the valve cover was "dirty", so I needed to do something to get the rest of the engine to match. I ended up wetting the rest of the engine with mineral spirits, adding panel line accent as more of a wash, and removing it right away. This was fairly easy and just left the engine looking like it is maintained, but not freshly painted. It's a little bit dirtier than I was going for, I may try to go back and clean it up more before final assembly, but it is OK. Here is it's current state:


Update 3 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

Now on to the wooden bed deck which the live crew gave me lots of good comments on. I decided that rather than using the "wood" decals included with the kit, I'd attempt to use oil paints to simulate wood like I've read about in several places. I started it by mixing up a sort of light wood color from the limited Tamiya paints I have on hand and sprayed this as a base color on the wood parts: the bed deck, side rails and I'm going to try to make the steering wheel look wooden as well:


Update 3 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

Next I laid down a good heavy coat of Burnt Umber:


Update 3 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

To this I mixed in some spots of Burnt Sienna and Yellow Ochre, blended, streaked, blended, streaked... with a sponge and brushes until I was happy with it. I should be noted that these parts already have a molded in woodgrain which I think helped make this go pretty quickly and look really good:


Update 3 by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

I may have played with it a little more after that photo, but it was at this point that I took the first photo in this post for the Friday Live Show.

Then, it was during my next bench session where disaster struck. What I'm about to write now is painful, embarrassing and a great lesson for me and maybe others. As I mentioned in the Live Show thread, it was taking forever for the oils to dry. Well, I had read of ways to speed the process and these were confirmed by the live crew. Now, I'm not blaming anyone (except myself) for what happened next... While working on detailing the engine, I decided I would try one of the suggested drying methods - placing the oils near a lamp to warm it and dry it out. I have an extra lamp at my bench that I don't use much, so I turned it on while I worked on the engine. Well, I guess I got caught up in the engine and... you guessed it, had the deck too close to the lamp! At some point I looked up to see a twisted, melted wreck that used to be the bed deck, Ugh...

After talking myself "off the ledge", I remembered reading that some manufacturers make spare parts available. So I jumped on the Revell site and found that they do. Now, I think this is meant for replacing parts that arrived damaged or missing, but I thought I'd give it a try. I submitted a request for the part in which I was perfectly honest stating that it was damaged during the build and that I was willing to pay for the part and/or shipping... I'm currently waiting to see what comes of my request. That's Plan A. Plan B is to attempt to scratch build a new deck. I've not looked into what that would take, but it might be a "fun" challenge. Plan C is to go out and by another kit, my LHS had several in stock when I picked this up and I've seen it readily available online... So ultimately, I guess I get more practice with woodgrain!

That's where things stand at this point. I'm headed out of town for a few days and when I return I'll be starting an Egg Plane for that SIG and shortly after that is the Warring Weather GB where I will be entering an Airfix Hurricane. Therefor, it is unlikely that I'll get much work in on this for some time. But if I hear from Revell I'll at least post an update on that...

If you've made it this far, thanks for reading!

[exmoor]

This is looking good love the engine detail how do these kits fit togetheir they have some good subjects .i have only done tamiya bike kits and an odd revell f1 so skill level low

[BobM]

Thanks Paul. This is only my third kit, so I don't have a lot to compare against. So far it seems OK, no real problems, but only minor assembly to this point. We'll see how it goes when I get to the body...

[BobM]

Quick update...

Yesterday I received the replacement bed from Revell! Woo Hoo!!

A big thank you goes out to Revell, this is not something they needed to do.

Anyway, now that I have a clear path forward, I can show the mess I made, along with the new part!


Replacement Arrived! by Bob Mortensen, on Flickr

So I'm back at it. I'll wait until I have some painting on my upcoming builds and do this at the same time. This time, I'll be more patient and/or careful while waiting for the oils to dry!

Later...

[BobM]

Alright... Having finished a couple of SIG and GB builds, I'm back to my truck build.

As a refresher, I left off having received a replacement for the truck bed that I ruined attempting to get the oils I used for the wood effect to dry. So that's where I picked up. I followed the same procedure as before, except this time I set it aside to dry while I worked on other builds. After several weeks it had dried thoroughly so I added a "shellac" coat made from a mix of Tamiya Clear Yellow and Clear Red. This was again left to dry, this time for many weeks until the SIG and GB's finished. I didn't photograph any of the above, or if I did I lost them. But yesterday I got a start on the final colors; Gloss Black for the fenders/lower chassis and Gloss Green for the body.

I started by taping off the wood portions of the bed, leaving the metal strips to be painted the body color:


Being my first gloss finish, I wasn't entirely confident in my airbrushing technique. I had already painted the Gloss Black fenders and wasn't really happy with the result; they really weren't that glossy! Before moving on to the body, I wanted to if I could remedy this. I started by lightly sanding with 600 grit wet/dry paper and water. This might have been too coarse, but it was all that was handy. I got down to primer in a few places, but overall it seemed better.

This had originally been painted with Tamiya X-1 thinned 1 to 1 with Tamiya X-20A. I often read that using a lacquer thinner produces a glossier finish, especially if followed with a misting of straight lacquer thinner. I recently purchased Tamiya Lacquer Thinner, so I went for it...

Wow! What a difference! It sprayed like a dream and ended with a much better gloss finish! So, that's the process I followed for the rest of the body. Well, I skipped the wet sanding on truck bed. I think experience this has convinced me to give Mr. Paint lacquer based acrylics and Mr. Color Leveling Thinner a try. I already have paints for my next few builds, so it may be a while.

Here is the bed while I removed the tape:


And with the tape removed, next will be a coat of AquaGloss:


Finally here is the rest of the body and fender parts. The gloss is not bad for a first attempt. The final AquaGloss coat should really improve it!


I'll let this cure for a while, then I'll be AquaGloss'ing all the parts before starting final assembly.

Thanks for looking in!

[exmoor]

It's looking great bob love the detail on the engine

[Twokidsnosleep]

This is phenomenal work
All of the build is spot on, but I especially like the engine work...very nice

You asked a question about the relevance of Pledge Floor Care/Future and it seems a few factors are floating around here IMHO
Sorry for for a long post into your thread
1. North American Future is still clear in the bottle and works on scale models
2.In Europe their Pledge stuff is wonky as ingredients have been removed/altered so it does not perform well and is cloudy in the bottle
3.' F Models' uses and likes Future, so many on Team ISM seem to dislike it for that
4. There are other, harder clears that are better for car bodies so can be polished...but are toxic, more complicated and stinky

So, Future has its uses:
Pre decal spot glossing...absolutely nice and thin layer for decal or spot weathering with a brush rather than spraying the whole darn aircraft
On a body that I won't be polishing ...you bet! my Sea King and 747 are both Future cleared
Clear gloss before weathering, sealing decals
Dipping airplane canopies to make them gleam!!!...huge application to clear plastic parts, takes away scratches

Future advantages:
Cheaper than dirt
Self levelling, easily applied can be applied very thin so not fill surface details
Bottle lasts forever
Can be brush painted or sprayed...I apply with a big soft bristle brush section by section for control
Non toxic and smells good
You don't have to clog your airbrush with f'ing hard to clean, invisible, super hard acrylic from hell.....uh ya did that a few times

Future weaknesses:
Different formulations and names in different global locations
Irritating name and bottle labelling changes on a weekly basis
I find it too 'soft' to adequately protect a body for polishing or rubbing out
Strong weathering products can potentially eat through it...especially lacquer based ones

There are other clears for other applications...and they have their strengths and weaknesses as well.
For example, the venerable hero Alclad has been getting f'd with by its manufacturer in its formulations so can be unpredictable. Two part acrylic clears are awesome, but kill you slowly but surely with their toxicity
F Models did a great review video of Future or Pledge floor care..easily found on uTube
All IMHO, your mileage may vary

[BobM]

Thanks for the comments Paul and Scott!

And extra thanks to Scott! That was a great summary, answered many questions and put a few things into perspective! Glad to hear that Pledge/Klear/Future/... is still considered useful by some! When I got back into the hobby about a year ago, that was one of my first purchases based on many things I had seen/read on the internet, so it must have been true! I guess that steep initial investment won't go wasted. (Oh, wait, I'm considering switching to MRP paints at $7.00 per 30 ml... )

[Twokidsnosleep]

Thanks for the comments Paul and Scott!

And extra thanks to Scott! That was a great summary, answered many questions and put a few things into perspective! Glad to hear that Pledge/Klear/Future/... is still considered useful by some! When I got back into the hobby about a year ago, that was one of my first purchases based on many things I had seen/read on the internet, so it must have been true! I guess that steep initial investment won't go wasted. (Oh, wait, I'm considering switching to MRP paints at $7.00 per 30 ml... )

Yes, I hear you Bob. If there is a less exepensive alternative, I am all over it.
happy to blab away

[Modelfreek]

Hey @BobM, nice work by the way. That is going to be a nice truck when finished, looking forward to the end result.
Agree with everything @Towkidsnosleep said. Unfortunately I live at the "bottom" end of the world and so don't have
Access to future floor polish and what passes as such is (excuse my French) crap. I have gotten good results from Tamiya
TS-13 clear but..... the only issue is this: top colour, wet colour sand 2nd coat, wet colour sand, 3rd coat and wet sand
Again then 3 coats of ts-13, wet sanding between each coat. This will avoid orange peel surface and should give nice
Depth to the final colour. Labour intensive.... yes. The other method I use now days is alclad aqua gloss clear. Absolutely
Beautiful results with half the fafing about but be very careful to use light even low pressure coats to avoid sagging as it
Sprays on milky but dries to a brilliant clear. The other draw back is it's not friendly by any stretch as it is toxic so you
Need to be very careful with protecting yourself, family and pets. Oh and also I have started using mr colour solvent based
Gloss paints as these give a great result as well but again smelly and care is needed.

Cheers and good luck!

[BobM]

Update 5:

A little more progress over the past week. I'll start with the photo I submitted for the Friday August 11th Live Show and then discuss how I got there.



After the last update I applied several coats of AquaGloss to all the "visible" surfaces; everything visible only under the truck got coats of XF-86 Flat Clear. The AquaGloss came out "acceptable", especially for a virgin like me. Sorry Modelfreek, I don't have the patience for multiple coats with wet sanding in between, so as you suggested the AquaGloss worked out just right for me.

Once well cured (overnight) it was time to "drop in" the engine and drive shaft. No drama here. There wasn't any obvious mounting points, so I just got it lined up and centered well and attached with CA.



Then spare tire was mounted under the rear of the frame. This was tricky as the fit of the tire was pretty tight under the bracket that holds it. I needed to pinch the rearmost part of the bracket while the CA dried. This lifted the frontmost part of the tire so that the tire sat parallel to the bracket. I then CA'ed the tire to the bracket. In the "up-side-down" orientation this seemed odd, but once set upright it turns out to be correct since then tire is resting on the bracket.



Next it was time to mount the radiator which is connected to the engine with two small hoses. Rather than trying to cleanup the mold lines on those tiny parts and paint them, I decided to try to scratch build something better. I had some soft wire in my toolbox, not sure where it came from (it may have been a paper clip at some point) and found the smallest shrink wrap tubing I had. I bent the wire to an approximate shape to replicate the plastic parts.



I then slipped on the tubing, shrunk it, cleaned it up and wrapped the ends with thin strips of bare metal foil to simulate hose clamps. Here are the original plastic parts side-by-side with my replacements.



The radiator and my custom hoses were then CA'ed in place. They fit great and I'm really happy with how they, along with the entire engine, turned out.



During this time I was also assembling and detailing the "cockpit". The instrument panel is a decal which was applied as usual with MicroSet and MicroSol with no issues. Then rather than cover it with the supplied clunky, thick clear "lens", I applied several thick coats of Pledge Floor Care (aka North American Future). Again, looking great!



Finally I needed to paint a few areas that I had skipped but now look like they will be seen once finally assembled; and a few pieces that I had forgotten. This included painting the frames of the windshield and rear window. I decided to paint these XF-85 Rubber Black to simulate the mounting rubber. While I was at it I also did the same around the window frames on the cab. The side windows don't get "glass" which is kind of nice since the interior should be more visible.



That's all for now. Until next time...

[Modelfreek]

Very nice work BobM. That Aqua gloss looks great on the body and the XF-85 is my go to paint for simulated rubber as well.
Enjoying this build a lot.

[Twokidsnosleep]

Yep great stuff
I think your gloss on the body came out great and then the future in the instruments is perfect
LOVE your radiator hose scratch...stealing that idea
Superb work

[BobM]

Very nice work BobM. That Aqua gloss looks great on the body and the XF-85 is my go to paint for simulated rubber as well.
Enjoying this build a lot.

Thanks! I'm enjoying it too.

BTW, just saw your Ferrari build, amazing! I need to go back and take a closer look.

Yep great stuff
I think your gloss on the body came out great and then the future in the instruments is perfect
LOVE your radiator hose scratch...stealing that idea
Superb work

Thanks Scott!

[BobM]

Final Update!

After the last update there wasn't much to do except final assembly and some touch ups. One thing I did want to do was give the grill some contrast, but being chrome, this was tricky! I started with some black Tamiya Panel Line Accent in the recesses. OK everybody stop laughing and get off the floor! It kind of worked, but I really wanted the recesses as dark as possible and this only dulled things and left the very corners a bit darker. Next I tried a Fine Point Sharpie. This worked a bit better, but there were a few small places I couldn't get into. So I found a Pilot Razor Point marker. This got me into the places I was concerned about and after several "coats" it ain't bad. OK, it's a little rough, but from "afar" it looks fine and gives the contrast I was looking for.



If anyone has suggestions on a better way to do this, please drop me a comment.

Final assembly was done mainly using CA glue. As I started, things progressed quickly and I got too excited to remember to take pictures! There was a little drama. The bed was difficult to get in the right spot and one corner kept popping up.The front and rear bumpers were a little tricky to get right. I guess the biggest complaint I have about this kit is that many parts/sub-assemblies have no positive location marks for lining things up; so there is a bit of guess work involved.

Other than that the only other issues during the final assembly were my fat fingers, getting too little glue in the right places and too much glue in the wrong places, fingerprints and scratches. Most of the fingerprints I was able to clean off, even some of the scratches; but most were small and I'll just live with them.

I'm really happy with the final result. It was a fun kit to build and something different than I had been building. I got to try some new techniques, products and even a little bit of scratch building. Anyway, here are the final photos, hope you enjoy!

[Modelfreek]

Just gorgeous mate!

Turned out a treat and you know what, use what works as that
Grill looks amazing too well done.

[CKNavy]

Really nice work. I can only hope my current build comes out that nice.