Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

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SteveAFV
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Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by SteveAFV »

I bought some reverse (self closing) angled tweezers to use in a helping hand as an attempt to get around some physical limitations. The tips are serrated which made my think, is that going to damage styrene, delicate parts, painted surfaces.

Any advice for tweezers? I know one can never have too many tools right? :roll: but I don't want to buy some smooth reverse tweezers when they won't hold enough anyway. I have regular closing smooth jawed ones where I can control the pressure better and hold firmer should I need to. The point of the reverse ones is I can use my one hand to paint, glue etc so I need them quite firm but not damaging.

I will try on a piece of sprue but just wondered what advice there might be from more experienced modellers.

Thanks,

Steve
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Re: Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by MarkVerploeg »

As far as the chance of damsge i would do a little test
Just paint up a spare part and let it dry
And put it in the tweezers to see if you get damage to the paint work
If so it could be that a simple piece of masking tape over the tips can stop it
Tape is softer then metal so less chance it can damage your parts and paint work
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Re: Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by SteveAFV »

MarkVerploeg wrote:As far as the chance of damsge i would do a little test
Just paint up a spare part and let it dry
And put it in the tweezers to see if you get damage to the paint work
If so it could be that a simple piece of masking tape over the tips can stop it
Tape is softer then metal so less chance it can damage your parts and paint work
Thanks, brilliant idea with the masking tape!
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Tamiya 1/35 pz kpfw IV ausf D BUDDY BUILD with mincemeat http://intscalemodeller.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=19653
I Heart Tamiya Stug III B
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Re: Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by OliveDrab »

Coating the tip of the tweezers in Plasti Dip might do the trick.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Plasti-Dip-1 ... /202196703
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Re: Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by HamilkarBarkas »

Speaking from a technical stand point serrated tweezers are only useful for personal hygiene, but not for anything related to craft.
I am a watchmaker and all we use are non-serrated tweezers. It makes it possible to grab any kind of part, small, big, it does not matter.
What gives you a save grip is a totally parallel edge on your tweezers, not any kind of serration.
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Re: Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by digger303 »

HamilkarBarkas wrote:Speaking from a technical stand point serrated tweezers are only useful for personal hygiene, but not for anything related to craft.
I am a watchmaker and all we use are non-serrated tweezers. It makes it possible to grab any kind of part, small, big, it does not matter.
What gives you a save grip is a totally parallel edge on your tweezers, not any kind of serration.
After searching for yet another piece I was thinking along similiar lines.
Swear I spent more time on the floor than at the work bench on this kit.
Do you think any of these would be any good

http://www.sipel.ch/73-soft-tip-tweezers
http://www.hobbytools.com.au/rubber-tipped-tweezer/
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TWEEZERS-RUB ... 0967025325

Cheers
Ian

Ps.
If you pick up different size objects how can the tweezers jaws remain parallel or do you use many different size tweezers
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Re: Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by HamilkarBarkas »

In my opinion #1 is a bit over the top, #2 and #3 are rubbish for model building. I would not want to work with those, others may like them however.

To clearify what i mean i highlighted the important areas on a tweezer red for you guys.

Image
The red lines have to be parallel to the one above and sharp. Thats what gives you a save grip. No tiny part will get catapulted away when you hold it with a tweezer that meets these features. The tip is important too, but only when it comes to placing very tiny parts. Most of the work is done with the edges.
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Re: Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by schweinhund227 »

HamilkarBarkas wrote:In my opinion #1 is a bit over the top, #2 and #3 are rubbish for model building. I would not want to work with those, others may like them however.

To clearify what i mean i highlighted the important areas on a tweezer red for you guys.

Image
The red lines have to be parallel to the one above and sharp. Thats what gives you a save grip. No tiny part will get catapulted away when you hold it with a tweezer that meets these features. The tip is important too, but only when it comes to placing very tiny parts. Most of the work is done with the edges.

Thanks for pointing that out !
I guess Now I know why I am flinging parts all over my bench...

Time to search for better Tweezers ... :clap:
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Re: Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by HamilkarBarkas »

schweinhund227 wrote:Thanks for pointing that out !
I guess Now I know why I am flinging parts all over my bench...

Time to search for better Tweezers ... :clap:
You are welcome.
The tweezer in the picture is what i am using at work and i bought a few privately. They are amazing, especially when you are used to them from work AND hobby.
Due to the lacking serration you can simply (that sounds easier as it is actually) resharpen them if they become a bit worn out after a year or two. For that you use a medium or fine shanding paper placed on a solid base (like a glass plate or stone plate) that is perfectly even. Then you grind one side, then the other until you have a sharp edge again, or a better tip or whatever you wanted to fix. That way tweezers will last a lifetime.
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Re: Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by digger303 »

HamilkarBarkas wrote:In my opinion #1 is a bit over the top, #2 and #3 are rubbish for model building. I would not want to work with those, others may like them however.

To clearify what i mean i highlighted the important areas on a tweezer red for you guys.

Image
The red lines have to be parallel to the one above and sharp. Thats what gives you a save grip. No tiny part will get catapulted away when you hold it with a tweezer that meets these features. The tip is important too, but only when it comes to placing very tiny parts. Most of the work is done with the edges.

Thanks you much, much appreciated.
two questions if I might impose some more.
If you pick up different size objects how can the tweezers jaws remain parallel or do you use many different size tweezers.
And any brand recommendations.... emex is what pictured ?

Thanks again.
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Re: Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by digger303 »

I had a scout through the net and found this Australian watchmakers how to exercise with advice on tools as well.
http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/

10. Tweezers - buy two

IMPORTANT NOTE: good tweezers are essential. They come in a variety of shapes, sizes, material, makers etc. Do not experiment here, go for the one I've ordered. Size: #3, NON MAGNETIC, fine tip, straight. Buy two identical tweezers! You will use one for general work and the other for fine work. While most suppliers would recommend to go for two different size of the tip instead, this would be a mistake. A finer tip than #3 is not recommended for a novice either.
If can not get them, Alternatively go for size #2 non-magnetic, INOX. Straight shape. Pay more and buy Dumont.

Now, if you do wish to spend more on good quality tweezers, then look for DUMONT brand, Inox #3. For about $25 a piece, this is a really fine and long lasting tool. You cannot have too many of them - I have probably 30 in my workshop and that is definitely not too many :-)

A good watchmaker would NEVER allow anyone to touch his tweezers! This is a very intimate tool which defines the quality of your workmanship. Keep them away from magnets, and never drop them because that would result in permanent damage.
Alternatively go for size #2 non-magnetic, INOX. Straight shape. Pay more and buy Dumont.
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Re: Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by HamilkarBarkas »

digger303 wrote:Thanks you much, much appreciated.
two questions if I might impose some more.
If you pick up different size objects how can the tweezers jaws remain parallel or do you use many different size tweezers.
And any brand recommendations.... emex is what pictured ?

Thanks again.
I´d use diferent tweezers, but i found that one or two types to the job because anything that is large enough gets handled with my fingers usually :) When that becomes too hard i use a tweezer.
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Re: Serrated vs unserrated reverse tweezers

Post by HamilkarBarkas »

digger303 wrote:I had a scout through the net and found this Australian watchmakers how to exercise with advice on tools as well.
http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/

10. Tweezers - buy two

IMPORTANT NOTE: good tweezers are essential. They come in a variety of shapes, sizes, material, makers etc. Do not experiment here, go for the one I've ordered. Size: #3, NON MAGNETIC, fine tip, straight. Buy two identical tweezers! You will use one for general work and the other for fine work. While most suppliers would recommend to go for two different size of the tip instead, this would be a mistake. A finer tip than #3 is not recommended for a novice either.
If can not get them, Alternatively go for size #2 non-magnetic, INOX. Straight shape. Pay more and buy Dumont.

Now, if you do wish to spend more on good quality tweezers, then look for DUMONT brand, Inox #3. For about $25 a piece, this is a really fine and long lasting tool. You cannot have too many of them - I have probably 30 in my workshop and that is definitely not too many :-)

A good watchmaker would NEVER allow anyone to touch his tweezers! This is a very intimate tool which defines the quality of your workmanship. Keep them away from magnets, and never drop them because that would result in permanent damage.
Alternatively go for size #2 non-magnetic, INOX. Straight shape. Pay more and buy Dumont.
I can second these thoughts.
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